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| Annapurna Sanctuary Trek |
Day One
(ascent - Pokhara bus to Kande, walk to Landruk 1565m)
Up at dawn to finalize packs and storage of residual gear (including bikes) at the hotel. Out the gates and around to the Laughing
The road out of town takes us out along the edge of Mt Sarangkot (a well known Himalaya viewing location and launching site for the local paragliding fraternity) prior to crossing to the alternate side of the Ghobang Khola and turning at the Seti Nadi gorge NNW along the valley floor before climbing up past Naudanda to Kande (also known as Khare). The ride, our first in a bus since arriving on the Indian sub continent is surprisingly uneventful and quite smooth if full to normal capacity. Also great value at 50rup pp.
At Kande we jump off full of expectation looking past the small village's roadside stores to a slight spur running north into the forested hills behind. Soph choose Kande over Phedi as her preferred entry due to it being 640m higher to help fast track our progress up into the sanctuary. Looking at the map it is hard to disagree with.
Following a final chai, to assist confirming the location of the trail head in town we stride up stone paved stairs and village alleys before climbing past homes and into the bush at about 10.30am. The trail climbs continuously up to Australia Camp (named apparently by Sherpa usage of the term post an earlier Australian expedition stopping here) from where the trail begins to rise and fall through to Pothana at 1950m. Here we were officially stamped into the park at the ACAP checkpoint and recorded in the TIMS register. The climb up gave great views back over the broad Mardi Khola (which latter becomes the Seti prior to turning through Pokhara) and the river valley well below. One thing becoming apparent that guest houses hug the track and appear to be conveniently located at the summit of climbs. On current walking speeds we are hitting clusters every forty five minutes.
From Pothana we follow the ridge line up to 2200m forested with large Rhododendrons before slipping behind the small knoll and down into Bhichok (Pitam) Deurali. Awesome view back across to Annapurna south and Hiunchuli from the middle of the paved guest house located in the small saddle prior to the descent down towards the Modi Khola to our left having crossed into it's valley from the one carved by the Mardi earlier. A Hot lemon and honey raises the fluid levels prior to starting out again down to Tolka. On the stairs on the way we pass a young porter carting on his back in a chocked full wicker basket food goods including a box containing a seemingly uncooperative rooster jutting through the joins. He smiles as we pass whilst trying to settle his nervy companion.
At Tolka we settle for lunch with views over the terraced valley leading down to the river below. Besides the clump of stone guesthouses the straw thatched houses of the Gurung village below are clean and picturesque. The wind is picking up but the sky is crystal clear as we enjoy the food. We note that the menu is surprisingly broad but also increasing in cost.
With the Gurung it was noted in the local museum, that arranged marriages still occur but "love marriages" are on the rise. Historically cross cousin marriages were given preference. In a small village this that makes things pretty close potentially.
From Tolka we descend stone stairs and several wire suspension bridges before entering Landruk (1565m) where we settle for the night. Attached bathroom and hot showers, views of Annapurna from the room for 200rup. Unfortunately though a large pot of Hot Lemon has inflated to 330rup and Fried Veg noodles at 270rup.
Our general game plan on finding the best value accommodation is to assess visually options available and then reconnoiter our preferences for pricing and using competition to leverage the best market price. On the trekking trails this is a fine art however as the lodges all have set prices for the accomodation and relatively consistent rooms, clean white linen, comfy pillows and beds, hot water at all we went to. These set prices are really reasonable at 200 rup for double room. The pricing variation is located in the menus. Plus if dinner is not had at the lodge where you are staying a surcharge is slugged, therefore only viable option for food shopping around is breakfast and lunch.
Day Two (ascent)
Landruk 1565m to Bamboo 2310m
Wake with the dawn, beautiful light high on the mountain side, from Landruk you look straight up the valley to the Annapurna at the end, and though our Hot lemon from the evening was a rip off, the end second floor room is a classic as it's window faces up the valley. In winter the ability to stay in bed under cover as long as possible and soak in the slow light graduation of early morning in warmth, perfect.
