Grab breakfast at the hotel to facilitate an early get away. Gear all ready to go. Bikes feel good as we roll through the brick paved streets before dropping down toward the Hanumante river and beyond it the Arniko Highway. Turn left once we hit the highway heading east towards Dhulikhel.
Join the flow of traffic which is light but consistent. Very quickly climbing through rolling hills past red bricked buildings, a few brickworks and green fields. Stop quickly at a small store to confirm our location with the three older guys sitting out front. The road becomes increasingly curvy and gradually getting steeper. As we climb Soph spots the massive bronze colored statue of Shiva to our left on the ridge overlooking the valley below. Final climb up and over the ridge before dropping a little into a new valley. Couple of sudden swerves and braking required by us both as some people the world over drive like idiots. Still it's these small things that you forget about when you aren't on the road for a while.
The valley road ripples through a few medium sized towns before we climb a small hill and are in Dhulikhel. Signposted turn in english makes things easier just before entering town. A storm is starting to gather to the south.
Just over a small crest we pull to the side as kids are playing in a sunken tank (brick lined communal pool) and it appears clean. First one we have seen in this state and it appears quite a community gatherer.
The road falls before again swinging up past a medical college and then onto what feels like a whole new valley falling away from us and to the east. It feels great, few cars, expansive views through trees and clean. The dark clouds are still about but holding to the south as we swing around long looping bends on a new smooth feeling highway. It only gets better though as the road descends to the valley floor and the air feels crisp from the approaching storm.
The valley is high sided and follows the river called the Rosi at this stage. Prayer flags flutter in the wind as we pass a rock carved and painted mani with a green tara artwork on a corner. When side valleys to our right open up towards the road large cement sections have been laid and signposts identify them as floodways. Again it would be impressive to see them at peak use. The river bed here is quite wide and a large light blue metal suspension bridge sits high above the water to our left.
We ride along on this brand new highway questioning why no one is using it whilst counting down the kms to Nepalthok. We get to 1km and then roll a short while later into a small village with the raised highway passing through. On the left of the village are river flats with crops in abundance. Several buses are lined up with varying degree of fullness. We cycle through uncertain of whether we are in Nepalthok yet. Next road sign has Nepalthok 0km, well I guess that answers it.
Unfortunately just where the road sign reads 0 a security fence covers the whole road with road closed signs. What the.. Admittedly our map does have the highway from here to Kolkot as "under constr", still we spoke with a couple of people regarding the road being open and what kind of road. All were positive replies. We turn around and head back to the bus stop to grab some Khana. Veg dal bhat is on offer and is accepted gratefully. We have a great discussion with various people in the dinner. There appears however some confusion over the new bob flag with more people asking whether it is the Australian flag. I mean seriously, I can understand not recognizing a nations flag, but to think that a country would just have a smiley face on their symbol of identity. It is kind of cool though that someone would.
After lunch we confirm how we head east, apparently there is a diversion road running alongside the river. The road starts off like a standard diversion as we cycle through the fields. A couple of hurdles being the odd irrigation ditch. The first one I looked at appeared to be less then half a meter wide so I took it at speed. Unfortunately I had not fully appreciated the potential depth as a wall of water engulfed first the bike and then the bob as our momentum carried us through but a touch less dry than before. The next one we approached with much greater respect. The diversion road then shadowed the guys finalising the concrete foundations, many of whom took up spectator spots as we passed, especially following the ditch incident.
It was quite nice being down by the river as the diversion took us back up onto the road in-progress before we dropped back down through less fields and more flat bank. The novelty was not to last however as we approached a ridge line which ran all the way down to the river directly in front of us. This forced us up above the proposed new road's line and over the ridge. The temporary road switchbacked but steeply away from the river and up towards the dry ridge high above. Very soon we were pushing as with the weight, loose road surface and gradient, momentum was difficult to maintain.
Both luggage systems are fine when the bikes are pulling, but pushing is a real dog. Especially in the heat, with cleat shoes and on loose fine grit and large rock surface. Again we had the occasional spectators as some of the climb required flag man at either end due to the narrowness of the temporary road. Soph even had one of the guys assist by pushing the back at one stage, no offers coming my way unfortunately. Passed by a couple of trucks and as the switch backs continued it was increasingly steep. A bus passing had us right on the edge of the drop off. Final push up to the ridge line and we met the passengers who had gotten off to follow the path to the village further along the ridge to the south. One old lady cackling whilst making pushing signs, critics in every crowd.
