K - Too (Monday 21 March 2011)

Day 14 - Lukla to Kathmandu
Relocate to the airport with the sound of incoming planes.

Success. Someone is manning the checkin counter. In fact there are staff wandering the airport, definitely a good sign. Airport communication is a little lite on at the airport. If you want to know whether planes are flying just check whether the confectionary bench is open in the lobby, if not then don't bother going looking for the airport staff as they definitely won't be around.

Watch the first phase leave and then the Sita second phase at about 9.30am starting to wonder whether we will get out today or not. Just then see two Tara flights rollup the landing strip and turn into the loading bays. Climb into a Dornier 228 for the return flight, smaller plane but a little more comforting. No stuffing around once everyone is inboard the door is shut by the hostess and the plane starts taxi-ing for the strip.

Flying out appears much simpler then coming in, pilots gun the engines and then start the downhill run. Three quarters of the way down the plane lifts off and we fly straight out of the valley. Turbulence is not very noticeable and it is a clear flight. Touch down at Kathmandu smoothly rolling around past the domestic terminal.

Jump on the Tarmac bus that drives us out to an open air bag recovery area near the taxi stand. For one second undpcertain whether we were just being escorted out of the airport. Share a taxi back to Thammel 500 rup. Feels like home walking across to Paknajol Rd. The side street where the hotel is located has purple tika marks all over the tar. Obviously the scene of some serious action on Saturday.

Dinner at K-Too of steaks and hamburger. Pilsenser also a winner, best of all Apple fried momos. Mudcake not that great however. Restaurant run by same guys as Kilroys. Settle into the Yellow House post some serious laundry duty.

Gokyo Trek - pictorial

Pictorial of the trek we have recently completed... Lukla to Gokyo and back via the Renjo Pass.

Information from the walk has now been posted day by day with additional visuals.

Click to view other photos from our Gokyo - Rhenjo Pass trek.

Lovin Lukla (Sunday 20 March 2011)

Day 13 - Lukla
Groundhog day, but less cheering this morning.

At 9am we relocate to the airport. High wind and cloud is interfering again following successful phase one getting out. People, generally groups are investing in helicopter seats as they can still get out. We count seven helicopters coming in and out.

We relocate to the bakery and invest in some books. Small huddles at various tables which have the intensity of councils of war discussing travel timing concerns and frustrations.

Note a passing Buddhist funeral procession. The ceremonies or sky funerals sounding a lot nicer than Tibetan funerals of the past. Bodies these days (sometimes in a seated position) are carried on a bier to generally a high ridge where they are cremated following being anointed on the eyes, mouth and top of head with butter.

Khatas are tied to the surrounding wood. Monks lead the ceremony with family and friends. Once the body is cremated, (the pop of the skull being an auspicious sound of the soul being released) any remaining bone fragments are crushed, mixed with clay and placed in small base relief religious images which are then relocated to religious locations. In Heinrich's time (Seven years in Tibet) bodies of non monks were butchered into small pieces and left on high ridges for the vultures and birds to consume leaving no trace including bones. This as one could imagine was a particularly gruesome task. Monks were cremated but this was expensive. The only other alternative for the really poor was that the body be thrown into the river where the fish performed a similar task.

Another interesting thing with the Sherpa is that apparently according to Frances Klatzel (Gaiety of Spirit - the Sherpas of Everest) the youngest son inherits to the family home and the responsibility to care for the parents in old age. If no son then daughter. Anyway..

Back to the Yeti office at 3.45pm. Secure flight 6 and told to turn up at 7.30am, sounds much more promising.

Windy city (Saturday 19 March 2011)

Day 12 - Lukla
Wake up to the noise of people cheering and commenting that the sky was clear. People with tickets identifying today's date start relocating to the airport. We take a casual approach as we are in the third wave, moving across to the Lukla bakery across from the airport terminal at 9am. Turns out Kathmandu has been fogged in and aircraft grounded.

We relocate to a large bolder at the end of the airstrip and wait for the incoming planes. As it was, although clear and sunny the wind started to pick up. The sound of circling planes that we could not see. An hour later after no incoming planes we walked back up to the terminal, the word on the street that due to the wind flights had been cancelled, the airport being deserted a confirming sign.

Steer clear of Holi adherents running around with red tikka which is then smeared over or thrown at you. Because of higher number of buddhists no issue, Holi being a Hindi festival. Pity though to have missed in Kathmandu though as would have been big. As mentioned before though, Tika is not the easiest thing to get off your face, so maybe a good thing.

Chill out trying the coffee places around Lukla. Decide that bar the Bakery the other places are garbage. Turn up at the Yeti office to again check in at 3pm returning at 4pm to get further details. Confirmed that we are on flight 11 and told to turn up at 9.30am. Doesn't sound promising.

New room with a bolt that works and a double bed. Cheering.

Freight forwarding (Friday 18 March 2011)

Day 11 - Namche to Lukla
Wake to sound of light chanting at 6am, quite peaceful. After breakfast Soph heads up with the families blessing and sits cross legged on the benches with the monks. The ritual involving the individual reading from separate Nyingmapa (Tibetan scripts) by each of the monks.

Some, generally the older, know the scripts printed on long rectangular sheets off by heart. It seems a relatively casual affair where mobile calls are taken, entry in and out of the room and tea is on constant offering served via the families grandmother.

We leave the house at 10.30am, the father having identified that flights from Kathmandu cancelled today due to fog cover in Kathmandu and Lukla. Down the trail we pass a constant stream of porters carrying Dokos loaded with all sort of goods for the Saturday bazaar in Namche. Cartons of beer, powdered milk, large white heshian bags of clothes, large metal containers of mustard oil, soap, kerosene etc. All stacked up high in the woven baskets with the forehead straps tight, walking leaning on staves in a T shape. Used as walking stave on the flats but then a prop for the basket when tired having struggled up hill. Some of the loads being carried by these guys are really full on.

Apparently the markets are big. Tibetans are even known during summer to cross the Nangpa La pass from Tibet to trade. These days less salt (tibetan salt being rock salt and non iodized - not great for health but still preferred by some sherpa for their tea) and wool, more chinese white goods.

