Out of the hotel relatively early and back into the Tata once again. Drive through town back towards old Ziro before turning to the right towards the Apatani village of Hong. First stop and pick up our local guide Sada before crossing the rice field flats and climbing through first pines then bamboo and into a village. The Apatani people populate only this valley as the fields upon which they depend are known for their ongoing fertility having been used continuously by them for the past 400 years or so. Hence not much need to move around, unlike the Adi peoples who are forced to rotate crop location every three years or so.
In some ways though when I look first at the village I don't get a sense for this permanence. The houses are still made out of bamboo and thatch not as I had thought they may have been, the pine which surrounds them. Not only this the style of the houses are less refined then the Adi houses near Along. Interesting though.
We wander along a street and the first noticeable thing the ceremonial poles out the front of some of the houses but different from Adi. These have cross weave thatch and feathers, look more elaborate but feel more primitive. Not for slaughtering mithun at, but to recognise shamanistic rituals performed for the wellbeing of the occupants. Also striking is a huge singular totem pole mounted into the ground braced by large slabs of wood. Twenty metres or so high and with two cross beams near the top mounted by feathers and chains. One of these is erected by each clan in the village at Myoko time, which falls in March. Also a platform again clan based upon which important clan issues are discussed and decided.
A little further along we do another home invasion and have a look inside a standard house. Up onto the verandah, as although the village is located on a small hillock away from the fields, all the houses are still raised on stilts. The verandah leads into an outer room in which is located the rice mill, woven chicken cages, wet weather gear and wood. Inside similar to naga houses an open kitchen with central floor mounted fire place with hanging shelves above constructed out of bamboo. Past the kitchen along the house are the private rooms of the house.
Bump into some Apatani ladies on their way down to the fields. Tight woven baskets on their backs but most striking facial tattoos on the forehead, nose and chin nearly overpowered by nose piercing on both sides with black circular studs. The bigger the better apparently with the studs. The background of the facial touchups is apparently the Nishi living up in the hills had a pretty tough time and required quite a work force in their hunter gathering ways to sustain themselves. As a result breeding was quite important and marriages were polygamous but a little short of stock.
Conveniently the Apatani were a peaceful people quite close and the women apparently were a bit of the good looking sort. As a result the unusual facial touchups, following a few non arranged marriages. After some time however the changes became tradition and became part of the societal recognition of the girl to woman transition. Not necessarily an enjoyed one as several women were required during the process. This practice was phased out 20 to 30 years ago following a student lead move. More and more students were going away for further studies and the tribal markings were just marking them out for special treatment.
Guys on the other hand don't appear to have had any transition process. Older men did have a hair rosette just above the forehead. But it didn't look as painful as the tattoos.
Families have special family friend relationships with a couple of families in alternate villages and clans. These special friends are for support should the family ever require as a result of terrible consequences such as fire in the town. They may even be called upon for financial support in such instances. These friendships or relationships are inherited by the male line of a family. It was developed not only as a support system but also to develop closer village ties. These special friends are invited on a specific day of festivals to share in the feast.
Around a corner we come across a village shaman seated on a clans platform with a range of neatly prepared packages hanging from a bamboo rod part of the contribution to the spirits on behalf of the clan. The chanting and preparation of packages are very reminiscent of the Lepcha people of Sikkim. In some ways no surprise as in the neighborhood but not quite conveniently linked. The Lepcha believed to have emigrated west from either Assam or Myanmar in the 13th century and the Apatani south from Tibet in about the 16th century. However there faith is mutually based in the Bon religion and both are tribal so I guess no surprise that similar.
A person has apparently died very recently in one house as a mithun that has been slaughtered is being carved up on the verandah. Further on we drop down to the rice fields and past the harvest sheds which are constructed as I had imagined that the houses would be. Pine structure and neatly finished. Back to the town before taking a side road across to some other villages passing through the fields. Ladies collecting fish from the terraces having herded them towards small nets. Other people out weeding as the sowing has already been completed. Some terraces covered with a green growth like algae, but apparently a good sign as only grows in healthy water.
In the next town we walk through the bamboo gardens. Bamboo fenced and gated areas where bamboo are tendered by families and spaced to achieve maximal growth. Families and Clans hold four separate areas, their house plots, rice fields, bamboo gardens and wooded forest. All are passed via paternal inheritance, girls inheriting jewelry on marriage. No dowry system exists and though historically arranged marriages now love marriages only.
We discuss whilst walking whether exposure to any kind of pestilence or crop exposure and apparently there is very little. The only one that is a recurring danger is a worm of some kind. The finding of such requires the field to be emptied of water and left dry for a certain period of time. Unfortunately as rice fields are terraced and self irrigate from pool to pool this effects more then just one banked area. Thankfully this occurs rarely. Cows are kept locked up during this season of growth as a large fine awaits an owner whose cow was successful in making it into the rice fields. Also the bamboo flowering season and whether rats are an issue. Apparently the bamboo here does not flower and additionally the people eat rats especially at a certain time of year.
Like the naga, eating tastes are quite varied from the meat perspective with rats, frogs and dogs being quite sought after as delicacies, again mainly at specific times of the year. During one particular festival if you care for your dog you keep it locked up where you can see it. Pork is also still very popular.
We cross through the main rice fields passing ladies and girls in the process of weeding or planting maize on the raised walkway terrace banks. Another group of girls is picking a bank weed for salad greens as a single older face tattooed lady is sowing her final section of rice. She checks to see whether Soph knows the process.
After crossing the fields we take lunch at the new Ziro Valley Resort, Biirii. The food is really good, but not very local. The resort is a first around these parts a West Bengali / Arunachal joint venture. Ownership of land remaining with the Apatani. Also a cute little puppy. We try to warn him to stay off the streets as the dog eating festival is next month, but he seems a little young to appreciate the warning.
