Northfield cafe for breakfast. Coffee insipid, but breakfast otherwise ok. Can't stand places that state prices in menus exclusive of VAT and service charge.
Across to Dawn to Dusk workshop and meet first Sonam then Tom and Anja. The bikes feel great as we take them for a quick ride in the alleyway, smooth and changes fluid. Sonam lends us his Biking around the Kathmandu valley map (published by Nepa Maps) to assist our riding across to Bodhnath.
We set off fine passing across the front of the Narayan Hiti palace (tridevi Marg) prior to what should have been a quick confirmation of direction at a petrol station in Naxal. Unfortunately either the police officer located there was unable to read English or the map confused him as he sent us up through Baluwatar then Maharajgunj and the Ring Road. In effect sending us North to come East rather then just straight East. Subsequent questioning of various people identified that less people recognised the name Bodhnath then the suburb Bouddha. Further my direction questioning skills in Nepalese need significant improvement.
Eventually we made it to the ring road Tom leading the crew through the dense traffic with confidence which only comes from riding through as many countries I guess as he has. Circling around the busy Ring Road we started to climb up the hill towards Chabahil and a major bus stand by the traffic that we had to dodge through. Unfortunately lost sight of the girls climbing up as dodging through buses pulling out unexpectedly makes it difficult to look over your shoulder. When we reached the top and looked back, we could only see cars. Five minutes later Soph and Anja came walking into view. Thankfully it turned out that Anja's chain had broken. Given the hustling traffic this was a insignificant issue that Tom resolved in under five minutes.
From Chabahil we turned left towards Bouddha, passing the Hyatt and looking for the Stupa which I thought the map showed on the right. (subsequently found that the aged map had the world heritage symbol on the right, but the stupa icon on the left hidden by age creases on the map) Pass plenty of prayer flags and places named incorporating stupa, but nothing jumping out. We therefore cycled through Bouddha through to Jorpati. Realising that we had passed the Stupa somewhere in the past Km we turned around and cycled back along the main street. I mean this is a world heritage stupa, surely it is huge.
In the centre of town a procession passed with a group of monks carrying a housed statue and then a long chain of people carrying above their heads a massive white silk sash. Tom checks a couple of times and people repeat that the temple is on the opposite side of the road. Rolling along Soph spots the first sign of a stupa and Tom swings across to a narrow angled alleyway which leads into the square and there, a massive white washed gold topped stupa gleaming in the sun with eyes staring out. Hidden behind a ringed guard of four storey buildings, which though making it difficult to spot imbues the courtyard also with a noise block against the relentless traffic and daily life out on the road.
Tom does a masterly job of creating a bike leanto with the four bikes to the side of the main circular path. The sun gleaming off the white curved structure in the huge courtyard is warm and refreshing. The structures around the outside facing in a mixture of hotels, restaurants, gift stores, thanka art and gompas. Given the size fewer people observing religious aspect versus general touristy visitors. A few pilgrims obviously also seeing the sites here in Kathmandu for Shivaratri (or night of Shiva) tomorrow when the Holy Hindus religious site Pashupatinath is flocked with an estimated 600,000 visitors from Nepal and India.
Take lunch at the Saturday cafe having relocated from a well overpriced rooftop cafe on the opposite side of the courtyard. The waiter even offering "good price" if we stayed. Saturday cafe good with strong coffee and a little less icky touristy then the other offerings. Clear out having revolved three times around the courtyard.
Back on the main road this time heading back towards the Ring Rd we take the first left which is relatively straight through a couple of blocks then through the Gaurighat Sattal (Gauri being another name for Parvati, who is said to have bathed at the Gauri ghat) over a small bridge, a little hillock and down along past the Octagonal plinths used for ceremonial bathing to our left. The Sacred (and stinky) Bagmati doing a curved f shape through the site with us cycling in alongside the top. Watch some cows fording the river a little further up and a guy peeing on a wall within a couple of meters of the meagre flow. How you could still consider bathing in the river beats me, it is now a polluted pus of a river. This is one of those paradoxes of the Indian subcontinent, that you can have a sacred river into which your garbage is dumped daily. Potentially you come out of the river all tingly but for all the wrong reasons.
Fork out 500rup pp for entry into the Area, funds, per brochure and various signs, being invested into the conservation of the area by the Pashupati Area Development Trust. It is a difficult ask in some ways as, as a non Hindu you are not allowed to enter the two most important temples on the site. Still this is a world heritage site and we have greater capacity to assist the maintenance. I just wish some of the funds were spent on the river.