Once reaching the ridge it was a fast decent back to the river floor quickly followed by another session of push and drag. Soph was vowing never again to cycle on a road marked "under constr". "But its the most direct route" was met with rolled eyes and the I would kill you but then I would be here by myself look. The next session was not as bad as the first but accumulated very draining physically and mentally. The bikes were squealing from a mixture of water, mud and fine dust. Chains, derailleurs and disk brakes not appreciating the route. Down at the bottom again we are whistled at which on the site has been not unusual. In Nepal you get used to people whistling in the same way as in India people honking. Many officials appear to be armed with whistles.
We cycle up and the only reason he has been whistling and waving aggressively to come to him was to suggest we take a rest for ten. Between frustration build up and concern over the time I communicated that we had to keep on moving, which was received with seeming surprise. Was not getting good vibes anyway, but may have just been annoyance altered perception.
Not long afterward when the sun was easing and the storm had drifted away we found ourselves rolling again through mud rendered buildings and green agriculture. Further enhancing the feeling of tranquility, besides the now only rolling hard packed dirt road, were the large peepal trees with boughs stretching wide over the road below. Leaves rustling in the breeze and glimmering in the afternoon sun. Stop in one village and an older couple sitting outside their store beam whilst we communicate what we have been through. Younger people arrive on the scene and broaden our range of topics whilst enjoying the conversation.
Roll through another village and the road bends sharply down from the ridge to the fields and the river bank below. The fields and the surrounding grass are all green and further large trees and close nestled ordered houses give the small village a nice feel.
We attract a small crowd of kids at varying heights and personalities. They run alongside the bikes before we decide to have a chat. Discuss varying topics and the topic of baschu or where we will sit/live tonight. When they hear that we are heading for Kolkot, varying reasons why we should not cycle on emerge, "it is long way, very hard, very dangerous, you sit here?". This is repeated several times, in slightly varying forms.
We eventually decide to camp on the river flats. Whether as a result of the psyche out session by a bunch of eight to ten year olds or because the river bank looks quite inviting I am not sure. Without thermorests we are pretty reliant on soft ground for a reasonable nights rest if we camp. The two person tent is pretty cosy anyway (similar to a macpac tent I borrowed off friends ages ago, 1.5kg) so we could feasibly lay all our clothes out to add a bit of ground insulation. Kids all camp around on the rocks to watch the tent construction and a little latter join in the activity. It is quite nice. The reality though of any time out in the next 12 hrs is increasingly remote as the kids wait for the next activity to commence. Take the opportunity to clean one of the bikes. A couple of cows are lead out to graze on the river flats, we had noticed a few dried pats around.
A couple of older people float by one a young Nepali engaged as a surveyor by the Japanese partnered aid who are constructing the road. Then a guy with his young son who is on his way down to the river to bathe. He invites us to stay at his house and eat with his family. Initially surprised and uncertain, not to mention our tent was up and we had already adjusted to camping, but it was too nice an offer to refuse. So we set about packing up the tent and redistributing our gear onto the bikes whilst the other guys went down to the river. We also took the opportunity to clean up in the flow, though close inspection even this high up is worthwhile as I spotted a dead dog stuck in the rocks just near the ebbed current where I was considering to bathe. Move a little further up stream where the flow is constant.
We roll the bikes back up to the top of the s bend that we had previously come down and then in off the road past another double story house to our hosts mother's home. The view back across the trees and the fields to the river and far valley wall was fantastic.
We were given our own room upstairs, previously our hosts, with the option of either bed or the floor. Following dropping off the bags and securing the bikes we settled in on the front yard with the guys and the next door neighbor. The Mother and Wife of our host were busy organising tea in the darkened lower floor kitchen. Flick through photos and try and find pictures of Ayres Rock on iPad as the guy from next door is a teacher and part of the curriculum covers Australia.
Dinner is served on the rendered floor in the kitchen. Everyone other than I sit on the floor on woven mats. Tea is one of the best Nepali meal sets we have had yet and includes home made dhindo. The food is served and top ups provided by the mother and wife who eat later. After a very large meal we head up the inside ladder to the room upstairs. Once our heads hit the pillows sleep comes very very quickly.
