Up for breakfast, great night in our tent inside a tent. Unfortunately the breakfast that we ordered last night has been lost in communication land and it is not worth bothering to go looking for. Interesting conversation however with one of the guys at the camp regarding the Hornbill that we are yet to see. Apparently the Hornbill mate for life and the female once about to nest finds a woodpeckers hole and then widens it to a 10cm diameter. She then enters and nests loosing her feathers and becomes reliant upon the male for the food for her and their chicks. Should the male be killed during this time then the family is doomed. Once the chick has developed flight the birds move on and never reuse the same nest.
Drive North on NH13 the road undergoing serious roadwork and is more a dusty bumpy trail rather than highway. Along the way we drive by pairs of armed troops in body armor standing around in various poses of interest. Arrive in Bhalukpong and stop at the Police station to check back into Arunachal Pradesh. Further on pull over for breakfast at Hotel Maa Durga where we have Puri Bhaji which by itself is great, but it is served with a chutney made from a local white yam, whole grain mustard and garlic. Initially we thought it might have been a south indian chutney using coconut but corrected before we left. The food was great making up and more for the delay. Lots of hotels in town, including the Hotel Solu overlooking the large and healthy Kameng river.
Beyond town we hit what turns out to be a further 8 kms or so of road works. However we break the run with a quick stop at the Orchidarium not far out of town. Nice idea but most of the flowers in the nursery that we saw were currently not flowering. The research work is very interesting though having identified over 3500 variations of orchid in the state. Also at the park were a few Pitcher Plants (Nepeythes Khasiana) originally from Meghalaya further to the south. These long pitchers visualise a green condom with a lid which drops once an insect is attracted to the pitcher and is caught then dissolved in the toxic liquid at it's base.
Climb begins and winds up into the mist. Pass the Ball of Fire division of the indian army which is I believe a recovery division which hopefully isn't too much testament to the road condition. Come to a road junction before keeping left and dropping back to the river. The river has carved another valley and central pyramid shaped hill. The wind here carries a mixture of cool and warm breezes. Large Hindi temple looking along the river in either direction, the Nag Mandir. Into the small transport town that follows and stop at the police checkpoint to sign in. Process same as usual but the guys are called back in and the guys are apparently asked for a bribe as carrying foreigners. Apparently there are a few bad eggs. The police move staff every three years I believe to help address these issues but it also means new issues in different areas.
Pass vegetable plots but commercial versus subsistence as we start climbing back up. Plenty of tomatoes growing up through long bamboo trellis. The valley sides appear comparatively sparse and dry as we begin driving by army encampment after encampment. The "Maneaters", "Bombers", "Ball of Fire Rabbits", "Path Finders" and "Fikar not Fourteen" among many. Since 62 when the Chinese came as far south as Bombdila this area has been very touchy. From discussions with a few people some of the people and lands north are more Tibetan then Indian in character, but it is not as if Tibetan is the same as Chinese either.
Stop at Denga for lunch after being confronted with typical and not so typical army signs, such as "who dares wins" but "guns, guts, glory" is a bit too Rambo. After a lack luster lunch, where the guys are served actual bad eggs, head up hill. Serious up hill before Bomdila. Nechiphu pass at 5694ft. Just on the edge of town a rattling in the gear box and Niron unable to change into second. Starting to wonder whether this is it as far as the car goes, however a little research below the stick and a loose washer is found to be the cause. A little adjusting and then back on the road. Through town and across another pass before again descending, just as serious as some of the ascents. Thatch houses but rendered with mud or concrete to windproof them.
Make Dirang Dzong a Mong walled outpost high above the river. The Mong a Tibetan people who emigrated south some time in the 16-17 century. Fantastic entrance past a very old leather wrapped prayer wheel and through a stone sided gap in the defences beneath a wooden building. The space inside the wall is filled with stacked stone and wood constructed buildings predominantly houses with very little spare space but views back over the river and valleys below. Some of the stone walls are buckling quite fluidly with age as only mud was used as a binding agent.
Below the Dzong or Fort in Tibetan we cross the road and walk through more old houses in Old Dirang. These stone basement but then large slab sided walls. The slabs joined with housing joints on the corners. A building which initially I thought was a gompa but which turned out to house a large chorten inside. Great entrance carvings with a pair of carved demon heads above the door. Climb up the hillside behind town past mani walls and two exposed chortens to a buddhist monastery on the ridge side. Again stones echoing age but kept in great order freshly painted with beautiful entrance frescoes of buddhas, the wheel of life and mandalas.
I ask a young guy and girl, while the others are still coming up the hill whether we are allowed inside to sit and watch the prayer ceremony that is occurring inside. The guy says no and the girl yes. Confused decide to go with the negative until confirmed. When Tesio comes up he broadens the communication and finds out that there is a 6 day prayer pilgrimage underway. We are invited into the monks smokey residence and are offered tea as Tesio and the Monk discuss a range of topics. Apparently bad vibes of tourists following a group visit. The tea is a Tibetan styled tea which is therefore butter based and a touch salty. Not as bad as I thought it may have been and drinkable. I am nudged by Soph who exchanges covertly my empty cup for her semi full one.