Top Danda's side porter rest stop was full. To make conditions more challenging also pass Zopkyoks (Yak and Cow crossbreed) with saddle and bells also sharing the trails and a light drizzle is falling making the trail slippery. Cross the bridge high over the confluence having to lean over the side every now and again to allow passing loaded up porter to pass in the opposite direction. The mist adding to the mystery of the side valleys that we pass. Through Toktok (2760mtr) and pass the waterfall where the buds are starting to bloom. Fair share of Rai also heading up to the Saturday Bazaar. Ethnic group from lower in the valley identifiable by height, coloring and female jewelry including nose rings.

Make Lukla at about 2.30pm in time to checkin with Yeti before 4pm which ensures your consideration for the following days flights. The system working on the basis that those booked with tomorrows date get preference followed by those with booked tickets but who have been unable to fly and then those who have open tickets and who have been waiting the longest time. So basically we, on open tickets would only get a seat if the guys from today who had been unable to get out.

Continue along the uneven paths to the Paradise lodge right next to the airport runstrip. Photos of Hillary on the wall with the lodge owner. Quite a crowd due to one extra days worth of Trekkers being unable to fly out. Use the third bed in our room to lock the door that night as the internal bolt had been broken. Very quiet night.

Buddhists in them thar hills (Thursday 17 March 2011)

Day 10 - Thame to Namche
Woke up with the light and to the sound of yak bells and running water. Climbed out of doona covered mattress where pillow formed by hay filled hessian sack under the top of the bed. Smell of roasted cinnamon starting tummies early but not breakfast, rather incense from juniper incense for house blessing lit in outside small circular oven which the smoke filters through. Out to dining room benches for breakfast and choose Tibetan bread and Tsampa porridge (made of buckwheat flour, butter, sugar and black tea added from a thermos to make paste).

Inspect the far side of Bhote Kosi to see massive chunk of dislodged earth, easily house sized, to continue its slip towards the river, a further 50 mtrs below. Leave thankful for choice of staying in a smaller lodge, more personal. Walk towards Thame monastery (first established in the 16th century). Past a range of stupas up onto ridge that runs upwards to the west and the mountain valley behind. Piles of mani stones accrued over the years by those seeking to improve their prospects of rebirth.

Closer to the monastery more pines growing on the hillside before entering via an old Kani with hand painted Buddhas on walls and mandala on roof. View across valley to snow capped ridge, very serene. Path circling the base of the temple complex before turning towards main temple set against the mountainside. Front terraced courtyard and similar incense hearth as this morning.

Up final stairs through entrance chamber and facing huge prayer wheel painted with various Buddhas. Give it a spin which requires walking a full revolution to generate sufficient speed to continue spinning. Through large Tibetan styled entrance rug draped over door and into temple proper. Large room completely covered in paintings with texts in cloth wrapped bundles in shelves along walls. Large golden statue of seated Buddha. Temple drums, horns, conch shells etc spread around cushioned benches on which sit marone rugs for the cold mornings. Leaving temple pass creatively carved mani boulders with characters curved with stones natural curves.

Drop down off the ridge to main path to Namche on Thames eastern edge. Thame's claim to fame bar being the location of the monastery, the Austrian hydro scheme and also the hometown of a young Tenzing Norgay. Pick up the occasional cookie and cigarette packets on the walk down following the stream to the bridge close to the river below. Cookies could be anyone but cigarettes most likely porters or Sherpa. Cigarettes referred to as "Sherpa oxygen" in one book, if not cigarettes than also come across golden packets of loose tobacco. Landslips on most of the river beds showing that land formation still in it's comparative infancy. Not good however for trail network which tends to follow the rivers closely down the valleys. The metal bridge crossing the Bhote Kosi is low down at the face of the canyon prior to the Thame Khola, any serious wall of water down here and you would be in serious trouble. The view back through the smooth water curved canyon is great.

Walk along the valley wall reentering forested slopes and green rather then brown and rocks. The path climbs from the crossing up a steep staircase that swings around the rock wall with some great wall art of both an aged Buddha and green Tara before dropping back down to the river crossing just before Phurte. (3390mtr) Have a close encounter with a donkey, thanks to some tight rock wall lined paths through town, but all goes well. Mist developing up in the valley, maybe more snow on the way, however buds are starting to appear which are the first we have seen in the past week or so. Pass the Sagarmatha Forest nursery also an initiative of the Himalayan trust.

Villages, mainly women in terraced fields and sorting potatoes stored in four foot deep holes in their fields with juniper and then soil piled on top through the winter. Watch trimming of the potatoes and selection of the seed potatoes. Soph asked one lady but she was not that keen for a photo.

Path angles up through Gonglo and then around past mani stones and then a series of small open rock quarries high on the ridge, obviously supplying the building demand in Namche. Small pits already down below head height like a series of massive rabbit burrows. Would make a good free ride track some time in the future. Namches helicopter pad just around the corner, with wind sock that obviously gets plenty of use. Descend switchbacks stairs to the gompa still high above the lodges. Circumambulate the gompa spinning the prayer wheels as we go. The prayer wheels were financed by a Sherpa family who lost their son and grandson in a helicopter crash.

Decide to settle into the Zamling Lodge opposite the gompa. Three stories and obviously cared well for. Owned by previous High altitude climb Sherpa with some great historical climbing pieces on display in the dining room in addition to numerous signed expedition posters. Also photos taken at Sherpa festivals clearly identifying the ties with Tibetan past. Upstairs hear chanting. Turns out that twenty three monks from Tengboche monastery here performing a four day puja ceremony in the families attic Buddhist shrine for the benefit of the family and the next year being an annual event. In the kitchen one younger monk making Dough figurines (Torma) for the ceremony made out of Tsampa (Barley flour) and butter.

Walk down and try out the Namche bakery for Salami pizza and coffee. Very good. Move onto Henrich bakery which is run by same guys as the other bakery, meet Austrian couple and their guide whose snow trail breaking saved us an hour or so and totally soaked socks on the wall across Gokyo Ri. They pulled up apparently at Marulung.

