Rocky road (Tuesday 30 November)

Left Hamirpur heading for Tira Sujanpur on the Beas River. Uphill out of Hamirpur, downtown the traffic was morning nuts. What is worse than standard Indian driving rules? Standard Indian driving that is constrained by witches hats where you may expect a dividing line. For cyclists and pedestrians this means that the traffic that would normally flow around is forced to remain in it's lane so something has to give and it is not speed.

Further along we pull over to confirm still heading on the right road as we had three or four times by now and invited for chai at a general store. We take up the opportunity and also avail ourselves of their bottled mineral water to add to our depleted stock. In non touristy places it is quite challenging to find mineral water or soft drink. Yet to restock on batteries for the Steripens. Decline the offer to stay overnight as it is still early and we are keen to get moving.

From India, Lake Rewalsar to Kangra. November 2010

Climb and fall most of the morning on way to Sujanpur. In the morning we see snow capped ridges on a range in the semi near distance.

Roll into Sujanpur and downtown bazaar is located to the side of the towns oval, as is the bus stand which sits underneath an old fort high on the overlooking hill behind. Heaps of people wandering around and sitting on the oval. Not sure what the deal is.

We lap the place twice, to the amusement of nearly everyone in the bazaar, in the search of a good looking Dharba to grab some lunch. Only find some cold veg pakora and chai at a sweets store. Still better then nothing. Not as nice cold as fresh and hot.

Head back to the turn to Nadaun, which to our dissatisfaction appears to be back 5km, along the road that we have just come along. The map does not give a great deal of indication of this and the main turn sign is in Hindi. Further when we get there the road, titled as an "other road" on our map, is pretty much a country lane.

Both feeling pretty tired after backing up from a couple of saddle sore days. The tooting, near misses and calls of "Hellooo", "How are you" and "Where are you from?" are grating rather then a nice break from the tedium of churn. When you allow yourself as a traveller to become pessimistic everything becomes darker. On bikes this can also translate to frustrating gear changes, feeling your back or leg or muscle tingle versus the positive which sees the challenge, the adventure rather then the slog. Road works give you the sh#ts very easily when tired.

Turns out the crossing from Sujanpur to Nadaun had two unidentified aspects, rather then following the river flats the road rose and fell through river crossings and due to road works this became tedious. Descents were slower and ascents more weaving to pick the tar and avoid the competition. Google earth back at Rewalsar definitely did not visualise this. For the second day in a row I am self flagellating for not following the Buddhist monk's advice on leaving the Gompa. Still nothing ventured, and no doubt the other road had it's challenges too.

From India, Lake Rewalsar to Kangra. November 2010

From India, Lake Rewalsar to Kangra. November 2010

The crossing also by now carried the uncertainty of accommodation and concern of night riding. Again when feeling down this concern can be quite dark at the back of your thoughts. Pakora burp with tinge of chilli dip, burns the throat and makes the eyes water.

Riding through small village surrounded by green plots and eucalypts an oncoming bus sees us drift to the side of the semi tar, however a holy dog is on the other side sunning itself. You could feel the drivers indecision holy dog, foreigners, holy dog, foreigners, in the end the swerve was our way and so we pushed into further evasion and into the heavily pot holed dirt. Arguably a calculated move by the driver as it was unlikely the holy dog was going anywhere fast. Still I am sure that many Indian drivers forget that they also have a brake. It is general procedure of many to swerve at speed rather than slow, pause and pass. No generalization intended but there is enough of a trend to be a pattern.

From India, Lake Rewalsar to Kangra. November 2010

From India, Lake Rewalsar to Kangra. November 2010

We roll down to a broad river crossing with road work on the Nadaun side of a long single lane bridge. Similar to most of these river beds encountered in the last couple of days, there are farm tractors with large high trailers down on the river beds with people shoveling the grapefruit sized white and grey river rocks into the trailer.


On the Nadaun side we pull over to catch a breath and have a cookie and banana break prior to the oncoming climb. A pair of guys on a road motorbike coming downhill stop opposite us, in their lane, (or what would be their lane if there was tar and a dividing line) and started a conversation identifying that they had seen us in the bazaar at Sujinpur. The conversation then moved onto the standard questions to the oblivion of the downhill traffic swerving around them until we, noticing an oncoming truck and bus shut the conversation down by waving prior to heading up the hill. The guys, with no helmets, appear not in the least fazed by certain road death. Man I must be getting old.

On the climb up we pass what appears to be a family; father, son and teenage daughter on the road side with sledge hammers breaking the river rocks for use in the road base. They look up and smile broadly with a look on their faces identifying that they obviously think we are crazy. After school work appears a lot more physical around these parts, the boy had to be 11 to 13 and the girl maybe 16 to 17. She was wearing sari styled top but loose draped pants rather than a wrap. She had a nose piercing and was girlishly attractive, especially whilst smiling. Once again Handmade in India, takes on a new meaning.

Finally roll down to the junction with the National Highway. I have never been so excited to rejoin one of these havens of cab on monoxide but the tar felt like heaven, the gradient consistent and the traffic constant but lite.

Roll through Nadaun taking stock of the hotel offerings. Few on this side of town so continue to roll down towards the river. Pull over to discuss our options as it is now 4.30pm. Invited into a Dharba by a 20 something guy for chai. Over chai find out that he is Punjabi and has been living in Nadaun for the past two years working as an electrical technician for Samsung. Applied for a work visa to Australia a while back but was declined. Apparently focus at present is on study visas. The guys talk us into riding onto Jwala Mukhi which apparently many more hotel options being a more touristy place. Quite convincing as the desire to cycle a further 11km or so was low and we were both concerned of further hills and night riding.