Leave the bikes locked outside of the impressive Ticket office housed in a Newarri building near the Guheshwori car park. Pass through a gate to the side of the large Guhmeshwari (also spelt Guheshwori) temple. Dedicated to Parvati in her manifestation as Bhaghavati. This is the second most important religious and cultural temple in the area. It is an unusual one (to a non Hindu) as the name flows from Guhya meaning vagina and ishwari or goddess. In one of the ancient texts Parvati is said to have burst into flames following Shiva being insulted by her father. Shiva in great sadness carried her burnt body around and this is where said female anatomy part was said to have fallen. Interesting..
One not so nice aspect is that the story is believed to also be the backing for the practice of sita, where a wife on the death and subsequent cremation of her husband was expected to throw herself onto the burning pyre also. Thankfully this practice was outlawed in the 1920s during the Rana period.
Pass through the side gate alongside the temple as the main gate leading through the temple is off limits to non Hindus. The stairs climb up onto the hillside and the shikhara styled Gorakhnath temple ontop. Best known to non hindu as the yogi inventor of Hatha yoga. The temple is said to house one of the yogis footprints. The stairway runs alongside a fenced deer park on the top of the metal spoked wire in two places however are the remains of still bright saris. Not sure whether as the result of a monkey attack ( there are some frisky evil looking suckers roaming around) or wind.
Past the temple near which a serious religious discussion appears to be underway with a small crowd we gain the attention of two small babu (little boys) who ask for 200rup. Tempted to kick one in the shins but resolved to non violence, laugh and continue for the next five minutes to tell them no babu as we wander on. Finally we are dropped for better candidates and we move on dropping down the other side of the hill along another long staircase towards the Bagmati again, the ghats and the main Shiva temple.
Because of the festival tomorrow the sides of the staircase leading down are full of camping sadhus. I have not seen as many people looking so stoned ever and I have hung out in Nimbin quite a bit. More dreadlocks then Bob Marley and plenty of orange robes. A few in loincloth looking like they had coated themselves in white ash, others with varying tika patterns many of which corresponding with the Shiva pattern of horizontal lines running parallel to each other on the forehead.
Prior to coming had read stories in the Kathmandu times about a police crackdown on sadhus selling hash (charas/marijuana) to visitors. Hashish use being illegal since 1973. Sadhus use seems to be overlooked as it is considered a gift of Shiva to assist in dealing with the pain encountered as part of being a sadhus. The trade though attracting some recent publicised ire as concerns regarding youth drug use increasing.
The crowd itself was continuous but not the press of humanity expected for tomorrow. In addition to the sadhus, medically incapacitated, elderly and malformed pilgrims had also come in numbers setting themselves up on the stairs themselves and further alongside the paths in the complex. Most with begging bowls out. Once on the flat we pass across a small bridge crossing the river and up through the throng to the Jhankeshwori Chowk were we turned across to the western entrance to the side of the Mahashnan temple.
Choose to turn around as the path is lined on each side by aforementioned pilgrims and the nearby speaker system is pumping out temple music. Choose instead to walk back towards the West gate (Pachchhim Dhoka) through which one can see the golden (shiny bronze) backside of a huge seated Bull (being Shiva's Nandi) facing the main Hindu temple, the Pashupati temple. Pashupati is Shiva's manifestation as the Lord of the Beasts. The current pagoda style temple having been significantly renovated by a Malla king in 1696 but evidence of previous temples going back to the 4th century. This temple being the second off limits even into the courtyard to non Hindus.
Anja and I found this out when enquiring with the guard at the entrance whether we could go in. He just asked if we were Hindu, to which we identified no. It raises the question though of what makes one a particular faith. In Christian faiths one is baptized Christian but subsequent conversion to alternate faiths is on personal choice. I know some Hindus follow a Samskara (rite of passage) but not sure whether a standard initiation process or whether a set level of pre knowledge required, but it is possible that one therefore chooses to self exclude. Given that faith is an invisible aspect it is difficult to differentiate, excluding in actions.
Chose instead to climb a small set of stairs up to the Rudragadeshwor area where can see over the wall into the Shiva temple below. On walking across the open paved yard pass a pale cow that appears to have snuffed too much tika resting in the shade near the "use me" bin. Speak with a well dressed Nepali gentlemen about Maha Shivaratri before heading down into the masses again and back across to the river side. Inspect the temples one of which is dedicated to Kali whilst watching small boys wading through the water. Read later that boys fish here for coins thrown into the river for blessing.
