Sleep in or more appropriately recover in. Great bed and pass the time with City Slickers on cable.
Stomach is still playing games and not ones that the rest of me is all that keen to play. Thankfully the party is only at one end. Try hard to keep it all together, but it is not something that positive thinking appears to help.
Delay breakfast and instead crack out the Gastro stop. Since being in India we have had periods of various solidity but this is the first actual issue. Everyone knows chilli is as appreciated on the way in as it is on the way out, and Indian food is consistently spiced, with increased sweet exposure and oil/ghee. Even mixed veg is spiced, though the veg is all very fresh. In addition some of the places in which you are eating, food inspectors would make a fortune out of. But phased or frightened by this we have not been. We have consistently been careful ie we have avoided drinking unfiltered water, our diet has been majority veg, searched out freshly cooked versus pre made and selected skinable versus difficult to skin (whilst traveling) fruit. I think one exposure out of many so far is doing well.
We decide to move on at 11ish, check out in India is consistently at 12. We leave Billy (Crystal) early he is still herding cattle post Curly's demise. Though the bed is so comfy, the hot water that we relished yesterday has dryed up, whether mechanically or via everyone else getting in before us. Given the price of the room this is tipping point in our relocation plan. Rishikesh is looking good.
Pack the bags and grab the bikes, and hit the street outside the hotel. Yesterday three weddings were within hearing distance and this morning another is heading along Temple road. It is wedding season as we have repeatedly heard, not sure whether directly tied to Diwali festival or practical aspect of good weather.
This wedding procession is the first that we have seen with an elephant. The elephant is up front with not sure whether it was the bride riding maharaja style, then full on marching band, a bit of a crowd, a cart with amplified Hindi temple music and then another but much higher cart with a platform upon which two people are seated both elaborately made up, clothes and make up so it is difficult to confirm whether groom or bride. I did not catch a great look at the elephant and these streets are quite congested normally let alone when you have an elephant tromping along and Womad festival at full blast.
Many Indians have said that on Indian roads it is a requirement to always keep your wits about you, never make an assumption and have eyes that are everywhere at once, and they were not wrong. It is not a guarantee of definite death as it is suprising what the traffic will swing around, but you would be definitely upping the stakes.
We roll down through the bazaar and old sector to avoid the armageddon streets above. The bazaar is tight and full of people but similar to the spice markets in Delhi if you roll in a consistent direction and vary your speed you can move through quite well. Again the colours, varieties and visual candy is intense. I love the Asian wood lattice work and carving on the terraced buildings, next to which you will pass a temple or Ashram styled building with sculptures/reliefs which are either natural timber or stone, some painted in bright hues. Up onto one of the pedestrian bridges we crossed yesterday, but less hassled by onlookers as they just check out the bikes.
Turn across on the island towards Rishikesh and another bridge across the Ganges. Haridwar is on the edge of one bank of the Ganges backed by some small character etched ridges upon which sit a couple of hindi temples. We both would have loved to have hung around and seen more, (especially given the amount of bed time whilst in town) at least to see the evening spectacle of the gang aarti or river worship where lit candles are floated down the Ganges on little leaf baskets. The decision to move was also based on a similar ceremony occurring at Rishikesh. Past the towering Shiva statue and then back across to Temple rd now Upper rd past the road works. We pull into a elaborate Dhaba that has a beautiful ceiling full of plaster relief work and tables topped with black /green marble. Besides which it is similar to any open fronted Dhaba. The owner is extremely hospitable and we get A grade service, for which he requests we return for lunch and dinner also and we will secure a good price. We are then introduced to the family on our departure. The communication is a little strained and so it is difficult to assess the situation fully, but it all appreciated and the price is sound when presented written down.
Some Dhabas there is a mental calculation only and when no menus are available you are open to some pricing latitude.
Then on further pull over for some bananas and gather a crowd who are all very well natured and we go through the explanation process re the bikes / route / nationality aspects for. We also inspect some shinny plastic wrapped Atlas bikes, when trying to make small talk with the owner he assumes I am asking the price, which turns out to be 2900 rup, about AUD$66. Bargain but not in the market so smile, namaste, wave and ride on.