Out of Landruk pre breakfast striding the first 100mtrs after which steep stones stairs drop you 120mtrs or so relatively swiftly past terracing down the steep slope to the Modhi Khola to your left, this leaves the valley open giving you a visual
We push a little to reach visual sight of Himalpani as followed by two guys, neither guiding nor porting, in the early morning river mist. Pass by and we follow with a few words of greeting, by the looks just heading back to their homes. Unfortunately post reading stories of confrontist Maoist (though equally could have been opportunist youth of any agenda) encounters, they still linger in the back of your mind though no evidence nor bad moments to support from any we have spoken with. With no access to ATMs and a small kitty any bakesh requested would be a downer. Feel silly at considering concern.
Michael Palin wrote in his book Himalaya (not sure if i have already commented on) something that I have considered many times since commencing our trip. That was, that as a traveller you often externalise your internal feelings onto the perception of moments that you encounter. i.e your own uncertainty can paint a picture that is often not justified by the reality, just your initial perception of the reality. So often we have cycled into a place, sometimes tired or hungry and dusty, sometimes not and the first aspect has been a little negative. However stay in that town or city for a day, throw in a few positive local encounters and a completely different picture emerges. Feeling uncertain you can often respond defensively to a moment creating similar energy in return. On the bikes this I believe is sometimes increased as you are constantly exposed and in others space. The rewards however for exposing yourself can be really rewarding if only identified via a small nod, smile or greeting.
Entering Himalpani a small landslip has covered terraced fields in it's path filling the small rock walled enclosures on it's way to the river. Nothing else appears to have changed however with life continuing on around. Beautiful golden red rock waterfall with glistening spray as the light is slowly filtering down. A little past the settlement and a beaming older Gurung grandmother appearing out of the ferns we cross our first major suspension bridge, though metal floor and cable still slightly springy to the step and with the occasional rough patching. The river below grey blue and white as it has built speed and consolidated enough mass, even in winter to sound hungry below.
Across to New Bridge and the climb on the partially deteriorated path here immediately raised then heart rate from the previous consistent descent. Sun starting to stream down into the lower valley. The path improved and swung around the face and up to a tributary (Kimrong Khola) crossing prior to starting the serious climb back up the side of a spur first to Jhinu (Jhinudanda) where there is a path off to some natural springs (Tatopani - Tato meaning hot and pani water). We didn't indulge preferring Hot Lemon with honey and Tibetan bread for breakfast prior to the push to gain altitude. From here to Taulung and then Chhomrong (2170mtrs) We were pleasantly surprised to see the welcome to Chhomrong signs given we did not really register passing through Taulung. Head must have been down watching footing as powering up the steep staired path. On the climb I try and point out to Soph a porter coming down and running the path with woven basket on his back.
Through Chhomrong and post orienteering exposure sudden depression of realising that the altitude just gained 840mtrs would be lost going down equally steep stairs on the other side of town back to a suspension bridge crossing of another tributary this time the Chhomrong Khola fed by the Southern side of the snow step crested Hiun Chuli seated just below Sth Annapurna. Machhapuchhre (or Fish Tail) still the most visually enthralling though to our right due to it's razor back jutting summit. Snow sitting on the crest clarifying the steepness of it's rock faced cutting.
The drop back down bring close encounters of the family animal kind as the now Golden Brick road size and finished path lead through the side of the spread out terraced farming village. A great traveler sight for those only exposed at speed to such village encounters. Pass a dry grass volleyball court and net prior to climb another steep climb though with some graduated path rather then constant staircase. Unfortunately energy levels starting to plummet at this stage due to lack of food (bonking). On both the climb to Chhomrong and Sinuwa I caught sight of people up ahead and for some reason the competitive spirit kicked in to want to pass. As a result we did. Then at Chhomrong we decided to mimic the porter on the far side and jog down the side to see whether lite knees and faster foot placement actually saved energy due to flowing through the descent. (the jury is still out, as the stairs still result in contact jarring across the uneven varied stride heights. Fast though. We did notice that on many other sections there were dirt paths running to the side or nearby at greater angles that would be better for this and were indeed being used by the porters)
At Sinuwa (2360mtr) post bonk refueling on fantastic veg noodles out on the stunning sunny balcony on a small spur. Again looking up through the narrowing valley ahead, but higher and closer than Landruk. After noodles and quick chat with a spanish solo trekker on and again up though with climbs and descents now mirroring the river just higher on valley wall as it also climbs up to it's source nestled in the Annapurna glaciers and snow melt higher in the valley.