Push out across the long bridge and churn. The road feels smooth and we are eating up the kms. Still at 9kms we are both starting to wonder and the traffic is getting more risqué especially to those with no lights and little to no road edge.

Final hill climb is unidentifiably different and so pleasant surprise when roll up past the first hotel. Tempted though we were to take the first offering of a hot shower and a bed we roll further into town and select a quiet hotel before the main bus stand and market. The guys were right, there is a plethora of accommodation choices on offer. Most advertising 24 hr hot water and cable.

Hit the streets to grab some dinner, Aloo fritters and chana, followed by chai. Grab some mandarins 40 rup for a kg pre heading back to the hotel and seeping into the bed post watching some Australian master chef season two followed by an episode of "Lie to me" that I haven't seen.

 

The buzz of Lake Rewalsar (Saturday 27 November)

Out of Sundenagar late as stuffing around trying to get home made micro sim to work. No love so far. Stopped in at a Punjabi veggie Dharba for I think the best paranthas yet. Filled with green chilli, potatoe, coriander and spring onions. Paranthas are best when cooked on a stone hot plate which is kind of like a top feed oven over hot coals. The bread is placed onto the warm stone surface and cooks well without the need of continuous oil required when using a wok over gas flame. Cuts down the oil content though this is then offset by lump of butter ontop when served. Curd is also an optional extra but not so keen, finally pickles which are quite a hot, sour sweet flavor. Lucky we both like chilli and spice.

The owner has a Hero cycle out front and we compare bikes.






We cycle along the National Highway until Ner Chowk about 9kms from Sundernagar where we turn off to the left to head up to Rewalsar. This road is identified on our map as an "other" so can vary wildly. Pass more slum encampments than we have noticed in ages. Also at Ner Chowk approached by kids for coins but chased off by the policeman confirming our direction to Rewalsar.

In the backstreets of Ner Chowk we pull over to watch a Punjabi band, one uniformed and the other like an Indian samba band. The sound is great and the excitement electric similar to a samba bands energy.



We head out through small villages lining the roads and increasing small agriculture. Road is pretty rough and we pass road crews with donkeys, pick axes and shovels. Again I am amazed at the handmade aspect. We have seen some excavation gear but so much that would happen at home via mechanized assistance is achieved here by hand. Whilst wearing long pants and long collared shirts. The road crews are some of the fastest to stop and smile as we pass. I only hope they gain as much energy from us as we do from them.

After one short pinch we are invited by an aged man and his daughter for tea, we decline gratefully as we are concerned with late start and uncertainty of the terrain ahead. We drop down to a river and a concrete bridge before climbing again. The river is clean as are the banks, we are also leaving behind the haze that sat so heavily over Sundenagar.

Whether the result of the 90km or so yesterday or the road being a back road and therefore not as gradated we feel every climb and they just keep coming. It is also much warmer than higher in the hills making us quite hot. We pass numerous temples and micro towns before finally pulling into a sweet store for tea. Plenty of hustle in a little place we are ushered into the dark confines of the store and wooden benches where three guys join us and supply pakora. They have little English and we little Hindi so unfortunately not much joint communication, however when we go to leave one of them has paid for our tea. They also explain about 2km further of climbing then 5km or so less so.



Soph starting to wear out and I am not far behind. Our cookie, Limca(soft drink) and banana stops are increasing in number as we take any opportunity to get our butts out of the saddle and or suck in some breaths. At the same time we dodge trucks, buses and other vehicles on the single lane bitumen.

We finally roll into Rewalsar trashed. Still looking for the lake. On our map it shows no water source or lake so we are increasingly skeptical. However we roll through a pass and notice a nestled large village over which sits a massive seated Buddha / Hindi figure. We roll through town with plenty of head nods and hellos and find the Buddhist temple/accomodation at the red gompa. To our suprise right in front is a lake, situated behind the main street and surrounded by Tibetan inspired aspect, whether the Gompas or a large prayer flag display or other temples. Lots of Tibetan / Nepalese looking people many carrying prayer beads some with mobile prayer wheels(my interpretation anyway). Again that sun darkened appearance with Asiatic eyes, rounder faces and flowing clothing versus the more southern Indian appearance.

The back streets which are on the lake circuit are full of dharbas, cloth and Tibetan inspired stores. We are also approached by more people for donations. Including a haggle of well worn grandmothers. Monks also moving around either chanting or on other specific business. Our tolerance levels unfortunately have been eroded by the climb, several times wanting to give tooting drivers the finger on the climb however thankfully maintaining our chi, still not at full strength as yet to eat lunch and now 4pm.

We grab lunch / dinner at the Kora Community Cafe and try out their 100% Indian coffee. Coffee ok but the veg chowmein with cashews is great as is the dhal and chapattis. Decide to check out the real main street and pass herdsmen bringing in their goats with a couple of kids also. Otherwise a normal bustling Indian village. We cut through the high side of town which is less bustling and touristy and more residential and relaxed, though still with a Tibetan accent. We follow stairs that would not look out of place in a Harry potter movie and one or two narrow alleys and are back on the tourist circuit yet the touts have packed up for the evening. Head to an Internet / cyber cafe and share it with two backpackers and more then our fair share of super sized mosquittos. In a Buddhist town feeling guilty about swatting them.