Join the flow of traffic which is light but consistent. Very quickly climbing through rolling hills past red bricked buildings, a few brickworks and green fields. Stop quickly at a small store to confirm our location with the three older guys sitting out front. The road becomes increasingly curvy and gradually getting steeper. As we climb Soph spots the massive bronze colored statue of Shiva to our left on the ridge overlooking the valley below. Final climb up and over the ridge before dropping a little into a new valley. Couple of sudden swerves and braking required by us both as some people the world over drive like idiots. Still it's these small things that you forget about when you aren't on the road for a while.
The valley road ripples through a few medium sized towns before we climb a small hill and are in Dhulikhel. Signposted turn in english makes things easier just before entering town. A storm is starting to gather to the south.
 |
| From Bhaktapur to Bardibus |
Just over a small crest we pull to the side as kids are playing in a sunken tank (brick lined communal pool) and it appears clean. First one we have seen in this state and it appears quite a community gatherer.
The road falls before again swinging up past a medical college and then onto what feels like a whole new valley falling away from us and to the east. It feels great, few cars, expansive views through trees and clean. The dark clouds are still about but holding to the south as we swing around long looping bends on a new smooth feeling highway. It only gets better though as the road descends to the valley floor and the air feels crisp from the approaching storm.
The valley is high sided and follows the river called the Rosi at this stage. Prayer flags flutter in the wind as we pass a rock carved and painted mani with a green tara artwork on a corner. When side valleys to our right open up towards the road large cement sections have been laid and signposts identify them as floodways. Again it would be impressive to see them at peak use. The river bed here is quite wide and a large light blue metal suspension bridge sits high above the water to our left.
We ride along on this brand new highway questioning why no one is using it whilst counting down the kms to Nepalthok. We get to 1km and then roll a short while later into a small village with the raised highway passing through. On the left of the village are river flats with crops in abundance. Several buses are lined up with varying degree of fullness. We cycle through uncertain of whether we are in Nepalthok yet. Next road sign has Nepalthok 0km, well I guess that answers it.
Unfortunately just where the road sign reads 0 a security fence covers the whole road with road closed signs. What the.. Admittedly our map does have the highway from here to Kolkot as "under constr", still we spoke with a couple of people regarding the road being open and what kind of road. All were positive replies. We turn around and head back to the bus stop to grab some Khana. Veg dal bhat is on offer and is accepted gratefully. We have a great discussion with various people in the dinner. There appears however some confusion over the new bob flag with more people asking whether it is the Australian flag. I mean seriously, I can understand not recognizing a nations flag, but to think that a country would just have a smiley face on their symbol of identity. It is kind of cool though that someone would.
After lunch we confirm how we head east, apparently there is a diversion road running alongside the river. The road starts off like a standard diversion as we cycle through the fields. A couple of hurdles being the odd irrigation ditch. The first one I looked at appeared to be less then half a meter wide so I took it at speed. Unfortunately I had not fully appreciated the potential depth as a wall of water engulfed first the bike and then the bob as our momentum carried us through but a touch less dry than before. The next one we approached with much greater respect. The diversion road then shadowed the guys finalising the concrete foundations, many of whom took up spectator spots as we passed, especially following the ditch incident.
It was quite nice being down by the river as the diversion took us back up onto the road in-progress before we dropped back down through less fields and more flat bank. The novelty was not to last however as we approached a ridge line which ran all the way down to the river directly in front of us. This forced us up above the proposed new road's line and over the ridge. The temporary road switchbacked but steeply away from the river and up towards the dry ridge high above. Very soon we were pushing as with the weight, loose road surface and gradient, momentum was difficult to maintain.
Both luggage systems are fine when the bikes are pulling, but pushing is a real dog. Especially in the heat, with cleat shoes and on loose fine grit and large rock surface. Again we had the occasional spectators as some of the climb required flag man at either end due to the narrowness of the temporary road. Soph even had one of the guys assist by pushing the back at one stage, no offers coming my way unfortunately. Passed by a couple of trucks and as the switch backs continued it was increasingly steep. A bus passing had us right on the edge of the drop off. Final push up to the ridge line and we met the passengers who had gotten off to follow the path to the village further along the ridge to the south. One old lady cackling whilst making pushing signs, critics in every crowd.