Out of town the road is a little frightening, the sides are missing a line and or the road edging compressing our proximity with the traffic which appears to have missed the bulletin about Sunday traffic being chilled out. If anything we pass more morons then in the past month and we travel less than 30kms. Maybe it is the churning speaking as it appears not only are we riding solidly, but my stomach is also still in motion, significantly less than earlier, thanks Gastro stop.
What sh@ts you more then anything are rickshaw twits that pull up half in the lane to catch up with people on the side or turn onto the National highway from side roads regardless of speed of entry or who position to u turn without first selecting an ideal location, and moving to the left off the road prior to attempting to turn. I have seen some of these pulled off by taxis (amongst others) in other locations around the world but this is the first on a bike and not being very keen with either losing momentum unnecessarily or being forced further out onto the road risking certain squishing. All this is done without least reflection of road rage, making the accumulating frustration annoying. The beeping is consistent and as mentioned part of the road communication not rage.
Further up we pass an elephant right of way sign. Indicating that if an elephant is crossing it has automatic right of way. I am struck by the logic of this sign and also the possibility of sighting said elephants, unfortunately they are not to be seen and given the discordant hum of motors and various spectrum of horns, I can't blame them. At one time we hear from behind one horn that appears to have stuck, it is getting used so often. When the driver passes in a small Suzuki looking white car, that is packed it looks like an old guy and he is not at all threatened by either approaching vehicles or looking to over take. Therefore either the horn is actually stuck, he has accumulated Indian road fright or has lost his marbles, all of which are not able to be considered until he moves beyond hearing distance.
We pull in to grab some Limca soft drink to keep us going, Soph calls a quick relocation as a swishing holy cow has decided to empty it's bladder right next to her, partially on the road.
We pass out of the forest section and again pass over a river. Following which we roll through a relatively non descript town before climbing river now visible on our right. We also see in the haze dimmed distance the shadows of ridges. My legs start to tingle in anticipation.
Post passing some elaborate Ashrams we pull over to discuss our believed proximity to our proposed accomodation. We are passed by some holy mem who stop to offer directions, offer blessings, identify weaknesses and ask for money. We offer 40rup on the basis that we have little else, to which one identifies it is insignificant in comparison to his weakness and the other that he has missed out. All whilst smiling, patting and blessing. We smile, pat back and move on.
The accomodation is located and post using facilities I proceed to flake out for what turns out to be a few hours. Refreshed partially following a steaming hot shower, we head out and down to the backpacker side of town which is on the other side of the Ganges. It is now post dusk so we have missed the river ceremony for the night. Down the hill after passing numerous adventure, rafting and travel outlets amidst Ashrams, hotels and trinket stores we reach a massive pedestrian suspension bridge below which at quite a drop is the Ganges moving rapidly South. The span is huge and is anchored on either side of the semi gorge. Not only pedestrians are using the bridge as a few motorbikes weave across.
We head to the Little Buddha cafe which overlooks to the Ganges below. Up some stairs to access it is like something out of cast away with slab cut tables, bamboo chairs, predominantly bamboo walls and stairs and light shades that in the evening light resemble straw hats illuminated by the globe and rocking in an almost sea breeze. The sound of water moving through drains outside combined with the haze could trick your mind into thinking it was raining. The food is great but the mango coconut shake is a definite winner. Back to touristy town and so menu includes Indian, Chinese, Mexican, Israeli and Italian options. Prices though larger then Dhaba are not rude. We sit and make up for the lack of a previous dinner and lunch, in the cool surroundings made actually cool by the breeze coming off the Ganges. Though altitude is quite low, the breeze is brisk and so we walk back up the now semi darkened roads to our bed.
We have decided to hang out for a few days pre heading for the hills to ensure we are at full capacity. Sleep is reached with the sound of the breeze rushing through leaves of trees, only interrupted by the metal clacking of roller doors being shut at 10.30pm following businesses regular Sunday trade.