Hit the road early heading down Mall rd back towards Kosi. Grab breakfast at a dhaba on the way down, next door is a new cyber cafe which is very handy. Samosa for breakfast again. Email Firefox in Dehradun, again. At the police checkpoint we turn up to the right and take the high road. The road climbs gradually up through a light residential past a small mosque beyond which the road forks, the bottom road towards an industrial park and the top road to Kasar Devi.
We drop down through the industrial park to the Panchachuli women weavers of Kumaon factory. On our second day in Almora we stopped into their store on the mall and were impressed with their shawls, beanies and scarves. Beautiful pashmina and lambs wool, hand woven and vegetable dyed. The industrial park was standard, except for the spray painter working outside with a shirt tied across his face instead of a filter mask, green water coming out of a pipe of another factory and entering the standard drainage system.
The weaving factory however is below and to the side, well signed and with light and airy buildings. The factory employs 300 or so women, who using lambs wool and pashmina (sourced from initially Tibet but due to supply and standard issues now Mongolia) take the product from fibre to finished product. i.e. comb, card, spin, dye, weave etc. The ladies were very smiley and it felt like a support centre in addition to work place. They even had a section where leprosy effected women worked on less demanding machines. The operation had commenced with the support of an NGO and has grown strongly since 2000 when only the bottom floor existed to now three levels and an additional building. The expanded entity is still a registered charitable company. (www.panchachuli.com)
From the factory we pass the preceding businesses again, stopping at a commercial bakery to pick up some cookies pre heading to the higher road. After stopping to pick up some Centre fresh (chewing gum - mentos single serve 1rup) and confirming route due to lack of confirming signage of any sort. Part of the rubbish problem here is that tobacco, chips, gum, peanuts etc are all in plastic packaging. Historically throwing skins or paper was not a problem as it either was eaten by the roaming animals or degraded. Anything that was too large for the proceeding was piled and burnt.
But now the plastics lay not eaten nor degrading and in the populated areas if not washed down the drains first or blown away, or distributed by animals is piled and burnt creating toxic poly smoke that just wafts through the streets and passerby. It is therefore an issue buying in similar way to bottled water as weigh up the use versus the disposal. Mentos does not aid the process by individually packaging each gum. Pressure needs to be mounted first the government via stronger waste education and better waste systems, followed by pressure on the companies by the buying public. Sorry, pet hate and strongest sense of concern for India and Indians.
After wandering whilst appreciating the view back across the valley to Almora and the valley / ridges to Nainital, we spot an aged sikhara temple similar to those seen at Jageshwar but with an arched verandah all the way around the exterior. It is deserted but clearly frequented. The key aspects are here, the tiger, the ox, the water worship etc. The location is again amazing, reinforcing the earth connection, raising question of whether such locations are intended as pilgrimage versus daily worship. There are many shrines to many gods and definitely temples located in communal areas, but the temples at Jageshwar given their size and number are not reflected in the nearby villages. I guess monasteries in Europe were originally similar, but over time monasteries grew into non clergy education facilities, which attracted general business, which attracted specialist business, which generated greater communities and the hub was created. This is not reflected here. Whether Nanda Devi temple complex at Almora is a better example, may be the case. So much yet to learn about religion and human development.
One cool thing at the temple was a cricket pitch has been clearly set up to the side of the temple on the only flat. It amazes me where kids will set up. This pitch has two slate slabs at either end for wickets, a well worn dirt pitch but anything greater then a block with the bat would involve some serious scrambling and climbing for the fielders. Same the kids who play onto of the flat concrete topped buildings or on the roads. Also in the Lalal bazaar, kids and adults playing badminton over the low power lines that criss cross replacing a net, with passing traffic dodging depending upon inclination. Kids playing lasso with old bike tires, initially raising alarm as to their control ad they fling in close quarters, where oncoming traffic is also watching for fresh cow pats.
