Day 2 - Namche rest day (Khunde, Khumjung)
Wake late allowing the Intrepid guys to clear out of the dining room. Chilly even with fluffy lodge blankets. Have decided to use an extra day in Namche to assist acclimatization. Choose to plod (calves still a little worked out) up the stairs further toward Tengboche, but at Choigang swing up the steep ridge line following a small back track to Syandboche (3900mtr) and the old dirt airstrip above. The airstrip not being used much any more as only small single engined planes able to touch down. Bar the height and the lack of tar it feels flatter then Lukla and less exposed, but I guess the incline (which I read at Lukla is about an 8 degree upward angle though it feels closer to 30 when the plane sounds like it remains on full throttle to roll up to the strip) is only a part of the story, with cross winds and mountain restricted approach distances being very important also.
From the top corner of the airstrip we follow the path up and back into the pines past a porter rest area, through a small snowdrift covered pass down into Khunde (3840mtr). Khunde a small cluster of rock walled fields and houses backs onto the Khumbui Yul Lha (5765m) the Sherpa holy mountain ("country god" of Khumbu). High on the ridge leading to the sheer mountain behind is a memorial to Sir Edmund Hillary's wife and daughter tragically killed in a plane crash when coming to visit him on one of his many trips to the Khumbu. Many infrastructure aspects of the region reflecting the great work that the trust that he established (Himalayan Trust) has achieved with the local communities and people.
The Khumbu is believed to be one of many Beyul or sanctuaries that Guru Rinpoche predicted and sanctified for the people of the Tibetan region to flee to in times of trouble. Whether as a result the Sherpa a Tibetan descended people now call the valley home.
Following entry via a Kani and then a central wall made of hundreds of mani stones leading to a Nepalese stupa (or Chorten as known in Tibet). Directed by an aged Sherpa, who was taking a leak outside his house when we walked down the stairs, we looped the whole setup in effect sending us back out of town and through the Kani again.
Into town proper and follow the rock wall bordered paths that swerve between the village's currently bare fields. The occasional white fleck has us wondering whether the wind is picking up the fallen snow off the ridge above. By the time we have wandered up towards the gompa high on the hillside the few flecks have increased in frequency and we have donned our wind stoppers and beanies. Down towards Khumjung (Jung meaning lower flats and Khum or Khumbu area, de or as originally te is upper) and we are now surrounded in constant snow flecks but small instead of large flakes. Passed by older Sherpa women making for their houses after working in their potatoe fields during the morning. We decide to retreat to the Sherpaland lodge for some warmth.
By the time we leave, following another groups entry, the wind has picked up and is blowing the still little flecks directly at us. We leave the town past another long line of mani stones and stairs through a second pass and back down to Syangboche. Snow starting to coat the ground as we cut back down to Namche following yak eroded trails through the small shrubs. Straight into the dinning room of the lodge and order Dal Bhaat. Semi warm relocate to bed and watch through the window the snow gather pace. Fall to sleep with a slight altitude induced headache.
Another great quote from Tenzing's book coming to mind; "We shouldn't believe that small wrongdoing can do no harm, because even a small spark can ignite a giant pile of hay. Similiarly, the value of the smallest good deeds should not be underestimated, for even tiny flakes of snow, falling one atop another, can blanket the tallest mountains in pure whiteness."
Wake late allowing the Intrepid guys to clear out of the dining room. Chilly even with fluffy lodge blankets. Have decided to use an extra day in Namche to assist acclimatization. Choose to plod (calves still a little worked out) up the stairs further toward Tengboche, but at Choigang swing up the steep ridge line following a small back track to Syandboche (3900mtr) and the old dirt airstrip above. The airstrip not being used much any more as only small single engined planes able to touch down. Bar the height and the lack of tar it feels flatter then Lukla and less exposed, but I guess the incline (which I read at Lukla is about an 8 degree upward angle though it feels closer to 30 when the plane sounds like it remains on full throttle to roll up to the strip) is only a part of the story, with cross winds and mountain restricted approach distances being very important also.
From the top corner of the airstrip we follow the path up and back into the pines past a porter rest area, through a small snowdrift covered pass down into Khunde (3840mtr). Khunde a small cluster of rock walled fields and houses backs onto the Khumbui Yul Lha (5765m) the Sherpa holy mountain ("country god" of Khumbu). High on the ridge leading to the sheer mountain behind is a memorial to Sir Edmund Hillary's wife and daughter tragically killed in a plane crash when coming to visit him on one of his many trips to the Khumbu. Many infrastructure aspects of the region reflecting the great work that the trust that he established (Himalayan Trust) has achieved with the local communities and people.
The Khumbu is believed to be one of many Beyul or sanctuaries that Guru Rinpoche predicted and sanctified for the people of the Tibetan region to flee to in times of trouble. Whether as a result the Sherpa a Tibetan descended people now call the valley home.
Following entry via a Kani and then a central wall made of hundreds of mani stones leading to a Nepalese stupa (or Chorten as known in Tibet). Directed by an aged Sherpa, who was taking a leak outside his house when we walked down the stairs, we looped the whole setup in effect sending us back out of town and through the Kani again.
Into town proper and follow the rock wall bordered paths that swerve between the village's currently bare fields. The occasional white fleck has us wondering whether the wind is picking up the fallen snow off the ridge above. By the time we have wandered up towards the gompa high on the hillside the few flecks have increased in frequency and we have donned our wind stoppers and beanies. Down towards Khumjung (Jung meaning lower flats and Khum or Khumbu area, de or as originally te is upper) and we are now surrounded in constant snow flecks but small instead of large flakes. Passed by older Sherpa women making for their houses after working in their potatoe fields during the morning. We decide to retreat to the Sherpaland lodge for some warmth.
By the time we leave, following another groups entry, the wind has picked up and is blowing the still little flecks directly at us. We leave the town past another long line of mani stones and stairs through a second pass and back down to Syangboche. Snow starting to coat the ground as we cut back down to Namche following yak eroded trails through the small shrubs. Straight into the dinning room of the lodge and order Dal Bhaat. Semi warm relocate to bed and watch through the window the snow gather pace. Fall to sleep with a slight altitude induced headache.
Another great quote from Tenzing's book coming to mind; "We shouldn't believe that small wrongdoing can do no harm, because even a small spark can ignite a giant pile of hay. Similiarly, the value of the smallest good deeds should not be underestimated, for even tiny flakes of snow, falling one atop another, can blanket the tallest mountains in pure whiteness."
No comments:
Post a Comment