Back to the Gompa and to our room. Single beds but great. Monkeys are out in force. There is nothing like monkeys on the roof, and ripping apart newspapers out the front or hanging from the guttering to make interest nighttime noise. I have the window bed. I no doubt will dream of Jumanji and the scene where monkeys steal a police car as that is what it currently sounds like outside. Every now and again Soph mutters naughty monkeys in her semi sleep succumbed state. Beanie on.

Chindi Apple Farm and the cycle to Sundernagar

From India, Chindi to Sundernagar. November 2010

From India, Chindi to Sundernagar. November 2010

From India, Chindi to Sundernagar. November 2010

From India, Chindi to Sundernagar. November 2010

From India, Chindi to Sundernagar. November 2010

From India, Chindi to Sundernagar. November 2010

View photo gallery of this area:

India, Chindi to Sundernagar. November 2010

Kasauli - Wonderful hospitality

Kasauli was an amazing place to visit and stay. The hospitality at Birds View Resort was one of the best experiences for us within India.
We cycled along the Bridle Path from Kalka to Birds View Resort. The natural beauty and peacefulness on offer here would be perfect for a family holiday, a weekend retreat or a place to birdwatch and go for walks along the ridges.
View photo gallery of Kasauli at the bottom of this page.

From India, Kasauli. November 2010

From India, Kasauli. November 2010

From India, Kasauli. November 2010

India, Kasauli. November 2010

On the road again (Thursday 18 November)

Leave Chandigarh, following breakfast and presents from our family away from family. But not before a quick trip to the local Krishna temple this time part of the international consciousness movement. Very large temple, but quite empty at this time the morning. We receive information on the movement, the temple and a basic overview of the teachings. Very interesting. Massive semitrailer sized cart out the front for an annual local event occurring on the weekend, where a large statue of Krishna will be placed on the cart and wheeled around town, for those who can't make it to Krishna, he will make it to them. The cart is pulled by devotees and the wheels alone tower over me.


Ride out of Chandigarh smooth, but once out back onto a National Highway with it's traffic and smog.

We start to climb up towards Kalka. First consistent climbing since we started cycling in India.

At Kalka we take the back road past the railway station, just off which is a street containing most of the hotels in town. We settle in one, prior to hitting the streets which are still going strong at 8pm, though a small highway town. Chana at the local Dharba is great pre tea at a sweet store.


We are out as soon as our heads touch our pillows recovering from the ride, the flu and an amazing couple of days in Chandigarh.

Cracker night (Wednesday 17 November)

Up this morning and again served breakfast first. Breakfast includes some fantastic pickles mainly hot and sour to add to the pratha. We head to the stores to utilise the internet at the cyber cafe.

Once back at Mayank's place we give a hand changing over a tire and then we are off to the Rock Garden. Mayank, Anuradha (Mayank's mother) Soph and I. Amazing place made predominantly out of domestic and industrial waste to form sculptures and an overall creative environment, water features etc. Quite impressive especially when considered started by one guy without the awareness of the local authorities, who later came on board when they saw what he was doing.





The scale is incredible, we spent a few hours walking through together with a mass of Indian tourists. Every now and again we were mobbed for photos and questions re where we were from, Christian name etc. Again weird especially as I could not speak due to lost voice and was coming down with nasty cold.





From the rock garden we headed to the Lake which was another must see on the Chandigarh route. Again heaps of Indian tourists and school kids. Outside from the carpark across to the lakeside park there was a zebra crossing, however this was discussed and confirmed as just pretty markings rather then any indication of traffic expectation. We ran across looking in all directions as we did so.

Besides icecream, coffee, paddle boats etc the lake also appeared to attract a healthy crowd of geese. These little snappers knew the tourist crowd well and lapped up the opportunity to grab crumbs, chips etc. Along the lake a little further guys were training in kayaks, Canadian canoes and rowing skulls. We were approached by the tourist police who asked if we could write in their comments book. After which mine also asked if I could add a comment about the tourist police, of whom we had not met until this moment. Still glad to oblige tried to write something positive from our short exposure.





Headed to Sector 17 for diner, as we had enforced our shout. Went to a South Indian restaurant and tried various dishes as selected for us. The meals were great but numerous and we all struggled to leave a good impression by finishing as much as possible.

Then invited to Anuradha's temple where we sat and listened to a fantastic ceremony/sung story with great live backing music. The music was absolutely pumping and the singing first class. Soph and Anuradha disappeared, when Soph reappeared she had the red dot in the middle of her forehead. Pre entering we had to remove our shoes and wash our hands.

Anuradha asked if we were keen to go and check out a wedding, at this stage we were up for anything and so jumped into a land cruiser sized four wheel drive with the crew and Mayank's "uncle" behind the wheel.

First we pulled up to one celebration where a punjabi band were in full swing and the groom was sitting on a horse outside the marquee, the crowd had spilled out onto the street. We jumped out and joined the crowd for a while before being told this wasn't the wedding we were going to. Back into the car with a few more passengers in the back and off again. This time to a large auditorium. Turned out to be the wedding of the police commissioner's daughter. Introduced to the man out on the steps before the auditorium and photographed doing the handshake. Invited in.

