The Journey

From Sydney via Dubai to New Delhi...our trip had begun - November 2010. We caught a train to Ludhiana so we could have a few days warm up before heading north into the foothills of the Himalaya. A Hindu wedding experience in Ludhiana, followed by a warm invitation to stay with a family in Chandigarh and then being welcomed with open arms into a tranquil resort in Kasauli set us off to a great start. (all within the first few weeks). The peddling was fantastic - through the scenery of Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand before entering into Nepal via the western Terai and up to Pokhara. By the end of our peddling we were on the eastern end of the Himalaya in North Eastern India - cycling through Assam to Guwahati.

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From Siliguri we cycled north to Darjeeling and up into Sikkim. The scenery and forest was amazing and as we had previously experienced, on the other side of India and in Nepal, the people were very friendly. Once again the culture had quite a few variations to other states within India we had already visited. I think we covered some of the steepest climbs within Sikkim on our entire peddling journey. Refer to April/May 2011 within the blog for more about Sikkim and Assam.


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The monsoon season was fast approaching and we had basically run out of time. After a wonderful 3 week jeep tour into Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh we packed up our bicycles and caught the train from Guwahati, west to Siliguri and south to Kolkata before flying home.


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Street stream (Friday 17 June 2011)

Great night, so tired and the sound of rain muting other noises. Breakfast in at Bodhi Tree which is quite good. Heavy rain achieving the odd drip through the Garden cafes tiled roof. The ambience is great and quite relaxed. Meet up with an English couple about to head up to Darjeeling. They mention that following extended travel through Russia and Asia they had their laptop stolen in Perth when their friends apartment was broken into. Read in the Hindustan Times that 48hrs of rain is expected thanks to a depression that has developed over the Bay of Bengal.

Out into the weather where not only is the rain heavy but the wind through the streets is also quite strong. Start the walk to the junction with the main road but encounter a stream of water through which the odd passing car is causing waves. Backtrack and try another street but similarly covered in knee deep water. Not against water but it is the range of potential floaties that brings second thoughts. Decide that already wet from the water wind so might as well continue on, wading through the water and making the junction. Passing teenage boys as excited as children at Christmas with the weather change from the heat leading up to the start of the monsoon.

Start down the next major road with intentions of getting a feel for the suburb but the wind combined with the continuing heavy downpour is making the attempt unpleasant. Love adventure when I seek it, but this is no fun. Decide to take a break and have lunch at the Khan Sudha, recommended by the English guys this morning. Great food, especially the Veg Hydrabadi, Paneer Butter Masala and naan. Unfortunately power out so no air-conditioning and no windows. Dripping from sweat instead of rain by the time we left.

Retreat back to the hotel where we ate cookies whilst watching movies on cable. Not perfect choice when touring but given the continuing downpour one that we are both happy to have made.

Note: turns out from the Hindustan times 18 June 154.1ml fell till Friday evening. Flights were rerouted, some rail services were blocked due to debris. Also landslip in Kurseong killed 4 people.

Portage (Thursday 16 June 2011)

Off to the train station, not without a little intrepidation regarding checked in luggage. Once again early but not the three hours requested by Guwahati. At the station porter assistance with the Bob bag to the Cloak room. 50rup. Told not to checkin the bike bags as they are under weight and instead carry them on to the train ourselves, placing them in either the Brake van or the carriage in which we have our allocated seats. Uncertain of whether impacted upon by our last dealing or just not interested. We decide to carry the bikes onto the carriage rather than placing them into the Brake van as not certain whether secured or not.

The staff are also uncertain which platform the Kanchenjunga Express is going to pull into, and identify that they will not know until 10 mins from arrival. Fine, unless lugging bike bags up and over pedestrian bridges. So we checked what Platform it normally pulled into. Platform 2. Great, grab another porter and relocate again. 50rup. Take up position, have an hour and a half to wait but absolutely dripping with sweat so wander a little away from the bags to the nearest platform fans. Normally identifiable by a pool of people sitting below.

People wandering on and off the train currently at the platform so uncertain just when it is going to move off. Notice that a lot of people are taking up position on the pedestrian bridge rather than committing to a platform. A couple of platform wanderers as we wait. Ranging from little kids, a few dressed a few not, to older people. As the minutes tick away still waiting until almost arrival time when the shriek of the train horn finally signals it is leaving. Unfortunately the train and it's occupants had left a few presents on the tracks just across from us. Cleaners were slowly working along the tracks sweeping up the bottles, cups, chip packets and other leftovers from both the passing trains and people on the platforms. Avoiding certain contributions though.

Train late but eventually we hear the call over, first in Hindi and than English. Platform 1. Bugger. We signal our trusty reliable porter currently across the way on Platform 1 who climbs down onto the tracks and crosses to us. Good money obviously. 50rup.

