Wander Mall Rd trying to locate a good looking dhaba in which to get breakfast on the way to the bike store. Mall Rd is full on because you are dealing with pedestrians, cows, dogs, cars, bikes, taxis and buses versus on the Lalal it is just pedestrians albeit more, still the odd cow, dog, occasional motorbike and in a smaller alley. Mall road also houses the taxi and bus stands increasing the hub of commuters, vehicles and travel touts.
Last night we passed a little shack which had old wooden tables, walls but also an earthen hearth. The hearth one of which we saw being completed in Kasauni is a rendered surface on sides and top with two circular access holes on the longer side. At least one has fuel placed in it, not sure whether the other can be used as an oven. The kana (food) did not look all that tempting although the gypsy indian looking older lady was smiling as showing us. So we opt for chai. Safe out. Chai was great.
As wander back towards the bike store, we spot an aloo fritter selling dhaba. Easy to spot as similar to samosa or prantha dhabas the action is all out the front so you know what is sold and whether in action, ie fresh. We order two fritters each which sit on the edge of a super sized low angled wok over a gas flame and with mustard oil. Post ordering the part cooked fritter is flattened a little and slid back into the oil to warm, when satisfied the cook then pulls out, drains and then serves with channa and some spices / fresh coriander on top. Great taste but makes us concerned for Indian diets if eating at dhabas all the time, the cholesterol and sodium versus vegetable content would be high. So many Indians are so physically active, offsetting some of the effect but for those inactive working in offices the diet would have to build up.
At the bike store try and explain what is required to get to the spoke but the owner has partial understanding, but is very confident. His repair guy does not reflect the same confidence. We chose this bike store because it looked active in repairs and was the first store where I have seen bikes with rear derailleurs in India, albeit non Shimano / SRAM and a lot more chunky. After trying a locking that is not the right size, the owner suggests alternate plans of action such as among others welding the old spoke to a new end, all of which we decline not being desperate enough, nor wanting to short a solution.
Post taking the rim back to our room, we head up to explore the Lalal bizarre a little more. It is the longest continuous non car bazaar that we have seen yet, I think it would even give the mall at Shimla a run for it's money, though targeting a slightly different market. Shimla is definitely more touristy than Almora. The mall at Shimla too has sections with stores only on one side and the paved mall itself is broader. Versus Lalal is in parts especially during the late afternoon a constant dodge. Because of the cows and dogs it also pays to inspect the paving as you dodge. There is no open drain on lalal which together with the street cleaners working their way along the length and pulling woven baskets with trash, mainly paper and plastic makes the bazaar quite clean. It is still amazing though to see people just throw trash with no further thought, including the shop owners.
At the top end of the mall there is a temple called the Nanda Devi temple. The temple complex is made up of two large sikhara. Engraved with stories some of which are definitely of the AO variety and would make Larry Flynt blush. Some of the more garden variety with animal chase scenes etc.
We loop back to the other end of the Bazaar and down onto the mall road below. There are lots of cool side stepped alleys that wind through down to the main road below. Three floored buildings squeezed and irregular fitting spaces on the way, but many designed and some great colonial looking buildings spread throughout.
On the way through the Bazaar we stop at every tailor we pass to see whether they postal pack. To mail a parcel we are required to have the parcel fabric (calico) encased with a pocket sewn into the side for declaration paper work. Our ability to explain our needs to the tailors and their obvious lack of recognition is depressing. Lack of cycling brings ups and downs.
Finally after visiting four to five tailors and being directed to the post office by nearly every one we find a small place on mall rd. Three staff fill the space with two belt run antique Singer looking sewing machines. The smiley older man (Mr Khani) whose sister is sitting behind acknowledges the request immediately and asks us to sit whist he sews up the package. Excellent. 50 rup and several photos later we head for the Post whose opening times are 10 - 1.30 and then 2 - 4pm.
The Post office (GPO) is huge and down below mall road, more stairs. We enter and are directed to the far end of a long serving bench, similar to a bank. The inside is light, airy and postal, no surprises. The guy behind the counter accepts the package for express mail but after leaving the building with the package and coming back 5 mins later identifies that we have to put a street address, not a P.O box. Frustrating as we sent to the same address from Dharamasala. Live and learn we move on and get the package sent, which is at least a couple of grams out of our packs. 800rup for just over 1kg.
In search of Christmas spirit we decide to try and track down a church. We are directed towards the top of Mall Rd which from the junction with Kosi Rd climbs up the hill. Still with stores and build up all the way to the top. In the dark we are uncertain but spot some christmas lights up on the hill so continue. In the darkness we can just make out a spire so confirm our location. Using a head torch we wander through what we thought initially might be the cemetery but is headstone less. The church is locked up and there are no signs of action so we head down on the opposite side. Following some enquiries at a house with a nativity set, where it is identified there is no mass planned for tomorrow, we're directed to the rectors house.
The rector invites us in and than takes us up to the church which he has opened from the inside, caretaker obviously sleeps inside. We are given a impromptu prayer session in Hindi which includes cycles, sister Sophie and brother David prior to the collection plate being passed around. Confused by the whole experience we don't respond and the collection ceases. Then down to the rectors house where post tea and Christmas cake we try and ask whether we can donate to the local families most effected by the landslips. The rector identifies that they have not been paid in two years and that we should give him the donation to be distributed. A little disappointed we identify that we will see him tomorrow at the Christmas service.
Back down to the Glory where we try out the Butter chicken, aloo tomato curry and naan. Delicious. Back to the hotel and bed, no expectation of Santa.