Town was pretty chilled out for New years, not that we were complaining as we had to get up early to catch bus back to Kathmandu to Fedex some gear home following receipt of Australian Customs confirmation and Steripen warranty claim approval emails last night. Back up to bus park opposite the post office and within five minutes heading back west. 50rup pp not bad. The ride taking about 25mins but bail early at Bhadrakali as some sort of event is happening and traffic is backed up. Walk through crowds to Kantipath before heading to a cafe for breakfast and wifi waiting for Fedex to open.
Drawn out process at Fedex because uncertainty of how to return the Australian items to Australia without incurring duty or GST. Communication between country offices not very effective. Still we were able to forward on the package and will if necessary deal with any communication based issues from India.
Turn up a Quenchua to exchange our faulty Steripen but the guys had failed to tell us one piece of information which meant we could not successfully exchange. As a result we had to re email Steripen but with the knowledge that we were unlikely to hear back in time. Aaaaagh.
Grab lunch then reboard a return bus to Bhaktapur over near Bag Bazaar. 25 rup pp return. Bargain. Return trip more drawn out but still relative low hassle. Biggest issues trying to return communication with the guy in front who was mumbling a mixture of nepali and english at us.
Back at Bhaktapur and masses of people were leaving so we assumed we had missed the afternoons festivities. Head to the hotel before wandering back down to Khalna Tole or at least attempt to as there are people everywhere. Take a few side alleys and eventually squeeze into a side viewing area not far from the temple but also not under the temporary Lingam tree trunk which is supposed to be lowered tonight.
Following a few things happening, or so we believed as we could not see, the temple was vacated and the young guys in the crowd took up the slack on the tug of war ropes hanging from the Lingam. Tension was applied in three directions, the fourth being the location of the permanent temple. In taking up tension a few guys were dragged into the sky as the ropes became taught but it was all part and parcel of the activities by the look. Tiles were scrapped off the side of the temple as one sides rope brushed the edge.
The massive trunk edged from side to side marginally with great cheers from the crowd whenever it made a sudden movement in any direction. People were spread across the Tole either actively engaged in the activity or spectating close to the action. You could again feel the excitement in the crowd but we were uncertain as to the process of getting the trunk down as no one was clearing out of the way and the three way tug of war was continuing. Then a clearly definable snap was heard to an audible intake of air by the crowd, but still no one appeared to be clearing out. I was uncertain as to whether this was normal or unexpected, bad luck or good form. I had alternating visions of the thing falling directly onto the temple or into the packed crowd uncertain again of whether this would be taken as a bad or good sign.
A second later and the pressure became too much and with a final snap the top of the trunk with cross branches fell away from the temple directly into the crowd. Bloody hell. Again similar to last night I was awaiting a wailing confirming my visual perception that someone had to have be taken out by the falling tree, but no. Instead there was a surging mass onto the snapped trunk to try and prize some gash of timber from the fissure, with guys heading off holding firewood sized chunks in excitement over their heads.
The temple priests having spectated the partial destruction of their temple and the near death of many remounted the awaiting chariot. Again ropes were taken up by the guys in the crowd and to the urging of those on the chariot slowly drew the chariot forward heading back up hill. Apparently for the next day the chariot would be dragged back up to Taumadhi square where on the final day of the seven day festival it would be dismantled and the wooden pieces scattered through the city at holy sites awaiting the festivities next year.
By this stage we decided to clear out and again made our way up to Taumadhi square passing as we did the baby chariot being dragged like primary aged kids being egged on by teenagers. Training starts early. The chariot was seemingly headed for the river bank when we went past but by the time we were back up to the top square some young guys were bearing the effigy from the baby chariot on a palanquin half crazed through the crowd. People seemed content to just catch up and chat with friends all over the square and the weather had settled from earlier grey sky.
Dinner at the Watshala Garden restaurant which is set in a quiet newari styled courtyard off durbar square. The food and atmosphere was fantastic. Nepali set was a standout. Back to the hotel to prepare for hitting the road again tomorrow.
Drawn out process at Fedex because uncertainty of how to return the Australian items to Australia without incurring duty or GST. Communication between country offices not very effective. Still we were able to forward on the package and will if necessary deal with any communication based issues from India.
Turn up a Quenchua to exchange our faulty Steripen but the guys had failed to tell us one piece of information which meant we could not successfully exchange. As a result we had to re email Steripen but with the knowledge that we were unlikely to hear back in time. Aaaaagh.
Grab lunch then reboard a return bus to Bhaktapur over near Bag Bazaar. 25 rup pp return. Bargain. Return trip more drawn out but still relative low hassle. Biggest issues trying to return communication with the guy in front who was mumbling a mixture of nepali and english at us.
Back at Bhaktapur and masses of people were leaving so we assumed we had missed the afternoons festivities. Head to the hotel before wandering back down to Khalna Tole or at least attempt to as there are people everywhere. Take a few side alleys and eventually squeeze into a side viewing area not far from the temple but also not under the temporary Lingam tree trunk which is supposed to be lowered tonight.
Following a few things happening, or so we believed as we could not see, the temple was vacated and the young guys in the crowd took up the slack on the tug of war ropes hanging from the Lingam. Tension was applied in three directions, the fourth being the location of the permanent temple. In taking up tension a few guys were dragged into the sky as the ropes became taught but it was all part and parcel of the activities by the look. Tiles were scrapped off the side of the temple as one sides rope brushed the edge.
The massive trunk edged from side to side marginally with great cheers from the crowd whenever it made a sudden movement in any direction. People were spread across the Tole either actively engaged in the activity or spectating close to the action. You could again feel the excitement in the crowd but we were uncertain as to the process of getting the trunk down as no one was clearing out of the way and the three way tug of war was continuing. Then a clearly definable snap was heard to an audible intake of air by the crowd, but still no one appeared to be clearing out. I was uncertain as to whether this was normal or unexpected, bad luck or good form. I had alternating visions of the thing falling directly onto the temple or into the packed crowd uncertain again of whether this would be taken as a bad or good sign.
A second later and the pressure became too much and with a final snap the top of the trunk with cross branches fell away from the temple directly into the crowd. Bloody hell. Again similar to last night I was awaiting a wailing confirming my visual perception that someone had to have be taken out by the falling tree, but no. Instead there was a surging mass onto the snapped trunk to try and prize some gash of timber from the fissure, with guys heading off holding firewood sized chunks in excitement over their heads.
The temple priests having spectated the partial destruction of their temple and the near death of many remounted the awaiting chariot. Again ropes were taken up by the guys in the crowd and to the urging of those on the chariot slowly drew the chariot forward heading back up hill. Apparently for the next day the chariot would be dragged back up to Taumadhi square where on the final day of the seven day festival it would be dismantled and the wooden pieces scattered through the city at holy sites awaiting the festivities next year.
By this stage we decided to clear out and again made our way up to Taumadhi square passing as we did the baby chariot being dragged like primary aged kids being egged on by teenagers. Training starts early. The chariot was seemingly headed for the river bank when we went past but by the time we were back up to the top square some young guys were bearing the effigy from the baby chariot on a palanquin half crazed through the crowd. People seemed content to just catch up and chat with friends all over the square and the weather had settled from earlier grey sky.
Dinner at the Watshala Garden restaurant which is set in a quiet newari styled courtyard off durbar square. The food and atmosphere was fantastic. Nepali set was a standout. Back to the hotel to prepare for hitting the road again tomorrow.
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| Bhaktapur |
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