Pull into Bamboo (2310mtr), well named, due to the forest cover consisting of bamboo more similar to what I would expect further to the east in South East Asia at about 3.30pm. Quickly maximize on the solar hot water communal shower whilst quiet. Owner with a bright white new family sized washing machine and mixture of bamboo and plastic piping. Porters start rocking up with three to four rucksacks tied to their backs and the weight supported by forehead bands and a slight angle from hips when moving. Many with thongs, sandals and a few with joggers. Range of ages from teen to wizened but all as willow and fit as the others. Following the bags a range of kitchen utensils carried in overflowing whicker baskets almost as if a carrying competition has been established. No sooner loads delivered the younger guys set up a Caram Bold game and cluster around. All in a days work. A little latter dribs of outfitted Korean Trekkers start flowing down the stairs and into their pre organised rooms. (Korean New Year resulting in holidays and a spike of tourists, similiarly for the Chinese but represented in lesser numbers)
Dinner consisting of plate of Veg Fried Rice and Rice pudding for Soph as we try and conserve our funds, food prices having risen again, if inconsistently on different items. Hot lemon with honey here better value. Bed at about 6.30pm as the temperature starts to drop. Outfitted with two blankets (doonas) and the sleeping bag we have carried, very cosy.
Day Three (ascent)
Landruk 2310m to Annapurna Base Camp 4130m
In the morning again early rise but decide to eat breakfast to try and avoid the energy depletion from yesterday. Porridge good size. Hit the road still cool in the morning light grey green light. Again curling around the altering face of the valley side to Dobhan. To the side of the guest house small gorge like section of river as it descents through large rocks. Sections of fairy tale forest with lush green moss, small blue and white flowers and aged character rich trees with exposed roots sharing space with rock and bush. Some stretched out across the path glazed and shaped by the numerous shoes passing by them. Pass a path building
Still climbing pass the Hinku cave but more excited by the opposing valley wall which is now carrying snow drifts in the leeward slopes. Past Deurali (3200mtrs) and still feeling strong, snacking on chocolate trail mix (from Pokhara). Far wall now stalactites of ice reaching down over craggy rock face and creating yeti inspired fantasy caves. Past the avalanche valley where some Australians died a few years back and continue to climb to the flattening floor of the valley as the river though descending rolls rather than drops. The view ahead is now all rock spur and snow as we start to gain a sense for the valley end as the way ahead looks steep and quite wintery.
Just before Machhapuchhre base camp (MBC) we meet a young retired Swedish couple both in apparent great form and energetically positive. They recommend pushing up to ABC as they the preceding day had been here later and decided to push up, making the guest houses late at around 5pm. They reassured us that the climb though visually threatening due to the wall of the glacier moraine seemingly above you but that the path swung to the side and up of this.
Spurred on and reenergized we agreed and pushed wide of MBC on the direct path and immediately ascended first stairs, then a gradual boulder strewn dirt path weaving up into thicker snow and sections of black ice, from previous ascent paths and freezes.
The temperature dropped as the wind increased and the sunlight was clouded over. To add to the impact a deep throated rumble high on the slopes of Gandharawa Chuli on the North of Fish Tail signalled a white mist of avalanche from one overhang to a lower more graduated slope. Impressive for the sheer rumble. The path continued to weave with created care being taken to avoid ice or slush as the blue roofed guest houses came into view higher up in the broadening valley, with Annapurna South sitting high above. Gloves on, and windstopper added we followed three younger walkers ahead through total snow and rock to the final stairs leading up to the terrace upon which the four guest houses are located.
We checked (or rather were directed) into the the thick rock walled refugee of the Annapurna Sanctuary Lodge (4130mtrs) at 3.30pm. The weather though crystal clear for the past three days was starting to cloud over high on the mountains. Once gear offloaded into our cosy room for the night, we crossed the deep snow to the moraine wall scrambling up to the lip to look down upon the South Annapurna Glacier, or so identified our map but visual all that remains being the deep gravel pit which has been carved and churned over the tens of thousands of years that the glacier sat on top, but now water and ice less. The remains of the glacier appeared to be sitting in the folds of the valley end below Annapurna 1 leaving only the gravel burrow as evidence of it's once mighty strength.
