Day by day it is getting harder to get out of bed, it is really starting to chill off but come 9.30 / 10 am in the sun it is quite pleasant. When cycling hot, so the challenge is to not overcompensate with the clothing based upon how cold you feel when walking out the door or at least make it easy to strip off as the body starts to warm up.
We are expecting a hard cycle with known altitude increments but uncertain of just how much gain and fall is involved. The final 22km from Tharli to Gwaldam is a killer finish with at least 715mtr increment up to 1875mtrs.
The cycle is very similar to yesterday, rolling climbs and falls, landslips and roadworks. Some sections though are fantastic as whether due to the slips and roadwork which slow down the traffic or just diminished demand there is intermittent competition which is nice on a sometimes challenging surface.
The firs and deodars are increasing and starting to see more ferns rather than the cactuses from Haridwar to Devaprayag. The tributary from Karenprayag that we now follow is the Pindar river. It is starting to diminish in size but is making up for size in flow. It is a constant ambient sound in the background it is also taking on a deeper green then aqua colour.
After passing through Simli and just before the road junction to Chaukhutiya the road bends over a new concrete bridge that was memorable as it had a separable concrete footpath, not that common. Just after the bridge Soph made comment regard a clanking sound, we pulled over at the road junction to have a look and identified that her Rocky Mountain's metal frame had broken away from the right pannier.
The pannier mounts screw into the frame just above the rear wheel housing on both sides. On the RM the screw housing sits alone above the main frame tubing and is not reinforced, only being molded on one side. This side completely failed shearing from the frame. Unfortunately when it did so the housing appears to have slipped into the rim the pressure sufficient to snap a spoke in the rim and as fate would have it, on the rear gear cog side.
Prior to leaving we stocked up on tools and spares for the bikes knowing that we were entering an area where these bikes are not in use. We however declined bringing a chain whip necessary to remove the rear cog, partly due to weight and partially due to weighing the risk.
So after a few choice words, groans and raising of stress lines we pulled out the electrical tape with which we strapped the pannier housing directly to the frame and anchored the snapped spoke to it's crossing partner spoke so that it could not cause further damage. We will have to reassess at the end of the day from our accommodation and deal with the damage / tool issue when able. On the side of the road with 62km left to travel this was the best solution we could agree on. Soph limped on surprisingly well, difficult to draft and keep an eye on the patching as she powered up the hill.
Before Kulsari we came across a team of locals who initially we thought may have set up a local checkpoint, but on closer inspection found were carting a massive tree log recently felled and trimmed of it's branches. Where and why were forsaken as we cycled by. Just up further though the traffic had been completely stopped as a second log was angled off the bank above and across the road, with a second team of lumberjacks or locals up on the hill. We decided to cycle pass as the bikes had the size capacity to be able to slip through.
On the hill leading to Tharli we pass another road break but slightly more permanent. A massize bolder, the size of a small bus had been dislodged from the slope and was covering a good half of the road. Initially we believed completely, but a small bus, followed by a truck were able to weave pass on the upper bank side.
In Tharli we stopped for lunch and to assess the options, Gwaldam was only a further 22km but it was now 1.30pm and we knew that the final climb would take at least four hours with the weight, altitude gain and being tired. Lunch was great with good chapattis, fryed dhal, mixed veg and a fish curry. We broke from the rule to go fish as the fish was sourced from the river below and the opportunity to add some mix was just too tempting. We relocated further up the road to a tea store while Soph went and inspected the lodge option. She came back with an, if desperate, so whilst she had tea I went and spoke with a couple of guys about hiring a jeep, which after some confirming on their behalf regarding the bikes fitting ok was locked in. 350rup for the pleasure which I think the locals thought was impressive on behalf of the jeep driver but we were more than happy with.
Similar to the ride to Chindi, the full appreciation didn't come until we had been climbing and weaving for some time. The view of Mount Trishul (7120mtr) further to the North increasing the higher we climbed out of the valley. In fact Trishul was joined by Nanda Ghungti to it's left as two very definable peaks, crystal in the afternoon sun.
The sun quickly set and fell, the temperature following rapidly. This place is cold, not Tibetan cold, but cold. Soph is up to three layers of thermals already. But the hotel, Hotel Trishul, has hot bucket water in the bathroom, clean rooms, linen and three doonas. Unfortunately the doors have serious bottom gaps which, diminish the effectiveness of the carpeted floors. When we first got to the room, the manager warned us against leaving the door open when he noticed we had fruit, specifically bananas. Monkeys. We see a few scampering across roof tops. We close the door out onto the balcony.
We decide to head out for tea when the power fails leaving the hotel and most of town in darkness. The dhabas most using gas remain open and convert to hastily distributed candles. I note to Soph that back in the room I had assumed the candles were for atmosphere...
When we go to bed it is under all the doonas available and with thermals and beanie. South East Asia may be on cards earlier than expected.