Visit a Tibetan thanka store run by the Art Herritage of Himalaya run by Raghunath Lama who seems quite interesting and is apparently running an art school to assist others. Back up to the Lodge in overcast and cloud. Precipitation almost light rain or snow. Back at the lodge the chanting has upgraded to drumming and the occasional horn section. The drumming is quite rhythmical and melodic but the horns, well..

That night following dinner we watch Himalayan culture movies including some of the 2006 Dalai Lama's seventieth birthday celebrations and 2008 Free Tibet concert followed by a couple of music numbers filmed in Mustang. Fantastic sleep.

La la la (Wednesday 16 March 2011)

Day 9 - Gokyo to Thame
Departed Gokyo Resort at about 8am into a perfect blue sky day. The wind had howled throughout the night and finally blown itself out by the morning to our great relief.

Down over the lakes edge past two pairs of ducks. Skirting round the side of Gokyo Ri and up along the edge of the slowly melting lake below. After map consultation we realized we had walked too high and were past the initial ascent section for the Rhenjo La Pass. We had the advantage of fresh foot tracks ahead of us to help guide us along the way, as the rock cairns were spread out and not overly visible in some sections.

The way up to the pass took a few hours with slowly changing scenery. Huge escarpments on the sides, glaciers, rock scrambling and heavier snow walking. The pond/lake areas were only just beginning to melt. The climb was a little deceptive - twice before we actually reached the pass it appeared we were nearly there...upon reaching the point to find another section of the ascent had opened up over the top.

The views were panoramic back to Everest...on a wide scale. Such luck to have a crystal clear, windless day over the Pass. Gokyo could be seen from nearly all points of the ascent. The rock formations on the mountain tops varied in shape, with sharp angles and blue ice ledges.

Prayer flags (or Windhorses, so named as the five coloured flags (signifying the elements Earth, Wood, Water, Fire and Metal) generally include a symbol noting the bearer of prayers who is said to carry the prayers on the wind around the globe to the benefit of all sentinent beings) welcomed us at the pass and after enjoying a pack of coconut cookies (which have been a favorite since arriving in India for energy food) we started on the descent which opened up into another deep valley shaped as an amphitheater with a series of frozen lakes along the valley floor. The stairs shaped from an abundance of rock were generally only half to three quarters covered in snow, so the downhill progress was reasonable. Still care not to sink deeply into the snow.

Upon reaching the amphitheater floor, to the side of the first frozen lake, there were a few very icy crossings and heavy snow. We walked steadily down the valley for a few hours without sighting anyone else and came to a ridge line providing north and south views of the Bhote Valley. Towering mountains on either side with ice drapes formed in the rock crevaces.





At this point we decided Thame would be our evening destination...we had the choice of a few small villages before Thame but decided with the weather being so kind and feeling good we could press on into the afternoon. It was 2pm and the trekking bible predicted three hours from this point to Thame. The snow was starting to lessen and the dirt and rock path ahead made for faster progress.

We passed through the villages of Lungdhen, Marulung and Taranga which were all quiet. A few yaks, naks (female yaks and therefore should be Nak milk and cheese) with bells grazing on the mountain sides, locals carrying grass bundles and a few porters with food stocks..along with friendly smiling Sherpa women going about their everyday chores. The valley through to Thame was densely scattered with rocks, hence the rock houses and rock fences for the livestock - yaks, naks and sheep. The bridge crossings showed off the clean mountain water with snow melts creating many side streams flowing down from the mountain sides.

Beautiful light resting in the distant mountains as we walked into Thame Og. The village was quiet and after asking in regards to a lodge settled in at about 4pm. Dal Bhaat will go down well after today's walk.

Spoke with a local teacher who had worked in Thame Og for eight years and took lodging in the house/lodge where we stayed for the night. He also gave the lodge owners son tutoring.

After discussing a range of things we spoke about whether it was difficult in Khumbu to select a student by their name as Sherpas are named after the day of the week they are born. ie. seven first names exist..each day of the week. For example, Pemba Sherpa is born on Saturday, Dorje Sherpa is born on Monday. He mentioned that in primary only a couple of such situations in a class and so 1 or 2 , or A and B was used. However in high school first and middle names were used especially for examinations. Sherpas middle names usually have a religious or auspicious symbolism.

Stuped grandmother wearing the crossover Sherpa style tunic with bandana wrapped hair climbed up on the bench in front of home temple and changed the water bowls (Sangshu or ornamental water used to pour water into offering bowls). This is a twice daily ritual. Tried to use the little Nepali we have, however she only spoke Sherpa not Nepali.

Scoundrel (Tuesday 15 March 2011)

Day 8 - Gokyo
The 3am Gokyo Ri risers were fairly quiet this morning. The disturbance was brief and we had the luxury or sanity of a 7am breakfast with blue skies beckoning us into the valley. After the standard oat porridge and hot lemon mugs, we say a quick farewell to the Dutch couple who had been staying in the same lodges as us along the way. Then out with all layers on, into the very brisk morning air.

Our water bottle had ice still intact inside. Following boot tracks from others yesterday, who had walked up the valley floor, we reached the fourth lake in an hour..easy walking and relatively flat with rock hopping in-between. Upon reaching the fourth lake we had planned to navigate our way to the side of the Finger to then climb as far as possible toward the craggy Towers up on top.

Unfortunately the weather had alternative plans for us. We were fairly close to the ascent having tramped through repetitive knee deep snow and rock hopped when some large wind snow twisters started up. We could see on the high side of the Finger a mini snow, ice and dust storm heading our way. This was the beginning of many ice, snow wind gushes that we could only turn our backs to until each one subsided. Thank goodness for many clothing layers and wind stopper jackets with hoods pulled in tight around our cheeks as the wind with ice pellets were quite biting.

We decided to turn back as the conditions did not appear to be diminishing. At times when the wind dropped it was once again warm and with predominantly blue sky, picturesque. However just when we both considered that we were being soft and that we could head back to the ascent, the wind picked up and pelted our backs with icy snow. Hard not to feel frustrated, but such are the odds when wandering around up here.