Onto the train and struggle along the tight corridor to the curtained cubicle, our residence for the next 12hrs. Thankfully only two other occupants and both middle bunks folded down. Bikes fit onto the top bunk side by side and secured by the bunks hang chain. Bob in bag under the bottom seat on the floor. Double paned window unfortunately foggy from condensation created between the panes. Settle in with books as no view.

The entertainment then begins with a constant flow of hawkers who must ride the trains back and forth between stations. Pan, masala rice mix, mangoes, water, chips, shoe/bag repair, masseurs, books and coffee / tea. Slightly stranger, beggars - blind or disfigured, transvestites and kids who sweep the floors all drop by chasing donations. It's one thing on the streets where wandering by, but in a carriage no where to go. Run out of coins by about our fifth visitor.

Strike up conversation with the other guy and after a while draw a few more walk bys. Time passes faster especially after lunch which in 3A you pay for. Finally Kolkata but rain is making even the foggiest view from the window even more unclear. The guys give us a hand getting our gear out onto the platform. On the platform for one minute before we attract out first beggar. Thankfully also attract a porter and negotiate a slightly higher rate to get across to the Prepaid taxi stand, which when we make it is closed, at 9.20pm.

Only visible taxi alternative yellow ambassador taxis beaming the 50s - 60s versus 2011. Just starting to rain again so negotiations definitely one sided as try to confirm to an older street lady that we will not contribute. One bike bag on the back seat and the other in the boot with the Bob bag. Sit in the front which gives me a couple of millimeters of head room in the otherwise roomy car. Soph squeezed in the back with the bike bag. Check the age with the driver, but he identifies that there is forced replacement after ten years of use. Still it feels like the original model as we bounce through the traffic, after having been run into by a white police jeep, slightly concerned with the limited visibility a combination of the pouring rain, small disjointed windscreen wipers and low headlights.

Driver finds our pre arranged accommodation at Bodhi Tree in South Kolkata after a couple of street side enquiries. Nice place, part guest house and part art gallery. Settle in and comatose within half an hour of lying on the bed.

Note: On the news an IED was apparently found by police on I think the Friday Guwahati bound Kanchenjunga express. Looked like explosives and shrapnel packed into a stainless steel milk container.

Bit of packing (Wednesday 15 June 2011)

Packing day. Quick trip to the Hong Kong market to buy some fruit and search for some packing materials. Buy some green mangos but actually very ripe and sweet. Also some lychees, beautifully fresh still on the branches on which they grew.

We also found sheets of foam though looking for rolls of aerated foam.
Grab tea at our favorite tea stall on the road.



Before heading back to the hotel to clean the bikes and dismantle the bikes and bob into their bags. Big night finished late, but all ready to go bright and early tomorrow.

Twisted (Tuesday 14 June 2011)

Up before the sun to get to the station and checkin the bikes. Wake the hotel reception duty who is sleeping on the foyer couch. Quite nice given the time and interruption. Short walk along Station Rd with the bikes to the large complex. Quite a few people already floating around both outside and inside but the majority of people inside are asleep on the floor. Some with tickets, some homeless. At the cloak roam check the bikes in and attach their cardboard name plates as required. No hessian as was required for our trip from Potankot to Haridwar. No complaint. Additional 124rup to check the bikes through.

Set up near the bikes to keep an eye on them, whilst adjusting the Bob and bag ready for travel. Sweating profusely as attempt to remove the bike pedals to reduce the temptation to go for a platform spin by the Luggage staff. No issue really, either this time in the morning or this station, not sure. Train arrives on time at 5.05am, though departure time is 5.55am. Quite nice as it should reduce the panic boarding by both passengers and passenger's porters carting loads of luggage. It is amazing how much people take on and stuff into any space available, and that is in the AC carriages. The only Sleeper carriage we have been in was from Potankot to Amritsar and short enough to be novel rather then claustrophobic.

Train is in good condition and not long having moved off we are provided with first newspaper, then water and light refreshments. The berth is 2AC which though obviously Air con also refers to 2 per berth side and four per curtained section, seats basically bunk beds. Sitting opposite us a family on their way to Delhi, who will be on the train for about 28hrs. Armed police patrol past the corridor and even a sniffer dog. Watch the countryside pass after the train has crossed back across the bridge to the northern side of the Brahmaputra. Great to be on the move again, heading back to pick up our gear from Siliguri.

Arrive NJP feeling pretty good. Great weather given the season and running pretty much to schedule. Train arrives on one of the furtherest platforms so we lug the panniers, bob bag and backpacks across the walk over out to the entrance before going in search of the bikes. Locate the cloak room, in the middle station building and display the pickup slip before being taken to a secured depot. Both bikes so start breathing a little easier. Start to roll my bike out and realise pretty quickly that the back wheel is locked up. On closer inspection the back rim has an ugly looking rim buckle.