Once inside, the place was massive as was the crowd. We were ushered to the front seats before the wedding dais and dance floor, again bizarre especially as we looked like garbage and I was feeling about the same. Still this did not deter the wait staff who kept on trying to ply us with food and drink that all looked great, but unfortunately we were both really full from the South Indian restaurant from earlier in the evening. Seriously if the guys were bringing red wine and I were not feeling ill nor on Malarial tablets I would be in serious trouble.

It wasn't long before the camera / video crew turned up with the sweat as you smile tv bright lights mounted to the top. Again i hope we are edited out of the final cut.

Then we headed outside to an equally large area where people were seated and eating their meal and catching up. We sat down at one table and were no sooner plied with ice-cream and sweets. Not long now and I will explode. Still waiting for the bouncers to rock up and remove us, people were not in the least fazed, in fact had a range of photographs group hugging with unknown associates. Best part though was this turbaned guy who had aspects of Johnny Depp who was plying these sweets that were combined and wrapped in a beetle nut leaf. Served with the character and placed directly in your mouth after Johnny delivered a blessing / joke to the recipient. Groom yet to arrive and rain lightly falling we departed.

Back into the land cruiser and back to the temple, where the ceremony was just coming to a conclusion. Outside food was being served, and though declined we received a couple of sweets that I believe had been blessed. No sooner had we finished this then fire crackers were being set up outside on the path. Not just small, discreet crackers but stuff that really took off and lit up the sky. By this time it was about 10.30pm but no one appeared to be at all concerned, apart from when I strayed unknowing close to one. Given cracker night ceased when I was about 10 or 11 it had been along time since I had been in the close vicinity of non licensed cracker lighting. It had all the classic markings of an unplanned cracker event, the cracker that you think is dead only to go off as someone is heading over to investigate, the cracker that tips over having been lit requiring someone to hastily run over and straighten prior to exploding either toward the crowd or a car, the bangers that people used to blow up mailboxes with (or so I heard).

Finally we were off again, but first to a market for another snack before heading home where I mercifully fell into bed feeling half dead.

Morinda pics - 16th November

The Hindi temple that kindly took us in for the night..we were lucky at 8pm to have found accommodation in Morinda.






The Sikh temple call to prayer began at 4am and continued for quite a few hours... A nice early wake up especially when unexpected.

Ludhiana to Morinda pics - 15th November

Our first Dhaba between Ludhiana and Morinda. We both highly rate the veg noodles here with fresh white radish pieces..nice and crisp/sweet.





Basmati rice trucks waiting for unload in a LONG queue that went for literally kilometers. The drivers were hanging out patiently.

Hindi wedding in Ludhiana pics - 14th November

Bride and groom during the ceremony... Amazing to be invited into the wedding ceremony.

Hindi wedding Ludhianna

Breakfast at the hotel restaurant which is quite schmick. Small dense croissants, mini muffins, toast, pranthas, pawpaw, honey dew and chai. Unpack the bikes from their bike bags and start the reconstruction. Handlebars, derailleurs, wheels and pedals all back on. Some hassle with Soph's dérailleur as the Rocky Mountain doesn't have a hanger, so a little adjustment required and use the quick release chain to assist the process. Put the wheels in and the disks on both bikes look like they have been bent slightly in transit. Start sweating at this point. A little manual flex though and rescrewing the housing whilst clamping the brake levers achieves a workable solution. Bob fine. The rear light housing on Soph's bike has broken but hopefully we won't be cycling at night anyway.

Soph does the stairs a couple of times to check to see whether the wedding she has been invited to has started yet or not. We are on the fourth floor and the wedding on the first so a few flights gets the heart pumping. Soph has spent since breakfast trying to work out what she will wear. It was definitely not something that we packed for. Soph ends up tying a green pashmina (lent by a friend at the last minute before leaving Aus) around as a skirt, Thai style, together with her icebreaker top. We cackle a few times about the possibility of it all coming undone, but there are no other obvious options.

Soph is gone most of the morning bar to identify that her flash has died after less then five minutes of non continuous use... Batteries aren't what they used to be. I quite happily potter with the bikes, getting gradually greasier from chains etc.

Soph pops up and identifies that I too have been invited to the wedding and that we should go down as they are just about to have a meal. I am just as stumped as Soph with what to wear but we head down anyway.

Once in the venue immediately taken in post a few quick introductions to where the banquet is being served. Huge range of all veg options. Back into the crowd for introductions and photos whilst eating. Between the flood light attached to the video camera, the curries and what I believe is a cold post the flight, I am struggling not to sweat profusely. These lights would make a mossad interrogator feel right at home, and they have been pointing these at the bride and groom for most of the time that we have been eating. If I was the bride, and lucky for the groom I am not my henna tattoos would be mush by now.

Really interesting range of people and the older generations are extremely welcoming. The wedding itself is casual but formal, following a traditional format but with plenty of casualness shown by the crowd. Then the dj breaks out some tunes and dancing starts up with hindi classics overladen with dance/trance. The extended family all appears to be very comfortable with each other. Soph and i get dragged up, but cannot hope to match it with some obviously well practiced bollywood and dance floor moves. Some of the crowd are also fantastic singers as one or two take the mic.

Quite a long ceremony with the involvement of blessed sweets, seven circuits of a flame on the main stage and even the hiding of the grooms shoes which is apparently tradition. The throwing of flower petals, the giving of gifts. Then the bride departs with the groom which is an emotional time for the brides family as she moves from her birth home to that of the grooms. So all in all many similarities just performed in alternate way.

We are even given gifts for attending the ceremony. Mainly for Soph and her time as unofficial photographer.

