Day 7 - Gokyo
Wake early as groups have set wake up routine of 4.30am here to then hike up to Gokyo Ri (5357m) just across from the lodges past the ice lake where view of Everest or Chomolungma as known by the Sherpas.
Once they have gone we fall back to sleep until 6.45am. Plan for today to follow moraine wall as far along the valley as possible hoping to pass Scoundrels View (commented best viewpoint of Everest without requiring climbing) to the fifth lake and maybe then onto Cho Oyu Base Camp further up the valley.
We climb the ridge same as yesterday afternoon but today, after the snow yesterday, the sky is cloudless dark blue and sunny. The moraine wall we find is far from a continuous lip. We therefore climb and fall as we head North. We chose this path instead of the valley floor in order to find a walking section hopefully without deep snow drifts, though every drop on the moraine heading north is on the leeward side resulting in a build up of light powdered snow. We try where we can to follow previous compressions from a solo walker to reduce sinking up to our knees.
Success varying, not so concerning in boots, but Sophs joggers are not exactly cut out for snow wandering. The occasional drop also making the mind wonder where you will touch base rock, especially on the high side of the lip. No cornices that we notice, but you read enough stories. The view along the valley is superb and although tiring the moraine height gives a great perspective across the valley floor to Gokyo Ri on the left and moraine ablation on right. At the end of the valley the towering Cho Oyu is prominent.
After an hour of walking, rock hopping, winding and trying to avoid snow drifts, past Gokyo Ri we spot the fourth lake...no surprise also iced over. Smaller than the third lake and wedged in valley between Gokyo Ri and the Nameless Towers (Donag Tse).
Decide to push on for another two hours only due to the slow progress along the wall. Passed rock cairn memorial of Korean climber with bronze plaque. View of Nameless Towers (the Finger) bringing confidence of our ability to trek up as it appears a rolling ridge leading up and to the right before the true sharp peaks (towers or finger) further towards to Cho Oyu.
Climbing it will have to be left to another day, as we push on towards Scoundrels View. Finally we ascend the rocky ridge and sit with fantastic view around towards Everest. Blue green craggy glacier sitting below rock wall versus the rock covered glacier in the foreground.
The weather starts to turn as we sit on semi protected rocks and stock up on mountain mix. Sunglasses essential as the glare increases at the same time as the wind chill factor.
With wind proof hoods up we decide to return to the lodge the same way as approach rather than down onto the valley floor. On the way back the pockets of glacial melt are more evident among the rock fields below. We listen to the crackles and drips noticeable from this height.
Drop back down to the lodge at 2pm not totally buggered but first solid day since walk to Namche. Quiet afternoon drying out shoes, socks and pants whilst considering options for tomorrow. Lodge filled with another group here to do Goyko Ri so no doubt another early morning wakeup!
Wake early as groups have set wake up routine of 4.30am here to then hike up to Gokyo Ri (5357m) just across from the lodges past the ice lake where view of Everest or Chomolungma as known by the Sherpas.
Once they have gone we fall back to sleep until 6.45am. Plan for today to follow moraine wall as far along the valley as possible hoping to pass Scoundrels View (commented best viewpoint of Everest without requiring climbing) to the fifth lake and maybe then onto Cho Oyu Base Camp further up the valley.
We climb the ridge same as yesterday afternoon but today, after the snow yesterday, the sky is cloudless dark blue and sunny. The moraine wall we find is far from a continuous lip. We therefore climb and fall as we head North. We chose this path instead of the valley floor in order to find a walking section hopefully without deep snow drifts, though every drop on the moraine heading north is on the leeward side resulting in a build up of light powdered snow. We try where we can to follow previous compressions from a solo walker to reduce sinking up to our knees.
Success varying, not so concerning in boots, but Sophs joggers are not exactly cut out for snow wandering. The occasional drop also making the mind wonder where you will touch base rock, especially on the high side of the lip. No cornices that we notice, but you read enough stories. The view along the valley is superb and although tiring the moraine height gives a great perspective across the valley floor to Gokyo Ri on the left and moraine ablation on right. At the end of the valley the towering Cho Oyu is prominent.
After an hour of walking, rock hopping, winding and trying to avoid snow drifts, past Gokyo Ri we spot the fourth lake...no surprise also iced over. Smaller than the third lake and wedged in valley between Gokyo Ri and the Nameless Towers (Donag Tse).
Decide to push on for another two hours only due to the slow progress along the wall. Passed rock cairn memorial of Korean climber with bronze plaque. View of Nameless Towers (the Finger) bringing confidence of our ability to trek up as it appears a rolling ridge leading up and to the right before the true sharp peaks (towers or finger) further towards to Cho Oyu.
Climbing it will have to be left to another day, as we push on towards Scoundrels View. Finally we ascend the rocky ridge and sit with fantastic view around towards Everest. Blue green craggy glacier sitting below rock wall versus the rock covered glacier in the foreground.
The weather starts to turn as we sit on semi protected rocks and stock up on mountain mix. Sunglasses essential as the glare increases at the same time as the wind chill factor.
With wind proof hoods up we decide to return to the lodge the same way as approach rather than down onto the valley floor. On the way back the pockets of glacial melt are more evident among the rock fields below. We listen to the crackles and drips noticeable from this height.
Drop back down to the lodge at 2pm not totally buggered but first solid day since walk to Namche. Quiet afternoon drying out shoes, socks and pants whilst considering options for tomorrow. Lodge filled with another group here to do Goyko Ri so no doubt another early morning wakeup!
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