Back to the Cloak room and point out that the bike has been damaged and one of the three guys behind the counter identifies that it wasn't packed up properly. Upon clarifying that it was not pointed out that they needed to be packed up and that the bikes were transported fine before, he just shrugged. So requested a damaged in transport statement. Apparently available from another department. Frustrated head off towards the department that he has indicated and find instead the station complaints room. Discuss the issue with a younger guy with better english and he clarifies that the guys in the Cloak room are the ones responsible and that there is a specific certificate that should be provided.

Back to the cloak room and state where I have been and what I need and a slightly more polished staff member comes over and asks what the problem is. When I identify what he has already overheard he comes out to inspect the bike. He elaborates that it is not his fault nor mine but the under skilled luggage staff that do not know any better. Further that the certificate will not help resolve the issue for either him or me and that he will pay out of his own pocket for the repairs at a local bike store. Without really thinking I agree to have a look at his bike store so he sets me up with one of his identified "know no better" and part carry - roll the bikes out the front of the station and then to a street side bike repair guy. When he has a look however the guy stuffs around with the gearing not even assessing the rim which very quickly annoys me, so grab the bikes and go to find Soph.

Leave the bikes with Soph after agreeing that regardless the pain in the butt and delay to obtain at least a Certificate. So back to the Complaints office and this time the guy returns with me to the Cloak room. He steps up the request but then leaves on the staff identifying that it is in process. Two hours later the guy who "paid from his own pocket", returns and slowly begins filling in the Damage certificate in triplicate from a large older ledger book.

Back to Soph just as the afternoon storms start. Find a van and head back to the Conclave lodge. Quick meal before calling it a night after a long day and frustrating day.

Belt up (Monday 13 June 2011)

Up early, good night. Hotel KRC was great excluding the recurring door buzzer work past 9pm last night. Nice that they were concerned about us and whether we had had dinner or not, but it reaches a point where some personal space is good, and you have no desire to catch up with the hotel staff again, at least until checkout. Drive across the city to the Bus station where we grab breakfast at an established road side cart that the guys frequent. Great breakfast served by a clean cut looking guy in dark blue business pants, white singlet and thongs. We are both glistening with sweat and it is not yet 8am. A couple of older ladies begging. One very persistent who even comes to the car window and taps. Unfortunately we forgot that we had mangoes, one of which we could have given.

Drive out of town past one of the three army headquarters based in Tezpur and a couple of columns of army trucks. Through larger towns and consistently good tar on NH52. Huge amount of activity going on, around Darang many many carts, cycled and pushed on the way to markets which turn out to be large commercial ones. Commercial in size but totally rural india in style.

Make the outskirts of Guwahati, and the traffic begins early. Niron does his best to skirt it, regardless of edge or oncoming traffic. Pass a large yellow stadium and follow the rail line toward the bridge across the Brahmaputra that we cycled across nearly a month ago. Niron still struggling through a hangover as he beeps and swerves through the traffic which is still as heavy as it has been for the past 100km. Drop the bags at the Lodge before heading out for lunch at Parampara above Paradise restaurant where we have Assamese Thali and Chicken cooked in Bamboo. Very very tasty.

Back to the Jungle Tours India office and say goodbye to the guys before dropping by the Train station to confirm checkin requirements for the bikes tomorrow. Groan when they amend the recommendation from two to three hours before departure making it 2.55am tomorrow morning. Ahhh.

Last coffees in Guwahati at Cafe Coffee Day before Naga pork at Delight. Back to the hotel for prep before early morning.

Two seasons in one day (Sunday 12 June 2011)

I know I was thinking of going to morning puja, but I definitely had no plan for it to come to us at 3.45am. Sleep is more tempting at this hour so go back to sleep waking at 5am and it is all still happening, 6am and we decide we might as well go down and have a look at what we are listening to. Down the Main Bazaar street of Bomdila to the Gompa where the sound is nearly deafening, speakers up on the roof of the prayer hall and a large amplifier on the foyer. It is quite non Buddhist. The paintings in the foyer of the Prayer Hall make up for the noise, fantastic figures including a horse that has wild eyes. I think some of them rate as my favorite from throughout India and Nepal.

Still great weather, a little light spitting but otherwise sunny. Cool in the mountains though and we all have fleece jumpers on. Follow a couple of Army trucks out of town before being able to pass on narrow roads. Only a few road crews out today busting rocks as Sunday and most people appear to be taking a day off or starting later. Stop in for quick chai after crossing the Nechiphu pass and catch up again with Dawa, part owner and Nepali by birth, also Buddhist so we have a look at the "Wheel of Life" Thanka I picked up in Tawang.


Following chai we continue downhill back to the river which is now moving swiftly toward the plains.

From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011

Pass the various army encampments as we move our way south, hit a few sloppy sections but more from spring fed mud versus the light rain which has now stopped. The Sumo swivels from side to side as Niron aggressively swings the wheels to try and maintain traction and forward movement. Into Balukpong and following lunch at Hotel Tashi Yangtse sign out of Arunachal at the police check post.

