The owner has a Hero cycle out front and we compare bikes.
We cycle along the National Highway until Ner Chowk about 9kms from Sundernagar where we turn off to the left to head up to Rewalsar. This road is identified on our map as an "other" so can vary wildly. Pass more slum encampments than we have noticed in ages. Also at Ner Chowk approached by kids for coins but chased off by the policeman confirming our direction to Rewalsar.
In the backstreets of Ner Chowk we pull over to watch a Punjabi band, one uniformed and the other like an Indian samba band. The sound is great and the excitement electric similar to a samba bands energy.
We head out through small villages lining the roads and increasing small agriculture. Road is pretty rough and we pass road crews with donkeys, pick axes and shovels. Again I am amazed at the handmade aspect. We have seen some excavation gear but so much that would happen at home via mechanized assistance is achieved here by hand. Whilst wearing long pants and long collared shirts. The road crews are some of the fastest to stop and smile as we pass. I only hope they gain as much energy from us as we do from them.
After one short pinch we are invited by an aged man and his daughter for tea, we decline gratefully as we are concerned with late start and uncertainty of the terrain ahead. We drop down to a river and a concrete bridge before climbing again. The river is clean as are the banks, we are also leaving behind the haze that sat so heavily over Sundenagar.
Whether the result of the 90km or so yesterday or the road being a back road and therefore not as gradated we feel every climb and they just keep coming. It is also much warmer than higher in the hills making us quite hot. We pass numerous temples and micro towns before finally pulling into a sweet store for tea. Plenty of hustle in a little place we are ushered into the dark confines of the store and wooden benches where three guys join us and supply pakora. They have little English and we little Hindi so unfortunately not much joint communication, however when we go to leave one of them has paid for our tea. They also explain about 2km further of climbing then 5km or so less so.
Soph starting to wear out and I am not far behind. Our cookie, Limca(soft drink) and banana stops are increasing in number as we take any opportunity to get our butts out of the saddle and or suck in some breaths. At the same time we dodge trucks, buses and other vehicles on the single lane bitumen.
We finally roll into Rewalsar trashed. Still looking for the lake. On our map it shows no water source or lake so we are increasingly skeptical. However we roll through a pass and notice a nestled large village over which sits a massive seated Buddha / Hindi figure. We roll through town with plenty of head nods and hellos and find the Buddhist temple/accomodation at the red gompa. To our suprise right in front is a lake, situated behind the main street and surrounded by Tibetan inspired aspect, whether the Gompas or a large prayer flag display or other temples. Lots of Tibetan / Nepalese looking people many carrying prayer beads some with mobile prayer wheels(my interpretation anyway). Again that sun darkened appearance with Asiatic eyes, rounder faces and flowing clothing versus the more southern Indian appearance.
The back streets which are on the lake circuit are full of dharbas, cloth and Tibetan inspired stores. We are also approached by more people for donations. Including a haggle of well worn grandmothers. Monks also moving around either chanting or on other specific business. Our tolerance levels unfortunately have been eroded by the climb, several times wanting to give tooting drivers the finger on the climb however thankfully maintaining our chi, still not at full strength as yet to eat lunch and now 4pm.
We grab lunch / dinner at the Kora Community Cafe and try out their 100% Indian coffee. Coffee ok but the veg chowmein with cashews is great as is the dhal and chapattis. Decide to check out the real main street and pass herdsmen bringing in their goats with a couple of kids also. Otherwise a normal bustling Indian village. We cut through the high side of town which is less bustling and touristy and more residential and relaxed, though still with a Tibetan accent. We follow stairs that would not look out of place in a Harry potter movie and one or two narrow alleys and are back on the tourist circuit yet the touts have packed up for the evening. Head to an Internet / cyber cafe and share it with two backpackers and more then our fair share of super sized mosquittos. In a Buddhist town feeling guilty about swatting them.
Back to the Gompa and to our room. Single beds but great. Monkeys are out in force. There is nothing like monkeys on the roof, and ripping apart newspapers out the front or hanging from the guttering to make interest nighttime noise. I have the window bed. I no doubt will dream of Jumanji and the scene where monkeys steal a police car as that is what it currently sounds like outside. Every now and again Soph mutters naughty monkeys in her semi sleep succumbed state. Beanie on.