Once reaching the ridge it was a fast decent back to the river floor quickly followed by another session of push and drag. Soph was vowing never again to cycle on a road marked "under constr". "But its the most direct route" was met with rolled eyes and the I would kill you but then I would be here by myself look. The next session was not as bad as the first but accumulated very draining physically and mentally. The bikes were squealing from a mixture of water, mud and fine dust. Chains, derailleurs and disk brakes not appreciating the route. Down at the bottom again we are whistled at which on the site has been not unusual. In Nepal you get used to people whistling in the same way as in India people honking. Many officials appear to be armed with whistles.
We cycle up and the only reason he has been whistling and waving aggressively to come to him was to suggest we take a rest for ten. Between frustration build up and concern over the time I communicated that we had to keep on moving, which was received with seeming surprise. Was not getting good vibes anyway, but may have just been annoyance altered perception.
Not long afterward when the sun was easing and the storm had drifted away we found ourselves rolling again through mud rendered buildings and green agriculture. Further enhancing the feeling of tranquility, besides the now only rolling hard packed dirt road, were the large peepal trees with boughs stretching wide over the road below. Leaves rustling in the breeze and glimmering in the afternoon sun. Stop in one village and an older couple sitting outside their store beam whilst we communicate what we have been through. Younger people arrive on the scene and broaden our range of topics whilst enjoying the conversation.
Roll through another village and the road bends sharply down from the ridge to the fields and the river bank below. The fields and the surrounding grass are all green and further large trees and close nestled ordered houses give the small village a nice feel.
 |
| From Bhaktapur to Bardibus |
We attract a small crowd of kids at varying heights and personalities. They run alongside the bikes before we decide to have a chat. Discuss varying topics and the topic of baschu or where we will sit/live tonight. When they hear that we are heading for Kolkot, varying reasons why we should not cycle on emerge, "it is long way, very hard, very dangerous, you sit here?". This is repeated several times, in slightly varying forms.
We eventually decide to camp on the river flats. Whether as a result of the psyche out session by a bunch of eight to ten year olds or because the river bank looks quite inviting I am not sure. Without thermorests we are pretty reliant on soft ground for a reasonable nights rest if we camp. The two person tent is pretty cosy anyway (similar to a macpac tent I borrowed off friends ages ago, 1.5kg) so we could feasibly lay all our clothes out to add a bit of ground insulation. Kids all camp around on the rocks to watch the tent construction and a little latter join in the activity. It is quite nice. The reality though of any time out in the next 12 hrs is increasingly remote as the kids wait for the next activity to commence. Take the opportunity to clean one of the bikes. A couple of cows are lead out to graze on the river flats, we had noticed a few dried pats around.
A couple of older people float by one a young Nepali engaged as a surveyor by the Japanese partnered aid who are constructing the road. Then a guy with his young son who is on his way down to the river to bathe. He invites us to stay at his house and eat with his family. Initially surprised and uncertain, not to mention our tent was up and we had already adjusted to camping, but it was too nice an offer to refuse. So we set about packing up the tent and redistributing our gear onto the bikes whilst the other guys went down to the river. We also took the opportunity to clean up in the flow, though close inspection even this high up is worthwhile as I spotted a dead dog stuck in the rocks just near the ebbed current where I was considering to bathe. Move a little further up stream where the flow is constant.
We roll the bikes back up to the top of the s bend that we had previously come down and then in off the road past another double story house to our hosts mother's home. The view back across the trees and the fields to the river and far valley wall was fantastic.
We were given our own room upstairs, previously our hosts, with the option of either bed or the floor. Following dropping off the bags and securing the bikes we settled in on the front yard with the guys and the next door neighbor. The Mother and Wife of our host were busy organising tea in the darkened lower floor kitchen. Flick through photos and try and find pictures of Ayres Rock on iPad as the guy from next door is a teacher and part of the curriculum covers Australia.
Dinner is served on the rendered floor in the kitchen. Everyone other than I sit on the floor on woven mats. Tea is one of the best Nepali meal sets we have had yet and includes home made dhindo. The food is served and top ups provided by the mother and wife who eat later. After a very large meal we head up the inside ladder to the room upstairs. Once our heads hit the pillows sleep comes very very quickly.
 |
| Bhaktapur to Bardibus |
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