We came across a couple of Tibetan Snowcocks quietly pecking away on a sheltered rocky hillside. Icicles were in abundance hanging from rocks along with spotted rocks with small circles of moss in varying colours. The springtime growth is not really evident up this high with barren hillsides. The conditions from Gokyo and above obviously remain harsher than down the valley where the new shoots and buds were just beginning.

Back along the trail on the valley floor to the lodge for a quiet afternoon of reading, writing and sleeping with the wind howling outside.

A delicious dinner of house specialty stew, veg fried rice, topped off by apple pie which is the food highlight of the Gokyo valley from a trekkers treat point of view. All set for hopefully a clear morning to tackle the Rhenjo La Pass and to start our descent.

Impermanence day (Monday 14 March 2011)

Day 7 - Gokyo
Wake early as groups have set wake up routine of 4.30am here to then hike up to Gokyo Ri (5357m) just across from the lodges past the ice lake where view of Everest or Chomolungma as known by the Sherpas.

Once they have gone we fall back to sleep until 6.45am. Plan for today to follow moraine wall as far along the valley as possible hoping to pass Scoundrels View (commented best viewpoint of Everest without requiring climbing) to the fifth lake and maybe then onto Cho Oyu Base Camp further up the valley.

We climb the ridge same as yesterday afternoon but today, after the snow yesterday, the sky is cloudless dark blue and sunny. The moraine wall we find is far from a continuous lip. We therefore climb and fall as we head North. We chose this path instead of the valley floor in order to find a walking section hopefully without deep snow drifts, though every drop on the moraine heading north is on the leeward side resulting in a build up of light powdered snow. We try where we can to follow previous compressions from a solo walker to reduce sinking up to our knees.

Success varying, not so concerning in boots, but Sophs joggers are not exactly cut out for snow wandering. The occasional drop also making the mind wonder where you will touch base rock, especially on the high side of the lip. No cornices that we notice, but you read enough stories. The view along the valley is superb and although tiring the moraine height gives a great perspective across the valley floor to Gokyo Ri on the left and moraine ablation on right. At the end of the valley the towering Cho Oyu is prominent.

After an hour of walking, rock hopping, winding and trying to avoid snow drifts, past Gokyo Ri we spot the fourth lake...no surprise also iced over. Smaller than the third lake and wedged in valley between Gokyo Ri and the Nameless Towers (Donag Tse).

Decide to push on for another two hours only due to the slow progress along the wall. Passed rock cairn memorial of Korean climber with bronze plaque. View of Nameless Towers (the Finger) bringing confidence of our ability to trek up as it appears a rolling ridge leading up and to the right before the true sharp peaks (towers or finger) further towards to Cho Oyu.

Climbing it will have to be left to another day, as we push on towards Scoundrels View. Finally we ascend the rocky ridge and sit with fantastic view around towards Everest. Blue green craggy glacier sitting below rock wall versus the rock covered glacier in the foreground.

The weather starts to turn as we sit on semi protected rocks and stock up on mountain mix. Sunglasses essential as the glare increases at the same time as the wind chill factor.

With wind proof hoods up we decide to return to the lodge the same way as approach rather than down onto the valley floor. On the way back the pockets of glacial melt are more evident among the rock fields below. We listen to the crackles and drips noticeable from this height.

Drop back down to the lodge at 2pm not totally buggered but first solid day since walk to Namche. Quiet afternoon drying out shoes, socks and pants whilst considering options for tomorrow. Lodge filled with another group here to do Goyko Ri so no doubt another early morning wakeup!

Snow lake (Sunday 13 March 2011)

Day 6 - Machermo to Gokyo
Fantastic night. The combination of extreme quiet and spread of rooms. The blankets, pillows and comfy mattress for a perfect nights sleep. Out onto the trail just after 8am. The trail heads out behind the lodge out of Machermo, and up the ridge spur before flattening out to Pangka which we passed through quickly preferring to arrive in Gokyo earlier.

Again the valley to our right is largely bare with snow and rocks the main sight. The river now is much closer to our right as we continued along to climb small rises, dodging large rock boulders and every now and then, skating on icy snow caught in the smaller path erosion or ledges. The continuous rock boulder pile, on our right on the far side of the river leading further up the valley is huge. Feel fine, however a little breathless on the slight altitude pitches, unaffected on the lesser slopes and flats.

We start climbing rock stairs that follow the wall up to a metal lattice bridge crossing. The river is now a stream rushing through ice. The temperature is pleasant until the sun is hidden by cloud. Chill really felt when this coincides with temporary snack stop. From the bridge, we climb up and around rock outcrop prior to view of the first lake flowing but looking icy, not stopping five ducks from sitting on its surface.


Track continues around the face following the morraine with increasingly deep snow on edge of path, which is itself now just depressed snow. Climb another small rocky outcrop then the view of the second lake, totally covered in snow and ice, emerges. We cover a long flat before the final climb with more dirt on the walking trail up and around a bend to view the much larger third lake..again covered in ice and snow.

Climb path to Gokyo Resort and settle in. Plenty of chough floating around but now yellow billed sitting on lodge rooves.

Out for a walk up on the high moraine which runs behind the lodges. It appears to run all the way to Cho Oyu Base Camp and looks similar to Annapurna South Glacier. Massive trench of gravel and stones but this glacier is identified in our guide book as rock covered. Rock covered or not the glacier is a baby of what it obviously once was, as attested to by the high and wide valley and moraine walls. The morraine wall shows recent evidence of land slips so we proceed with caution. The path winds up through alpine grass and moss spotted alpine rocks. From the top we notice that a pocket of melt is evident on the third lake with blue azure water showing. It will be spectacular in a month or two.

Move past Buddhist prayer flags held by stones and along the ridge line. Wind picking up and dark clouds coming up the valley from Machermo so we retire to the sun warmed dining room.

Tea of boiled potatoes and rice pudding. Soph with two thermals, fleece and down jacket. At about 4pm it begins to snow, with small flecks again, not flakes. Bedroom is great, pillows, blankets and double pained windows. Once the elephants above us, second floor, have gotten into bed it is silent.

