After getting back from Pokhara time merged as we attempted to update blogs, overcome photo upload issues and further our knowledge of local culture. Pokhara is a really easy expat city.
The city itself is easy to navigate with broad streets, wide identifiable chowks and though some multiple storied buildings and hotels, constant visual navigation guides, such as the World peace stupa, the airport and Sarangkot. The environment though not clean, is by Indian sub continent standards quite good, though you may on passing any of the barred trash trap creeks think otherwise. The lake and the surrounding hills are refreshingly serene especially when the lite smog is either washed or blown away.
Mountain bike wise there is plenty happening in Pokhara, with the annual Yak Attack in March seeing competitors race the Annapurna Circuit in a series of day stage races. With the town especially Lakeside oozing tourism, it is also not suprising that Mountain bike stores and tours are starting to self populate. There are at least four places around town that deal with Trek, Commencal,Giant brands among others. Most hard tail though we did see a few dualies. Brake wise a mixture of caliper and disk. Most componentry that we saw was Shimano rather than Sram but also one or two other unknowns. Still it was a grateful shock to see such brands and stores in evidence, having not had the opportunity to see in India at Firefox or similar in the state cities. The friendliest and probably the least fleecing of the options appeared to be Raniban Mountain Bikes located in the alleyway running perpendicular to the small Shiva temple South Lakeside.
We took the opportunity to book Soph's Rocky Mountain in for it's bottom bracket to be replaced just down from Himalayan Frontiers. 5000rup later the guys were good but I would not rate them as great. They swapped out the by now loose bracket and replaced it for a similar Race face part they were able to lay hands on. However they did not appear to service the bike beyond this point. They were handy though and also with good info, like the single trail offering from the Peace Stupa back down to Dam side on the banks of Phewa (Fewa) Tal / Lake.
Whilst Soph was attempting to update the blog, around periods of Load shedding I took some lessons with Prem a part time English and Social Studies teacher who has started a Language school (Cosmic Brontosaurus Language School) of his own at Khahare Bangladi at Lakeside, North of Hallen Chowk. I found the lessons fantastic not just for a structured yet fast insight into basic Nepali but also as Prem was both entertaining and informative. The classroom being a bright bamboo constructed open room with board located in a families garden off the road. The lessons when combined with stove top organic nepali coffee were great.
On the walks around to the lessons and other days it was always an easy eat of bakery fodder (normally identified as German Bakery) from various sights but generally with the same products. Apple strudels, cinnamon danish and chocolate croissants (though chocolate here so so). The best and frequently a hang out was the German Bakery at Damside down from Pardi Bazaar. Coffee was average, but pots of hot lemon, club sandwiches, chocolate cake, apple pie, fudge balls etc were great. Plus the staff were laid back, free wi fi and good supply of books on the cafe's walls.
Pizza was best at the Cafe Concerto, though there were other places we did not get to. The Pokhara Pizza House was definitely cheaper, both having free wifi, but the finish of the Cafe Concerto was better. Plus their Affogato was great, using made in-house ice-cream.
For Chinese we could not go past the Old Lan Hua, great meals at great price and with professional yet relaxed staff. The Buff Blackbean, Pork Kothay, Dragon chicken and oyster greens were great.
Coffee was AM/PM were David one of the nicest guys you will meet in Pokhara together with the beautifully smiley Sima and funnily studious Sabina served great espresso coffee or stovetop if the power was out. Hot chocolate was also very good. We found the lavazza and illy places to be so so and the quality of the cup varied depending upon who served. Plus at 150rup excluding service 10% and VAT 13% a bit steep. It is intriguing those who price heavily and then lump on top. Worth walking out of some.
Breakfast recommendations include Hermans, small bamboo place on the left when heading past Hallen Chowk going North. Run by Husband and Wife the little thatched outside tables looking over the lake are great to watch the weather roll in or just the sunshine on the lake. Great fruit, curd muesli. Laughing Buddha is also great, again family run. Breakfast tibetan bread with honey or Big breakfast. Dinner here was okay.
The New Everest steakhouse up the metal stairs if making up for lost carnivore time was also good and though seemingly expensive, the meals were very hearty.Entertainment of WWF (wrestling) on tv amusingly distracting. It is amazing how many Indians and Nepalis are addicted to this stuff, we have passed many glued to their sets watching the in english dramatized often costumed pouting, posturing and athletic violence.
For books we found the LP places fine, but if you are looking for some local family in site try Lal at Kiwi Book Store across from the park and the Asian paint painted (sunset orange and sand) Peepal and Bunyan trees on the way to Damside. His daughter lives in NZ.
