Day 1 - Kathmandu to Namche (via Lukla airport)
Arrived airport at 5am on travel agents advice. Share the verandah of the not yet open domestic terminal with a friendly dog. We all enjoy breakfast of pastries. Various deliveries of paper wrapped and bound goods to share the various flights dropped also on the verandah. 5.30am one other westerner arrives followed 5 mins later by another.
We continue to stand guard by the front doors, every now and then peering in to see if there is any response to our presence. Over the next ten minutes locals start to turn up. A small crowd and still no action at the doors. 5.50am airport policeman comes across and attempts to unlock but has been bolted outside.
Once we make it inside we pay the 170 rup per person airport levy and attain boarding pass. At 6.20am a flight is called...Tara Air to Lukla...we make our way to the boarding gates but told not us. Given our boarding pass had flight number one we had made the assumption, but incorrect. We wait for another 50 mins, slowly getting a little tired of hanging around when finally Tara to Lukla is called up again. We board a small bus out onto the Tarmac.
Past all the planes on first inspection and wondering just what we are flying in. Arrive next to an older DHC-6/300 Twin Otter. Load in three to a row. No stuffing around once we are in. Hostess in long green traditional skirt serves lollies down the narrow aisle. Take off very soon after.
Unfortunately fog and haze obscues much of the view until we are well and truly over the mountains. When they do come into view they are close. New experience passing over versus slowly cycling up.
Not long after we hit our first turbulence which puts your heart in your throat. Abdominal muscles tighten as if to assist keeping everything in place. The plane continues to involuntarilly duck and weave and then levels out again. Inspect the view of the snow crested range growing closer. But now more intently, as if scanning for potential touch down points, of which there appear none. Pilots, who we can all see, in the cockpit appear pretty chilled out. Good sign. Hit similar turbulence three more times before the plane banks to the left. Whilst banking hits turbulence a final time which really puts everybody on edge.
Plane passes through the narrow valley's walls as the airport sitting on the ridge line below is in view. The aircraft circles the now very close mountain valley ridge, lining up the landing strip down and in front. The plane drops quite quickly as the steep airstrip comes closer. The plane touches down rolling uphill to the applause of those on board. Several people discuss on exiting the plane that walking out is now a serious consideration. We had considered walking in but had decided against as three additional days of walking from Jiri the last bus stand into the hills.
Out into brisk morning air, collect our bags, pass the waiting crowd of porters at the airport's side gate and head onto the streets of Lukla. Past several bakeries with Lavazza and Illy coffee signs, followed by a Starbucks. Would not be surprised to see a McDonalds or KFC around the next corner. Check in our TIMS card(Free Independant Trekker) and then onto the trail proper having spun a few prayer wheels on the way.
The appreciation of how different the experience from the ABC trek is fast dawning with the river already well below in the valley and the snow crested mountains already showing our close proximity. The path itself starting as more of a stroll. Dropping from Lukla (2850m) to Cheplung where we stop in at the Norbu Linkha one of three lodges that burnt down in 2006, but since then, rebuilt.
Order apple pie having heard good reviews and two cups of hot lemon. Apple pie when it arrives is fresh and steaming living up to good review. More like apple pastie - lightly fried pastry with apple grated inside. Spot the Rangdo Gompa high on the hill to our right built into a shear rock face. Will have to check out on the way down.
Views of valley to our left still rising sharply from the Dudh Kosi (Milk river) below. Fine mist flowing across higher peaks. Continue on to Phakding (2640m) where most groups stop for the night. The slopes where they are not shear rock face or ploughed field with rock walls, largely tall pines. Pass some fancy resort style lodges. Mikaru (westerners) are clearly the bread and butter for many Sherpas living up here, and we pass a few groups guide and several porters carrying three to four full packs and then the Westies bringing up the rear with small day packs. God knows what they have packed, but fair share are definitely yuppie trekkers. We, on the other hand have all our gear in day packs and only two sets of clothes. Still allowance for chocolate/trail mix (Sophie snacks) and full first aid / emergency kit.