On the other side of the bridge watch a cremation, as they occur 24hrs a day here. Several ghats are in various stages of the process. Although the process could seem morbid to those in the west, the public ceremony is one of great symbolism to the Hindu. This is the final Samskara where bodies move to their final resting place. The process involves the dead persons family with the eldest son lighting the taper which commences the cremation process. The bound body is rested upon pyre of logs into which ghee is used to assist the fire. The face is left uncovered. Marigolds appear to generally be spread around and over the body. Whilst being covered in smoke deal with an older jewelry tout who is quite nice but difficult to successfully decline. Finally dodge only to see her move onto Anja.
Back across the bridge and past the Shree Ram Mandir before turning across onto the white terraced landing overlooking the river on which a long line of same, but different Shiva temples sit. All aligned so that you can look through one all the way to the end temple. Some sadhus lounging inside. Also take a look across to the river cutting further to the north where yogis caves have been setup. One cane and blue roofed verandah making it look more like a bar rather then a place of meditation or quiet contemplation.
Back to the stairs and up, this time spotting an aged sadhus who is sitting cross legged and appears to be levitating above the ground. On closer inspection sitting cross legged in a swing from a bamboo frame, maybe the smoke is getting to me. Decline several offers to catch up on the goss with friendly sadhus or alternatively receive some good luck via further tika, or the sprinkling of crushed Marigolds, the pleasure of which you pay for.
At the top of the stairs head east away from the path on which we entered past many more Shiva temples (over fifty or so) to Vishwarup temple inside the central courtyard being a Mughal styled (onion dome) temple, which again we are unable to enter.
Back out cutting a track through the varied smaller temples back to the main path heading north. Some of the monkeys around here looking very skanky with missing hair and scabby butts. Big ones too, so reduce down eye contact as one attacks another to our right. Time to go. Pass the deer park again, this time spotting deer. Difficult to see any significant pasture though. Deer located here as Shiva is believed to have once frolicked here in the form of a golden deer.
Unlock the bikes and cycle a much more direct route head dead West and crossing the front of the Royal Palace through back into Thamel. To the Yak, where Tom and Anja share a Tibetan warm beer. Served in a wooden cask like deep cup and refill via a super sized blue thermos, it apparently got better after the first two refills. Have a bit of a theology discussion which is unsurprising given the places visited today and the different practices from Hindus being often in your face versus the more chilled out Buddhists.
On to the New Orleans cafe where we grab cocktails whilst listening to some great local music which is not delivered in a touristy way. The wooden flute being a standout, though anytime you see a siddha being played it is impressive.
Across to Dawn to Dusk workshop and meet first Sonam then Tom and Anja. The bikes feel great as we take them for a quick ride in the alleyway, smooth and changes fluid. Sonam lends us his Biking around the Kathmandu valley map (published by Nepa Maps) to assist our riding across to Bodhnath.
We set off fine passing across the front of the Narayan Hiti palace (tridevi Marg) prior to what should have been a quick confirmation of direction at a petrol station in Naxal. Unfortunately either the police officer located there was unable to read English or the map confused him as he sent us up through Baluwatar then Maharajgunj and the Ring Road. In effect sending us North to come East rather then just straight East. Subsequent questioning of various people identified that less people recognised the name Bodhnath then the suburb Bouddha. Further my direction questioning skills in Nepalese need significant improvement.
Eventually we made it to the ring road Tom leading the crew through the dense traffic with confidence which only comes from riding through as many countries I guess as he has. Circling around the busy Ring Road we started to climb up the hill towards Chabahil and a major bus stand by the traffic that we had to dodge through. Unfortunately lost sight of the girls climbing up as dodging through buses pulling out unexpectedly makes it difficult to look over your shoulder. When we reached the top and looked back, we could only see cars. Five minutes later Soph and Anja came walking into view. Thankfully it turned out that Anja's chain had broken. Given the hustling traffic this was a insignificant issue that Tom resolved in under five minutes.
From Chabahil we turned left towards Bouddha, passing the Hyatt and looking for the Stupa which I thought the map showed on the right. (subsequently found that the aged map had the world heritage symbol on the right, but the stupa icon on the left hidden by age creases on the map) Pass plenty of prayer flags and places named incorporating stupa, but nothing jumping out. We therefore cycled through Bouddha through to Jorpati. Realising that we had passed the Stupa somewhere in the past Km we turned around and cycled back along the main street. I mean this is a world heritage stupa, surely it is huge.
In the centre of town a procession passed with a group of monks carrying a housed statue and then a long chain of people carrying above their heads a massive white silk sash. Tom checks a couple of times and people repeat that the temple is on the opposite side of the road. Rolling along Soph spots the first sign of a stupa and Tom swings across to a narrow angled alleyway which leads into the square and there, a massive white washed gold topped stupa gleaming in the sun with eyes staring out. Hidden behind a ringed guard of four storey buildings, which though making it difficult to spot imbues the courtyard also with a noise block against the relentless traffic and daily life out on the road.