To learn further about Nepal and Nepali customs we wandered by foot over to the Regional Museum which backs onto the Ramighat where the Seti opens up from it's thin gorge approach for a little before squeezing back into it's rocky chasm before the Prithvi Highway crossing. On the far side accessed via either road or suspension bridge the temple and ghat complex where many are cremated at the end of their lives. The museum set back off the road near Naya Bazaar is informative and interesting visually and good value at 30rup. One of the guys who work their also doubles at the Amsterdam Bar at Lakeside and is a fantastic addition bringing the sometimes set displays to life with further information and free unhassled commentary.
The Seti is amazing; during our week we visited the gorge from both ends and in the middle, watching Himalayan eagles flying (and calling) as they appear out of the misty depth of the rocky gorge into the sky. The depth and narrowness of the river powered by water direct from the himalaya is amazing as are the almost squeeze entrances where canyon wide stretches of river 50 to 100mtr wide from eroded bank to bank (though river in winter 3-4mtrs) are forced into a rocky canyon from 1-2mtrs wide. Bridges crossing the chasm are viewing points but also heart breaking dire as the extent of local use for dumping is high.
We had the great opportunity of attending on World Wetlands day a Wetlands photo exhibition out the back of the Nepal Tourism board using prints of local photographer Krishna Mani Baral. His work included some really great artistic prints, but also more importantly focused on the use and misuse of the river systems and wetlands around pokhara. The message was clear to draw attention to practices that required amendment asap. Local school children were circulating through as we left, so hopefully a grassroot change will slowly be actively adopted.
Many times on seeing the garbage and location of it, we have despaired. But again with the exception of the location it also brings to mind the sheer size per populace that we in the west also discard. The main difference being that we manage the collection and disposal better (or it could be argued that we hide it better) rather than the visual generation.
I took the opportunity on a drizzly day to walk across to Green Pastures the once specialist leprosy but now also focused on other kinds of disability and related rehabilitation. Whilst at ABC Soph and I had met Australian intern doctors working here. The centre run by International Nepal fellowship is a Christian mission focused upon serving the Nepali people through health and development work. (www.inf.org) We donated the funds found on the Sanctuary walk to these guys feeling that they were a worthy broad based cause, providing treatment to those who are unable to contribute to the cost of their care.
Another community focused group that we encountered was a group called Development Voyage for Sustainability, which ran a cafe and local handicraft store near Rastra Bank Chowk. These guys also are working on establishing home stays and biodynamic agricultural village based training. Plus they have the best value Internet in Pokhara, when the power is on.
Some of the memorable experiences included being passed by the roving Blanket (doona) repair guys of whom consisted a skilled practitioner carrying a dark woodentool and his apprentices with big hessian bags behind. The craftsman playing the tool like a musical instrument as they walked with a dang dang dang dang dang dang dang (almost like a Gum leaf blowing sound) to draw the attention of potential business. Different from the roving commercial veggie sellers with carts calling their wares as they rolled on pass. Also different from the retail fruit guys with bicycles and wire baskets mounted on the back pannier carrying oranges, grapes and apples. Measurement via portable hanging scales for all bar the bananas which are sold per 12 piece.
The eagle eyed Tibetan or of Tibetan ancestry grandmothers wandering lakeside smiling serenely and carrying black backpacks who would on successful interest from tourist lay out jewelry from the bag. Plenty of character, but best to be nicely avoided unless interested in purchase ofbeads , coral necklaces etc.
We took the opportunity to cycle one day out to the Gompas on the northern side of town to watch a sunset puja (3.30-5pm) prayer session including chanting and horns. By the time however we made Tashi Palkhel and the surrounding Tibetan settlement it was 5.30pm and the chanting etc had packed up for the evening. Unfortunately the stalls staffed by grandmothers (one grandfather) had not and to gentle chastisement I was coerced into buyingbeads , friendship bands and a necklace from each of the ladies, one gentleman prior to departing back to town. To the smiling eyed shaking of head from Soph looking on who was still sitting on her bike getaway.
Interestingly on the way back to lakeside we passed the remains of a protest which had consisted of lines of burning tires perpendicular to north headedtraffic near the Baglung bus stand. By the time we cycled past the smoldering remains of the tires had been pushed into the gutters by the now present police. The lines of soot and rubber char marking the road and still thick on the air. No one in lakeside appeared to have encountered nor known, such is it's separateness from the rest of town. In fact when entering Lakeside there are road side signs on both sides identifying in nepali and english that you are "entering a Tourist area" and that veggie carts are not allowed and motorbike helmets compulsory. Tourism police are stationed nearby.
Taxis passing give one honk to identify their presence and two if they want you to move. Around Lakeside the taxis were predominantly white four door hatch Suzuki or Hyundai versus the old Datsun looking Toyotas on the fringe.
