Quiet at the Gurkha inn. Most expensive Nepalese accommodation thus far though a share bathroom and no tv. Beds comfy, nice garden albeit effected by current building work and the solar hot water is good in the afternoon. Restaurant nothing flash bar the prices. The main waiter we have communication difficulties with the basics meaning the opposite ie yes and no, as a result we sit around for half an hour waiting for muesli which was a "yes" on the menu. But in fact it was a "no".
Instead back to the bus stand for samosa, jerry and bhatura with chyaa on the side. Whilst breakfasting a wedding passes through the main chowk. Wedding party consisting of the band up front followed by a flower adorned small Hyundai with either guests / relatives following or interested crowd.
From the bus stand bazaar the path to the Palace high on the ridge crest above lies further up via the older centre of town lead to by a paved rock road. Next to the razor wired Army cantonment a beautiful Peepal tree, trunk wrapped with fine white silk next to which a statue of Buddha sits serenely overseeing what is now a run down bamboo cafe on the edge of a green watered cement stair edged large pond (or water storage). Continuing to curl up to the main old square you swing around the Tallo Durbar and grounds, a Newari styled palace built in 1835 and now converted into a museum primarily on the lives of the Shahs.
The building a large three story square palace built around a central courtyard, has beautiful wooden carved, windows and doors with gods, animals and people in dark wooden relief. My personal favorite being the Persian styled window trellising with central jutting peacock carvings, closely followed by the the door guardians facing on the angle out from the intricately carved door jams. Inside the museum, paintings and personal items recount the contribution of the early Shahs.
The crazy thing is that the styling and craft appears now to be lost in public infrastructure. A road beautification project in the main street involves sidewalk and oval rendered brick garden beds. However the path is predominantly flat surface versus stairs though the incline quite steep and the garden beds appear haphazardly positioned and leveled. Almost as if in the rush to construct, the pride (whether skill also) so evident in past work has gone. This being only one example in recurring encounters, from buildings, to roads to infrastructure.
Staircase of 1500 steps (or so I read) up to the Gorkha Durbar on the ridge containing palace, fort and temple complex. The climb with alternate express staircase leading through the occasional pocket of local traditional houses. Given the national interest, surprisingly few stores and touts on the way up which is almost calming, besides the rivers of perspiration thanks to the mid morning sun. Frustratingly, the nepalis we pass on the way up appear to be hiding any such water loss. Closer to the condensed, walled complex it is easy to identify the defensiveness of the position as in addition to it's visual panorama of the Trisulli valley (though still diminished by haze and himalaya by cloud) the walls of the kot (fort) continue the natural include of the ridge. Storming the location from the North, South or West would require fighting on slopes, though achievable, not at speed nor strength.
The actual complex following the climb is a little disappointing in both grandeur and contents from a western perspective as I have been privileged enough to visit more impressive castles and palaces. Dhuni Pati the former palace where Prithvi Narayan Shah had some side wooden doors open through which smoke and bees were exiting. Whether one specifically as a result of the other was hard to identify as the room was darkened with soot and natural lack of light. (both the palace and the temple main being off limits to non Hindus) The Tallo Durbar below exceeding the styling, upkeep and size. However you can see in the local visitors a connection as a site of national history and spiritual interest. This spiritual interest is manifested most vividly on the terrace.
On the terrace outside the Kalika temple we passed what I first thought was a local picnic but turned out to be Rooster sacrifice on the foyer in honor of the Kali goddess, the not so nice incarnation of Shiva's consort Parvati. Though on many early morning I have dreamed of just such an event the reality is quite primal, in some ways more so due to the reasoning rather then the method. We pass the leg bound colorful but hapless roosters and drop down a terrace to the Royal Guest House, upon the struts of which are the now unsurprising erotic carvings.
Again some of which appear quite adventuresome for a culture that does not show outward signs of affection in public. Maybe as a result it gets a bit steamy when the opportunity then arises. I have read though that the carvings are thought by some to be a ward against lightning as the associated goddess is rumored to be a shy virgin. Whether the pent up dreams of the sculptors of the time, tantric visual guide or lightning ward the sculptures located on the Tunala or Roof struts it is a part of historical architecture.
We decide to take some time out as passing young school groups fill the tight alleyways instead sitting outside the north gate beside the age worn Hanuman statue and watch instead the eagles rise in the valley north towards the mountains. Try to warn some goats, ambling up the stairs that it is probably not the best place to hang out, to no avail as they poke their noses into bins outside the palace gates.
Back down to town post recovering our leather items at the gate past the hellipads and further to a small Ganesh temple prior to Tallokot. Kot meaning fort but we fail to identify. Interrupt some young ardent lovers snogging on the lawn, which surprises both us and them.
Past nose ring sari wearing women. Gold is definitely in here. Bangles, rings and piercings. Women with red in their part signifying the status as married.
To the Gorkha Bisauni for late lunch and a little tv time in the restaurant, Pearl Harbor makes confronting lunch time viewing. Couple of Nepalese mountain bikers walk in complete with water bladder back packs. Bikes however sitting on top of a landcruiser out front.
Back to the hotel for midday hot showers, before early load shedding inspired night to assist with the early descent out of Gorkha tomorrow.
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