Sounds of activity outside our shutter cloistered yet cosy room. Out of bed and down the cubby house styled staircase for breakfast of omelet and toast, a house speciality like French toast but with the omelet fully enclosing. Two masala teas later and then we (Sophie, Tom and Anja) were out on the foggy road heading east towards what we hoped was the trail leading up to the Siddha Gupha cave.
At Bimalnagar 3km along the road and beside the green Marsyandi river we located a sign in English pointing toward the trail head. Quick stop across the road to pick up a rent-a-torch and overpriced chocolate prior to passing through a gap in the stores and out through the back of town, up a stone staircase climbing the forested ridge behind.
After climbing on switch backed stairs for some time into more dense and damp ferny foliage we came to a junction in the stair case one way leading to the now evident cave entrance and the other Bandipur. At the cave entrance we took some time to admire the view of the now semi clear himalayan horizon including Manaslu (8163mtrs) and back towards the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri.
A guide, two of whom were waiting expectantly outside the cave mouth, was arranged (for 100rup pp) prior to entering the darkness and testing the rented luminosity. Joining us were two young Nepalese couples attired more for a wander in a shopping district then a cave.
Soon the darkness enveloped us as first we climbed up through a small entrance and then into a sizable ante chamber. The guide made mention several times of "natural" rock formations as we were worked our way gradually via both metal ladders and anchored ropes deeper into the cave. Some of the pockets being quite cavernous with the largest having a roof over sixty meters above. The guide also identified that during monsoon time some of the areas in the cave became torrents of water as it rushed from drop holes in the ceiling through to natural pockets below.
After an hour of moving from cavern to cavern we exited into the fog less mid morning sun. A quick snack of chocolate and peanut biscuits prior to the decision to continue up to Bandipur to inspect what we had missed yesterday afternoon.
Again rock stairs but continuing to climb up and around the face of the ridge into the valley behind Dumre and up eventually onto the satisfying ridge face high above located in a small saddle next to a large Peepal tree and a Buddhist temple in construction. From here the path dropped down into the small village of Tallital before we swung to our right following a paved stone road around into the beautiful square bazaar at the centre of Bandipur.
Bandipur from first impressions felt like a condensed Tansen. Which I guess is not suprising given that it once was part of Palpa Magar kingdom and situated on the Indian / Tibetan trade route. The streets paved and clean and the buildings predominantly 18th century Newari architecture. Browns, oranges and whites being the color of the day excluding the sea blue sky.
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| Walking the streets of Bandipur we saw quite a few kids. |
By this stage the mood of the moment was definitely food being 2pm after having climbed 900mtrs in alt around some hills and in a cave. Down from the Bindebasini temple we initially settled in to the Old Bandipur Inn run by a travel company called Himalayan encounters. The inn is easily the smartest establishment I have yet been in in Nepal, with oil paintings adorning the walls and just a level of complete finish and sophistication. Unfortunately the sophistication comes at a price and post striking for service as instructed by the Tibetan copper bowl bell we purveyed the set price menu prior to relocating across the street to Ke Garne cafe (also run by Himalayan encounters) for a broader menu.
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Following, a great meal of Buff (though Tom did have an upset stomach the following morning) and the best Finger chips since leaving Australia. We also one little urchin come in and post introduction in solid English worked her way around to the now semi empty chip basket and helped herself to a chip, prior to adding tomato sauce and downing a couple more. I must admit to have some admiration for the confidence displayed in the whole operation.
Instead of walking back down past the cave, nor catching a share taxi down the road that we had cycled up yesterday but not quite made it to the top, we instead took the back track to Dumre. Leading out through the high end of the bazaar this picturesque stone path passed the flat Tundikhel where the Tibetan trading took place and five large fig trees. The field was being used for some nightclub practice by local teenagers who were listening to Nepali dance music.
Further down after passing a small hill village the path straightened and descended following a thin ridge line down to the valley floor below. The temperature melow and wind rustling through the tree filled slopes brought a sense of calm as the sun started to set over the Gandaki Himal peaking through cloud in front of us. We passed an ancient circular stone resting bench once built around a peepal tree, now however part of the tree following the roots entwining themselves around and through the stones.
The walk continued along down along the stone paths leading through the leaf strewn forest prior to emerging in verdant fields of peas, cabbages and mustard seed plants.
Just before reaching the fields we were passed by a Jean wearing, leather soled shoe sporting young Nepali running down the stone path, prior to continuing to run along crop paths below and further down into the valley.
Once back on the Prithvi highway we parted company so that I could return the hire torch; returning in the nearly full moon rising to the crew sitting outside the Mustang lodge near the bikes and talking about biking tails of Iran, Turkey and India.
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