Tata potatoes (Sunday 5 June 2011)

Up at 5.30am as the drive today is expected to be 10 hours if the road is in it's usual state. The original proposal included a night in Daporijo but we wanted to cut any fat out of the trip that we could and this was the only day out of the original three week itinerary that read like it was possible. Rain has been falling heavily throughout the night so uncertain what the road will be like.

The first part of the drive included the return to the junction at Ban. Two nights ago we would have seen all this except we hit it in the early evening, the drive from Dibrugarh being longer then planned. With the rain falling nothing really stood out with the exception of some fantastic small road side markets, with intricately banana leaf wrapped packages and bundled crisp fresh produce. One of the two road alternatives leads back toward Bagra and the other to Daporijo. Because of this road side thatched stalls are set up which Tesio reviews searching for subji. Finally on the high side of the junction one that does. Turns out to be fantastic potato subji served with roti which I could happily have most breakfasts.

From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011

Continue on, passing one of the many BRO (Boarder Road Organisation) signs. "Connectivity breeds progress" a statement again in which several perspectives could be read. As it is Sunday many people are about but not on their way to school, fields or work but relaxation or worship. The most sensational are the older men with long slacks, collared shirts, vest but most distinctively traditional Adi hats which if looked down upon resemble an eye. I am sure that I have seen Aztec style hats that are similar or alternatively maybe they were metal conquistador hats.

Cross from West Siang into Upper Subansiri high on valley side following river far below. Still dense forest but increasingly high tree cover versus low ferns, vines, palms and banana trees. The rain though eased from the morning has created gushing waterways and falls along the roads route. Pass mithun but now with orange mixed in almost Jaffa mithun. The road drops down to the valley below and the big river at it's base. Rice fields and terraces. Through Lida which looks like a nice place. The road shadows the river which is flowing rapidly in the opposite direction.

We turn across the river having continued past Daporijo but on the opposite side for several km. Therefore having crossed we need to turn back to Daporijo, which appears not all that appealing as we drive through. Rubbish everywhere in the streets. From town we cross another side stream before climbing back up into the hills.

Pass through the Hill Miri and Nishi lands as we continue along the higher ridges. Hunter gatherers rather than agriculturists. Houses not as fine as the Adi. Interesting ceremonial poles these ones, recognising the death of an individual and constructed out of bamboo as previously but these ones with an umbrella standing on top. Apparently when the poles first created following the death, a chicken is placed in a cage below the umbrella. It is released several days later recognising the spirits release.

Stop at a small restaurant opposite a church. The roti turns out to be great. Drive continues into the hills and after a while start to come across pines just after we smell them. Drop down through the pines into a broad valley sitting on the plateau surrounded by hills. Ziro. The flats are covered with verdant green rice fields all looking well tendered. Houses as we enter the old town incorporate quite a bit of pine but still bamboo and thatch. Still the fresh smell of pine on the air. We continue through old Ziro and onto Hapoli or new Ziro and our accomodation at the Hotel Blue Pine at Pai Gate.

Dinner in the in-house restaurant and beer as a thankyou to the guys. Turns out to be a different brand, one called "Knock out" and tastes very similar to "Hit". Crash into our beds quite easily after over ten hours sitting on our butts in the car.