New Orleans Cafe for birthday breakfast. Not bad but the bacon is a little stingy. Double espresso good however and not bad value for 90rup. Wi Fi also quite good. Pop into the Kathmandu Guest House to check what the movie is tonight as they have per LP a twenty five seat cinema in which they show nightly movies. However when asked the guy at reception is blunt if not downright rude. Pretty average for one of the supposedly better places in Thamel. Slightly put out, retain good Karma by not telling him where he can shove his customer service.
Out past Thamel Chowk onto Tridevi Marg and to the gates of the Narayan Hiti Royal Palace. Until mid 2000 the residence of the royal family but now converted into a museum. Question whether to enter or not as bags have to be left and the ticket price is 500rup pp. Decide not to be tight, and the gate guards place bags directly into individual lockers to which you are given the key. Through the pat down and then into the front grounds, which are large but plain.
The Palace itself is a large rendered, art deco looking setup, different from the historical palaces but also substantially larger. The main stairs leading up past statues of elephants and to massive wooden carved doors which give access to a broad reception area at the back of which is a large black stain glass of a peacock. This sits above the landing from the dual stair case running to either side and rearing stuffed siberian tigers.
The palace is laid out as if still in use for the greeting of dignitaries, the temporary housing of foreign dignitaries in addition to the royal family. The throne room is an unusual combination of royalty, regional symbolism and 60s granduer. The wood used throughout, whether architraves, doors, parquetry floors or balustrade is beautiful.
Back down to the lower floor we pass further stuffed animals including rhinos, another tiger, a local alligator and deer. I guess pre animal parks. It is not however until you see a Siberan tiger on it's back legs that you fully appreciate what big pussy cats these are. Out through the lower galleries and around to the less positive aspect being the footings of the once royal housing. These buildings behind the main palace were burnt to the ground following the royal massacre which occurred on the night of the 1 June 2001. Ten members of the family died, including the King and Queen and it is believed that the Crown Prince Dipendra was the gunman. However alternate conspiracy theories do exist as his uncle survived and was named King following Dipendra's subsequent non recovery from coma. A sad moment for the family but also for the country, whether monarchist or not, already confronting political issues and widespread corruption.
From the palace we walked down Durbar Marg which is a bit of a western shopping district though still undergoing development. We bypassed the Pizza Hut, KFC, Baskin and Robbins heading instead to Magic Beans. Coffee ok and sandwich good. Load shedding period when we continue South toward the Singha Durbar, not sure what adds to the pollution here more cars or all the small generators people in stores run to compensate.
At the massive police guarded Singha Durbar gates we ask whether we are allowed inside to have a look at the building. Once we confirm that we are not diplomatic staff, we are waved away. Walk instead back along the main drag being Prithwi Path leading to the gates prior to turning up past Ratna Park. On the side of the roundabout we spot an old lady smoking a couple of corn cobs into submission as we have seen a bit around town. Following a photo we grab a couple of cobs wrapped in old newspaper for 35rup and walk on. Give one to an old man begging on the side further up, sadly though on handing across I realize he doesn't have many teeth, so probably not very appropriate khana (food). A bit further up having not learnt from the first encounter I give the second corn cob to another beggar but note him to be a leper and missing quite a few fingers. Resolve that maybe small coinage is more appropriate in these circumstances.
Along the angled and pedestrian busy Asan Tole to Durbar square. Not quite shoulder to shoulder, but close down to the bazaar. Poke around some of the side alleys and through hobbit door ways into communal courtyards. Mixture of central shrines whether Hindus or Buddhist. Walk into the Seto Macchendranath drawn by the small bronze Buddha facing the entrance on a stone pillar and two metal lions. Inside the courtyard various small shrines, statues and chaityas. The weird thing though is there is a western female statue facing the temple inside. Definitely out of place almost like the Athena statue in the Garden of dreams. The internal temple is coated in bronzed facing and buddhist figures.
Into the square itself and post short walk around sit on the wall outside the Saraswati temple watching the world go by. Pigeons everywhere. Joined by porters using the brick step to take a load off, literally. One young porter after leaning his load of cardboard onto the step back pulls out a small newspaper bag and takes a deep intake. Looking dazed he picks up his load and shuffles on.
We continue South through Freak street down toward Ganabahal and spend time checking out the markets further down before turning back up Freak street and across to Paknajol. Not before several offers of hash. On the walk back we have a view of snow on the mountains in the distance. Follow two little boys about 6 or so. One bends down and sucks in the exhaust from a running motorbike before laughing to his mate and wandering on.
Head out to the Fire and ice on Tridevi Marg for Pizza. Which turns out to be excellent but the prices have definitely gone up since our trek book was written. The affogato is also quite good, but the ice-cream so so. The place is also seriously in demand with the turn over of tables and a waiting queue for tables. Nice way to finish up your birthday.
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