Sleepless in Dole (Saturday 12 March 2011)

Day 5 - Dole to Machermo
Slow night counting sheep and then anything that came to mind in the hope of drifting off. No headache, just awake and not even noticeably breathing hard. Peregrine group up at 6.30am.

From Dole track straight up side of ridge behind the lodge before gradually flattening and following the contours from Lhafarma to Luza. Less foliage, more snow, rocks and alpine grass. View back across to the opposing valley wall and high exposed trail, passing quite a few rock falls. Sitting above snow covered peaks of Cholatse and Tabuche Peak (6495mtr). Cholatse with a huge ledge of ice to the side of the summit. Down below cold and ancient looking huts and rock enclosures on ground taken from mountain and sitting above the Dudh Kosi.

Passed through Luza on the flats before last small climb over a ridge and down through snow to Machermo.

The Mochermo Kola cutting the lodges into two groups before dropping off the side. Valley leading back up to left before swinging to the right under the Kyajo Ri (6186m). Settle into the Namgyal Lodge which looks good at 10.30am. Drop off bags, order lunch and head up the valley past the hospital following the snowy floor.

No noticeable trail, so we rock hop following the stream which soon disappears under snow. Further up the valley, small bramble, similar to that in the Australian alpine region. Small mossy covered sections where the water flow comes out of the mountain to the snow.

We give a wide berth to some free grazing yaks. Still climbing up toward a sheer rock wall where ice is hanging in tentacles over a rock lip. We continue the climb up a side ridge in order to gain ground faster and return via high side yak trails, crossing a rubble scree slope and then a larger boulder scree slope before dropping off the side back to the lodges.
 
Good dal bhaat for lunch. A quiet afternoon writing and reading sharing lodge with a Dutch couple who were also at Dole, the night before.

Temperature dropping in the afternoon with cloud cover over the mountains. We sit in the dining room with beenie, thermal, fleece and down jacket.....just warm. The dining room is interesting with painted scenes on the walls and an arched ceiling. The seating area around the wall is covered in colorful Tibetan style rugs and back cushions. The room is heated by a central wood burner - the fuel being yak dung. The lodge has solar panels which besides lighting can also be used for battery recharge at 350rup an hour.

Our bedroom has a similarly arched ceiling and feels a lot more solid than previous lodge rooms. The windows from our room are of spectacular views both ways to the mountains.

Yak track (Friday 11 March 2011)

Day 4 - Phortse Tenga to Dole
Again semi early start climbing back up to main trail and Dole(4040mtr). Again not a long walk as still in acclimatization phase. Similar to yesterday hit some icey sections of trail the first requiring serious consideration of continued foot placement. Meet a Sherpa sprinkling dirt over sections before his close following heavily laddened yak team started to come down the trail.


Pass some iced over waterfalls surrounded by snow and water turned to ice in long blue glistening stalagtites. Trail continues to curl up with stairs and then inclined path. View of Dole for last climb up through the more sparsely covered slopes. In Dole pass the Hilltop and Namaste lodges and move to side of a solo unladened Yak standing in the middle of the trail. When I pass however, met with a slight duck and then horn to the ribs. Thankfully only half heartedly but will now keep proximity on future trails in mind.

Drop down to the snow and ice covered stream. First to the Yeti Lodge but no response from the Tibetan cloth covered door so wander onto the Dole resort two doors down. Settle in at 10.30am.

Decide to stretch the legs by following the stream back up the valley to a small rock cairned knoll beneath the sheer snow faced mountain above. Small twisted and still dormant Rhododendron trees with heavy inward curled leaves from the cold. Rhododendron are the Nepalese national flower. Interestingly the flowers when out are supposed to change colour depending upon altitude of the plant, from red at lower altitudes to white at the highest.

Back to the lodge at 2pm. Prior to quiet afternoon of reading and writing in the warm lodge dining room. Clouds filling the sky, so uncertain of where the weather will go in next few days. Share lodge with group from Peregrine who at about 3pm continue up the hill towards Lhafarma as part of their acclimatization program.

Great lodge and interesting company but similar issue to Namche with frequent night time visitations to the bathroom opposite our rooms door.

River crossing (Thursday 10 March 2011)

Day 3 - Namche to Phortse Tenga
Up late for what appears to be group mountain trekking standard of around 6am, or at least that is when you can hear the thump of trekking boots echoing down the hall on the thin plywood. That is excluding the various night time excursions of users to the bathroom. Apparently a good sign when ascending. No rush as we are planning another short walk due to further acclimatization. Only up and over to Phortse Tenga our first stop in the Gokyo valley or Death valley as refered to by helicopter pilots (per our guidebook) due to trekkers overlooking acclimatization needs. Sky is brilliant blue with few clouds on the horizon.

Again the climb up to Choigang (note spelling varies for many places depending upon author of map or book) and then gradual inclement of a contouring trail around to Kyangjuma (3550mtr). Beautiful peak of Ama Dablam jutting into the sky up the valley. Spot a brightly feathered pair of Tibetan snow cocks poking around in a semi bare field. Again feeling of alpine country due to blue pine and fir. Pass Intrepid group at Kyangjuma who continue straight to Tengboche versus deviating to the left towards Gokyo.

A couple of times made to jump as passing Red billed chough zoom by with magpie close intensity. These black bodied birds (but with red feet and beaks) dive past like fighter planes tucking their wings in tight to their bodies as they drop off the edge of the valley. They pass with no identifiable malice, but have no apparent concern of scaring the hair off your head in passing with a near sonic boom. Sparking off flight or fight instincts in those easily on edge.

From Kyangjuma we reach the trail junction of Khunde / Tengboche and immediately deviate up a steep ascent on a smaller dirt path above Sanasa. Most of the way to Mong (3973mtr) the trail remains in the sun but towards the top of the trail crest increasing bitter wind. Looking back across to the valley of Lobuche the mountain range including Cholatse (6335mtr) leads down to the high plain on which sits Phortse high above the confluence of the young Dudh Kosi Nadi and the Imja Khola.