There was a prosaic assessment of the relationship as identified from a Sherpa womans perspective in a fantastic autobiography by Jamling Tenzing Norgay ( the son of Tenzing Norgay ) titled "Touching my Fathers Soul". It read; "Mikaru are much like cattle, they are happy wandering about aimlessly all day long... they are constantly getting sick..., and you have to lead them by the nose over difficult terrain or they'll fall off the trail.. But if you feed them well, they'll produce a lot of fresh milk for you."
At Chumoa we have lunch of fried rice and veg noodle soup at bakery on the higher side of the village. Toilets here are wooden drop toilets using heaped piles of pine needles to cover use. The smell as a result is great and feels clean and earthy. Might install one when we get home.
Check in with Sagarmatha national park officer at the entrance of the park at Jorsale. Beyond which more Mani stoned walls and carving are present...quite common in the area. Paths splitting to circle occasional large boulders into which "Om Mani Padme Hum" (hail to the jewel in the lotus) is carved in large tibetan letters sometimes further highlighted by being painted white. The intention of the stones being to help focus peoples thoughts on buddhist teaching and assist in bringing about a positive state of mind.
Post lunch decision to make Namche Bazaar, we crisscross the river via metal suspension bridges (swiss assisted construction) set high above the river. Unfortunately the path is now following closely by the bank and so we climb stairs to bridge crossings to again descend to the river side.
Many bridges set high, after the bridges were taken out in 1977, when an avalanche off Ama Dablam (6812m) falling into a lake, resulted in a large wall of water heading down the valley. Past Jorsale on the east side of the river we climb higher than previously up a long stairway to a rock outcrop where a huge suspension bridge crosses above the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and the Imja Khola(stream) before becoming the Dudh below. Prayer flags and kata (long cream silk Buddhist scarves) tied to the bridge and flapping wildly in the wind.
Normally views, per our guidebook, of Everest but obscured by misty white cloud sitting low up through the gorge. Steep winding ascent to Top Danda, halfway up the hill to Namche. Until the 1800s this was the Tibetan border. Top referring to a canon, the outpost of Namche, which given the cut valley due to the confluence makes sense. No canon now, but a group of Sherpa women selling oranges (mandarins). Quite a happy go lucky crowd especially given the weather, but we decline the offer instead continuing on and up the well pounded dirt trail to Namche.
The final climb to Namche (3450m) is fine, as the ascent path is continuous rather than short and sharp. Appreciate the opportunity to again ground my heels as we ascend. Sign in at the police post before entering via the Buddhist entrance arch, called a Kani, which is used to cleanse bad spiritual baggage that those entering may bring. Unfortunately it does not diminish the masses of other unnecessary baggage passing through it, albeit on the backs of either porters or donkeys.
Rock paved stairs lead up towards the lodges curled in the tight valley as if in an amphitheater with the stage being a view toward the sheer drop to the river below and Kongde(6187m) mtn on the other side.
The stairway leads past a series of small tin covered sheds in which reside prayer wheels but set up to be water powered by a small stream that follows the path. Lodges sitting on terraced ledges appear huge and quite consistent with a western ski resort, quite a few being two to three if not more floors high. Namche or Nauche as known by the Sherpas is derived from an older name referring to a big dark forest which is not much in evidence in the bowl of the valley with no pines clearly visible other then high on the slopes and then small.
Pass again a range of bakeries, cyber cafes and equipment stores before concentrating on lodging options. We approach a few but similar to Annapurna, same pricing structure and common room layout making comparison difficult. Again value is hidden generally in the menu and dependent upon food quality and quantity for price. Hot showers 300rup pp extra on top of room rate. Battery recharging 100rup per hr. Eat main meals elsewhere and risk tripling of the room rate.Internet use per min 10rup. When converted not expensive, but when you have been traveling in Nepal or India for a while feels initially very expensive, until you take into account where you are.
Settle on the pine and rock constructed Camp Debase up the hill slightly from the main bazaar on staircase leading towards Tengboche. Share lodge with a group traveling with Intrepid (run locally by Himalayan encounters) who are heading to Base camp. Has all the feel of a mini everest expedition which feels a little overplayed given the quality of the tracks and the tea house trekking experience. Altitude sickness is still a real possibility however so park initial assessment, at least for time being. Drop off to bed early post good meal of Dal Bhaat, exhausted following combination of early morning, change of scene, walk and altitude.