On our last day in Pokhara we watched from Hermans as a storm sat low over the lake with thunder bouncing off the valley walls. Watching the storm was a young deaf boy standing on the levy bank known to many who is a very capable communicator. His constant company being a large furry mountain dog. Following a brief but heavy rain shower we walked back to the hotel passing ladies carrying copper/tin water pitches one arm wrapped below the lip and the bottom balanced on the hip.
Our hotel for the time we spent in Pokhara was the Royal Guest House where we were treated consistently as guests including being treated to home cooked Dal Bhat with the family.
I spent some time also reading local folk and mythology. On recommendation I read Muna Madan a play written by the greatly loved national literary and poet figure, L.P.Devkota. There are many great stanzas in the piece translated into english by Ananda Shrestha. My favorite being;
Oh brothers, sisters you have washed, dirt of the eyes away,
The world we must understand, throw all fears away.
Let us brace ourselves and look, the world in the face,
Let us fly, to the sky, though we be in this place.
What's the use of living, if just to eat and drink?
What is the use, if we don't, of the hereafter think?
We must gaze at Heaven, though on earth we be.
Look not down in sorrow, downcast never be.
The story tells of Madan who leaves Nepal to Tibet in an attempt to gain riches leaving behind a young wife and elderly mother. After the challenge of reaching the country he is eventually successful, but falls sick on the return trip home. He is abandoned by traveling companions but found and revived by a passing Tibetan. Unfortunately before his return, first his mother and then his wife die.
Another favorite, post Madan's rehabilitation and on his leaving to return to Nepal,
The Tibetan says, "It was by chance, that kindness I could show,
Charity seeks no returns, remember us and go.
For our daily bread we toll, nothing free do take,
There's nothing brother you can give, nothing I can take.
"Ke Garne" nepali verbalised can be interpreted as, What can we do? Also "jibon yes-tai ho" interpreted as life such is. So many Nepalis we have met to date have been solid, proud and courteous people. Confronted by difficult circumstances they smile and battle on, move on. I wish them a positive future unmarred by further political indecision and corruption, belief in the future of their country and active sustainable development.
View Pokhara Photo Gallery:
The city itself is easy to navigate with broad streets, wide identifiable chowks and though some multiple storied buildings and hotels, constant visual navigation guides, such as the World peace stupa, the airport and Sarangkot. The environment though not clean, is by Indian sub continent standards quite good, though you may on passing any of the barred trash trap creeks think otherwise. The lake and the surrounding hills are refreshingly serene especially when the lite smog is either washed or blown away.
Mountain bike wise there is plenty happening in Pokhara, with the annual Yak Attack in March seeing competitors race the Annapurna Circuit in a series of day stage races. With the town especially Lakeside oozing tourism, it is also not suprising that Mountain bike stores and tours are starting to self populate. There are at least four places around town that deal with Trek, Commencal,
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Whilst Soph was attempting to update the blog, around periods of Load shedding I took some lessons with Prem a part time English and Social Studies teacher who has started a Language school (Cosmic Brontosaurus Language School) of his own at Khahare Bangladi at Lakeside, North of Hallen Chowk. I found the lessons fantastic not just for a structured yet fast insight into basic Nepali but also as Prem was both entertaining and informative. The classroom being a bright bamboo constructed open room with board located in a families garden off the road. The lessons when combined with stove top organic nepali coffee were great.
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Coffee was AM/PM were David one of the nicest guys you will meet in Pokhara together with the beautifully smiley Sima and funnily studious Sabina served great espresso coffee or stovetop if the power was out. Hot chocolate was also very good. We found the lavazza and illy places to be so so and the quality of the cup varied depending upon who served. Plus at 150rup excluding service 10% and VAT 13% a bit steep. It is intriguing those who price heavily and then lump on top. Worth walking out of some.
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The New Everest steakhouse up the metal stairs if making up for lost carnivore time was also good and though seemingly expensive, the meals were very hearty.
For books we found the LP places fine, but if you are looking for some local family in site try Lal at Kiwi Book Store across from the park and the Asian paint painted (sunset orange and sand) Peepal and Bunyan trees on the way to Damside. His daughter lives in NZ.
To learn further about Nepal and Nepali customs we wandered by foot over to the Regional Museum which backs onto the Ramighat where the Seti opens up from it's thin gorge approach for a little before squeezing back into it's rocky chasm before the Prithvi Highway crossing. On the far side accessed via either road or suspension bridge the temple and ghat complex where many are cremated at the end of their lives. The museum set back off the road near Naya Bazaar is informative and interesting visually and good value at 30rup. One of the guys who work their also doubles at the Amsterdam Bar at Lakeside and is a fantastic addition bringing the sometimes set displays to life with further information and free unhassled commentary.
