Woke early which was a challenge as this morning it was quiet and cold. Perfect conditions for staying in bed. Pack everything back into the panniers and bob. They are magically expanding and taking on weight.
Breakfast at the same Sweet store as yesterday, so Samosas, Chana and Prantha with Chai. Steam was coming off the empty chai glasses on tables, not so fantastic when sitting in shorts but I know I will thank myself for it latter. The bikes feel good cycling out, not so the fingers as I have packed my gloves somewhere. It does not take long to get warm with small climbs and falls through development on the fringe. The Alaknanda river remains on our left and we see more of the Dam development on the edge of town.
The road twists along the path giving good views of terraced cropping. The road also has it's fair share of road works and so the bikes and our backsides get a workout. Again pass slip damage varying from decent chunks of rock on the sides, to loss of road bitumen, to cracks or slipped road surfaces and finally massize still active road slips that bulldozers are still clearing.
We pass many road signs in english, but some are downright bizarre. Most focused on the themes of arriving alive or not drink driving or speeding. But we also pass a few BRO signs being the road construction /maintenance company that has secured the road contracts in these parts. One makes us cackle based upon our past couple of days of road works, which may have impacted upon our perception. The sign read, "why go fast, make it last". Arguably this could be read as a reflection of quality before quantity, but to us it reflected a draw it out.
Pull over to confirm direction at a road junction. Decide to have a chai because it seemed like the thing to do. Have a crowd of waiting tourist taxi drivers, some more animated than others. Mr chai also a character, seems consistent with the stand alone chai guys.
We turn down over the small bridge into Rudraprayag, the road drops away down to the town bazaar which is formed in a rough teardrop with a people tree in the centre. It appears to be a major thoroughfare as there are honking buses and taxis everywhere. Hectivity plus. Not a good vibe unfortunately. We grab some Veg noodles which is big on veg, salt and chili sauce and unfortunately low on veg. Busy place though. Some of the taxis are being washed off out the front on arrival, looks like fryed dhal on the side.. Doesn't help the appetite.
Riding out of the town, where we had planned to stay feels very right. Big call though as the next expectation of a place to stay is not until Karenprayag a further 33kms and we are unsure of whether there are any killer climbs along the route. Not all that keen to have a repeat of Rishikesh to Devaprayag. All we are going off are the Dhaba discussions from last night where it was recommended and that the road was fairly consistent with that to Rudraprayag. The serious climbing starts from there.
The road continues to carry us along the river's path now falling lower below as we climb. Now it is the waterfalls that the bridges cross. Land slips continue together with road work, both as a result of the prior and just ongoing road and bridge reconstruction. Glimpses also of snow capped mountains appear infrequently in the apex of valley's defining hills. Glistening white and giving chills but also strangely invigorating.
Karenprayag is once again at a road junction, but the main market area is right down on the water side. Directions lead to a hotel behind a row of street side stores. The room is huge with a double and single bed pushed together, not sure whether this is a standard concept or there has been a local love in. Room has all the fundamentals and most importantly hot water. The balcony overlooks the whitewater just up from the old metal crossing bridge.
We sleep to the sound of water crashing on rocks coming from the balcony of the Hotel. It sounds like a heavy rain storm that constantly falls on the roof with no respite. The sound in someway present, consistent and calming.