Back on the road we climb past some minor road slips being repaired before stopping for chai and aloo (potato) curry at a shack on the edge of the range. Great curry, still firm and generous chunks of aloo. Good chai too with fresh ginger. The locals post some photos direct us to a short cut path up through the forest to the temple.
The short cut might be short but what it makes up for in distance it loses in gradient. Still it is a clear cut and trodden path and the silence is beautiful. The trees are mammoth tall and straight. Many have been farmed for their sap, it appears that at some point the farming results in the burning of the base lightly. Either the farming itself, the burning or the combination results in the tree losing structural integrity and toppling. It is not very far along before we see the fallen trees being harvested by villages. Soph stops and chats with a village girl and her brother, a micro woodchopper, before we continue on.
The path follows a water pipe up the rise, every now and again popping out of the soil. In a few spots we have to scramble due to fallen trunks or landslips. The stone on the path is made up of fools gold, giving the path quite a glittery effect, something to focus on apart from the breathing, man where has my street cred gone with the whole fitness thing, it hasn't been that long since on a bike.
The Kasar Devi temple sits on the ridge line and consists of two temples, the first which is lower is dedicated to Goddess Durga and the second a 6th century Shiva temple. The Durga temple is nestled into a massive rock ledge and has some sort of bell disease as not satisfied with one on the entrance gate has hundreds. We watch thermal circling large birds which we take to be eagles but turn out to be vultures. Takes some of the pleasure out of the sight, too many movies of desert vultures and untimely deaths. The Shiva temple up a flight of stairs is plain in itself but sits in a sunny, light and open patch on the high point of the ridge. Invited by the local Sadhu we sit under a covered area fashioned in the shape of a huge mushroom and talk global events, religion and humanity generally.
It is amazing how many people link Australians, almost stereotypically, to the indian student events and immigration policy. Many have no concept of the true geography of the land mass and associated issues such as salinity, water sources and arid landscape. Many also forget how similar humanity are in their strengths and weaknesses. Some points made are fairer than others. The media here also carries only specific stories of Australian content such as Warnes break up with Hurley post texting Australian mum, Australian government compensate Haneef (Indian Dr held under terrorism laws in QLD post London subway attacks) Similar to media globally not many good news stories hit the print. The Warne story captures and holds the english speaking media for three days.
One interesting thing discussed was that India has the largest population of Muslims in the world, larger even than Indonesia. Also that Bangladesh is an Islamic state. One slightly more contentious point discussed, which I shall have to research further, was that a historical reason for the size of this population was due to early Muslim conquerors from towards Persia taxing non Muslim families, resulting in the conversion of many due to poverty.
Decide to move on when the sun starts to set and Soph's lips begin to turn purple, the same color that her hands appear to be. We walk back down past the Durga temple and then onto a path curling to the road leading to Kasar Devi village. A few standard hotels with killer Himalayan views to Mohan's cafe. By the sound of a newspaper clipping on the wall, Mohan is a bit of a self made guy also supported via some sort of community based group. The setup is quite smooth with cane chairs, thatched roof, cool light shades etc and slate rock paving leading to the ridge edge. Below a small guest house with kitchen facilities is attached to the cafe.
The library in this cafe / cyber cafe / accomodation hang out is predominantly Israeli and English, with some Italian thrown in as well, reflecting the clientele. This however is the off season and we only see one other westerner iPod in ear and relaxing in the last rays of sun from his deck chair. We order Dum aloo, Jeera Rice, Dhal Fry and Roti. (it is amazing the diversity of English conversions, jeera, aloo, kashmiri etc have multiple spelling variants so don't rely on my spelling) We also make the opportunity and order espresso coffee rather then the sweet Nescafe variety that is the usual suspect when ordering coffee at a restaurant. It is quite nonexistent at any dhaba. Quite a few places since Rishikesh have had these mini antique espresso looking machines, but they are used to froth milk instead of pull shots. The coffee is good but not great.
