Decided to go Metro to meet the locals in a more ordered fashion then we had yesterday on the general streets. The Metro is awesome. Given that population in Delhi is I believe (as only researched via wickipedia) comparative to that of Australia it is great. Trains were running at 2min intervals and to get to the station you first had to go through metal detector similar to flying + bag scan also, but given that it was pretty smooth and fluid, pat down is kind of novel and not as intrusive as you would think. Girls line up in a separate line to the guys. Karol Bagh to downtown Old Delhi (via Chandni Chowk station) 15 rup pp so less than .50c rocked up to train which is all well signed in both Hindi and English. Train pulled up and we jumped on, but I noticed that there were all women in this particular carriage so jumped off again pretty quickly. There are women only carriages for women traveling unaccompanied, so we jumped in the male section where there were definitely less girls and slightly more intimate so I can understand the segregation. Soph didn't identify any pinching which can occur per the blogs so ok.
At Chandni Chowk jumped off and into the back streets post exiting the station. Grabbed a freshly squeezed juice from a street vendor who went to double the price but was brought back to normal price by a nice older Indian man who came and bought one at the same time and ensured we were charged Indian pricing. 10rup for small glass, 15rup medium and 20rup large. He warned us that we needed to make sure that we bartered more aggressively and wished us well. Again the street vendor was all smiles and it was just part of the game of foreigner fleecing that appears part of hanging out around here.
First street kids. To give or not to give. Not beggars on every street corner as you are sometimes lead to believe and no horribly disfigurements but I am sure they are probably somewhere.
Eyes. So many eyes and 8 stare offs to every smile. It rubs in the intimidation that foreigners feel in a genetically foreign place. Man I wish we were tanned as it would help us blend in a little more.
Rocked on down to the Red Fort being our first touristy outing. 10rup for locals, 250rup Foreigners pp. The line however for foreigners was only three ahead of us, compared to around the corner and up the stairs for locals.
Massive red Agra stoned fort from Mughal times. Frisked again. Police or military with machine guns, behind barricades, but all pretty chilled out. 50/50 smiling. Started roaming the grounds... this place in it's day would have been extremely regal in a beautifully Asian way. All Arab inspired domes and arches combine with abundant gardens and water fountains etc. Water was pumped from the river and a moat / aqua duct combination. Spread the water throughout the fort to help keep the fort cool. Stunning white marble and scenes reminiscent of somewhere between Ali baba and The King and I. Plus as our new added animal bonus there were these little squirrel type things getting around. Little guys.
We continued with our one sided stare off fest as we moved around to the degree that we were fast becoming very self conscious. Three teenagers pulled us over and asked if they could take photos of us. Not sure what the deal was, whether just curious, whether they wanted to pass onto there friends to take us out latter or whether Soph maybe looked similar to a porn star. ( a Dutch girl cycling around the world identified that this had been suggested to her at one stage, not because she looked particularly trashy, but rather the prevalence in some sectors that euro girls are less chaste then asian ones) thankfully a little further round after more stare offs a extended family stopped us to enquire / and compare family details, what we liked to eat, what faith etc etc. All with lots of smiles and serious interest. He identified himself as muslim so we left out the pork factor. He quite liked beef, chicken, goat, dog, horse, ox, and buffalo however. He did retract Horse as had confused the English with ox. I am sure that Soph let out a secret sigh of relief. The family were great, I hope we have the opportunity to meet many more in similar way.
On way around grounds Soph piled out the camera but felt very self conscious. Staring was starting to get to her.
Outside the red fort we met a rick shaw guide who was very compelling, plus I was keen to fast track our discoveries as street location especially in the side streets is tricky.
He turned out to be a legend. Though with the Lonely planet pre warned traits of commission targeting and add on sale perspective. Still it blew both our minds where he could and would get his rickshaw and again the point and shoot politics of confronting traffic both on the bike and latter on foot. People are amazing obliging and in a crazy way very fluid. Via guide we explored the street markets, spice, jewelry, partha, shoe, sari etc etc. All with defined streets and conglomeration of vendors with the ensuing senses commensurate with the defined trade. There were also carpenters who sat on acknowledged street corners with there tools awaiting commissions.
We explored the Muslim and Hindi sections of the old city and visited both the Friday mosque and oldest Jain temple. Both impressive in their own right. The call to prayers and size of the afternoon worship compared to the silent and artistic beauty of the pre Mughal Jain temple. Monkeys also hanging out in the trees behind the temple. Just lazying around going about their good times.
From the top of the Spice markets we looked over both a wholesale papadum and rose petal drying operations set up on the top of roofs.
In the background old teak and stone buildings and the ever present haze of Delhi.
Met on the stairs on way to roof terrace first three Holy puppies then closely followed on the next flight Holy mother dog. Puppies took an alarming like to Sophie on the way down and though I did hear the sound of a yelp this did not deter them in the least playing until we left their level.
Being with a guide assisted not only direction but also allowed us to garner semi acceptance and comfort. When in a strange city a downward spiral can be quickly commenced when not moving confidently and on with a purpose. In Delhi with abstract pavement and motor madness this can be challenging to achieve. We are definitely getting better at crossing even busy roads.
We also noted again the positive interest that results in us attempting local gratuities, names etc.. Poorly and in some cases blank reception but generally positive.
Soph bought a local top to assist in greater assimilation but I talked her out of sari. Not sure on a bike that we want to carry an extra 6mtrs of cloth. Paid premium most likely but painless and still cheap.
Past Halal meat markets and back to Chandni Chowk metro. We had been rickshaw wandering for four and a half hrs. (we did offer several times to cycle for him, but smilingly declined. Especially when offered by Soph)
Back to metro, though busy hr post work crush (Delhi style). One wrong turn and a couple of dark alleys back to our hotel. People on street at 8ish in the dark still friendly. In fact Delhi pumps on strongly until at least 8pm. It looks different at night lit up, no visual haze and hidden holes/earth/mess etc. Grabbed our first coffees at Cafe Coffee Day a local chain very western and semi western pricing. Acceptable coffee though which is great. 75rup espresso. I hope to find a good chai place tomorrow. Passed one today but not quite confident.
Then home to hotel. Smiling guard out front. I am sure secret smiles inside but outward smile warm via eyes. We flat lined with communication on day one. Blank eyes and smiles when trying to get street confirmations. Still homely when you are clutching at things to put your hat on.
Train to Ludhiana slightly trickier then expected so have lined up for Sat morning. 1AC so we won't be sitting in the baggage racks but early in morning so will be interesting. 5hr ride NNW of Delhi. Tomorrow we will explore Connaught Place and Chawri Bazar.
Love to all.