Following the bride and grooms departure we make for the room, which is windowless and quite claustrophobic as a result, though large. Beautiful marble floor and bathroom, even the fire stairs are marble, which we see quite a bit of because the elevator is quite pokey. We also have been unable to get the wifi to work which is a shame.

Head out into the back streets to grab some fruit, and fruit juice in preparation for the commencement of our cycling tomorrow. Amazed by just how busy it is at 8.30 on a Sunday evening, downtown, it seems to if anything gotten busier but it is probably just the lights, everything is lit up, if in some cases only by the whizzing bikes and cars in the streets.

Back to the hotel to fight off what ever I have and with anticipation building of the commencement of the ride tomorrow.

Hazy days of autumn (Saturday 13 November)

Early morning due to the uncertainty regarding our train booking to Ludhiana. Trains in India are huge and appear to be used by much of the population. To secure tickets it is recommended to reserve 72 hours out from the train departing. We were still in aclimatisation mode and therefore had not made it to the train station, therefore we were under the time recommendation. India trains withhold some tickets for last minute sale under the taktal system. We availed ourselves of this at a cost, which was we believed comparatively less then remaining in Delhi. However the seats are not confirmed until the night before. As luck would have it, the wireless in our room decided to encounter problems last night and so we had to wake at 5 to ask reception to check for us. At 5am the desk manager was asleep on the hotels main reception couch and the security guard curled up near the glass entry doors. Thankfully the tickets had been successful and so we bundled out to another mini prepaid taxi and off to Delhi station. Definitely less people about with street stall vendors, donkey carts etc just rolling into place.

Delhi station even at this time is busy. Prospective porters circled, with the head porter pulling out a Commonwealth games booklet to explain he charges, of course covering all charges but the most expensive. One charge from taxi to station and addition if onto train. Wishing to be relatively self reliant and also still In possession of our gear at the train we accepted one porter and lugged the rest, it is not as if we had not had quite a bit of practice to this date. Again metal detectors. One advantage of the porter was that he powered onto the exact location of where the carriage would eventually stop. The security guard at the station on seeing the scan of the bikes told us we had the wrong tickets and there was no chance that we would get the bikes on. Post complaining that this had not been explained and that we had been told specifically that it would not be a problem. Brushed off with a semi smile. We were becoming worried, but the porter was on a mission so had to take off after him.

Once setup on the station we paid our porter and then I went off looking for the Foreign counter apparently here somewhere, post no success settled with going to the stationmaster but he had just disappeared. Settled next to another patient local with the mins ticked away. Once the train arrival time came about I decided to try pleading at the carriage and went back to find Soph.

Train turned up not long after and we made a move to the carriage with our gear. Fortuitously we scored the back seats behind which had room to store the bikes. Bob went up in the luggage racks. We had purchased 1AC seats as commended which was executive class which seemed to help. Train staff were not at all fazed.

We settled in and the train staff distributed newspapers, followed by bottled water, followed by tea and coffee, followed by breakfast. Uncertain at first, we decline the Tea and coffee. Lonely planet had mentioned being careful accepting drinks / food from people with risk of doping and then theft. Plus constant concern regard water etc. With encouragement from the guys next to us though we enjoyed the service.

Staff were great and we passed the time talking with our seat companions, quizzing for further info. The guy next to Soph was watching Avatar on an iPad and the guy next to me a young modern textile industrialist from Amritsar answered all of our questions for the majority of the ride. Living in both Delhi and Amritsar he travelled frequently via train between the two. Great to talk to we gained further background and saw both examples of work and photos of the Golden temple on his blackberry. The company supplies grps such as Levis, JCPenny, Walmart etc with wool fabric pre designed/colored to specification. Soon to be heading to Singapore and Bali on holidays he was very interested in travel, but preferred beaches to bikes. Very warm and with a great outlook on life it was another insight into India's many spectrums.

Off the train at Ludhiana and many new faces. Porters appeared but we declined graciously. Tried to locate the Punjabi state tourism office (as advised by Tourism India) but to no success. A very nice punjabi station official at least enquired on our behalf. Approached by taxi driver and loaded up a normal sedan. One bike in the front and one in the boot. Again suffering the highs and lows of foreign journeys, comfortably coping one second and dog paddling the next.



At the Hotel Friends Regency, feeling a little uncertain, compounded by sense of oncoming illness. Door security / welcome via a uniformed Sikh Punjabi with mostach. Flourishing military salute, and more greatly appreciated smiling eyes. Met at front counter later by Mr Pathak who came across and graciously offered to assist our map planning when we inquiring of front desk staff regarding Punjabi State Tourism.

He identified that his niece was getting married at the hotel the following day and invited us to attend. He also spent between numerous mobile calls, time plotting out and giving recommendations on how to cycle to Shimla. Not at all fazed by the cycle aspect. Mr Pathak also turned out to be the General Manager of the hotel.

We decided to go out to see if we could find further backup maps via a bookstore, plus to assist the sweat build up under my eyes. Indian 3 star hotel rooms can be a little claustrophobic not due to their size but rather the absence of windows. Along the walk back into town we passed rickshaw drivers and at one stage even had guys pull into to see if we were ok. The absence of difficult to drop salesmen and children gave time to explore without feeling pressured. Did give alms on the way to some street women and have the horrible feeling that I placed the coins in a can not offered for alms but rather as a service (it contained liquid of some sort). Moved on quickly.