The night is settled when we leave through the sliding door at the front, confirmation is required as to the direction we take as the forest route is not looking good. We settle into a comfortable rhythm and the night sky is lit by country stars and the lights of Almora. We carry a head torch always these days, which is bright enough to identify our proximity to the road and avoid potholes on the way down. When we enter town it is on a new road and in the dark it is hard to get our bearings. A general store on the road junction though both confirms and directs. We stroll off through the semi darkness and past the still open and lit stores down the road. Some things look better in darkness.
Finish with a bit of Glory trialling the Kaju curry, Chana Masala, plain and garlic naan also have a butterscotch shake and sweet lassi before heading for Shakhar.
http://www.vividimagination.com.au/
We drop down through the industrial park to the Panchachuli women weavers of Kumaon factory. On our second day in Almora we stopped into their store on the mall and were impressed with their shawls, beanies and scarves. Beautiful pashmina and lambs wool, hand woven and vegetable dyed. The industrial park was standard, except for the spray painter working outside with a shirt tied across his face instead of a filter mask, green water coming out of a pipe of another factory and entering the standard drainage system.
The weaving factory however is below and to the side, well signed and with light and airy buildings. The factory employs 300 or so women, who using lambs wool and pashmina (sourced from initially Tibet but due to supply and standard issues now Mongolia) take the product from fibre to finished product. i.e. comb, card, spin, dye, weave etc. The ladies were very smiley and it felt like a support centre in addition to work place. They even had a section where leprosy effected women worked on less demanding machines. The operation had commenced with the support of an NGO and has grown strongly since 2000 when only the bottom floor existed to now three levels and an additional building. The expanded entity is still a registered charitable company. (www.panchachuli.com)
From the factory we pass the preceding businesses again, stopping at a commercial bakery to pick up some cookies pre heading to the higher road. After stopping to pick up some Centre fresh (chewing gum - mentos single serve 1rup) and confirming route due to lack of confirming signage of any sort. Part of the rubbish problem here is that tobacco, chips, gum, peanuts etc are all in plastic packaging. Historically throwing skins or paper was not a problem as it either was eaten by the roaming animals or degraded. Anything that was too large for the proceeding was piled and burnt.
But now the plastics lay not eaten nor degrading and in the populated areas if not washed down the drains first or blown away, or distributed by animals is piled and burnt creating toxic poly smoke that just wafts through the streets and passerby. It is therefore an issue buying in similar way to bottled water as weigh up the use versus the disposal. Mentos does not aid the process by individually packaging each gum. Pressure needs to be mounted first the government via stronger waste education and better waste systems, followed by pressure on the companies by the buying public. Sorry, pet hate and strongest sense of concern for India and Indians.
After wandering whilst appreciating the view back across the valley to Almora and the valley / ridges to Nainital, we spot an aged sikhara temple similar to those seen at Jageshwar but with an arched verandah all the way around the exterior. It is deserted but clearly frequented. The key aspects are here, the tiger, the ox, the water worship etc. The location is again amazing, reinforcing the earth connection, raising question of whether such locations are intended as pilgrimage versus daily worship. There are many shrines to many gods and definitely temples located in communal areas, but the temples at Jageshwar given their size and number are not reflected in the nearby villages. I guess monasteries in Europe were originally similar, but over time monasteries grew into non clergy education facilities, which attracted general business, which attracted specialist business, which generated greater communities and the hub was created. This is not reflected here. Whether Nanda Devi temple complex at Almora is a better example, may be the case. So much yet to learn about religion and human development.