The plains feel suprisingly stimulating after the grandeur of the mountains. Fluffy clouds, white and grey, sit over the fields and jungle giving a feeling of calm tension. The road across the next section of road works, shaken not stirred. So glad to see the tar even if it was only a demo section before hitting the next section of sandy dirt. Scenic mud rendered houses with thatched roofs, not as heavy as those we saw on the Terai and without the red colored lower section. So much road work going on. The piles of river rocks which are tendered for to be smashed using sledge hammers into road base size. According to the guys one pile (one truck trailer load) will take three people about two solid days work for which they will receive about 3000 INR.

Enter Tezpur also called the city of blood, which sounds pretty dramatic for relatively standard looking outskirts. Niron does put on his seatbelt on the edge of town though. No seat belts in the back, guess if the worst occur we hope we go under versus over the front seats. Thankfully, though the winding and twisting along the good road did occur, we made the hotel with no issue bar the sporadic use of horn. Hotel KRC not so flash name but the foyer is finished well and the staff professional. One of the guys accompanies up to our room in the scary lift carrying our pannier bags. Once in the room loiters for ever.

After dropping the bags off we drove across towards the Brahmaputra and the reason for the heavy tag for the city. Enter the Agnigarh Hill park which is believed to be the Fortress of Fire from Hindi mythology. The story goes that a Demon king by the name of Banasura had a daughter called Usha who dreamt of her love but her father was a rock on the protective side and to safeguard her he secured her in a Fortress of Fire. The dream lover however became reality in the form of Aniruddha a prince. (and also the grandson of Lord Krishna) The two lovers secretly married which enraged Banasura and lead to a war between the Hari and the Hare (as a rule apparently exists that gods cannot battle directly). This battle turned particularly ugly, hence the "city of blood". The park has a great view but is a touch kitch.



From the hill we drove back towards town and another large park, Chitralekha Udyan, this one with archeological remnants believed to be from the Gupta period (roughly 10th century) sourced from private properties and random sites from around Tezpur. Sun setting and mangos dropping from the trees in the park we wander around. Some great sandstone carvings and huge.

Off to the market where we leave the guys and go fruit shopping before finding our way via a circuitous route back to the hotel. In the room set up our washing and overlook the annoying and recurring habit of hotel staff in this part of the world to attempt to be overly helpful, but which turns some times into interruptions of your time. Hopefully good nights sleep before final day tomorrow and returning to Guwahati.

Dirang to Tawang - visuals

From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011

The land of mountains (Saturday 11 June 2011)

Could be land of the long white cloud. Was planning on making morning puja at Tawang Gompa but sleep in. Out the front at 8am to meet the guys who are there but bad news, part of the front steering has sheered off. Fairly certain that they can get it all sorted within two hours so we decide to head up to the Anigompa that we spotted across the valley yesterday. Because of time restrictions we have decided to take a line to the high road rather then cut down through the valley and up the other side.

Road to gompa before stairs up onto the ridge. Spot a donkey trail which then whittles away into a maintenance line over a couple of water pipes. Making good ground until we start hitting a couple of pipe leaks which make the surrounding ground mush. Mush turns to serious bog the higher we get just below the Tawang water treatment plant. We are forced to jump from rock to rock then partially scale the water treatments security wall to continue to gain headway up the hill. Meanwhile an army truck has stopped up on the road above and further up another ridge an army watchtower.

Finally make the top road at a small series of biscuit tin constructed houses where ponies are wandering grazing. Running low on time so amend target to a closer gompa. Climb the final section of ridge and then enter the gompa enclosure which smells of burning pine firs. Spin the prayer wheels on the stairs up to the prayer hall, where we note signage Thukje Chueling Nunnery. Nuns are seated in the prayer room facing one another and chanting.


We are invited in and sit cross legged on the floor like everyone else, except that all the comfy flat pillows have already gone. The chanting is quite hypnotic and all over a chilled out feel. Locals predominantly in monpa traditional dress arrive outside some prostrating themselves before invited to circle around the prayer room and each presented with a kata and a small red strip of cloth.

Running low on time so we get up to go but invited to follow the locals lead around the room. As we reach in front of the main statues some water from a kettle is poured into our upturned right palms. Unfortunately neither of us was watching when this occurred to everyone else so not sure. A lady signals via raising her hand up past her mouth so we assume we are supposed to sip. The water when we do tastes of eucalyptus oil. Then another nun signaled to wipe the remaining oil/water over the top of our heads. Still not sure which or maybe both.

Out the front we meet with the locals who had earlier turned up. Some classic characters but most quite camera shy. Fantastic outfits, beads, long red wrap around dresses, a few yak hair wigs and Tibetan shoes. The shoes have a leather base and heavy fabric forms the boot up to the top of the calf, with wide colorful fabric ties that secure them.

We stay only long enough to spin the remainder of the prayer wheels before backtracking down to the road. This time we stick to the road to avoid the muddy patches, cutting back down to the hotel via the back route after passing a few small army camps.


