We've decided to call today a rest and reconstruction day. That means we can stay under the covers of the doonas legitimately until 8.30am when the sun is up. It is still chilly though. In town there is pretty much the national highway junction with some local roads and that is town. Around which are plenty of dhabas to service an apparent road stop for the buses and taxis. We therefore try out a different dhaba. Not bad.
Given the cold, we stay in the sun by exploring what there is of town. At a General store opposite the SSB (Border police academy) entrance gates one of the main tourist features in town we take chai and look out over the tea plantation below (another of the listed tourist features) before walking back toward Tharli to a Buddhist temple. The temple is simple but beautiful and similar to many Buddhist / Hindi temples located in a stunning location with views back to the mountains. Prayer flags wave in the cool but pleasant breeze. The keeper of the temple invites us to share some homemade milk cake prior to us heading back to Gwaldam.
The search is on for some kerosene to use as a degreaser on the chains which have accumulated quite a bit of grit over the road works since Haridwar. We locate some in a home goods type store, which is part kitchen needs, paint and hardware and electrical goods. On confirming 1 litre, which appears to be the smallest unit of purchase, the owner locates an empty whisky bottle for us and uses it for measurement/packaging for which we are grateful, though Soph does get the odd stare, whether as a result or the normal not sure. On the way we pass a fruit store where the owner had relocated to sit in the sun on the opposite side of the highway, just over a single lane. We noticed a monkey swing down off a roof, around the corner straight into the store, grabbed the only bunch of bananas on display and head back to the roof before the owner noticed and came running. How you could run a fruit or food store here with these little buggers beats me. Most stores don't have doors just roller doors on the front for at night.
Back at the hotel we inspect the damage on the bikes and decide to transfer the panniers to the BMC and Bob to the Rocky Mountain. The Bob transfer is fine but the panniers are tricky. On the BMC the bottom housing is so close to the frame that the quick release on the tyres does not allow the seating of the skewer in it's frame housing, therefore it is tightened out, which once loaded with weight may cause one side to slip up. Further the top pannier screw housing on one side appears to have a free spinning nut, not great to tighten or release if necessary. Whilst cleaning we notice two monkeys make short work of some masala chips on the neighbours roof.
The temperature has started to fall as I finish. A young boy has been an onlooker for some time and we identify that he works at the restaurant next door and does not go to school. Not sure whether by personal choice or other. We throw him onto Soph's bike which he is stoked about but struggles to reach the peddles or balance so does not last long.
The temperature has flat lined. Soph has on three thermals, beanie, tights and is looking for her woolen gloves courtesy of a Norwegian Great Uncle. The power drops out, tries to kick back in to the degree that the lights flicker and then partially glow before cutting out completely. We decide to head out for tea at the same place where we had lunch. No surprise they have a gas lantern out and we are directed to a table for two.
Back in the hotel we pack up and Soph dives under the covers after trying to resuscitate her toes into warmth via some hot water. The night is silent so the cold appears to also guarantee avoidance of late night building and dogs barking at monkeys. I will dream hopefully of a smooth journey tomorrow.