Day 3 - Namche to Phortse Tenga
Up late for what appears to be group mountain trekking standard of around 6am, or at least that is when you can hear the thump of trekking boots echoing down the hall on the thin plywood. That is excluding the various night time excursions of users to the bathroom. Apparently a good sign when ascending. No rush as we are planning another short walk due to further acclimatization. Only up and over to Phortse Tenga our first stop in the Gokyo valley or Death valley as refered to by helicopter pilots (per our guidebook) due to trekkers overlooking acclimatization needs. Sky is brilliant blue with few clouds on the horizon.
Again the climb up to Choigang (note spelling varies for many places depending upon author of map or book) and then gradual inclement of a contouring trail around to Kyangjuma (3550mtr). Beautiful peak of Ama Dablam jutting into the sky up the valley. Spot a brightly feathered pair of Tibetan snow cocks poking around in a semi bare field. Again feeling of alpine country due to blue pine and fir. Pass Intrepid group at Kyangjuma who continue straight to Tengboche versus deviating to the left towards Gokyo.
A couple of times made to jump as passing Red billed chough zoom by with magpie close intensity. These black bodied birds (but with red feet and beaks) dive past like fighter planes tucking their wings in tight to their bodies as they drop off the edge of the valley. They pass with no identifiable malice, but have no apparent concern of scaring the hair off your head in passing with a near sonic boom. Sparking off flight or fight instincts in those easily on edge.
From Kyangjuma we reach the trail junction of Khunde / Tengboche and immediately deviate up a steep ascent on a smaller dirt path above Sanasa. Most of the way to Mong (3973mtr) the trail remains in the sun but towards the top of the trail crest increasing bitter wind. Looking back across to the valley of Lobuche the mountain range including Cholatse (6335mtr) leads down to the high plain on which sits Phortse high above the confluence of the young Dudh Kosi Nadi and the Imja Khola.
Reach Mong and the white Chorten which visually marks it. Decide to have lunch in smaller lodge Mountain View as it has benches under the valley side windows giving not only gorgeous views of the mountains but also full back warming sun. Dal Bhaat is great and generous. Perfect lunch. Asked outside by a guide sitting with client where our guide is, point to the book in Soph's hand.
From Mong fleece back on as descend fast or at least faster then ascent but into the increasingly sun shaded valley below. The folds on the now leeward side quite fresh as confirmed by the snow and occasional ice crossing the path. At Phortse Tenga (Tenga meaning bridge) continue down to the river and the bridge that identifies it. Valley thin before squeezing through a gorge below the trail junction.
Settle into the River resort lodge at 1.30pm. We crack open the wallet for a shared bucket of hot water (200rup) prior to heading back out for some exploration of the river side. Nearly implant myself in the paving outside the main door thanks to some black ice. Head down to the river past a couple of sheds built with rocks into the side of massize river boulders. Cross the river on a rough log bridge following a team of yaks who without any apparent supervision slowly mount the bridge stairs and then quite methodically cross the bridge.
Start to climb slowly towards Phortse through golden paper barked trees draped with fine lite green tendrils of moss. Have company of a small cow until decide to instead return to riverside to investigate a section where the fast flowing river disappears under snow prior to slipping down through the canyon. In our attempts to access we pass a tree tall accumulation of ice from no apparent source, before crossing and post a little bush bashing reach the canyon wall.
In the tight scrubby bush squeezed between large river boulders we descend before the mouth of an empty cave. A little further along we heard something move off without our being able to see with a slight whistling sound. Visions of yeti filling thoughts. Gokyo valley is quite known for Yeti myth. ( have since read Reinhold Messner's My quest for the Yeti, in which he details his search post an encounter. Messner is one of the most renown mountain climbers in the world, but the book is not fantastic)
Back to the Lodge for early dinner. Bed early as furnace in the dining room had run out of wood. Room freezing and Soph certain that outside warmer. Thin blankets turn out to be great as must be down filled. Warm if restless night. No vivid dreams as not asleep long enough for REM sleep to set in.
