Saturday, December 11, 2010

Motion sickness (Saturday 11 December)

The morning spent on the train is too much for Soph who spends quality time in the entrance corridor followed by more quality time at the basin in said corridor. By this time I am also feeling a little on the woozy side but holding it together. We have a uncertain morning as between the corridor and lack of station announcements on the train, nor printed timetable with stops we are uncertain of our distance from Haridwar and therefore check when the train pulls to a stop.

At 9.30am we pull in to the station and head anxiously to the checkin carriage. Where a group of staff are yanking hessian wrapped boxes out of the train using wool bale style hooks to grab hold. We are unable to see the bikes and are concern as to whether loaded successfully. A whistle goes off and so we increase our range of communication. Another carriage is opened and a motor bike in the door way is yanked and maneuvered fairly heavily onto the station, followed by large hessian wrapped boxes that are rolled out of the carriage and groan and creak when they hit the station. No fragile stickers were available at the station. The whistle blows again.

The guys however locate the bikes up and to the side of all the large boxes and they handle them carefully onto the platform. My heart starts beating again and post thanks we roll a short distance remove the hessian and do an inspection. Everything looks good and it feels a bit like pass the parcel as we unwrapped the various hessian threads, all the while building an interested crowd.

Bob is reconstructed a little further down the station in a less exposed position as it requires many small bags to be opened and lots of gear rearranged. Again a crowd but at a greater distance that is appreciated. The station has overpass stairs to the main entry / exit with thankfully a perfect ramp, allowing us to roll the reconstructed bikes / bob easily off the station. Roll to the enquiries counter where Soph heads to try and obtain a map of Haridwar. The Uttrakhand tourism office is closed.

We hit the streets with a near casualty on the busy street outside the station, u turns are not quick when you have a bob. Still the unseen oncoming cyclist's brakes worked perfectly so that was mutually survivable. Post chai we locate the hotel we had found on tripadvisor. It is pretty flash but after the last couple of nights we are looking for some down time and this looks like it will fit nicely. The bed is the most comfortable since Kasauli. Unfortunately their advertised wifi is down though an Internet connection is available at the front counter. According to the manager wifi is down all over Haridwar....what the...

We stick in some laundry and then hit the streets using a rickshaw to gain sense of the streets and assist in avoiding touts and general approaches. We head to a Lonely planet recommended Lassi place, Prakash Lok prior to heading down to the Ganges. The lassi is fantastic is Sophs eyes much like Harris Farm yoghurt. The river is impressive as is a massive shiva statue on one of the far banks, the streets are teaming with pilgrims, Indian tourists, trinket sellers and a range of beggars. We do a bridge circuit heading over to an island prior to returning via an alternate bridge the return. This takes us over past the section of river where pilgrims are recommended to bathe as this act is believed to wash away your sins. The Ganges is fast flowing and this section appears to be slightly deviated, through a section with stairs on both sides. There are hanging chains as the last line of defense under the bridge lest the current get too much and pull an unwitting pilgrim towards the main body of water.

We pass official donation collectors who act extremely predatory and when given 50rup to the cause identify that a greater amount would be better, when explained it is 50 or nothing (for we have been giving money directly to one or two people on the way) the money is taken and the receipt issued. We are then approached by a further two collectors one who states that he is from a different charity. We wave them off and head away from the religious site quickly.

I wish we had a camera, the road up from the area toward temple road looks like armageddon has been and gone having been ripped to shreds all the way across to the stores on the sides of the once was a road, still this does not stop rickshaws and pedestrians from working their way across. We turn the top corner onto temple road and the carnage is even greater at the far end of the road the sun soon to set is a crimson red echoing similar colour to that of a bushfire effected sun back home.

We are both trashed and so make for the hotel Soph from not sleeping and I from non Delhi belly my first serious case in India. We retire for the evening to try and sleep our way to recovery.