The monk after some time decides that we pass the personality test and offers to take us inside the gompa. We head across and enter the gompa, pilgrims seated on one side of the room and three monks on the other side. All drinking tea. Inside the walls are simply adorned with the exception of the front wall which has large statue of Buddha and lama consorts. After some time the monk also offers to show us the library room upstairs. The stairs very steep wide wooden stairs to the next floor. Inside more statues and wrapped Buddhist texts.
From the gompa across to our accomodation at Herritage Hotel Pemaling. Nice place overlooking new Dirang. Settle in before dinner which is enjoyable.
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Beyond town we hit what turns out to be a further 8 kms or so of road works. However we break the run with a quick stop at the Orchidarium not far out of town. Nice idea but most of the flowers in the nursery that we saw were currently not flowering. The research work is very interesting though having identified over 3500 variations of orchid in the state. Also at the park were a few Pitcher Plants (Nepeythes Khasiana) originally from Meghalaya further to the south. These long pitchers visualise a green condom with a lid which drops once an insect is attracted to the pitcher and is caught then dissolved in the toxic liquid at it's base.
Climb begins and winds up into the mist. Pass the Ball of Fire division of the indian army which is I believe a recovery division which hopefully isn't too much testament to the road condition. Come to a road junction before keeping left and dropping back to the river. The river has carved another valley and central pyramid shaped hill. The wind here carries a mixture of cool and warm breezes. Large Hindi temple looking along the river in either direction, the Nag Mandir. Into the small transport town that follows and stop at the police checkpoint to sign in. Process same as usual but the guys are called back in and the guys are apparently asked for a bribe as carrying foreigners. Apparently there are a few bad eggs. The police move staff every three years I believe to help address these issues but it also means new issues in different areas.
Pass vegetable plots but commercial versus subsistence as we start climbing back up. Plenty of tomatoes growing up through long bamboo trellis. The valley sides appear comparatively sparse and dry as we begin driving by army encampment after encampment. The "Maneaters", "Bombers", "Ball of Fire Rabbits", "Path Finders" and "Fikar not Fourteen" among many. Since 62 when the Chinese came as far south as Bombdila this area has been very touchy. From discussions with a few people some of the people and lands north are more Tibetan then Indian in character, but it is not as if Tibetan is the same as Chinese either.
Stop at Denga for lunch after being confronted with typical and not so typical army signs, such as "who dares wins" but "guns, guts, glory" is a bit too Rambo. After a lack luster lunch, where the guys are served actual bad eggs, head up hill. Serious up hill before Bomdila. Nechiphu pass at 5694ft. Just on the edge of town a rattling in the gear box and Niron unable to change into second. Starting to wonder whether this is it as far as the car goes, however a little research below the stick and a loose washer is found to be the cause. A little adjusting and then back on the road. Through town and across another pass before again descending, just as serious as some of the ascents. Thatch houses but rendered with mud or concrete to windproof them.
Make Dirang Dzong a Mong walled outpost high above the river. The Mong a Tibetan people who emigrated south some time in the 16-17 century. Fantastic entrance past a very old leather wrapped prayer wheel and through a stone sided gap in the defences beneath a wooden building. The space inside the wall is filled with stacked stone and wood constructed buildings predominantly houses with very little spare space but views back over the river and valleys below. Some of the stone walls are buckling quite fluidly with age as only mud was used as a binding agent.
Below the Dzong or Fort in Tibetan we cross the road and walk through more old houses in Old Dirang. These stone basement but then large slab sided walls. The slabs joined with housing joints on the corners. A building which initially I thought was a gompa but which turned out to house a large chorten inside. Great entrance carvings with a pair of carved demon heads above the door. Climb up the hillside behind town past mani walls and two exposed chortens to a buddhist monastery on the ridge side. Again stones echoing age but kept in great order freshly painted with beautiful entrance frescoes of buddhas, the wheel of life and mandalas.
I ask a young guy and girl, while the others are still coming up the hill whether we are allowed inside to sit and watch the prayer ceremony that is occurring inside. The guy says no and the girl yes. Confused decide to go with the negative until confirmed. When Tesio comes up he broadens the communication and finds out that there is a 6 day prayer pilgrimage underway. We are invited into the monks smokey residence and are offered tea as Tesio and the Monk discuss a range of topics. Apparently bad vibes of tourists following a group visit. The tea is a Tibetan styled tea which is therefore butter based and a touch salty. Not as bad as I thought it may have been and drinkable. I am nudged by Soph who exchanges covertly my empty cup for her semi full one.
The monk after some time decides that we pass the personality test and offers to take us inside the gompa. We head across and enter the gompa, pilgrims seated on one side of the room and three monks on the other side. All drinking tea. Inside the walls are simply adorned with the exception of the front wall which has large statue of Buddha and lama consorts. After some time the monk also offers to show us the library room upstairs. The stairs very steep wide wooden stairs to the next floor. Inside more statues and wrapped Buddhist texts.
From the gompa across to our accomodation at Herritage Hotel Pemaling. Nice place overlooking new Dirang. Settle in before dinner which is enjoyable.
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