Drive back to the markets in town and inspect the produce whilst mainly looking for good woven products. Don't find the style we are looking for but lots of interesting veg, dry fish and clothes. Back to the hotel where some young boys are riding these homemade carts down the hill. Dinner in and catch up on some new season Castle.
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| From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011 |
 |
| From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011 |
We wander along a street and the first noticeable thing the ceremonial poles out the front of some of the houses but different from Adi. These have cross weave thatch and feathers, look more elaborate but feel more primitive. Not for slaughtering mithun at, but to recognise shamanistic rituals performed for the wellbeing of the occupants. Also striking is a huge singular totem pole mounted into the ground braced by large slabs of wood. Twenty metres or so high and with two cross beams near the top mounted by feathers and chains. One of these is erected by each clan in the village at Myoko time, which falls in March. Also a platform again clan based upon which important clan issues are discussed and decided.
A little further along we do another home invasion and have a look inside a standard house. Up onto the verandah, as although the village is located on a small hillock away from the fields, all the houses are still raised on stilts. The verandah leads into an outer room in which is located the rice mill, woven chicken cages, wet weather gear and wood. Inside similar to naga houses an open kitchen with central floor mounted fire place with hanging shelves above constructed out of bamboo. Past the kitchen along the house are the private rooms of the house.
Bump into some Apatani ladies on their way down to the fields. Tight woven baskets on their backs but most striking facial tattoos on the forehead, nose and chin nearly overpowered by nose piercing on both sides with black circular studs. The bigger the better apparently with the studs. The background of the facial touchups is apparently the Nishi living up in the hills had a pretty tough time and required quite a work force in their hunter gathering ways to sustain themselves. As a result breeding was quite important and marriages were polygamous but a little short of stock.
Conveniently the Apatani were a peaceful people quite close and the women apparently were a bit of the good looking sort. As a result the unusual facial touchups, following a few non arranged marriages. After some time however the changes became tradition and became part of the societal recognition of the girl to woman transition. Not necessarily an enjoyed one as several women were required during the process. This practice was phased out 20 to 30 years ago following a student lead move. More and more students were going away for further studies and the tribal markings were just marking them out for special treatment.
Guys on the other hand don't appear to have had any transition process. Older men did have a hair rosette just above the forehead. But it didn't look as painful as the tattoos.
Families have special family friend relationships with a couple of families in alternate villages and clans. These special friends are for support should the family ever require as a result of terrible consequences such as fire in the town. They may even be called upon for financial support in such instances. These friendships or relationships are inherited by the male line of a family. It was developed not only as a support system but also to develop closer village ties. These special friends are invited on a specific day of festivals to share in the feast.
Around a corner we come across a village shaman seated on a clans platform with a range of neatly prepared packages hanging from a bamboo rod part of the contribution to the spirits on behalf of the clan. The chanting and preparation of packages are very reminiscent of the Lepcha people of Sikkim. In some ways no surprise as in the neighborhood but not quite conveniently linked. The Lepcha believed to have emigrated west from either Assam or Myanmar in the 13th century and the Apatani south from Tibet in about the 16th century. However there faith is mutually based in the Bon religion and both are tribal so I guess no surprise that similar.
 |
| From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011 |
A person has apparently died very recently in one house as a mithun that has been slaughtered is being carved up on the verandah. Further on we drop down to the rice fields and past the harvest sheds which are constructed as I had imagined that the houses would be. Pine structure and neatly finished. Back to the town before taking a side road across to some other villages passing through the fields. Ladies collecting fish from the terraces having herded them towards small nets. Other people out weeding as the sowing has already been completed. Some terraces covered with a green growth like algae, but apparently a good sign as only grows in healthy water.
In the next town we walk through the bamboo gardens. Bamboo fenced and gated areas where bamboo are tendered by families and spaced to achieve maximal growth. Families and Clans hold four separate areas, their house plots, rice fields, bamboo gardens and wooded forest. All are passed via paternal inheritance, girls inheriting jewelry on marriage. No dowry system exists and though historically arranged marriages now love marriages only.
We discuss whilst walking whether exposure to any kind of pestilence or crop exposure and apparently there is very little. The only one that is a recurring danger is a worm of some kind. The finding of such requires the field to be emptied of water and left dry for a certain period of time. Unfortunately as rice fields are terraced and self irrigate from pool to pool this effects more then just one banked area. Thankfully this occurs rarely. Cows are kept locked up during this season of growth as a large fine awaits an owner whose cow was successful in making it into the rice fields. Also the bamboo flowering season and whether rats are an issue. Apparently the bamboo here does not flower and additionally the people eat rats especially at a certain time of year.
Like the naga, eating tastes are quite varied from the meat perspective with rats, frogs and dogs being quite sought after as delicacies, again mainly at specific times of the year. During one particular festival if you care for your dog you keep it locked up where you can see it. Pork is also still very popular.
We cross through the main rice fields passing ladies and girls in the process of weeding or planting maize on the raised walkway terrace banks. Another group of girls is picking a bank weed for salad greens as a single older face tattooed lady is sowing her final section of rice. She checks to see whether Soph knows the process.
After crossing the fields we take lunch at the new Ziro Valley Resort, Biirii. The food is really good, but not very local. The resort is a first around these parts a West Bengali / Arunachal joint venture. Ownership of land remaining with the Apatani. Also a cute little puppy. We try to warn him to stay off the streets as the dog eating festival is next month, but he seems a little young to appreciate the warning.
Drive back to the markets in town and inspect the produce whilst mainly looking for good woven products. Don't find the style we are looking for but lots of interesting veg, dry fish and clothes. Back to the hotel where some young boys are riding these homemade carts down the hill. Dinner in and catch up on some new season Castle.
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