Family is up with the first light. We start to arrange ourselves and are just about to get changed when the youngest daughter of the next door neighbor comes and sits in the doorway. Makes any significant progress difficult until the grandmother realises where she has gone and calls her back down stairs. Open the wood barred windows and appreciate the view back across the fields below to the river.
Once as respectable as we will get without a bathroom migrate downstairs and served black tea on the terrace. The grandmother (or mother of our host) has lived alone since her husband died suddenly twenty years ago, the village location being very difficult to obtain medical assistance or evacuation to and so very little was able to be done. As a result somethings that the other villages have she does not, for instance a cow for milk. She is assisted by her family but they all live in other parts of the country.
The next door teacher comes across and reminds us that we are invited to his tea party this morning. From the terrace we step up onto the back retainer wall, walk across a small yard and then are sitting outside their double story house, out front of which is a thin cow and calf. Meet the family if in an abstract kind of way and served milk chiya, whilst answer questions for the teacher on life in Australia.
He identifies that we will have problems until Kolkot 17kms away which he estimates will take two hours by bike, then from Kolkot all our problems will be over.
Say our goodbyes and are assisted with the bikes down to the road.
Cycle back down to the fields and along the flats which does not last long and very soon we are again off the bikes and pushing them up and over very steep diversion roads similar to yesterday. Feel a little broken in psychologically post yesterday but unfortunately so are our muscles. On one section Soph manages to engage the services of a young boy maybe six to assist her push her bike up a km long stretch. By the time I see her and the boy at the top, he is lathered in sweat. We supply some pocket money.
Latter on during another push section, we meet a Nepali engineer whose son, also an engineer lives in Brisbane. His son is flying across in the next week to meet a potential bride, if he likes her then the wedding will happen soon after, if not he will fly back to Australia and return at another time. He wishes us good luck as we cycle on.
Descend into a valley where the rushing grey blue river brushes a sandy beach. Take the opportunity to wash before having to climb back out of the river flats on the far side. Bikes gearing by now not very happy and chains jamming on and off. Buy top up water at the town on the side of the climb, notable for it's field irrigation system, broad beautiful trees and red orange soil.
Final climb up and around another steep road section before dropping down to Kolkot, little more then a dusty road junction town. When we had been visualising a river rafting set off point and more importantly the start of the new completed tarred road. Breakfast of very spicy veg chowmein where all the green was contributed by green chilli, before setting off out of town.
Not far along at a stop go whistle man we were given the go and at the point of accelerating the chain jammed. Had to remove bob, flip the bike and deflate then remove the tire just to be able access and loosen the jam. With road work trucks passing on the side and a range of spectators. Once free, tire inflated and chain spinning,if not smoothly put bob back on and cycled fifteen meters before pushed over to the side of the road again. Go to cycle off and something is wrong with the rear tyre as it is not turning well at all. Remove bob flip bike and notice that the quick release hastily tightened had worked itself free and the bike once angled to the side had tilted the rim and the disk in their housings. By this stage calm was cracking and it was very hard not to tell the world my frustrations. Reset the rim but the brush of the brake pads combined with the dust and grit made the bike sound and feel very unwell.
Eyes scanning for decent road our hoped salvation, we cycled through a side valley water course before turning up along it's left side wall. Back onto actual completed road base but still not tar as we started to climb on a lesser gradient then previous but still steep. Turn a corner past some very encouraging road workers and hallelujah tar. Not only tar but a concrete edged road that visibly switchbacks up the range in front of us. I could have cried but it was bloody hot and so we pushed on humming to ourselves until a small roadside village where we stocked up on cold water. The boy at the store encouraged us to rest until 4pm when the bus would come through. We decline the offer and set off, just us and a few goats sharing a beautiful road with signs acknowledging periodic steep ascents of 100 - 300mtrs. The road even had had pedestrian stairs and underpasses not that they were being used.
Stiff climb up to the visible ridge line before we rounded another bend and commenced another series of climbs up along the new valley side. Forested slopes and a light breeze bringing some relief from both the afternoon sun and the heat of the climb.
The drop at the edge of the road more precipitous yet the bends show no sign of diminishing, nor can we accurately identify where the road will cut through or pass over the ridge. Energy significantly depleted and stops increasing. Soph not that keen to camp following stories of leopards in the hills. Finally cycle up past a police check post and into the ridge town. Attract most of town whilst ordering chiya which is quite peppery, I like pepper but sometimes it makes the dregs taste like egg. Locals confirm it is pretty much all downhill to Sindhuli Bazaar.
Out of town at about 4.40pm and have a slight descent but a few more short pinch climbs before we see our first series of recurring descent signs. Refreshed by the downhill, let the bike take the head and flow through the tight bends rapidly picking up, then loosing speed. Pass two kids on homemade go carts roaring down the far side gutter before pulling over beneath a store at a marked bus stop. Owner comes out and identifies that he does both fooding and lodging.
Having decided to cycle no further we relocate with help our gear to the top of the steps. The lodge, new according to the owner is still under construction but the beds look fine. Dal Bhat served by the owners wife is fantastic as we use our hands to mix it all up. In Nepal locals use their right hand to eat their Bhat, we were even told by one store owner in Kathmandu that it brought him closer to his food, an earthy experience. All it appears to do for me however is to wrinkle and yellow my fingers. I do not obtain the higher existence feeling as described. Settle into bed following dinner and are very quickly asleep after a challenging day.