Tom does a masterly job of creating a bike leanto with the four bikes to the side of the main circular path. The sun gleaming off the white curved structure in the huge courtyard is warm and refreshing. The structures around the outside facing in a mixture of hotels, restaurants, gift stores, thanka art and gompas. Given the size fewer people observing religious aspect versus general touristy visitors. A few pilgrims obviously also seeing the sites here in Kathmandu for Shivaratri (or night of Shiva) tomorrow when the Holy Hindus religious site Pashupatinath is flocked with an estimated 600,000 visitors from Nepal and India.
Take lunch at the Saturday cafe having relocated from a well overpriced rooftop cafe on the opposite side of the courtyard. The waiter even offering "good price" if we stayed. Saturday cafe good with strong coffee and a little less icky touristy then the other offerings. Clear out having revolved three times around the courtyard.
Back on the main road this time heading back towards the Ring Rd we take the first left which is relatively straight through a couple of blocks then through the Gaurighat Sattal (Gauri being another name for Parvati, who is said to have bathed at the Gauri ghat) over a small bridge, a little hillock and down along past the Octagonal plinths used for ceremonial bathing to our left. The Sacred (and stinky) Bagmati doing a curved f shape through the site with us cycling in alongside the top. Watch some cows fording the river a little further up and a guy peeing on a wall within a couple of meters of the meagre flow. How you could still consider bathing in the river beats me, it is now a polluted pus of a river. This is one of those paradoxes of the Indian subcontinent, that you can have a sacred river into which your garbage is dumped daily. Potentially you come out of the river all tingly but for all the wrong reasons.
Fork out 500rup pp for entry into the Area, funds, per brochure and various signs, being invested into the conservation of the area by the Pashupati Area Development Trust. It is a difficult ask in some ways as, as a non Hindu you are not allowed to enter the two most important temples on the site. Still this is a world heritage site and we have greater capacity to assist the maintenance. I just wish some of the funds were spent on the river.
Leave the bikes locked outside of the impressive Ticket office housed in a Newarri building near the Guheshwori car park. Pass through a gate to the side of the large Guhmeshwari (also spelt Guheshwori) temple. Dedicated to Parvati in her manifestation as Bhaghavati. This is the second most important religious and cultural temple in the area. It is an unusual one (to a non Hindu) as the name flows from Guhya meaning vagina and ishwari or goddess. In one of the ancient texts Parvati is said to have burst into flames following Shiva being insulted by her father. Shiva in great sadness carried her burnt body around and this is where said female anatomy part was said to have fallen. Interesting..
One not so nice aspect is that the story is believed to also be the backing for the practice of sita, where a wife on the death and subsequent cremation of her husband was expected to throw herself onto the burning pyre also. Thankfully this practice was outlawed in the 1920s during the Rana period.
Pass through the side gate alongside the temple as the main gate leading through the temple is off limits to non Hindus. The stairs climb up onto the hillside and the shikhara styled Gorakhnath temple ontop. Best known to non hindu as the yogi inventor of Hatha yoga. The temple is said to house one of the yogis footprints. The stairway runs alongside a fenced deer park on the top of the metal spoked wire in two places however are the remains of still bright saris. Not sure whether as the result of a monkey attack ( there are some frisky evil looking suckers roaming around) or wind.
 |
Past the temple near which a serious religious discussion appears to be underway with a small crowd we gain the attention of two small babu (little boys) who ask for 200rup. Tempted to kick one in the shins but resolved to non violence, laugh and continue for the next five minutes to tell them no babu as we wander on. Finally we are dropped for better candidates and we move on dropping down the other side of the hill along another long staircase towards the Bagmati again, the ghats and the main Shiva temple.
Because of the festival tomorrow the sides of the staircase leading down are full of camping sadhus. I have not seen as many people looking so stoned ever and I have hung out in Nimbin quite a bit. More dreadlocks then Bob Marley and plenty of orange robes. A few in loincloth looking like they had coated themselves in white ash, others with varying tika patterns many of which corresponding with the Shiva pattern of horizontal lines running parallel to each other on the forehead.
Prior to coming had read stories in the Kathmandu times about a police crackdown on sadhus selling hash (charas/marijuana) to visitors. Hashish use being illegal since 1973. Sadhus use seems to be overlooked as it is considered a gift of Shiva to assist in dealing with the pain encountered as part of being a sadhus. The trade though attracting some recent publicised ire as concerns regarding youth drug use increasing.
