Leave the room, placing the condom from the tractor guys in the top drawer of the set of drawers. Breakfast in the hotel, which when named Beenayak could be interesting. The options limited so go with three lots of toast and chiya. The restaurant looks like their was a party to the early hours the only thing missing is the bodies. Apparently the owners father had died though.
Once more cycle out of Birtamod and through Charali to the Nepali eastern terai border town of Kakarbhitta. A mass of rickshaws, vans and a few larger trucks initially identifying the border edge before focusing on the large road covering archway. Immigration office initially hard to spot due to all the action and because no one else had to go there, but then recognizable both by it's signage in red writing and color as all government buildings in Nepal are a similar sandy colour. The staff as warm and relaxed as the staff on the western terai. Checkout a painless ten minutes with no search, a smile and invite to return.
Feeling tingly with excitement roll the bikes down the hill and across the bridge over the border river to the indian border town of Pantianki. Again have trouble spotting the right immigration building but directed by a couple of officials to the cottage styled building set back from the road on the right. Again we were the only guys there. More forms to fill in and a little more bureaucratic but fast and painless. No checking of bags on this side either. Just a bit of a discussion about the bikes and the fact they have disc brakes.
Out onto the road and it is chaos with traffic backed up in both directions with people, bikes and rickshaws going any which way to try and get through, in many cases by seeking their own express route making it worse for those patiently sitting in line. Having been in this situation before we through decorum out the window and joined in crossing to the pedestrian strip on the other side of the road and joining the weaving, if a little more patiently and possibly politely then some of our road compatriots. It took us longer to work through the traffic to the T intersection than it had in both immigration offices combined. Still having been exposed to the way life works in India it could only bring smiles to your face as people smiled, stared and inquired along the way. Even received a pat on the back by one older couple.
At the T intersection turned left which felt wrong as our visible expectation from the map was to head east not north. The road was correct however and felt fantastic not because it was significantly superior to the road just left in Nepal but because of small differences, a marked break down lane, English road signs and smiling inquiring faces rather than surprised incredulous and occasionally crazy laughter. Other aspects such as the age and condition of vehicles, the crazy honking swerving head on driving by bus drivers and an increase in road side advertising slowly also seeping in.
Welcomed back to India having pulled over into the shade of a large tree. Discussed in very good english where we had been and where we were going which was really nice. It felt like returning to something or somewhere that you recognised and knew your place in. Sometimes on the terai people had not encountered many westerners (other then the odd NGO) nor western education and so had no construct or norm as to how to interpret you. This can be nice but it is not always comfortable.
Continue on through lush fields and towns rather then villages. A few tea plantations and crops including banana trees. On the outskirts of Siliguri having passed through Bagdogra we passed first a mammoth shopping complex which could easily have passed from the outside as a Westfield in the suburbs of Sydney or Newcastle then a gated landscaped suburb of modern apartments.
Access to Siliguri via an underpass and then before we new it, we were on New Cart Rd, the main road through town. Consider out hotel options as we cycle into town and settle on the Conclave lodge which is set back off the busy main road but still quite accessible to the action in town. The lodge itself had the feel of a slightly degenerating school or basic mansion. Large airy space, not built in but in need of a little TLC. The Labrador pup in the gated courtyard adding to a laid back feel.
Settle in and put the bikes in the enormous room before walking into town for a quick reconnaissance. Have tea at a street side stall, 4rup per glass. Back to the Conclave Hotel on the corner of the lane for dinner at the Eminent restaurant which is quite good before retiring to the room to setup our mosquito net, using the double net purchased in Kathmandu and our tent poles, the end result being quite pleasing and more importantly effective. Best of all, no load shedding. Heaven.
Once more cycle out of Birtamod and through Charali to the Nepali eastern terai border town of Kakarbhitta. A mass of rickshaws, vans and a few larger trucks initially identifying the border edge before focusing on the large road covering archway. Immigration office initially hard to spot due to all the action and because no one else had to go there, but then recognizable both by it's signage in red writing and color as all government buildings in Nepal are a similar sandy colour. The staff as warm and relaxed as the staff on the western terai. Checkout a painless ten minutes with no search, a smile and invite to return.
Feeling tingly with excitement roll the bikes down the hill and across the bridge over the border river to the indian border town of Pantianki. Again have trouble spotting the right immigration building but directed by a couple of officials to the cottage styled building set back from the road on the right. Again we were the only guys there. More forms to fill in and a little more bureaucratic but fast and painless. No checking of bags on this side either. Just a bit of a discussion about the bikes and the fact they have disc brakes.
Out onto the road and it is chaos with traffic backed up in both directions with people, bikes and rickshaws going any which way to try and get through, in many cases by seeking their own express route making it worse for those patiently sitting in line. Having been in this situation before we through decorum out the window and joined in crossing to the pedestrian strip on the other side of the road and joining the weaving, if a little more patiently and possibly politely then some of our road compatriots. It took us longer to work through the traffic to the T intersection than it had in both immigration offices combined. Still having been exposed to the way life works in India it could only bring smiles to your face as people smiled, stared and inquired along the way. Even received a pat on the back by one older couple.
At the T intersection turned left which felt wrong as our visible expectation from the map was to head east not north. The road was correct however and felt fantastic not because it was significantly superior to the road just left in Nepal but because of small differences, a marked break down lane, English road signs and smiling inquiring faces rather than surprised incredulous and occasionally crazy laughter. Other aspects such as the age and condition of vehicles, the crazy honking swerving head on driving by bus drivers and an increase in road side advertising slowly also seeping in.
Welcomed back to India having pulled over into the shade of a large tree. Discussed in very good english where we had been and where we were going which was really nice. It felt like returning to something or somewhere that you recognised and knew your place in. Sometimes on the terai people had not encountered many westerners (other then the odd NGO) nor western education and so had no construct or norm as to how to interpret you. This can be nice but it is not always comfortable.
Continue on through lush fields and towns rather then villages. A few tea plantations and crops including banana trees. On the outskirts of Siliguri having passed through Bagdogra we passed first a mammoth shopping complex which could easily have passed from the outside as a Westfield in the suburbs of Sydney or Newcastle then a gated landscaped suburb of modern apartments.
Access to Siliguri via an underpass and then before we new it, we were on New Cart Rd, the main road through town. Consider out hotel options as we cycle into town and settle on the Conclave lodge which is set back off the busy main road but still quite accessible to the action in town. The lodge itself had the feel of a slightly degenerating school or basic mansion. Large airy space, not built in but in need of a little TLC. The Labrador pup in the gated courtyard adding to a laid back feel.
Settle in and put the bikes in the enormous room before walking into town for a quick reconnaissance. Have tea at a street side stall, 4rup per glass. Back to the Conclave Hotel on the corner of the lane for dinner at the Eminent restaurant which is quite good before retiring to the room to setup our mosquito net, using the double net purchased in Kathmandu and our tent poles, the end result being quite pleasing and more importantly effective. Best of all, no load shedding. Heaven.
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