Could be land of the long white cloud. Was planning on making morning puja at Tawang Gompa but sleep in. Out the front at 8am to meet the guys who are there but bad news, part of the front steering has sheered off. Fairly certain that they can get it all sorted within two hours so we decide to head up to the Anigompa that we spotted across the valley yesterday. Because of time restrictions we have decided to take a line to the high road rather then cut down through the valley and up the other side.
Road to gompa before stairs up onto the ridge. Spot a donkey trail which then whittles away into a maintenance line over a couple of water pipes. Making good ground until we start hitting a couple of pipe leaks which make the surrounding ground mush. Mush turns to serious bog the higher we get just below the Tawang water treatment plant. We are forced to jump from rock to rock then partially scale the water treatments security wall to continue to gain headway up the hill. Meanwhile an army truck has stopped up on the road above and further up another ridge an army watchtower.
Finally make the top road at a small series of biscuit tin constructed houses where ponies are wandering grazing. Running low on time so amend target to a closer gompa. Climb the final section of ridge and then enter the gompa enclosure which smells of burning pine firs. Spin the prayer wheels on the stairs up to the prayer hall, where we note signage Thukje Chueling Nunnery. Nuns are seated in the prayer room facing one another and chanting.
We are invited in and sit cross legged on the floor like everyone else, except that all the comfy flat pillows have already gone. The chanting is quite hypnotic and all over a chilled out feel. Locals predominantly in monpa traditional dress arrive outside some prostrating themselves before invited to circle around the prayer room and each presented with a kata and a small red strip of cloth.
Running low on time so we get up to go but invited to follow the locals lead around the room. As we reach in front of the main statues some water from a kettle is poured into our upturned right palms. Unfortunately neither of us was watching when this occurred to everyone else so not sure. A lady signals via raising her hand up past her mouth so we assume we are supposed to sip. The water when we do tastes of eucalyptus oil. Then another nun signaled to wipe the remaining oil/water over the top of our heads. Still not sure which or maybe both.
Out the front we meet with the locals who had earlier turned up. Some classic characters but most quite camera shy. Fantastic outfits, beads, long red wrap around dresses, a few yak hair wigs and Tibetan shoes. The shoes have a leather base and heavy fabric forms the boot up to the top of the calf, with wide colorful fabric ties that secure them.
We stay only long enough to spin the remainder of the prayer wheels before backtracking down to the road. This time we stick to the road to avoid the muddy patches, cutting back down to the hotel via the back route after passing a few small army camps.
On the road to the hotel the guys turn up. Luckily able to purchase a spare part and perform the repairs so we are back on the road. The road is not busy as we return along NH13 back to Bomdila. Thankfully the weather holds out pretty much all the way with only light rain, enough to dampen the dust but not create mud havoc or loosen landslides. As we left late we arrive in Bomdila past dark and into mist sitting heavily throughout the town.
Dropped off at the Hotel Tsepal Yangjom in Main Bazar Line. Listen to chanting from the Lower Gompa in our room, either very close or amplified. Will try and make morning puja.
Road to gompa before stairs up onto the ridge. Spot a donkey trail which then whittles away into a maintenance line over a couple of water pipes. Making good ground until we start hitting a couple of pipe leaks which make the surrounding ground mush. Mush turns to serious bog the higher we get just below the Tawang water treatment plant. We are forced to jump from rock to rock then partially scale the water treatments security wall to continue to gain headway up the hill. Meanwhile an army truck has stopped up on the road above and further up another ridge an army watchtower.
Finally make the top road at a small series of biscuit tin constructed houses where ponies are wandering grazing. Running low on time so amend target to a closer gompa. Climb the final section of ridge and then enter the gompa enclosure which smells of burning pine firs. Spin the prayer wheels on the stairs up to the prayer hall, where we note signage Thukje Chueling Nunnery. Nuns are seated in the prayer room facing one another and chanting.
We are invited in and sit cross legged on the floor like everyone else, except that all the comfy flat pillows have already gone. The chanting is quite hypnotic and all over a chilled out feel. Locals predominantly in monpa traditional dress arrive outside some prostrating themselves before invited to circle around the prayer room and each presented with a kata and a small red strip of cloth.
Running low on time so we get up to go but invited to follow the locals lead around the room. As we reach in front of the main statues some water from a kettle is poured into our upturned right palms. Unfortunately neither of us was watching when this occurred to everyone else so not sure. A lady signals via raising her hand up past her mouth so we assume we are supposed to sip. The water when we do tastes of eucalyptus oil. Then another nun signaled to wipe the remaining oil/water over the top of our heads. Still not sure which or maybe both.
Out the front we meet with the locals who had earlier turned up. Some classic characters but most quite camera shy. Fantastic outfits, beads, long red wrap around dresses, a few yak hair wigs and Tibetan shoes. The shoes have a leather base and heavy fabric forms the boot up to the top of the calf, with wide colorful fabric ties that secure them.
We stay only long enough to spin the remainder of the prayer wheels before backtracking down to the road. This time we stick to the road to avoid the muddy patches, cutting back down to the hotel via the back route after passing a few small army camps.
On the road to the hotel the guys turn up. Luckily able to purchase a spare part and perform the repairs so we are back on the road. The road is not busy as we return along NH13 back to Bomdila. Thankfully the weather holds out pretty much all the way with only light rain, enough to dampen the dust but not create mud havoc or loosen landslides. As we left late we arrive in Bomdila past dark and into mist sitting heavily throughout the town.
Dropped off at the Hotel Tsepal Yangjom in Main Bazar Line. Listen to chanting from the Lower Gompa in our room, either very close or amplified. Will try and make morning puja.
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