Just below the lip on the Guest House side the boulders had cairns added as visitors have added their presence. Bright and cheery prayer flags also gusted in the barren cold wind paying homage to the mountain and releasing prayers on the wind. A memorial also sat, built to remember some of those who had lost their lives either summiting or returning from the peaks further above.
With the temperature decreasing and a limit due to snow and climbing regulation we turned back to the guest house and collected our thoughts prior to being invited into the dinning room where the gas heater under the table had just been lit. The feeling of warmth added to by the hanging woolen blankets attached to the four table edges in front of the bench seats.
Over great table discussion identify that the guys in front of us, one an Australian and the other a Kiwi have been doing a medical internship in Pokhara at a Leprosy Hospital called Green Pastures and run by the International Nepal Fellowship. The head doctor at the hospital also an Australian. Our Spanish friend from Sinuwa, an older English and a happy go lucky Nepali guy with dreads. Everyone at the table goes for the Dal Bhat option, great food and filing but has blown out to 440rup. Everyone peels off at about 7.30pm and later listen to each other through the single ply wood walls. Thankfully no one gets embarassingly frisky, has dalitis or shores like a bear. We do hear and share restless moments whether brought on specifically by the altitude or dehydration not sure.
Day Four (descent)
Annapurna Base Camp 4130m to Chhomrong 2170m
Wake the next morning early, catch a little bit of pink on the mountains and then back into the common dining room for porridge before deciding to
Down the stairs and play dodge the ice until lower where the dirt starts to reappear. The cloud still sit around the higher peaks, but the immensity and silence is a bodily experience. Grab fresh water refills before Dobhan straight from the rocky tributaries, still throw in some Micropur tablets just to be on the safe side.
The descent is great for the realization of what we ascended, it feels more on the way down then it was on the way up. The ability to smile and namaste with ease whilst others head up. We decide to grab lunch at Sinuwa, where we meet up again with the Swedish couple from yesterday who stopped overnight at Dobhan enjoying a late lunch on the deck. It is great to discuss a whole range of things, again impressed with how balanced they appear to be. They leave first, also intending on making Chhomrong. We pass them half way down the hill as they stop to pick up some stored gear.
The stairs back up to are a killer and we both feel nearly every one. Pass some doe eyed buffalo on the path, just hanging out. Finally make the Himalayan view guest house having decided to pass five or six continuing so that tomorrow morning we would not need to climb up any more stairs. Later in the afternoon the Swedish guys rocked up, followed later by the intern doctors. Dinner around the blanket based table again was great with a Chinese trekker thrown into the mix. The Chinese guy tried valiantly to stay in the conversation but his English was stronger written then spoken. It resulted in some funny discussions though as he thought the Swedish guys were from Switzerland and therefore he discussed watches. Then the discussion swaps to Tibet and the Chinese guy who traveled through Lhasa to reach Nepal identifies that it is not worth going for more then two days, a bit overrated.
Day Five (descent)
Chhomrong 2170m walk to Nayapul 1070m, bus to Pokhara 853m
The next morning woken by early morning photographers on the verandah, snapping shots of the morning lit clouds over the Himalaya. Before breakfast have discussion with the same Chinese guy who turns out to be an IT teacher from a college on New Year, who is on his first trip out of the country. His knowledge regarding Swiss watches drawn predominantly from magazines.
Hit the road following breakfast and saying goodbye to the other guys, most of whom intend on heading down to Jhindu to trial the Tatopani. We on the other hand have decided to scrap the alternative of turning west across the Deurali Pass (3090mtrs) to Ghorepani and Poon Hill instead opt for motoring through to Nayapul and a bus back to Pokhara.
Down the stairs past Jhindu and notice on the path 3000rup in fresh 1000 notes. Look for potential owner but unable to identify we decide to take out but contribute back to a community charity. Although the money would cover a weeks accomodation the thought that it may have been dropped by a local makes it difficult to ethically pocket.