Reach Mong and the white Chorten which visually marks it. Decide to have lunch in smaller lodge Mountain View as it has benches under the valley side windows giving not only gorgeous views of the mountains but also full back warming sun. Dal Bhaat is great and generous. Perfect lunch. Asked outside by a guide sitting with client where our guide is, point to the book in Soph's hand.

From Mong fleece back on as descend fast or at least faster then ascent but into the increasingly sun shaded valley below. The folds on the now leeward side quite fresh as confirmed by the snow and occasional ice crossing the path. At Phortse Tenga (Tenga meaning bridge) continue down to the river and the bridge that identifies it. Valley thin before squeezing through a gorge below the trail junction.

Settle into the River resort lodge at 1.30pm. We crack open the wallet for a shared bucket of hot water (200rup) prior to heading back out for some exploration of the river side. Nearly implant myself in the paving outside the main door thanks to some black ice. Head down to the river past a couple of sheds built with rocks into the side of massize river boulders. Cross the river on a rough log bridge following a team of yaks who without any apparent supervision slowly mount the bridge stairs and then quite methodically cross the bridge.

Start to climb slowly towards Phortse through golden paper barked trees draped with fine lite green tendrils of moss. Have company of a small cow until decide to instead return to riverside to investigate a section where the fast flowing river disappears under snow prior to slipping down through the canyon. In our attempts to access we pass a tree tall accumulation of ice from no apparent source, before crossing and post a little bush bashing reach the canyon wall.

In the tight scrubby bush squeezed between large river boulders we descend before the mouth of an empty cave. A little further along we heard something move off without our being able to see with a slight whistling sound. Visions of yeti filling thoughts. Gokyo valley is quite known for Yeti myth. ( have since read Reinhold Messner's My quest for the Yeti, in which he details his search post an encounter. Messner is one of the most renown mountain climbers in the world, but the book is not fantastic)

Back to the Lodge for early dinner. Bed early as furnace in the dining room had run out of wood. Room freezing and Soph certain that outside warmer. Thin blankets turn out to be great as must be down filled. Warm if restless night. No vivid dreams as not asleep long enough for REM sleep to set in.

White flecks (Wednesday 9 March 2011)

Day 2 - Namche rest day (Khunde, Khumjung)
Wake late allowing the Intrepid guys to clear out of the dining room. Chilly even with fluffy lodge blankets. Have decided to use an extra day in Namche to assist acclimatization. Choose to plod (calves still a little worked out) up the stairs further toward Tengboche, but at Choigang swing up the steep ridge line following a small back track to Syandboche (3900mtr) and the old dirt airstrip above. The airstrip not being used much any more as only small single engined planes able to touch down. Bar the height and the lack of tar it feels flatter then Lukla and less exposed, but I guess the incline (which I read at Lukla is about an 8 degree upward angle though it feels closer to 30 when the plane sounds like it remains on full throttle to roll up to the strip) is only a part of the story, with cross winds and mountain restricted approach distances being very important also.

From the top corner of the airstrip we follow the path up and back into the pines past a porter rest area, through a small snowdrift covered pass down into Khunde (3840mtr). Khunde a small cluster of rock walled fields and houses backs onto the Khumbui Yul Lha (5765m) the Sherpa holy mountain ("country god" of Khumbu). High on the ridge leading to the sheer mountain behind is a memorial to Sir Edmund Hillary's wife and daughter tragically killed in a plane crash when coming to visit him on one of his many trips to the Khumbu. Many infrastructure aspects of the region reflecting the great work that the trust that he established (Himalayan Trust) has achieved with the local communities and people.

The Khumbu is believed to be one of many Beyul or sanctuaries that Guru Rinpoche predicted and sanctified for the people of the Tibetan region to flee to in times of trouble. Whether as a result the Sherpa a Tibetan descended people now call the valley home.

Following entry via a Kani and then a central wall made of hundreds of mani stones leading to a Nepalese stupa (or Chorten as known in Tibet). Directed by an aged Sherpa, who was taking a leak outside his house when we walked down the stairs, we looped the whole setup in effect sending us back out of town and through the Kani again.


Into town proper and follow the rock wall bordered paths that swerve between the village's currently bare fields. The occasional white fleck has us wondering whether the wind is picking up the fallen snow off the ridge above. By the time we have wandered up towards the gompa high on the hillside the few flecks have increased in frequency and we have donned our wind stoppers and beanies. Down towards Khumjung (Jung meaning lower flats and Khum or Khumbu area, de or as originally te is upper) and we are now surrounded in constant snow flecks but small instead of large flakes. Passed by older Sherpa women making for their houses after working in their potatoe fields during the morning. We decide to retreat to the Sherpaland lodge for some warmth.

By the time we leave, following another groups entry, the wind has picked up and is blowing the still little flecks directly at us. We leave the town past another long line of mani stones and stairs through a second pass and back down to Syangboche. Snow starting to coat the ground as we cut back down to Namche following yak eroded trails through the small shrubs. Straight into the dinning room of the lodge and order Dal Bhaat. Semi warm relocate to bed and watch through the window the snow gather pace. Fall to sleep with a slight altitude induced headache.

Another great quote from Tenzing's book coming to mind; "We shouldn't believe that small wrongdoing can do no harm, because even a small spark can ignite a giant pile of hay. Similiarly, the value of the smallest good deeds should not be underestimated, for even tiny flakes of snow, falling one atop another, can blanket the tallest mountains in pure whiteness."

Flying high (Tuesday 8 March 2011)

Day 1 - Kathmandu to Namche (via Lukla airport)
Arrived airport at 5am on travel agents advice. Share the verandah of the not yet open domestic terminal with a friendly dog. We all enjoy breakfast of pastries. Various deliveries of paper wrapped and bound goods to share the various flights dropped also on the verandah. 5.30am one other westerner arrives followed 5 mins later by another.

We continue to stand guard by the front doors, every now and then peering in to see if there is any response to our presence. Over the next ten minutes locals start to turn up. A small crowd and still no action at the doors. 5.50am airport policeman comes across and attempts to unlock but has been bolted outside.