At a bookstore the owner directed us to Lyalls book store near the clock tower. We located rickshaws and asked one to take us, more for the guide then the ride. Unfortunately the guy was the oldest in the pack and so both of us felt guilty when approaching the station as there is an overpass. We discussed offering to cycle for him, but difficult to explain, I jumped off to help push, Soph remained so that there was no offense. Down the other side was a different matter with both of us wondering whether helmets were optional. Into the melée of the markets of ludhiana but more understandable. Feeling that more people were interested and smiling rather then just staring.






Become more practiced at heLLo and namaste as ice breakers. We encountered a Ludhiana downtown traffic jam with plenty of locals yelling out to each other and then located Lyalls and more importantly a detailed map of himachal pradesh the north western most state of India of which Shimla or Simla is the state capital. Amazing book store and helpful, friendly staff. Unfortunately they didn't have Uttarakhand the state prior to entering Nepal.

Back the same way again over the overpass but in rush hour. Given that it was a Saturday there appeared no difference, with most shops still remaining open until 8pm.



Went and explored the area around the hotel locating a suburban strip with general stores, clothing, food etc. Everything appears available it is just a case of locating. One girl assisted directions indicating that it was a pleasure to be of assistance. Again greater feeling of smiling versus non smiling interest. Found a bakery. The labeled prices seemed to not apply for us as we were charged the extra tourist fee by the smiling owner after we paid the equiv of $2 AUD for two pastries and some delicious caraway seed biscuits. I was still feeling sick so we walked back to the room and after some Lemonade crashed in attempt to sleep off the sick feeling. It worked as on Sunday morning we tucked into a nice breakfast of fresh fruit, tea, coffee, pastries and toast!

Holy Dogs

Breakfast at hotel after 15hr sleep to try and regain normality. Aloo mater or similar with roti and juice. Cool, can handle this, skipped the boiled eggs however.

Decided to go Metro to meet the locals in a more ordered fashion then we had yesterday on the general streets. The Metro is awesome. Given that population in Delhi is I believe (as only researched via wickipedia) comparative to that of Australia it is great. Trains were running at 2min intervals and to get to the station you first had to go through metal detector similar to flying + bag scan also, but given that it was pretty smooth and fluid, pat down is kind of novel and not as intrusive as you would think. Girls line up in a separate line to the guys. Karol Bagh to downtown Old Delhi (via Chandni Chowk station) 15 rup pp so less than .50c rocked up to train which is all well signed in both Hindi and English. Train pulled up and we jumped on, but I noticed that there were all women in this particular carriage so jumped off again pretty quickly. There are women only carriages for women traveling unaccompanied, so we jumped in the male section where there were definitely less girls and slightly more intimate so I can understand the segregation. Soph didn't identify any pinching which can occur per the blogs so ok.

At Chandni Chowk jumped off and into the back streets post exiting the station. Grabbed a freshly squeezed juice from a street vendor who went to double the price but was brought back to normal price by a nice older Indian man who came and bought one at the same time and ensured we were charged Indian pricing. 10rup for small glass, 15rup medium and 20rup large. He warned us that we needed to make sure that we bartered more aggressively and wished us well. Again the street vendor was all smiles and it was just part of the game of foreigner fleecing that appears part of hanging out around here.

First street kids. To give or not to give. Not beggars on every street corner as you are sometimes lead to believe and no horribly disfigurements but I am sure they are probably somewhere.

Eyes. So many eyes and 8 stare offs to every smile. It rubs in the intimidation that foreigners feel in a genetically foreign place. Man I wish we were tanned as it would help us blend in a little more.

Rocked on down to the Red Fort being our first touristy outing. 10rup for locals, 250rup Foreigners pp. The line however for foreigners was only three ahead of us, compared to around the corner and up the stairs for locals.







Massive red Agra stoned fort from Mughal times. Frisked again. Police or military with machine guns, behind barricades, but all pretty chilled out. 50/50 smiling. Started roaming the grounds... this place in it's day would have been extremely regal in a beautifully Asian way. All Arab inspired domes and arches combine with abundant gardens and water fountains etc. Water was pumped from the river and a moat / aqua duct combination. Spread the water throughout the fort to help keep the fort cool. Stunning white marble and scenes reminiscent of somewhere between Ali baba and The King and I. Plus as our new added animal bonus there were these little squirrel type things getting around. Little guys.

We continued with our one sided stare off fest as we moved around to the degree that we were fast becoming very self conscious. Three teenagers pulled us over and asked if they could take photos of us. Not sure what the deal was, whether just curious, whether they wanted to pass onto there friends to take us out latter or whether Soph maybe looked similar to a porn star. ( a Dutch girl cycling around the world identified that this had been suggested to her at one stage, not because she looked particularly trashy, but rather the prevalence in some sectors that euro girls are less chaste then asian ones) thankfully a little further round after more stare offs a extended family stopped us to enquire / and compare family details, what we liked to eat, what faith etc etc. All with lots of smiles and serious interest. He identified himself as muslim so we left out the pork factor. He quite liked beef, chicken, goat, dog, horse, ox, and buffalo however. He did retract Horse as had confused the English with ox. I am sure that Soph let out a secret sigh of relief. The family were great, I hope we have the opportunity to meet many more in similar way.





On way around grounds Soph piled out the camera but felt very self conscious. Staring was starting to get to her.

Outside the red fort we met a rick shaw guide who was very compelling, plus I was keen to fast track our discoveries as street location especially in the side streets is tricky.