On the road to the hotel the guys turn up. Luckily able to purchase a spare part and perform the repairs so we are back on the road. The road is not busy as we return along NH13 back to Bomdila. Thankfully the weather holds out pretty much all the way with only light rain, enough to dampen the dust but not create mud havoc or loosen landslides. As we left late we arrive in Bomdila past dark and into mist sitting heavily throughout the town.

Dropped off at the Hotel Tsepal Yangjom in Main Bazar Line. Listen to chanting from the Lower Gompa in our room, either very close or amplified. Will try and make morning puja.

Sunny day (Friday 10 June 2011)

Another sunny day. Very very lucky. Walk around to the Tawang Gompa via the higher ridge which also looks across to the far valley and an Ani Gompa (Nunnery) high on the far ridge. In the distance hear either artillery fire or road blasting unsure of which, or for that matter which frightens me more. Come out at the gate to the Gompa which is built in a fortified style like a citadel on the ridge all enclosed, white walls and yellow roofs with the large prayer hall sitting imposingly high on the ridge. Spend time wandering the complex and sitting in the prayer hall. Huge Shakyamuni Buddha (8mtrs high) sitting against the back wall, but looks comparative to the large prayer hall in which he sits. Some fantastic characters wandering through the Gompa, an old guy in Tibetan long tunic with cool facial hair, an old monk with a huge grin full of a handful of teeth an older monpa lady with a face full of life. Pose for multiple photos with Indian soldiers.




Tesio appears so we decide to move on and check out the old market in town. Mainly Chinese goods via Tibet some Buddhist prayer goods, almost a flip from Nagaland where these stores would be Christian. Grab breakfast at the Maa Maa Hotel, Paratha here is fantastic but different. More bread dough than the usual fryed flat unleavened bread. Good stuff. Off on the search for a traditional Monpa village but on the way stop by a 400 year old Gompa further down the hill where the sixth Dalai Lama was born. The monk with the key is temporarily missing so we instead inspect a tree which grew from a staff left by H.H the Dalai Lama. The three trunked tree still standing but only two trunks remaining. The third collapsed in an almost prophesied event shortly after which the 14th Dalai Lama arrived having fled Tibet the Chinese occupation.

Down the hill further winding around in a confusing range of directions before pulling over in a small village on a ridge line below which are semi flat hill fields. Soph chooses to go and catch up with the locals who at this time of day are down in the fields, whilst I go half way and sit on a rock in the sun in a large scenic patch of marijuana. The sun is gorgeous and the sea blue sky pure as a backdrop against the fluffy Napisan clouds. Soph works her charms and even helps pile weeds and potato stalks from the fields before photographing and sharing tea (also offer raksi - home made rice wine) whilst the team continue to harvest potatoes.



Back up across the road into the higher side village where we wander through the double story stone built houses. Small doors and high windows the only major light sources. Large piles of chopped wood in neat stacks and kids washing under the public tap and then warming themselves in the sun. Mani stone walls and prayer wheels sprinkled through the lanes. Invited into one house sitting on the verandah next to drying millet currently being used in a pot of boiling rice for rice wine. Inside the kitchen is dark both from the lack of light but also the soot covered walls and roof. Similar to our last tribal kitchen exposure this one has both the wood fire pit in the middle of the floor and also a new gas stove sitting on a bench. Steep stairs leading to the floor upstairs.

Following a great tea we head back to the car and up the hill to the Indo / Sino war memorial. A chorten sits in the middle of plaques recording the Indian dead and a small museum tracks both the escalation to violence and how the attack developed through to the Nov ceasefire.

Back into town and have a look at the new market before up to Chinese restaurant (more Indian than Chinese) for early dinner. Catch up with Luke. This guy has been so successful at traveling to interesting places and in India maintaining a budget. So many times of late and of course this Jeep tour we have given in and paid a little bit more as comfort after the bikes or just getting tired of shopping around. A motorbike definitely helps. Talking motorbikes he was able to pick up his silver Royal Enfield for 15,000 INR (about $330 AUD) from a foreigner in Goa desperately needing to head home. We also compare photos and he shows us his signature photo which is a self timer of himself in iconic locations doing a handstand. Classic. Not to mention the photos have come out really well. Handstand up at Sela pass in front of his motorbike and the entrance gate, one in a Rice field.

Walk back in the dark to our hotel which tests the memory a little as it is on the far side of town near the Gompa. Sumo jeep passes in the darkness, the driver calls out on the way "Hi Foreigner". Chill out for the rest of the night wondering whether the pork chopsuey will come back to haunt us.