Arrived airport at 5am on travel agents advice. Share the verandah of the not yet open domestic terminal with a friendly dog. We all enjoy breakfast of pastries. Various deliveries of paper wrapped and bound goods to share the various flights dropped also on the verandah. 5.30am one other westerner arrives followed 5 mins later by another.
We continue to stand guard by the front doors, every now and then peering in to see if there is any response to our presence. Over the next ten minutes locals start to turn up. A small crowd and still no action at the doors. 5.50am airport policeman comes across and attempts to unlock but has been bolted outside.
Once we make it inside we pay the 170 rup per person airport levy and attain boarding pass. At 6.20am a flight is called...Tara Air to Lukla...we make our way to the boarding gates but told not us. Given our boarding pass had flight number one we had made the assumption, but incorrect. We wait for another 50 mins, slowly getting a little tired of hanging around when finally Tara to Lukla is called up again. We board a small bus out onto the Tarmac.
Past all the planes on first inspection and wondering just what we are flying in. Arrive next to an older DHC-6/300 Twin Otter. Load in three to a row. No stuffing around once we are in. Hostess in long green traditional skirt serves lollies down the narrow aisle. Take off very soon after.
Unfortunately fog and haze obscues much of the view until we are well and truly over the mountains. When they do come into view they are close. New experience passing over versus slowly cycling up.
Not long after we hit our first turbulence which puts your heart in your throat. Abdominal muscles tighten as if to assist keeping everything in place. The plane continues to involuntarilly duck and weave and then levels out again. Inspect the view of the snow crested range growing closer. But now more intently, as if scanning for potential touch down points, of which there appear none. Pilots, who we can all see, in the cockpit appear pretty chilled out. Good sign. Hit similar turbulence three more times before the plane banks to the left. Whilst banking hits turbulence a final time which really puts everybody on edge.
Plane passes through the narrow valley's walls as the airport sitting on the ridge line below is in view. The aircraft circles the now very close mountain valley ridge, lining up the landing strip down and in front. The plane drops quite quickly as the steep airstrip comes closer. The plane touches down rolling uphill to the applause of those on board. Several people discuss on exiting the plane that walking out is now a serious consideration. We had considered walking in but had decided against as three additional days of walking from Jiri the last bus stand into the hills.
Out into brisk morning air, collect our bags, pass the waiting crowd of porters at the airport's side gate and head onto the streets of Lukla. Past several bakeries with Lavazza and Illy coffee signs, followed by a Starbucks. Would not be surprised to see a McDonalds or KFC around the next corner. Check in our TIMS card(Free Independant Trekker) and then onto the trail proper having spun a few prayer wheels on the way.
 |
Order apple pie having heard good reviews and two cups of hot lemon. Apple pie when it arrives is fresh and steaming living up to good review. More like apple pastie - lightly fried pastry with apple grated inside. Spot the Rangdo Gompa high on the hill to our right built into a shear rock face. Will have to check out on the way down.
 |
Views of valley to our left still rising sharply from the Dudh Kosi (Milk river) below. Fine mist flowing across higher peaks. Continue on to Phakding (2640m) where most groups stop for the night. The slopes where they are not shear rock face or ploughed field with rock walls, largely tall pines. Pass some fancy resort style lodges. Mikaru (westerners) are clearly the bread and butter for many Sherpas living up here, and we pass a few groups guide and several porters carrying three to four full packs and then the Westies bringing up the rear with small day packs. God knows what they have packed, but fair share are definitely yuppie trekkers. We, on the other hand have all our gear in day packs and only two sets of clothes. Still allowance for chocolate/trail mix (Sophie snacks) and full first aid / emergency kit.
There was a prosaic assessment of the relationship as identified from a Sherpa womans perspective in a fantastic autobiography by Jamling Tenzing Norgay ( the son of Tenzing Norgay ) titled "Touching my Fathers Soul". It read; "Mikaru are much like cattle, they are happy wandering about aimlessly all day long... they are constantly getting sick..., and you have to lead them by the nose over difficult terrain or they'll fall off the trail.. But if you feed them well, they'll produce a lot of fresh milk for you."