He turned out to be a legend. Though with the Lonely planet pre warned traits of commission targeting and add on sale perspective. Still it blew both our minds where he could and would get his rickshaw and again the point and shoot politics of confronting traffic both on the bike and latter on foot. People are amazing obliging and in a crazy way very fluid. Via guide we explored the street markets, spice, jewelry, partha, shoe, sari etc etc. All with defined streets and conglomeration of vendors with the ensuing senses commensurate with the defined trade. There were also carpenters who sat on acknowledged street corners with there tools awaiting commissions.




We explored the Muslim and Hindi sections of the old city and visited both the Friday mosque and oldest Jain temple. Both impressive in their own right. The call to prayers and size of the afternoon worship compared to the silent and artistic beauty of the pre Mughal Jain temple. Monkeys also hanging out in the trees behind the temple. Just lazying around going about their good times.

From the top of the Spice markets we looked over both a wholesale papadum and rose petal drying operations set up on the top of roofs.









In the background old teak and stone buildings and the ever present haze of Delhi.








Met on the stairs on way to roof terrace first three Holy puppies then closely followed on the next flight Holy mother dog. Puppies took an alarming like to Sophie on the way down and though I did hear the sound of a yelp this did not deter them in the least playing until we left their level.

Being with a guide assisted not only direction but also allowed us to garner semi acceptance and comfort. When in a strange city a downward spiral can be quickly commenced when not moving confidently and on with a purpose. In Delhi with abstract pavement and motor madness this can be challenging to achieve. We are definitely getting better at crossing even busy roads.








We also noted again the positive interest that results in us attempting local gratuities, names etc.. Poorly and in some cases blank reception but generally positive.

Soph bought a local top to assist in greater assimilation but I talked her out of sari. Not sure on a bike that we want to carry an extra 6mtrs of cloth. Paid premium most likely but painless and still cheap.

Past Halal meat markets and back to Chandni Chowk metro. We had been rickshaw wandering for four and a half hrs. (we did offer several times to cycle for him, but smilingly declined. Especially when offered by Soph)

Back to metro, though busy hr post work crush (Delhi style). One wrong turn and a couple of dark alleys back to our hotel. People on street at 8ish in the dark still friendly. In fact Delhi pumps on strongly until at least 8pm. It looks different at night lit up, no visual haze and hidden holes/earth/mess etc. Grabbed our first coffees at Cafe Coffee Day a local chain very western and semi western pricing. Acceptable coffee though which is great. 75rup espresso. I hope to find a good chai place tomorrow. Passed one today but not quite confident.

Then home to hotel. Smiling guard out front. I am sure secret smiles inside but outward smile warm via eyes. We flat lined with communication on day one. Blank eyes and smiles when trying to get street confirmations. Still homely when you are clutching at things to put your hat on.

Train to Ludhiana slightly trickier then expected so have lined up for Sat morning. 1AC so we won't be sitting in the baggage racks but early in morning so will be interesting. 5hr ride NNW of Delhi. Tomorrow we will explore Connaught Place and Chawri Bazar.

Love to all.

Delhi hectivity

Flight to Delhi a breeze, though downsized to a Boeing 777. The haze over Delhi gave Los Angeles a run for it's money + some.

Delhi airport is big but the Terminal was almost deserted when we landed. Outside was a different matter. Decided to sort out our Indian sim when on first inspection we were unable to locate our free airport transfer. Process was a little drawn out but easier then blogs suggested. Micro sim we will leave for another day however.

Airport staff were great given that currently dependent on English. Paid for a Pre paid cab as suggested by Airport info as could not get onto the hotel. Black and yellow cab. Man this place is seriously full on. I remember Bangkok being a shock when I visited as a teenager, and Delhi has a lot of the same if not crazier.

The yellow cab we were directed to was the smallest one there even though there were also vans. Bikes went on top strapped to the roof racks. Car advertised AC but it appeared to be the window down variety.

Ganesh shrine on the front dash our driver headed off. So much stuff going on. I wouldn't title it development rather then life. Because it was not just construction but also deconstruction, people, mess, sounds..

Driver swap over just outside the airport, dodgy, including last driver swapping out of his collared shirt into singlet. But met the venerable Mr Singh. Father of three including twin girls he was totally unfazed by the whole point and shoot politics of driving in Delhi. Devotee of the Hindi god Rama and recommender of the Kathmandu casino.

Vehicles for to try and limit a description to any sort of construction, model, age, condition etc would be ultimately insufficient were everywhere and tool of trade being the horn. However unlike the stressed out road rage horn tooting variety of home it is all just part and parcel of being on the road. More like a general communication of the tribe rather then anger or built up frustration.

Monkeys cool. Our first monkeys. Not aggressive per Snr Singh and all hanging out in this park and on the sides of the road. I look forward to therefore not being harassed on the bikes by monkeys. A recurring dream.

The hunt was on for our Hotel. In the Karol Burg region of Delhi there are per Mr Singh's estimate 100 so Hotels of which he knew a good 30 but ours was not among the ones he knew. However by this stage we had already been invited to come and share dinner (as his wife put on a pretty good feed apparently) so we weren't too concerned.

No wonder he had no idea. Karol Burg is like a quasi street scene from the classic movie Blade runner having somehow mated with a regular China town. Alleys and signs and things are everywhere. So in "A" Form taxi style guys on the side of the road were questioned, initially with no idea, but the deeper that we delved into the side streets, growing comprehension to our immense satisfaction.