Expectations (Wednesday 8 June 2011)

Up for breakfast, great night in our tent inside a tent. Unfortunately the breakfast that we ordered last night has been lost in communication land and it is not worth bothering to go looking for. Interesting conversation however with one of the guys at the camp regarding the Hornbill that we are yet to see. Apparently the Hornbill mate for life and the female once about to nest finds a woodpeckers hole and then widens it to a 10cm diameter. She then enters and nests loosing her feathers and becomes reliant upon the male for the food for her and their chicks. Should the male be killed during this time then the family is doomed. Once the chick has developed flight the birds move on and never reuse the same nest.
Drive North on NH13 the road undergoing serious roadwork and is more a dusty bumpy trail rather than highway. Along the way we drive by pairs of armed troops in body armor standing around in various poses of interest. Arrive in Bhalukpong and stop at the Police station to check back into Arunachal Pradesh. Further on pull over for breakfast at Hotel Maa Durga where we have Puri Bhaji which by itself is great, but it is served with a chutney made from a local white yam, whole grain mustard and garlic. Initially we thought it might have been a south indian chutney using coconut but corrected before we left. The food was great making up and more for the delay. Lots of hotels in town, including the Hotel Solu overlooking the large and healthy Kameng river.

Beyond town we hit what turns out to be a further 8 kms or so of road works. However we break the run with a quick stop at the Orchidarium not far out of town. Nice idea but most of the flowers in the nursery that we saw were currently not flowering. The research work is very interesting though having identified over 3500 variations of orchid in the state. Also at the park were a few Pitcher Plants (Nepeythes Khasiana) originally from Meghalaya further to the south. These long pitchers visualise a green condom with a lid which drops once an insect is attracted to the pitcher and is caught then dissolved in the toxic liquid at it's base.


Climb begins and winds up into the mist. Pass the Ball of Fire division of the indian army which is I believe a recovery division which hopefully isn't too much testament to the road condition. Come to a road junction before keeping left and dropping back to the river. The river has carved another valley and central pyramid shaped hill. The wind here carries a mixture of cool and warm breezes. Large Hindi temple looking along the river in either direction, the Nag Mandir. Into the small transport town that follows and stop at the police checkpoint to sign in. Process same as usual but the guys are called back in and the guys are apparently asked for a bribe as carrying foreigners. Apparently there are a few bad eggs. The police move staff every three years I believe to help address these issues but it also means new issues in different areas.

Pass vegetable plots but commercial versus subsistence as we start climbing back up. Plenty of tomatoes growing up through long bamboo trellis. The valley sides appear comparatively sparse and dry as we begin driving by army encampment after encampment. The "Maneaters", "Bombers", "Ball of Fire Rabbits", "Path Finders" and "Fikar not Fourteen" among many. Since 62 when the Chinese came as far south as Bombdila this area has been very touchy. From discussions with a few people some of the people and lands north are more Tibetan then Indian in character, but it is not as if Tibetan is the same as Chinese either.

Stop at Denga for lunch after being confronted with typical and not so typical army signs, such as "who dares wins" but "guns, guts, glory" is a bit too Rambo. After a lack luster lunch, where the guys are served actual bad eggs, head up hill. Serious up hill before Bomdila. Nechiphu pass at 5694ft. Just on the edge of town a rattling in the gear box and Niron unable to change into second. Starting to wonder whether this is it as far as the car goes, however a little research below the stick and a loose washer is found to be the cause. A little adjusting and then back on the road. Through town and across another pass before again descending, just as serious as some of the ascents. Thatch houses but rendered with mud or concrete to windproof them.

Make Dirang Dzong a Mong walled outpost high above the river. The Mong a Tibetan people who emigrated south some time in the 16-17 century. Fantastic entrance past a very old leather wrapped prayer wheel and through a stone sided gap in the defences beneath a wooden building. The space inside the wall is filled with stacked stone and wood constructed buildings predominantly houses with very little spare space but views back over the river and valleys below. Some of the stone walls are buckling quite fluidly with age as only mud was used as a binding agent.

Below the Dzong or Fort in Tibetan we cross the road and walk through more old houses in Old Dirang. These stone basement but then large slab sided walls. The slabs joined with housing joints on the corners. A building which initially I thought was a gompa but which turned out to house a large chorten inside. Great entrance carvings with a pair of carved demon heads above the door. Climb up the hillside behind town past mani walls and two exposed chortens to a buddhist monastery on the ridge side. Again stones echoing age but kept in great order freshly painted with beautiful entrance frescoes of buddhas, the wheel of life and mandalas.



I ask a young guy and girl, while the others are still coming up the hill whether we are allowed inside to sit and watch the prayer ceremony that is occurring inside. The guy says no and the girl yes. Confused decide to go with the negative until confirmed. When Tesio comes up he broadens the communication and finds out that there is a 6 day prayer pilgrimage underway. We are invited into the monks smokey residence and are offered tea as Tesio and the Monk discuss a range of topics. Apparently bad vibes of tourists following a group visit. The tea is a Tibetan styled tea which is therefore butter based and a touch salty. Not as bad as I thought it may have been and drinkable. I am nudged by Soph who exchanges covertly my empty cup for her semi full one.