At Chumoa we have lunch of fried rice and veg noodle soup at bakery on the higher side of the village. Toilets here are wooden drop toilets using heaped piles of pine needles to cover use. The smell as a result is great and feels clean and earthy. Might install one when we get home.
Check in with Sagarmatha national park officer at the entrance of the park at Jorsale. Beyond which more Mani stoned walls and carving are present...quite common in the area. Paths splitting to circle occasional large boulders into which "Om Mani Padme Hum" (hail to the jewel in the lotus) is carved in large tibetan letters sometimes further highlighted by being painted white. The intention of the stones being to help focus peoples thoughts on buddhist teaching and assist in bringing about a positive state of mind.
Post lunch decision to make Namche Bazaar, we crisscross the river via metal suspension bridges (swiss assisted construction) set high above the river. Unfortunately the path is now following closely by the bank and so we climb stairs to bridge crossings to again descend to the river side.
Many bridges set high, after the bridges were taken out in 1977, when an avalanche off Ama Dablam (6812m) falling into a lake, resulted in a large wall of water heading down the valley. Past Jorsale on the east side of the river we climb higher than previously up a long stairway to a rock outcrop where a huge suspension bridge crosses above the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and the Imja Khola(stream) before becoming the Dudh below. Prayer flags and kata (long cream silk Buddhist scarves) tied to the bridge and flapping wildly in the wind.
Normally views, per our guidebook, of Everest but obscured by misty white cloud sitting low up through the gorge. Steep winding ascent to Top Danda, halfway up the hill to Namche. Until the 1800s this was the Tibetan border. Top referring to a canon, the outpost of Namche, which given the cut valley due to the confluence makes sense. No canon now, but a group of Sherpa women selling oranges (mandarins). Quite a happy go lucky crowd especially given the weather, but we decline the offer instead continuing on and up the well pounded dirt trail to Namche.
The final climb to Namche (3450m) is fine, as the ascent path is continuous rather than short and sharp. Appreciate the opportunity to again ground my heels as we ascend. Sign in at the police post before entering via the Buddhist entrance arch, called a Kani, which is used to cleanse bad spiritual baggage that those entering may bring. Unfortunately it does not diminish the masses of other unnecessary baggage passing through it, albeit on the backs of either porters or donkeys.
Rock paved stairs lead up towards the lodges curled in the tight valley as if in an amphitheater with the stage being a view toward the sheer drop to the river below and Kongde(6187m) mtn on the other side.
The stairway leads past a series of small tin covered sheds in which reside prayer wheels but set up to be water powered by a small stream that follows the path. Lodges sitting on terraced ledges appear huge and quite consistent with a western ski resort, quite a few being two to three if not more floors high. Namche or Nauche as known by the Sherpas is derived from an older name referring to a big dark forest which is not much in evidence in the bowl of the valley with no pines clearly visible other then high on the slopes and then small.
Pass again a range of bakeries, cyber cafes and equipment stores before concentrating on lodging options. We approach a few but similar to Annapurna, same pricing structure and common room layout making comparison difficult. Again value is hidden generally in the menu and dependent upon food quality and quantity for price. Hot showers 300rup pp extra on top of room rate. Battery recharging 100rup per hr. Eat main meals elsewhere and risk tripling of the room rate.Internet use per min 10rup. When converted not expensive, but when you have been traveling in Nepal or India for a while feels initially very expensive, until you take into account where you are.
Settle on the pine and rock constructed Camp Debase up the hill slightly from the main bazaar on staircase leading towards Tengboche. Share lodge with a group traveling with Intrepid (run locally by Himalayan encounters) who are heading to Base camp. Has all the feel of a mini everest expedition which feels a little overplayed given the quality of the tracks and the tea house trekking experience. Altitude sickness is still a real possibility however so park initial assessment, at least for time being. Drop off to bed early post good meal of Dal Bhaat, exhausted following combination of early morning, change of scene, walk and altitude.
No comments:
Post a Comment