One cool thing at the temple was a cricket pitch has been clearly set up to the side of the temple on the only flat. It amazes me where kids will set up. This pitch has two slate slabs at either end for wickets, a well worn dirt pitch but anything greater then a block with the bat would involve some serious scrambling and climbing for the fielders. Same the kids who play onto of the flat concrete topped buildings or on the roads. Also in the Lalal bazaar, kids and adults playing badminton over the low power lines that criss cross replacing a net, with passing traffic dodging depending upon inclination. Kids playing lasso with old bike tires, initially raising alarm as to their control ad they fling in close quarters, where oncoming traffic is also watching for fresh cow pats.
 |
| From India, Almora. December 2010 |
 |
| From India, Almora. December 2010 |
 |
| From India, Almora. December 2010 |
The Kasar Devi temple sits on the ridge line and consists of two temples, the first which is lower is dedicated to Goddess Durga and the second a 6th century Shiva temple. The Durga temple is nestled into a massive rock ledge and has some sort of bell disease as not satisfied with one on the entrance gate has hundreds. We watch thermal circling large birds which we take to be eagles but turn out to be vultures. Takes some of the pleasure out of the sight, too many movies of desert vultures and untimely deaths. The Shiva temple up a flight of stairs is plain in itself but sits in a sunny, light and open patch on the high point of the ridge. Invited by the local Sadhu we sit under a covered area fashioned in the shape of a huge mushroom and talk global events, religion and humanity generally.
 |
| From India, Almora. December 2010 |
It is amazing how many people link Australians, almost stereotypically, to the indian student events and immigration policy. Many have no concept of the true geography of the land mass and associated issues such as salinity, water sources and arid landscape. Many also forget how similar humanity are in their strengths and weaknesses. Some points made are fairer than others. The media here also carries only specific stories of Australian content such as Warnes break up with Hurley post texting Australian mum, Australian government compensate Haneef (Indian Dr held under terrorism laws in QLD post London subway attacks) Similar to media globally not many good news stories hit the print. The Warne story captures and holds the english speaking media for three days.
One interesting thing discussed was that India has the largest population of Muslims in the world, larger even than Indonesia. Also that Bangladesh is an Islamic state. One slightly more contentious point discussed, which I shall have to research further, was that a historical reason for the size of this population was due to early Muslim conquerors from towards Persia taxing non Muslim families, resulting in the conversion of many due to poverty.
 |
| From India, Almora. December 2010 |
Decide to move on when the sun starts to set and Soph's lips begin to turn purple, the same color that her hands appear to be. We walk back down past the Durga temple and then onto a path curling to the road leading to Kasar Devi village. A few standard hotels with killer Himalayan views to Mohan's cafe. By the sound of a newspaper clipping on the wall, Mohan is a bit of a self made guy also supported via some sort of community based group. The setup is quite smooth with cane chairs, thatched roof, cool light shades etc and slate rock paving leading to the ridge edge. Below a small guest house with kitchen facilities is attached to the cafe.
The library in this cafe / cyber cafe / accomodation hang out is predominantly Israeli and English, with some Italian thrown in as well, reflecting the clientele. This however is the off season and we only see one other westerner iPod in ear and relaxing in the last rays of sun from his deck chair. We order Dum aloo, Jeera Rice, Dhal Fry and Roti. (it is amazing the diversity of English conversions, jeera, aloo, kashmiri etc have multiple spelling variants so don't rely on my spelling) We also make the opportunity and order espresso coffee rather then the sweet Nescafe variety that is the usual suspect when ordering coffee at a restaurant. It is quite nonexistent at any dhaba. Quite a few places since Rishikesh have had these mini antique espresso looking machines, but they are used to froth milk instead of pull shots. The coffee is good but not great.
The night is settled when we leave through the sliding door at the front, confirmation is required as to the direction we take as the forest route is not looking good. We settle into a comfortable rhythm and the night sky is lit by country stars and the lights of Almora. We carry a head torch always these days, which is bright enough to identify our proximity to the road and avoid potholes on the way down. When we enter town it is on a new road and in the dark it is hard to get our bearings. A general store on the road junction though both confirms and directs. We stroll off through the semi darkness and past the still open and lit stores down the road. Some things look better in darkness.
Finish with a bit of Glory trialling the Kaju curry, Chana Masala, plain and garlic naan also have a butterscotch shake and sweet lassi before heading for Shakhar.
 |
| India, Almora. December 2010 |
http://www.vividimagination.com.au/