The Seti is amazing; during our week we visited the gorge from both ends and in the middle, watching Himalayan eagles flying (and calling) as they appear out of the misty depth of the rocky gorge into the sky. The depth and narrowness of the river powered by water direct from the himalaya is amazing as are the almost squeeze entrances where canyon wide stretches of river 50 to 100mtr wide from eroded bank to bank (though river in winter 3-4mtrs) are forced into a rocky canyon from 1-2mtrs wide. Bridges crossing the chasm are viewing points but also heart breaking dire as the extent of local use for dumping is high.
 |
 |
Many times on seeing the garbage and location of it, we have despaired. But again with the exception of the location it also brings to mind the sheer size per populace that we in the west also discard. The main difference being that we manage the collection and disposal better (or it could be argued that we hide it better) rather than the visual generation.
I took the opportunity on a drizzly day to walk across to Green Pastures the once specialist leprosy but now also focused on other kinds of disability and related rehabilitation. Whilst at ABC Soph and I had met Australian intern doctors working here. The centre run by International Nepal fellowship is a Christian mission focused upon serving the Nepali people through health and development work. (www.inf.org) We donated the funds found on the Sanctuary walk to these guys feeling that they were a worthy broad based cause, providing treatment to those who are unable to contribute to the cost of their care.
Another community focused group that we encountered was a group called Development Voyage for Sustainability, which ran a cafe and local handicraft store near Rastra Bank Chowk. These guys also are working on establishing home stays and biodynamic agricultural village based training. Plus they have the best value Internet in Pokhara, when the power is on.
Some of the memorable experiences included being passed by the roving Blanket (doona) repair guys of whom consisted a skilled practitioner carrying a dark wooden
The eagle eyed Tibetan or of Tibetan ancestry grandmothers wandering lakeside smiling serenely and carrying black backpacks who would on successful interest from tourist lay out jewelry from the bag. Plenty of character, but best to be nicely avoided unless interested in purchase of
We took the opportunity to cycle one day out to the Gompas on the northern side of town to watch a sunset puja (3.30-5pm) prayer session including chanting and horns. By the time however we made Tashi Palkhel and the surrounding Tibetan settlement it was 5.30pm and the chanting etc had packed up for the evening. Unfortunately the stalls staffed by grandmothers (one grandfather) had not and to gentle chastisement I was coerced into buying
Interestingly on the way back to lakeside we passed the remains of a protest which had consisted of lines of burning tires perpendicular to north headed
Taxis passing give one honk to identify their presence and two if they want you to move. Around Lakeside the taxis were predominantly white four door hatch Suzuki or Hyundai versus the old Datsun looking Toyotas on the fringe.
On our last day in Pokhara we watched from Hermans as a storm sat low over the lake with thunder bouncing off the valley walls. Watching the storm was a young deaf boy standing on the levy bank known to many who is a very capable communicator. His constant company being a large furry mountain dog. Following a brief but heavy rain shower we walked back to the hotel passing ladies carrying copper/tin water pitches one arm wrapped below the lip and the bottom balanced on the hip.
Our hotel for the time we spent in Pokhara was the Royal Guest House where we were treated consistently as guests including being treated to home cooked Dal Bhat with the family.
 |
Oh brothers, sisters you have washed, dirt of the eyes away,
The world we must understand, throw all fears away.
Let us brace ourselves and look, the world in the face,
Let us fly, to the sky, though we be in this place.
What's the use of living, if just to eat and drink?
What is the use, if we don't, of the hereafter think?
We must gaze at Heaven, though on earth we be.
Look not down in sorrow, downcast never be.
The story tells of Madan who leaves Nepal to Tibet in an attempt to gain riches leaving behind a young wife and elderly mother. After the challenge of reaching the country he is eventually successful, but falls sick on the return trip home. He is abandoned by traveling companions but found and revived by a passing Tibetan. Unfortunately before his return, first his mother and then his wife die.
Another favorite, post Madan's rehabilitation and on his leaving to return to Nepal,
The Tibetan says, "It was by chance, that kindness I could show,
Charity seeks no returns, remember us and go.
For our daily bread we toll, nothing free do take,
There's nothing brother you can give, nothing I can take.
"Ke Garne" nepali verbalised can be interpreted as, What can we do? Also "jibon yes-tai ho" interpreted as life such is. So many Nepalis we have met to date have been solid, proud and courteous people. Confronted by difficult circumstances they smile and battle on, move on. I wish them a positive future unmarred by further political indecision and corruption, belief in the future of their country and active sustainable development.
View Pokhara Photo Gallery:
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| Nepal, Pokhara. February 2011 |
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