Once as respectable as we will get without a bathroom migrate downstairs and served black tea on the terrace. The grandmother (or mother of our host) has lived alone since her husband died suddenly twenty years ago, the village location being very difficult to obtain medical assistance or evacuation to and so very little was able to be done. As a result somethings that the other villages have she does not, for instance a cow for milk. She is assisted by her family but they all live in other parts of the country.
The next door teacher comes across and reminds us that we are invited to his tea party this morning. From the terrace we step up onto the back retainer wall, walk across a small yard and then are sitting outside their double story house, out front of which is a thin cow and calf. Meet the family if in an abstract kind of way and served milk chiya, whilst answer questions for the teacher on life in Australia.
He identifies that we will have problems until Kolkot 17kms away which he estimates will take two hours by bike, then from Kolkot all our problems will be over.
Say our goodbyes and are assisted with the bikes down to the road.
Cycle back down to the fields and along the flats which does not last long and very soon we are again off the bikes and pushing them up and over very steep diversion roads similar to yesterday. Feel a little broken in psychologically post yesterday but unfortunately so are our muscles. On one section Soph manages to engage the services of a young boy maybe six to assist her push her bike up a km long stretch. By the time I see her and the boy at the top, he is lathered in sweat. We supply some pocket money.
Latter on during another push section, we meet a Nepali engineer whose son, also an engineer lives in Brisbane. His son is flying across in the next week to meet a potential bride, if he likes her then the wedding will happen soon after, if not he will fly back to Australia and return at another time. He wishes us good luck as we cycle on.
Descend into a valley where the rushing grey blue river brushes a sandy beach. Take the opportunity to wash before having to climb back out of the river flats on the far side. Bikes gearing by now not very happy and chains jamming on and off. Buy top up water at the town on the side of the climb, notable for it's field irrigation system, broad beautiful trees and red orange soil.
Final climb up and around another steep road section before dropping down to Kolkot, little more then a dusty road junction town. When we had been visualising a river rafting set off point and more importantly the start of the new completed tarred road. Breakfast of very spicy veg chowmein where all the green was contributed by green chilli, before setting off out of town.
Not far along at a stop go whistle man we were given the go and at the point of accelerating the chain jammed. Had to remove bob, flip the bike and deflate then remove the tire just to be able access and loosen the jam. With road work trucks passing on the side and a range of spectators. Once free, tire inflated and chain spinning,if not smoothly put bob back on and cycled fifteen meters before pushed over to the side of the road again. Go to cycle off and something is wrong with the rear tyre as it is not turning well at all. Remove bob flip bike and notice that the quick release hastily tightened had worked itself free and the bike once angled to the side had tilted the rim and the disk in their housings. By this stage calm was cracking and it was very hard not to tell the world my frustrations. Reset the rim but the brush of the brake pads combined with the dust and grit made the bike sound and feel very unwell.
Eyes scanning for decent road our hoped salvation, we cycled through a side valley water course before turning up along it's left side wall. Back onto actual completed road base but still not tar as we started to climb on a lesser gradient then previous but still steep. Turn a corner past some very encouraging road workers and hallelujah tar. Not only tar but a concrete edged road that visibly switchbacks up the range in front of us. I could have cried but it was bloody hot and so we pushed on humming to ourselves until a small roadside village where we stocked up on cold water. The boy at the store encouraged us to rest until 4pm when the bus would come through. We decline the offer and set off, just us and a few goats sharing a beautiful road with signs acknowledging periodic steep ascents of 100 - 300mtrs. The road even had had pedestrian stairs and underpasses not that they were being used.
Stiff climb up to the visible ridge line before we rounded another bend and commenced another series of climbs up along the new valley side. Forested slopes and a light breeze bringing some relief from both the afternoon sun and the heat of the climb.
The drop at the edge of the road more precipitous yet the bends show no sign of diminishing, nor can we accurately identify where the road will cut through or pass over the ridge. Energy significantly depleted and stops increasing. Soph not that keen to camp following stories of leopards in the hills. Finally cycle up past a police check post and into the ridge town. Attract most of town whilst ordering chiya which is quite peppery, I like pepper but sometimes it makes the dregs taste like egg. Locals confirm it is pretty much all downhill to Sindhuli Bazaar.
Out of town at about 4.40pm and have a slight descent but a few more short pinch climbs before we see our first series of recurring descent signs. Refreshed by the downhill, let the bike take the head and flow through the tight bends rapidly picking up, then loosing speed. Pass two kids on homemade go carts roaring down the far side gutter before pulling over beneath a store at a marked bus stop. Owner comes out and identifies that he does both fooding and lodging.
Having decided to cycle no further we relocate with help our gear to the top of the steps. The lodge, new according to the owner is still under construction but the beds look fine. Dal Bhat served by the owners wife is fantastic as we use our hands to mix it all up. In Nepal locals use their right hand to eat their Bhat, we were even told by one store owner in Kathmandu that it brought him closer to his food, an earthy experience. All it appears to do for me however is to wrinkle and yellow my fingers. I do not obtain the higher existence feeling as described. Settle into bed following dinner and are very quickly asleep after a challenging day.
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