Once we make it inside we pay the 170 rup per person airport levy and attain boarding pass. At 6.20am a flight is called...Tara Air to Lukla...we make our way to the boarding gates but told not us. Given our boarding pass had flight number one we had made the assumption, but incorrect. We wait for another 50 mins, slowly getting a little tired of hanging around when finally Tara to Lukla is called up again. We board a small bus out onto the Tarmac.

Past all the planes on first inspection and wondering just what we are flying in. Arrive next to an older DHC-6/300 Twin Otter. Load in three to a row. No stuffing around once we are in. Hostess in long green traditional skirt serves lollies down the narrow aisle. Take off very soon after.

Unfortunately fog and haze obscues much of the view until we are well and truly over the mountains. When they do come into view they are close. New experience passing over versus slowly cycling up.

Not long after we hit our first turbulence which puts your heart in your throat. Abdominal muscles tighten as if to assist keeping everything in place. The plane continues to involuntarilly duck and weave and then levels out again. Inspect the view of the snow crested range growing closer. But now more intently, as if scanning for potential touch down points, of which there appear none. Pilots, who we can all see, in the cockpit appear pretty chilled out. Good sign. Hit similar turbulence three more times before the plane banks to the left. Whilst banking hits turbulence a final time which really puts everybody on edge.

Plane passes through the narrow valley's walls as the airport sitting on the ridge line below is in view. The aircraft circles the now very close mountain valley ridge, lining up the landing strip down and in front. The plane drops quite quickly as the steep airstrip comes closer. The plane touches down rolling uphill to the applause of those on board. Several people discuss on exiting the plane that walking out is now a serious consideration. We had considered walking in but had decided against as three additional days of walking from Jiri the last bus stand into the hills.

Out into brisk morning air, collect our bags, pass the waiting crowd of porters at the airport's side gate and head onto the streets of Lukla. Past several bakeries with Lavazza and Illy coffee signs, followed by a Starbucks. Would not be surprised to see a McDonalds or KFC around the next corner. Check in our TIMS card(Free Independant Trekker) and then onto the trail proper having spun a few prayer wheels on the way.

The appreciation of how different the experience from the ABC trek is fast dawning with the river already well below in the valley and the snow crested mountains already showing our close proximity. The path itself starting as more of a stroll. Dropping from Lukla (2850m) to Cheplung where we stop in at the Norbu Linkha one of three lodges that burnt down in 2006, but since then, rebuilt.

Order apple pie having heard good reviews and two cups of hot lemon. Apple pie when it arrives is fresh and steaming living up to good review. More like apple pastie - lightly fried pastry with apple grated inside. Spot the Rangdo Gompa high on the hill to our right built into a shear rock face. Will have to check out on the way down.


Views of valley to our left still rising sharply from the Dudh Kosi (Milk river) below. Fine mist flowing across higher peaks. Continue on to Phakding (2640m) where most groups stop for the night. The slopes where they are not shear rock face or ploughed field with rock walls, largely tall pines. Pass some fancy resort style lodges. Mikaru (westerners) are clearly the bread and butter for many Sherpas living up here, and we pass a few groups guide and several porters carrying three to four full packs and then the Westies bringing up the rear with small day packs. God knows what they have packed, but fair share are definitely yuppie trekkers. We, on the other hand have all our gear in day packs and only two sets of clothes. Still allowance for chocolate/trail mix (Sophie snacks) and full first aid / emergency kit.

There was a prosaic assessment of the relationship as identified from a Sherpa womans perspective in a fantastic autobiography by Jamling Tenzing Norgay ( the son of Tenzing Norgay ) titled "Touching my Fathers Soul". It read; "Mikaru are much like cattle, they are happy wandering about aimlessly all day long... they are constantly getting sick..., and you have to lead them by the nose over difficult terrain or they'll fall off the trail.. But if you feed them well, they'll produce a lot of fresh milk for you."

At Chumoa we have lunch of fried rice and veg noodle soup at bakery on the higher side of the village. Toilets here are wooden drop toilets using heaped piles of pine needles to cover use. The smell as a result is great and feels clean and earthy. Might install one when we get home.

Check in with Sagarmatha national park officer at the entrance of the park at Jorsale. Beyond which more Mani stoned walls and carving are present...quite common in the area. Paths splitting to circle occasional large boulders into which "Om Mani Padme Hum" (hail to the jewel in the lotus) is carved in large tibetan letters sometimes further highlighted by being painted white. The intention of the stones being to help focus peoples thoughts on buddhist teaching and assist in bringing about a positive state of mind.

Post lunch decision to make Namche Bazaar, we crisscross the river via metal suspension bridges (swiss assisted construction) set high above the river. Unfortunately the path is now following closely by the bank and so we climb stairs to bridge crossings to again descend to the river side.

Many bridges set high, after the bridges were taken out in 1977, when an avalanche off Ama Dablam (6812m) falling into a lake, resulted in a large wall of water heading down the valley. Past Jorsale on the east side of the river we climb higher than previously up a long stairway to a rock outcrop where a huge suspension bridge crosses above the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and the Imja Khola(stream) before becoming the Dudh below. Prayer flags and kata (long cream silk Buddhist scarves) tied to the bridge and flapping wildly in the wind.

Normally views, per our guidebook, of Everest but obscured by misty white cloud sitting low up through the gorge. Steep winding ascent to Top Danda, halfway up the hill to Namche. Until the 1800s this was the Tibetan border. Top referring to a canon, the outpost of Namche, which given the cut valley due to the confluence makes sense. No canon now, but a group of Sherpa women selling oranges (mandarins). Quite a happy go lucky crowd especially given the weather, but we decline the offer instead continuing on and up the well pounded dirt trail to Namche.

The final climb to Namche (3450m) is fine, as the ascent path is continuous rather than short and sharp. Appreciate the opportunity to again ground my heels as we ascend. Sign in at the police post before entering via the Buddhist entrance arch, called a Kani, which is used to cleanse bad spiritual baggage that those entering may bring. Unfortunately it does not diminish the masses of other unnecessary baggage passing through it, albeit on the backs of either porters or donkeys.