Up late for what appears to be group mountain trekking standard of around 6am, or at least that is when you can hear the thump of trekking boots echoing down the hall on the thin plywood. That is excluding the various night time excursions of users to the bathroom. Apparently a good sign when ascending. No rush as we are planning another short walk due to further acclimatization. Only up and over to Phortse Tenga our first stop in the Gokyo valley or Death valley as refered to by helicopter pilots (per our guidebook) due to trekkers overlooking acclimatization needs. Sky is brilliant blue with few clouds on the horizon.
Again the climb up to Choigang (note spelling varies for many places depending upon author of map or book) and then gradual inclement of a contouring trail around to Kyangjuma (3550mtr). Beautiful peak of Ama Dablam jutting into the sky up the valley. Spot a brightly feathered pair of Tibetan snow cocks poking around in a semi bare field. Again feeling of alpine country due to blue pine and fir. Pass Intrepid group at Kyangjuma who continue straight to Tengboche versus deviating to the left towards Gokyo.
A couple of times made to jump as passing Red billed chough zoom by with magpie close intensity. These black bodied birds (but with red feet and beaks) dive past like fighter planes tucking their wings in tight to their bodies as they drop off the edge of the valley. They pass with no identifiable malice, but have no apparent concern of scaring the hair off your head in passing with a near sonic boom. Sparking off flight or fight instincts in those easily on edge.
From Kyangjuma we reach the trail junction of Khunde / Tengboche and immediately deviate up a steep ascent on a smaller dirt path above Sanasa. Most of the way to Mong (3973mtr) the trail remains in the sun but towards the top of the trail crest increasing bitter wind. Looking back across to the valley of Lobuche the mountain range including Cholatse (6335mtr) leads down to the high plain on which sits Phortse high above the confluence of the young Dudh Kosi Nadi and the Imja Khola.
Reach Mong and the white Chorten which visually marks it. Decide to have lunch in smaller lodge Mountain View as it has benches under the valley side windows giving not only gorgeous views of the mountains but also full back warming sun. Dal Bhaat is great and generous. Perfect lunch. Asked outside by a guide sitting with client where our guide is, point to the book in Soph's hand.
From Mong fleece back on as descend fast or at least faster then ascent but into the increasingly sun shaded valley below. The folds on the now leeward side quite fresh as confirmed by the snow and occasional ice crossing the path. At Phortse Tenga (Tenga meaning bridge) continue down to the river and the bridge that identifies it. Valley thin before squeezing through a gorge below the trail junction.
Settle into the River resort lodge at 1.30pm. We crack open the wallet for a shared bucket of hot water (200rup) prior to heading back out for some exploration of the river side. Nearly implant myself in the paving outside the main door thanks to some black ice. Head down to the river past a couple of sheds built with rocks into the side of massize river boulders. Cross the river on a rough log bridge following a team of yaks who without any apparent supervision slowly mount the bridge stairs and then quite methodically cross the bridge.
Start to climb slowly towards Phortse through golden paper barked trees draped with fine lite green tendrils of moss. Have company of a small cow until decide to instead return to riverside to investigate a section where the fast flowing river disappears under snow prior to slipping down through the canyon. In our attempts to access we pass a tree tall accumulation of ice from no apparent source, before crossing and post a little bush bashing reach the canyon wall.
In the tight scrubby bush squeezed between large river boulders we descend before the mouth of an empty cave. A little further along we heard something move off without our being able to see with a slight whistling sound. Visions of yeti filling thoughts. Gokyo valley is quite known for Yeti myth. ( have since read Reinhold Messner's My quest for the Yeti, in which he details his search post an encounter. Messner is one of the most renown mountain climbers in the world, but the book is not fantastic)
Back to the Lodge for early dinner. Bed early as furnace in the dining room had run out of wood. Room freezing and Soph certain that outside warmer. Thin blankets turn out to be great as must be down filled. Warm if restless night. No vivid dreams as not asleep long enough for REM sleep to set in.
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