Just pass New Bridge we meet a Chhomrong Guest House owner also heading for Nayapul and bus to Pokhara to see his daughter attending Boarding School there. Followed by his large fluffy mountain dog though repeatedly told to go home. Apparently part of the ritual, when he gets on the bus the dog wanders back to his home a round trip of just over 32km. With local guide we take a few back paths retaining the height gained from the river and passing under Ghandruk. Pass a fantastic suspension bridge over deep gorge tributary just after Imle. From Kimche the high path becomes a bridal path as donkeys are predominantly used for portage as far in as Chhomrong.
Down to Nayapul, larger town and larger garbage strewn randomly by the river side. Sad welcome back to the edge of the Annapurna Conservation Area. Have our TIMs card stamped and checked out just after 3pm. Walk up to the bus stand past the waiting taxis and tourist nicknack tents.
Jump on a bus heading in the right direction 15min later heading up the hill past Chandrakot and Kande. Squeeze into seats down the back on the right. Self reclining numbers with no identifiable way of adjusting. Tight squeeze with small backpacks on laps. Back seat bandits three teenage school boys, just behind us enjoying the ride. Conductor in jeans and Dolce and Gabana shirt strolls around to collect cash, 100rup pp back to Pokhara. Bus full but not to capacity, nor over capacity as we have witnessed before.(ie no one in the corridors, nor on the roof racks, nor hanging onto the back of the bus)
Our tasseled video coach (though screen long boarded over) battles up the slope and around the tight corners. Occasionally oncoming vehicles of a similar size causing the bus to push off the middle tarred section of road to the fringed border regions of axle snapping pot holes. These moments of sudden head jolting movements bringing appreciation for alternate transport with suspension, our only suspension being our recliner seats. Consider a helmet due to the potential for unexpected contact with metal windows or seat frames.
Through Chandrakot and pull over just past Lumle for passenger interchange, idling motor dies as sitting on the slight incline it objects to a bus stop for such a geriatric bus. The driver attempts to coax the bus but we only feel the occasional convulsions of motor response prior to silence. Quick committee discussion at the front of the bus and then most of the guys disembark to stand around outside in the sun. Those remaining on the bus looking at each other every now and again to assess greater knowledge of such events. Having already paid, to abandon ship at this point would be to double our costs.
We watch a young guy climb up the embankment to our side, snap off a sapling and divest it of leaves prior to returning to the buses side. A moment later the smell of petrol fills the air. Surely not just empty.. A few guys load back onto the bus as the driver again attempts to restore life. A few splutters followed by the return of silence. Another committee, followed by the driver locating tools in the luggage racks and opening the large motor hatch situated to the side of his seat. The committee stand around to supply advice or encouragement. The hatch is covered, the driver retakes his position and again turns over the engine this time with the deep throated cough of the engine kicking over. The mood on the bus turns almost festive, as the driver in an attempt to ward off further silence revs the bus vigorously and repeatedly. The crowd outside casually reboard the bus.
The bus successfully makes Kande as the driver continues to rev at odd interludes of bus slowed momentum. Our teeth grate and hearts slow as the bus struggles to maintain it's health whilst awaiting further paying passengers. Finally we crest the small (1770mtr) hill range and start the descent proper back to the valley and Pokhara below. The driver feeling positive turns on the sound system with Nepali folk music pumping through the speakers.
Our fear of break down is quickly replaced with the alternating fear of either the manslaughter of other road users or our own demise. The bus taking on the feel of a surround sound cinema in our pre reclined chairs. Participants but not active as we watch the events unfold at the other end of the metal cigar. Suprisingly as we watch the dodging of oncoming pedestrians I consider the need for a larger noisier horn to forewarn of impending doom. The squealing breaks thankfully (or not) filling the noise
Hearts thudding we have regained the flats and having pulled over the bus again coughs before silence. Thankfully the bus restarts and we continue along the valley floor alongside the deep broad trench of the Seti to our left. Pass a couple of large Buddhist monasteries and across a small tributary before turning at the junction and back into Pokhara. Jump off the bus at Baglung Chowk. Feels almost like leaving friends having shared moments together. Walk back down to Hallen (Camping) Chowk and Lakeside. Return our rented North Face sleeping bag and North Face down sleeveless jackets prior to the walk back to the Royal Guest House. A wedding appears to be in full swing next door. Recovery meal at the Old Lan Hua Chinese restaurant prior to bed in our same balcony room, feeling like home.
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