Another sunny day. Very very lucky. Walk around to the Tawang Gompa via the higher ridge which also looks across to the far valley and an Ani Gompa (Nunnery) high on the far ridge. In the distance hear either artillery fire or road blasting unsure of which, or for that matter which frightens me more. Come out at the gate to the Gompa which is built in a fortified style like a citadel on the ridge all enclosed, white walls and yellow roofs with the large prayer hall sitting imposingly high on the ridge. Spend time wandering the complex and sitting in the prayer hall. Huge Shakyamuni Buddha (8mtrs high) sitting against the back wall, but looks comparative to the large prayer hall in which he sits. Some fantastic characters wandering through the Gompa, an old guy in Tibetan long tunic with cool facial hair, an old monk with a huge grin full of a handful of teeth an older monpa lady with a face full of life. Pose for multiple photos with Indian soldiers.
Tesio appears so we decide to move on and check out the old market in town. Mainly Chinese goods via Tibet some Buddhist prayer goods, almost a flip from Nagaland where these stores would be Christian. Grab breakfast at the Maa Maa Hotel, Paratha here is fantastic but different. More bread dough than the usual fryed flat unleavened bread. Good stuff. Off on the search for a traditional Monpa village but on the way stop by a 400 year old Gompa further down the hill where the sixth Dalai Lama was born. The monk with the key is temporarily missing so we instead inspect a tree which grew from a staff left by H.H the Dalai Lama. The three trunked tree still standing but only two trunks remaining. The third collapsed in an almost prophesied event shortly after which the 14th Dalai Lama arrived having fled Tibet the Chinese occupation.
Down the hill further winding around in a confusing range of directions before pulling over in a small village on a ridge line below which are semi flat hill fields. Soph chooses to go and catch up with the locals who at this time of day are down in the fields, whilst I go half way and sit on a rock in the sun in a large scenic patch of marijuana. The sun is gorgeous and the sea blue sky pure as a backdrop against the fluffy Napisan clouds. Soph works her charms and even helps pile weeds and potato stalks from the fields before photographing and sharing tea (also offer raksi - home made rice wine) whilst the team continue to harvest potatoes.
Back up across the road into the higher side village where we wander through the double story stone built houses. Small doors and high windows the only major light sources. Large piles of chopped wood in neat stacks and kids washing under the public tap and then warming themselves in the sun. Mani stone walls and prayer wheels sprinkled through the lanes. Invited into one house sitting on the verandah next to drying millet currently being used in a pot of boiling rice for rice wine. Inside the kitchen is dark both from the lack of light but also the soot covered walls and roof. Similar to our last tribal kitchen exposure this one has both the wood fire pit in the middle of the floor and also a new gas stove sitting on a bench. Steep stairs leading to the floor upstairs.
Following a great tea we head back to the car and up the hill to the Indo / Sino war memorial. A chorten sits in the middle of plaques recording the Indian dead and a small museum tracks both the escalation to violence and how the attack developed through to the Nov ceasefire.
Back into town and have a look at the new market before up to Chinese restaurant (more Indian than Chinese) for early dinner. Catch up with Luke. This guy has been so successful at traveling to interesting places and in India maintaining a budget. So many times of late and of course this Jeep tour we have given in and paid a little bit more as comfort after the bikes or just getting tired of shopping around. A motorbike definitely helps. Talking motorbikes he was able to pick up his silver Royal Enfield for 15,000 INR (about $330 AUD) from a foreigner in Goa desperately needing to head home. We also compare photos and he shows us his signature photo which is a self timer of himself in iconic locations doing a handstand. Classic. Not to mention the photos have come out really well. Handstand up at Sela pass in front of his motorbike and the entrance gate, one in a Rice field.
Walk back in the dark to our hotel which tests the memory a little as it is on the far side of town near the Gompa. Sumo jeep passes in the darkness, the driver calls out on the way "Hi Foreigner". Chill out for the rest of the night wondering whether the pork chopsuey will come back to haunt us.
Tesio appears so we decide to move on and check out the old market in town. Mainly Chinese goods via Tibet some Buddhist prayer goods, almost a flip from Nagaland where these stores would be Christian. Grab breakfast at the Maa Maa Hotel, Paratha here is fantastic but different. More bread dough than the usual fryed flat unleavened bread. Good stuff. Off on the search for a traditional Monpa village but on the way stop by a 400 year old Gompa further down the hill where the sixth Dalai Lama was born. The monk with the key is temporarily missing so we instead inspect a tree which grew from a staff left by H.H the Dalai Lama. The three trunked tree still standing but only two trunks remaining. The third collapsed in an almost prophesied event shortly after which the 14th Dalai Lama arrived having fled Tibet the Chinese occupation.
Down the hill further winding around in a confusing range of directions before pulling over in a small village on a ridge line below which are semi flat hill fields. Soph chooses to go and catch up with the locals who at this time of day are down in the fields, whilst I go half way and sit on a rock in the sun in a large scenic patch of marijuana. The sun is gorgeous and the sea blue sky pure as a backdrop against the fluffy Napisan clouds. Soph works her charms and even helps pile weeds and potato stalks from the fields before photographing and sharing tea (also offer raksi - home made rice wine) whilst the team continue to harvest potatoes.
Back up across the road into the higher side village where we wander through the double story stone built houses. Small doors and high windows the only major light sources. Large piles of chopped wood in neat stacks and kids washing under the public tap and then warming themselves in the sun. Mani stone walls and prayer wheels sprinkled through the lanes. Invited into one house sitting on the verandah next to drying millet currently being used in a pot of boiling rice for rice wine. Inside the kitchen is dark both from the lack of light but also the soot covered walls and roof. Similar to our last tribal kitchen exposure this one has both the wood fire pit in the middle of the floor and also a new gas stove sitting on a bench. Steep stairs leading to the floor upstairs.
Following a great tea we head back to the car and up the hill to the Indo / Sino war memorial. A chorten sits in the middle of plaques recording the Indian dead and a small museum tracks both the escalation to violence and how the attack developed through to the Nov ceasefire.
Back into town and have a look at the new market before up to Chinese restaurant (more Indian than Chinese) for early dinner. Catch up with Luke. This guy has been so successful at traveling to interesting places and in India maintaining a budget. So many times of late and of course this Jeep tour we have given in and paid a little bit more as comfort after the bikes or just getting tired of shopping around. A motorbike definitely helps. Talking motorbikes he was able to pick up his silver Royal Enfield for 15,000 INR (about $330 AUD) from a foreigner in Goa desperately needing to head home. We also compare photos and he shows us his signature photo which is a self timer of himself in iconic locations doing a handstand. Classic. Not to mention the photos have come out really well. Handstand up at Sela pass in front of his motorbike and the entrance gate, one in a Rice field.
Walk back in the dark to our hotel which tests the memory a little as it is on the far side of town near the Gompa. Sumo jeep passes in the darkness, the driver calls out on the way "Hi Foreigner". Chill out for the rest of the night wondering whether the pork chopsuey will come back to haunt us.
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