The crowd itself was continuous but not the press of humanity expected for tomorrow. In addition to the sadhus, medically incapacitated, elderly and malformed pilgrims had also come in numbers setting themselves up on the stairs themselves and further alongside the paths in the complex. Most with begging bowls out. Once on the flat we pass across a small bridge crossing the river and up through the throng to the Jhankeshwori Chowk were we turned across to the western entrance to the side of the Mahashnan temple.
Choose to turn around as the path is lined on each side by aforementioned pilgrims and the nearby speaker system is pumping out temple music. Choose instead to walk back towards the West gate (Pachchhim Dhoka) through which one can see the golden (shiny bronze) backside of a huge seated Bull (being Shiva's Nandi) facing the main Hindu temple, the Pashupati temple. Pashupati is Shiva's manifestation as the Lord of the Beasts. The current pagoda style temple having been significantly renovated by a Malla king in 1696 but evidence of previous temples going back to the 4th century. This temple being the second off limits even into the courtyard to non Hindus.
Anja and I found this out when enquiring with the guard at the entrance whether we could go in. He just asked if we were Hindu, to which we identified no. It raises the question though of what makes one a particular faith. In Christian faiths one is baptized Christian but subsequent conversion to alternate faiths is on personal choice. I know some Hindus follow a Samskara (rite of passage) but not sure whether a standard initiation process or whether a set level of pre knowledge required, but it is possible that one therefore chooses to self exclude. Given that faith is an invisible aspect it is difficult to differentiate, excluding in actions.
Chose instead to climb a small set of stairs up to the Rudragadeshwor area where can see over the wall into the Shiva temple below. On walking across the open paved yard pass a pale cow that appears to have snuffed too much tika resting in the shade near the "use me" bin. Speak with a well dressed Nepali gentlemen about Maha Shivaratri before heading down into the masses again and back across to the river side. Inspect the temples one of which is dedicated to Kali whilst watching small boys wading through the water. Read later that boys fish here for coins thrown into the river for blessing.
On the other side of the bridge watch a cremation, as they occur 24hrs a day here. Several ghats are in various stages of the process. Although the process could seem morbid to those in the west, the public ceremony is one of great symbolism to the Hindu. This is the final Samskara where bodies move to their final resting place. The process involves the dead persons family with the eldest son lighting the taper which commences the cremation process. The bound body is rested upon pyre of logs into which ghee is used to assist the fire. The face is left uncovered. Marigolds appear to generally be spread around and over the body. Whilst being covered in smoke deal with an older jewelry tout who is quite nice but difficult to successfully decline. Finally dodge only to see her move onto Anja.
Back across the bridge and past the Shree Ram Mandir before turning across onto the white terraced landing overlooking the river on which a long line of same, but different Shiva temples sit. All aligned so that you can look through one all the way to the end temple. Some sadhus lounging inside. Also take a look across to the river cutting further to the north where yogis caves have been setup. One cane and blue roofed verandah making it look more like a bar rather then a place of meditation or quiet contemplation.
Back to the stairs and up, this time spotting an aged sadhus who is sitting cross legged and appears to be levitating above the ground. On closer inspection sitting cross legged in a swing from a bamboo frame, maybe the smoke is getting to me. Decline several offers to catch up on the goss with friendly sadhus or alternatively receive some good luck via further tika, or the sprinkling of crushed Marigolds, the pleasure of which you pay for.
At the top of the stairs head east away from the path on which we entered past many more Shiva temples (over fifty or so) to Vishwarup temple inside the central courtyard being a Mughal styled (onion dome) temple, which again we are unable to enter.
Back out cutting a track through the varied smaller temples back to the main path heading north. Some of the monkeys around here looking very skanky with missing hair and scabby butts. Big ones too, so reduce down eye contact as one attacks another to our right. Time to go. Pass the deer park again, this time spotting deer. Difficult to see any significant pasture though. Deer located here as Shiva is believed to have once frolicked here in the form of a golden deer.
Unlock the bikes and cycle a much more direct route head dead West and crossing the front of the Royal Palace through back into Thamel. To the Yak, where Tom and Anja share a Tibetan warm beer. Served in a wooden cask like deep cup and refill via a super sized blue thermos, it apparently got better after the first two refills. Have a bit of a theology discussion which is unsurprising given the places visited today and the different practices from Hindus being often in your face versus the more chilled out Buddhists.
On to the New Orleans cafe where we grab cocktails whilst listening to some great local music which is not delivered in a touristy way. The wooden flute being a standout, though anytime you see a siddha being played it is impressive.
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