Hotel Kingston was thankfully legit. I was starting to seriously wonder. Room great though no windows and wireless is best yet since leaving Toronto, NSW.

Terminal sleep

Well rank you again Our Ferrari soothsayer. We flew to Dubai in an A380. The temptation I find when confronted with unlimited Movies and TV is to pull an allnighter and absorb as much as available. This was assisted by following the sun with it only disappearing halfway across the Indian ocean.

Soph didn't help. She has an almost childlike love of clouds and spent hours photographing across not only the continent but also over the ocean. Therefore the window shutter to our row remained open when others had drifted into transit delirium.

One great addition to the flight is the ability to pull flight details off your plane and live camera feed as you fly, and land. Given that they take back your headphones early I recommend switching across to Tail view as you land. It is definitely a new perspective.

Dubai international is great. You keep in your mind this internationalism and well personally adjust the sliding scale for Australia due to our communicated pursuit of multiculturalism, albeit with the odd xenophobic throwback. But Dubai airport makes you realise how much you are yet to see. I love cities for their people and communities, both the warm and attractive and the frailties that so often come with being human. Dubai international at 12am is a wonderful microcosm of humanity. So many eyes, colours, clothes, languages, interactions etc. What also makes the terminal an experience is the massive arched roof. Combined with the light, date palms, silver and white it is impressive in itself. There are cool red recliner chairs in quiet spaces around the airport where the united economy nations gather to sleep in their non lounge/connecting flight haze.

We lapped the terminal three times failing to locate two spare. A green pashmina came into it's own, converting our non recliner version red chairs into our own sleep tent. It is now 10am AEST, 3am UAEST and are once again feeling normal, albeit non campos enlivened normal.

So off again this time on the final leg to Delhi, where the journey begins anew.

Ferrari soothsayer

Flight day. We decided to train to Sydney to develop our shoulders and test out our mutual abilities hauling luggage on and off trains.

The Newcastle/Central coast line turned out to be not only scenic but also great for fortune telling. Post struggling onto the train shouldering just under 74kg between the two of us we planted ourselves on a double facing chair with one bike against the window with Bob and the second bike sitting behind our chair. Cityrail with luggage was going fine.

When past Woy Woy it was pretty hard to hide the fact that we were heading somewhere when a Ferrai cap wearing dude slid into the double chair opposite us. Between swigs on his stubbie and post checking that we were flying overseas he proceeded to delve into stories of the oncoming storm and the recent Qantas difficulties. Not good oncoming flight chatter. However it was all passed on in good humor including the identification that if Qantas had gone with Ferrari engines instead of Rolls Royce their issues would never have happened.

When it came out that we would be flying to Delhi, our Ferrai forecaster identified that he was part Singalese and had traveled to the Indian sub continent before. His dream was to return to Sri Lanka where relatives has offered the opportunity to stay. He was turning 35 and not getting any younger. He had just about raised enough cash to make it happen. However his singalese father had passed away and he had a bit of a rap sheet so he was not sure that he would be welcomed with open arms. Pre getting off at Hornsby best wishes were shared.

We travelled on and made the airport on time if not comfortably. Checking was a breeze and even the hours floating around the airport drifted away smoothly. However every now again thunder would seep through at the preface of hearing. We slowly made our way closer to the Gate with the massive wall LCDs in Duty free flickering every now and again. Not good. Not good at all. Maybe Ferrai guy had been right. Sitting outside the gate and watching the earths electric show light up the night sky did not inspire confidence.

Then the words that should not have surprised us. EK 413 had been cancelled. Bummer. Bigger bummer, we would have to uncheck the 60kg of gear and lug it back somewhere. Where?

Emirates and the Airport staff were great. Not only were rooms at the Crown Plaza Cogee arranged but also a coach transfer. An alternate flight was also on the cards for the following day.

Transit heaven

Our Karma credits started well this morning with our bedroom facing across Coogee beach. Soothing tidal sounds and otherwise silence was fantastically refreshing. Our credits quickly ran out however with the Emirates transfer bus not being able to fit us on because of the bikes.

We had the pleasure therefore in being the only Emirates passengers on a second Sydney airport transit with our and a few other oversized bags. Still happy days, on our way again. At the airport the transit dropped us off, but the passengers whose bags we had accompanied were nowhere to be seen.

We went and raided a car sized trolley and moved into baggage mode. Sydney Airport Oversized baggage guys were pretty unfazed. Still any loser who takes off with a trolley this big and manages to actually fill it up surely is partially loco. We found the owners shortly after making it to the assigned checkin counter. A beautiful african family with young daughter and baby boy. Trolley was too big to work the queue corridors so back to the legs.

Soph still managing tough girl status. Hike a bike, but metro.

Just about at head of queue and Emirates had to relocate as they had run past their assigned checkin allocation. So off again legging the bags. Novelty factor was definitely wearing thin as was the more sensitive sections of our bike bags. Still the staff had been through similar joy, so we parked the feeling of world harmony for a moment that no doubt will present itself down the trail.

Eyes tearing with the joy of returning through Customs, but this time Soph was not picked out for further review. Sharpened up obviously from yesterday, either that or she is starting to look more like her passport photo, which is quite intimidating. Locals if confronted with the viewing pleasure will back away from one so stereotypically IRA hit woman. For a very smiley girl the non smile policy has detrimental effects.

What about Bob. A moving journey

Coming soon. Very soon.