Wake to sounds of activity and goats. Light streaming into room and view across the rooftops to the range.
We have suffered our second bike casualty of the trip with my back tire mysteriously going flat. A thorough inspection fails to reveal the cause and will need to tub dip it latter to identify what must be a fine leak.
Head out to find breakfast and wifi. Linked objective. Past shoe clean guy to the Peace cafe just up the street. Free wifi and coffee. Grab muesli, scrambled eggs and coffees sit on the balcony in the sun, Wifi however diminishes the moment as it is a sketchy connection at best, it is the most we have paid for breakfast in ages. Head down to Nicks where predominantly European crowd are sitting back eating non Indian fare and using a range of electronic devices. We engage in a pot of tea, which we extend out by grabbing some homemade cookies, which singularly cost the same as a whole pack from a general store.
After successfully sending emails by priority we move through the chowk heading for the State bank of India. Last night on getting money out Soph accidentally ripped a 500 rupee note partially. The partial rip was enough however for the hotel not to accept, and they suggested taking it to the bank to get it swapped. The lineup at the bank branch upstairs from the atm was all the way back to the door, made up of ten people and stalled by what appeared to be only one teller open. Fifteen minutes later when I made the counter the teller redirected me to another desk, where I waited patiently as the swarm of people slowly eroded. The lady bank assistant on identification of the issue tore up some paper and passed across a glue stick for me to patch up the back of the note. It was not my neatest work, but post relining up again the first teller called me forward and accepted my work after a quick inspection. Phew. Although just over AUD$10 here this is a nights accommodation or several days meals.
Shopping, the bazaar is lined with Tibetan goods and various clothing options. Plenty of rip off fashion gear (North face seems popular) but matched by a handful of true artisan / self designer quality which stands out. More Europeans than we have seen anywhere even Shimla, which is reflected in the shopping. The shop / stall staff however are relaxed and you don't feel chased down for the sale.
We work our way down to the Tsuglagkhang complex and the Kalachakra Temple. Inspect the murals of the Wheel of time mandala prior to heading out to the nearby cafe which supports tibetan refugees. Don't see the Dalai Lama wandering around as his official residence is within the complex, but would have been very surprised if we had.
Buy a pair of long pants, as besides the cold, people give you crazy stares when wandering around in shorts, indian and european alike. Pants are placed in paper wrapping, plastic bags being largely banned in Himachal Pradesh. This paper bag unlike the newspaper derived ones given in fruit and veg stalls is made from Tourney Gold packaging (local brand of smokes) including the health warning that "Smoking is addictive", "cigarette smoke contains carbon monoxide", "smoking causes lung cancer, heart disease, emphysema, and may complicate pregnancy". Not quite the no branded, dramitised photograph laden packaging from back home. I have not been overwhelmed however by people smoking here. It's use does not appear to be any more confronting than back home.
Out onto the streets in search of veg noodles. No success but find a Chinese, Tibetan, Bhutanese and Thai place which has a novel for a menu. Good food and reflected by consistent crowd, especially given the time at night. Most places have pulled down the roller doors but a few die hards are open for the late sale.
On the walk back to the hotel a Rickshaw zooms by out of the darkness from around the corner. It's single light and thinness makes me feel like a car from a roller coaster has broken off it's tracks and gone careering down the road on some night time adventure. Maybe there was MSG in the food. Every now and again this seems to happen around here. Quite often developers and property owners leave reinforcing jutting out of roof top floors and stairs going to nowhere to provide the opportunity of further growth. The stairs, generally thin moulded concrete with stair bottom as well as top versus diagonal bottom following the angle always makes me feel like I have stumbled on a Harry Potter set, especially when going to nowhere.
Guys next door are having a Charas party with open log fire whilst listening to, coincidentally Bob Marley.... Later a bit of trance. Maybe we will have to go and investigate tomorrow night, better at the party than with the party in hearing and drifting smoke only.