The monk after some time decides that we pass the personality test and offers to take us inside the gompa. We head across and enter the gompa, pilgrims seated on one side of the room and three monks on the other side. All drinking tea. Inside the walls are simply adorned with the exception of the front wall which has large statue of Buddha and lama consorts. After some time the monk also offers to show us the library room upstairs. The stairs very steep wide wooden stairs to the next floor. Inside more statues and wrapped Buddhist texts.

From the gompa across to our accomodation at Herritage Hotel Pemaling. Nice place overlooking new Dirang. Settle in before dinner which is enjoyable.

Stuck (Tuesday 7 June 2011)

Drive off past the Catholic Mission leaving Hotel Blue Pine and Ziro. The road winds around out of the bowl valley in which Ziro sits before dropping over the other side. On our way down Niron was clearly having troubles with the horn, first not sounding and then sticking. In India this is a very concerning thing, especially in the hills. We have found from the driving perspective that the roads are quite narrow and thanks up here to the greatly varying surface conditions people drive in the middle and are loath to deviate fro their path or turn corners overly cautiously. Therefore the horn is used as the constant warning signal, though even then some people still come zooming around the corner. On the flats and less often up here the horn is also used to encourage both animals and people off the road. Sometimes this is successful.

The steering wheel plate was dismantled and various adjustments made in an attempt to resolve the issue but the sensitivity just wasn't right and so adjustments continued. As this was occurring passing traffic heard our testing and obviously took the stuck horn to be a challenge answering back in similar tones of metallic squeal. Thankfully after fifteen minutes of fine tuning it was decided that the issue was successfully addressed and so we were once again on our way.

Lots of traffic coming up as we drove down towards the big rice paddy fields on the valley flats at Yazali. Forced to stop for our first police check post since entering Arunachal. All fine as we continue on, Tesio pulling some weed through the window as we pass, which turns out to weed of a different sort. We have passed quite a bit since coming down but I had not really been paying any attention. Apparently can be enjoyed in Assamese curry and quite nice boiled with milk.

Pass another BRO drink driving sign variation, "Drive on horse power not on rum power". Come to a road junction where we take the lower road, the higher leading to Itanagar (the capital of Aruanchal Pradesh). Drive through Potin where there appears to be quite a few biscuit tin shed road side settlements of road workers. Climb back up and look down at a small dam that has pooled enough water behind it's walls that there is little evident flow below stream. Stop for chai before continuing back down still following the river past increasingly craggy countryside and large rock walls. The sun is shining and the day turning out to be quite hot with no sign of rain. Having dropped back down toward the plains the temperature is definitely increasing.

From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011

From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011

Through some really rough sections of road before it starts to improve at Kimin LPG bottling plant. Hillsides now lower foothills and increasingly vine covered. Stop again this time at Kimin Police station where we exit Arunachal back into Assam. Faster to head west on the flats then north. Mosquito sign warning regarding malaria. One of the points, no.5 reads "cooperate with the health team in the DDT spray operation" and no.6 " protect yourself from the mosquito bite by spraying DDT in your house".

Once back on the flats enter our first Tea plantations since last in Assam. Ladies with broad brimmed hats to protect against the sun. Onto the NH52 where our speed increases considerably. Slowing only to dodge the odd recalcitrant cow, goat or dog. Stop for late lunch at Prantik restaurant good food and value before continuing to Eco lodge at Potasali in the Nameri National Park. Accommodation in tents set up inside traditional thatched roof houses. Heaps of well fed mosquitos and unfortunately the tent nets had seen better days. Not totally paranoid but prefer experience over malaria, so we set up our mosquito net inside theirs but over the bed.


Wandered off in search of the Bharali river apparently 1.3km but we are given very limited directions and darkness was approaching rapidly. Made the river having passed beside some very healthy vegetable plots. Pass on the set dinner having been to the restaurant but nobody was around. Listen to the sound of geckos but otherwise silence.

Facials (Monday 6 June 2011)

Out of the hotel relatively early and back into the Tata once again. Drive through town back towards old Ziro before turning to the right towards the Apatani village of Hong. First stop and pick up our local guide Sada before crossing the rice field flats and climbing through first pines then bamboo and into a village. The Apatani people populate only this valley as the fields upon which they depend are known for their ongoing fertility having been used continuously by them for the past 400 years or so. Hence not much need to move around, unlike the Adi peoples who are forced to rotate crop location every three years or so.

From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011

From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011

In some ways though when I look first at the village I don't get a sense for this permanence. The houses are still made out of bamboo and thatch not as I had thought they may have been, the pine which surrounds them. Not only this the style of the houses are less refined then the Adi houses near Along. Interesting though.

We wander along a street and the first noticeable thing the ceremonial poles out the front of some of the houses but different from Adi. These have cross weave thatch and feathers, look more elaborate but feel more primitive. Not for slaughtering mithun at, but to recognise shamanistic rituals performed for the wellbeing of the occupants. Also striking is a huge singular totem pole mounted into the ground braced by large slabs of wood. Twenty metres or so high and with two cross beams near the top mounted by feathers and chains. One of these is erected by each clan in the village at Myoko time, which falls in March. Also a platform again clan based upon which important clan issues are discussed and decided.

