Day 11 - Namche to Lukla
Wake to sound of light chanting at 6am, quite peaceful. After breakfast Soph heads up with the families blessing and sits cross legged on the benches with the monks. The ritual involving the individual reading from separate Nyingmapa (Tibetan scripts) by each of the monks.
Some, generally the older, know the scripts printed on long rectangular sheets off by heart. It seems a relatively casual affair where mobile calls are taken, entry in and out of the room and tea is on constant offering served via the families grandmother.
We leave the house at 10.30am, the father having identified that flights from Kathmandu cancelled today due to fog cover in Kathmandu and Lukla. Down the trail we pass a constant stream of porters carrying Dokos loaded with all sort of goods for the Saturday bazaar in Namche. Cartons of beer, powdered milk, large white heshian bags of clothes, large metal containers of mustard oil, soap, kerosene etc. All stacked up high in the woven baskets with the forehead straps tight, walking leaning on staves in a T shape. Used as walking stave on the flats but then a prop for the basket when tired having struggled up hill. Some of the loads being carried by these guys are really full on.
Apparently the markets are big. Tibetans are even known during summer to cross the Nangpa La pass from Tibet to trade. These days less salt (tibetan salt being rock salt and non iodized - not great for health but still preferred by some sherpa for their tea) and wool, more chinese white goods.
Top Danda's side porter rest stop was full. To make conditions more challenging also pass Zopkyoks (Yak and Cow crossbreed) with saddle and bells also sharing the trails and a light drizzle is falling making the trail slippery. Cross the bridge high over the confluence having to lean over the side every now and again to allow passing loaded up porter to pass in the opposite direction. The mist adding to the mystery of the side valleys that we pass. Through Toktok (2760mtr) and pass the waterfall where the buds are starting to bloom. Fair share of Rai also heading up to the Saturday Bazaar. Ethnic group from lower in the valley identifiable by height, coloring and female jewelry including nose rings.
Make Lukla at about 2.30pm in time to checkin with Yeti before 4pm which ensures your consideration for the following days flights. The system working on the basis that those booked with tomorrows date get preference followed by those with booked tickets but who have been unable to fly and then those who have open tickets and who have been waiting the longest time. So basically we, on open tickets would only get a seat if the guys from today who had been unable to get out.
Continue along the uneven paths to the Paradise lodge right next to the airport runstrip. Photos of Hillary on the wall with the lodge owner. Quite a crowd due to one extra days worth of Trekkers being unable to fly out. Use the third bed in our room to lock the door that night as the internal bolt had been broken. Very quiet night.
Wake to sound of light chanting at 6am, quite peaceful. After breakfast Soph heads up with the families blessing and sits cross legged on the benches with the monks. The ritual involving the individual reading from separate Nyingmapa (Tibetan scripts) by each of the monks.
Some, generally the older, know the scripts printed on long rectangular sheets off by heart. It seems a relatively casual affair where mobile calls are taken, entry in and out of the room and tea is on constant offering served via the families grandmother.
We leave the house at 10.30am, the father having identified that flights from Kathmandu cancelled today due to fog cover in Kathmandu and Lukla. Down the trail we pass a constant stream of porters carrying Dokos loaded with all sort of goods for the Saturday bazaar in Namche. Cartons of beer, powdered milk, large white heshian bags of clothes, large metal containers of mustard oil, soap, kerosene etc. All stacked up high in the woven baskets with the forehead straps tight, walking leaning on staves in a T shape. Used as walking stave on the flats but then a prop for the basket when tired having struggled up hill. Some of the loads being carried by these guys are really full on.
Apparently the markets are big. Tibetans are even known during summer to cross the Nangpa La pass from Tibet to trade. These days less salt (tibetan salt being rock salt and non iodized - not great for health but still preferred by some sherpa for their tea) and wool, more chinese white goods.
Top Danda's side porter rest stop was full. To make conditions more challenging also pass Zopkyoks (Yak and Cow crossbreed) with saddle and bells also sharing the trails and a light drizzle is falling making the trail slippery. Cross the bridge high over the confluence having to lean over the side every now and again to allow passing loaded up porter to pass in the opposite direction. The mist adding to the mystery of the side valleys that we pass. Through Toktok (2760mtr) and pass the waterfall where the buds are starting to bloom. Fair share of Rai also heading up to the Saturday Bazaar. Ethnic group from lower in the valley identifiable by height, coloring and female jewelry including nose rings.
Make Lukla at about 2.30pm in time to checkin with Yeti before 4pm which ensures your consideration for the following days flights. The system working on the basis that those booked with tomorrows date get preference followed by those with booked tickets but who have been unable to fly and then those who have open tickets and who have been waiting the longest time. So basically we, on open tickets would only get a seat if the guys from today who had been unable to get out.
Continue along the uneven paths to the Paradise lodge right next to the airport runstrip. Photos of Hillary on the wall with the lodge owner. Quite a crowd due to one extra days worth of Trekkers being unable to fly out. Use the third bed in our room to lock the door that night as the internal bolt had been broken. Very quiet night.
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