Rock paved stairs lead up towards the lodges curled in the tight valley as if in an amphitheater with the stage being a view toward the sheer drop to the river below and Kongde(6187m) mtn on the other side.

The stairway leads past a series of small tin covered sheds in which reside prayer wheels but set up to be water powered by a small stream that follows the path. Lodges sitting on terraced ledges appear huge and quite consistent with a western ski resort, quite a few being two to three if not more floors high. Namche or Nauche as known by the Sherpas is derived from an older name referring to a big dark forest which is not much in evidence in the bowl of the valley with no pines clearly visible other then high on the slopes and then small.

Pass again a range of bakeries, cyber cafes and equipment stores before concentrating on lodging options. We approach a few but similar to Annapurna, same pricing structure and common room layout making comparison difficult. Again value is hidden generally in the menu and dependent upon food quality and quantity for price. Hot showers 300rup pp extra on top of room rate. Battery recharging 100rup per hr. Eat main meals elsewhere and risk tripling of the room rate.Internet use per min 10rup. When converted not expensive, but when you have been traveling in Nepal or India for a while feels initially very expensive, until you take into account where you are.

Settle on the pine and rock constructed Camp Debase up the hill slightly from the main bazaar on staircase leading towards Tengboche. Share lodge with a group traveling with Intrepid (run locally by Himalayan encounters) who are heading to Base camp. Has all the feel of a mini everest expedition which feels a little overplayed given the quality of the tracks and the tea house trekking experience. Altitude sickness is still a real possibility however so park initial assessment, at least for time being. Drop off to bed early post good meal of Dal Bhaat, exhausted following combination of early morning, change of scene, walk and altitude.

Hungry like a wolf (Monday 7 March 2011)

Some days you hit the streets around Thamel and you feel like a bit of fresh meat attracting the flies. Varied in your face queries like, "something", "taxi", "have a look maam", "good bananas", "tiger balm" etc driving you slowly nuts. If coming at the wrong moment it is tempting to give the finger but that is considered really bad form here. Plus losing your temper which reflects worse on the one losing it.

Ignore the generally quite humorous young guys with the rickshaws and the duck like horns, made from old plastic bottles with a kids horn taped to the end. Just giving a flat shaking of the hand palm to the ground to signify nope.

Grab a fruit smoothie from Just juice and shakes which I can recommend, especially when the power is on. Head over to the Kathmandu Guest House where the Yak Attack is to start today. A small crowd of mixed nepalis and westerners getting their bike gear together and getting syked for the next few days of racing through the Himalaya. The race gathering here but then rolling as a group across to Bhaktapur where the race really begins up into the Shivapuri Wildlife reserve. The race works its way across via Gorkha then around the Annapurna Circuit and into Pokhara. Maybe next year.

Grab some pastries from Mandaps, where after 8.30pm pastries and bread are half price, bargain.

Listen to a band wandering the streets across from the Hotel whilst typing. Pack. Chill out for the rest of the afternoon in preparation for flying across to Lukla to tomorrow. Will be a definite change of scene, nice to also getaway from the smog.

Relocate our gear within the hotel for storage and then to the Funky Buddha for last meal in Kathmandu for a little while.

Shake, rattle and roll (Sunday 6 March 2011)

Out onto the streets late by the time we got our bike gear together. Cycling out the gate at 10.30 am heading towards towards Balaju and the corner of Nagarjun Forest Reserve (also known as Queen's forest). The river no prettier North of the city.

Spot a dirt road after passing through the middle of town. A little climbing and then we were riding alongside a brick wall which appeared to follow the edge of the park around. Pass through an unlocked metal gate and get yes and a no in regard to cycling on. Take the yes as a good sign and carry the bikes through the hole in the brick wall. Path from the wall opened up leading to the fire road marked on the map. Further up come to the Raniban check post which looks like we are entering a military facility. The second guy however raises the boom gate so that we can continue through. Told to be out of the park by 4.30pm, which is no problem as two foreigners were murdered in here back in 2005 when hiking.

The cycling up was great climbing from 1340 to 2095mtrs. The majority of the way we encountered no other people, which is probably the longest time since landing in Delhi, on a fire trail style road with ferns and tree cover for the majority of the climb.

At the junction head right, the road which has been okay climbing through the woods now swings to the far side of the ridge and seems to make up for lost time with a few steeper rocky pinches. The view however through the trees to the north is now lined with snow capped mountains.

Up a final climb which swings around the base of a Buddhist temple (Padmasambhava) sitting on the knoll and through a forest of thousands of prayer flags streaming in the wind. A few mini buses with groups of families and Buddhist monks enjoying the sunshine and the clear skies.

The view from the top is awesome. Not just the Eastern Himalaya on the skyline but also the valley itself with a 300 degree view following the view all the way across to Bhaktapur, South past Patan and North to the Shivapuri watershed and wildlife reserve.

We listen to Buddhist chanting led by a monk on the temples verandah behind the view of the valley.

An older couple offering us grapes and sweets. Soph has a chat and identifies that the husband is 83 and the wife 79, both in great form and with friendly, welcoming faces.

A middle aged man identifies for us where everest is saying that his home village is very close to the mountain.


The descent back down was a killer. Not because of challenging cycling but the rocks. Our first challenge was to get around one of the minibuses that had just started the descent, the bikes traveling much quicker. Between the small, rough road and the unpredictable belching smog bus it took a while to find a section rough enough that we could squeeze around the side before the driver accelerated or turned again. Past one then another this time a Landcruiser. Same deal, but slightly smaller which made it easier.

Picking a clear line through the rocks on the way down giving a smooth continuous roll was impossible. Descent was still fast but jarring pretty much all the way, with butt hanging off the end of the bike and finger continuously feathering the brakes. Finally make it back to the post where again we are let through ok. Back through the hole in the wall, but the gate had been padlocked. Soph over the 2mtr gate first then the bikes and finally we were back out. However down a sweeping bend and I score a pinch flat. Repair pushing us well past our meeting time with Anja and Tom.

From Kathmandu, Nepal. March 2011

Kathmandu, Nepal. March 2011