A little further along we do another home invasion and have a look inside a standard house. Up onto the verandah, as although the village is located on a small hillock away from the fields, all the houses are still raised on stilts. The verandah leads into an outer room in which is located the rice mill, woven chicken cages, wet weather gear and wood. Inside similar to naga houses an open kitchen with central floor mounted fire place with hanging shelves above constructed out of bamboo. Past the kitchen along the house are the private rooms of the house.

Bump into some Apatani ladies on their way down to the fields. Tight woven baskets on their backs but most striking facial tattoos on the forehead, nose and chin nearly overpowered by nose piercing on both sides with black circular studs. The bigger the better apparently with the studs. The background of the facial touchups is apparently the Nishi living up in the hills had a pretty tough time and required quite a work force in their hunter gathering ways to sustain themselves. As a result breeding was quite important and marriages were polygamous but a little short of stock.

Conveniently the Apatani were a peaceful people quite close and the women apparently were a bit of the good looking sort. As a result the unusual facial touchups, following a few non arranged marriages. After some time however the changes became tradition and became part of the societal recognition of the girl to woman transition. Not necessarily an enjoyed one as several women were required during the process. This practice was phased out 20 to 30 years ago following a student lead move. More and more students were going away for further studies and the tribal markings were just marking them out for special treatment.

Guys on the other hand don't appear to have had any transition process. Older men did have a hair rosette just above the forehead. But it didn't look as painful as the tattoos.

Families have special family friend relationships with a couple of families in alternate villages and clans. These special friends are for support should the family ever require as a result of terrible consequences such as fire in the town. They may even be called upon for financial support in such instances. These friendships or relationships are inherited by the male line of a family. It was developed not only as a support system but also to develop closer village ties. These special friends are invited on a specific day of festivals to share in the feast.

Around a corner we come across a village shaman seated on a clans platform with a range of neatly prepared packages hanging from a bamboo rod part of the contribution to the spirits on behalf of the clan. The chanting and preparation of packages are very reminiscent of the Lepcha people of Sikkim. In some ways no surprise as in the neighborhood but not quite conveniently linked. The Lepcha believed to have emigrated west from either Assam or Myanmar in the 13th century and the Apatani south from Tibet in about the 16th century. However there faith is mutually based in the Bon religion and both are tribal so I guess no surprise that similar.

From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011

A person has apparently died very recently in one house as a mithun that has been slaughtered is being carved up on the verandah. Further on we drop down to the rice fields and past the harvest sheds which are constructed as I had imagined that the houses would be. Pine structure and neatly finished. Back to the town before taking a side road across to some other villages passing through the fields. Ladies collecting fish from the terraces having herded them towards small nets. Other people out weeding as the sowing has already been completed. Some terraces covered with a green growth like algae, but apparently a good sign as only grows in healthy water.

In the next town we walk through the bamboo gardens. Bamboo fenced and gated areas where bamboo are tendered by families and spaced to achieve maximal growth. Families and Clans hold four separate areas, their house plots, rice fields, bamboo gardens and wooded forest. All are passed via paternal inheritance, girls inheriting jewelry on marriage. No dowry system exists and though historically arranged marriages now love marriages only.

We discuss whilst walking whether exposure to any kind of pestilence or crop exposure and apparently there is very little. The only one that is a recurring danger is a worm of some kind. The finding of such requires the field to be emptied of water and left dry for a certain period of time. Unfortunately as rice fields are terraced and self irrigate from pool to pool this effects more then just one banked area. Thankfully this occurs rarely. Cows are kept locked up during this season of growth as a large fine awaits an owner whose cow was successful in making it into the rice fields. Also the bamboo flowering season and whether rats are an issue. Apparently the bamboo here does not flower and additionally the people eat rats especially at a certain time of year.

Like the naga, eating tastes are quite varied from the meat perspective with rats, frogs and dogs being quite sought after as delicacies, again mainly at specific times of the year. During one particular festival if you care for your dog you keep it locked up where you can see it. Pork is also still very popular.

We cross through the main rice fields passing ladies and girls in the process of weeding or planting maize on the raised walkway terrace banks. Another group of girls is picking a bank weed for salad greens as a single older face tattooed lady is sowing her final section of rice. She checks to see whether Soph knows the process.


After crossing the fields we take lunch at the new Ziro Valley Resort, Biirii. The food is really good, but not very local. The resort is a first around these parts a West Bengali / Arunachal joint venture. Ownership of land remaining with the Apatani. Also a cute little puppy. We try to warn him to stay off the streets as the dog eating festival is next month, but he seems a little young to appreciate the warning.

Drive back to the markets in town and inspect the produce whilst mainly looking for good woven products. Don't find the style we are looking for but lots of interesting veg, dry fish and clothes. Back to the hotel where some young boys are riding these homemade carts down the hill. Dinner in and catch up on some new season Castle.