Day 9 - Gokyo to Thame
Departed Gokyo Resort at about 8am into a perfect blue sky day. The wind had howled throughout the night and finally blown itself out by the morning to our great relief.
Down over the lakes edge past two pairs of ducks. Skirting round the side of Gokyo Ri and up along the edge of the slowly melting lake below. After map consultation we realized we had walked too high and were past the initial ascent section for the Rhenjo La Pass. We had the advantage of fresh foot tracks ahead of us to help guide us along the way, as the rock cairns were spread out and not overly visible in some sections.
The way up to the pass took a few hours with slowly changing scenery. Huge escarpments on the sides, glaciers, rock scrambling and heavier snow walking. The pond/lake areas were only just beginning to melt. The climb was a little deceptive - twice before we actually reached the pass it appeared we were nearly there...upon reaching the point to find another section of the ascent had opened up over the top.
The views were panoramic back to Everest...on a wide scale. Such luck to have a crystal clear, windless day over the Pass. Gokyo could be seen from nearly all points of the ascent. The rock formations on the mountain tops varied in shape, with sharp angles and blue ice ledges.
Prayer flags (or Windhorses, so named as the five coloured flags (signifying the elements Earth, Wood, Water, Fire and Metal) generally include a symbol noting the bearer of prayers who is said to carry the prayers on the wind around the globe to the benefit of all sentinent beings) welcomed us at the pass and after enjoying a pack of coconut cookies (which have been a favorite since arriving in India for energy food) we started on the descent which opened up into another deep valley shaped as an amphitheater with a series of frozen lakes along the valley floor. The stairs shaped from an abundance of rock were generally only half to three quarters covered in snow, so the downhill progress was reasonable. Still care not to sink deeply into the snow.
Upon reaching the amphitheater floor, to the side of the first frozen lake, there were a few very icy crossings and heavy snow. We walked steadily down the valley for a few hours without sighting anyone else and came to a ridge line providing north and south views of the Bhote Valley. Towering mountains on either side with ice drapes formed in the rock crevaces.
At this point we decided Thame would be our evening destination...we had the choice of a few small villages before Thame but decided with the weather being so kind and feeling good we could press on into the afternoon. It was 2pm and the trekking bible predicted three hours from this point to Thame. The snow was starting to lessen and the dirt and rock path ahead made for faster progress.
We passed through the villages of Lungdhen, Marulung and Taranga which were all quiet. A few yaks, naks (female yaks and therefore should be Nak milk and cheese) with bells grazing on the mountain sides, locals carrying grass bundles and a few porters with food stocks..along with friendly smiling Sherpa women going about their everyday chores. The valley through to Thame was densely scattered with rocks, hence the rock houses and rock fences for the livestock - yaks, naks and sheep. The bridge crossings showed off the clean mountain water with snow melts creating many side streams flowing down from the mountain sides.
Beautiful light resting in the distant mountains as we walked into Thame Og. The village was quiet and after asking in regards to a lodge settled in at about 4pm. Dal Bhaat will go down well after today's walk.
Spoke with a local teacher who had worked in Thame Og for eight years and took lodging in the house/lodge where we stayed for the night. He also gave the lodge owners son tutoring.
After discussing a range of things we spoke about whether it was difficult in Khumbu to select a student by their name as Sherpas are named after the day of the week they are born. ie. seven first names exist..each day of the week. For example, Pemba Sherpa is born on Saturday, Dorje Sherpa is born on Monday. He mentioned that in primary only a couple of such situations in a class and so 1 or 2 , or A and B was used. However in high school first and middle names were used especially for examinations. Sherpas middle names usually have a religious or auspicious symbolism.
Stuped grandmother wearing the crossover Sherpa style tunic with bandana wrapped hair climbed up on the bench in front of home temple and changed the water bowls (Sangshu or ornamental water used to pour water into offering bowls). This is a twice daily ritual. Tried to use the little Nepali we have, however she only spoke Sherpa not Nepali.
Departed Gokyo Resort at about 8am into a perfect blue sky day. The wind had howled throughout the night and finally blown itself out by the morning to our great relief.
Down over the lakes edge past two pairs of ducks. Skirting round the side of Gokyo Ri and up along the edge of the slowly melting lake below. After map consultation we realized we had walked too high and were past the initial ascent section for the Rhenjo La Pass. We had the advantage of fresh foot tracks ahead of us to help guide us along the way, as the rock cairns were spread out and not overly visible in some sections.
The way up to the pass took a few hours with slowly changing scenery. Huge escarpments on the sides, glaciers, rock scrambling and heavier snow walking. The pond/lake areas were only just beginning to melt. The climb was a little deceptive - twice before we actually reached the pass it appeared we were nearly there...upon reaching the point to find another section of the ascent had opened up over the top.
The views were panoramic back to Everest...on a wide scale. Such luck to have a crystal clear, windless day over the Pass. Gokyo could be seen from nearly all points of the ascent. The rock formations on the mountain tops varied in shape, with sharp angles and blue ice ledges.
Prayer flags (or Windhorses, so named as the five coloured flags (signifying the elements Earth, Wood, Water, Fire and Metal) generally include a symbol noting the bearer of prayers who is said to carry the prayers on the wind around the globe to the benefit of all sentinent beings) welcomed us at the pass and after enjoying a pack of coconut cookies (which have been a favorite since arriving in India for energy food) we started on the descent which opened up into another deep valley shaped as an amphitheater with a series of frozen lakes along the valley floor. The stairs shaped from an abundance of rock were generally only half to three quarters covered in snow, so the downhill progress was reasonable. Still care not to sink deeply into the snow.
Upon reaching the amphitheater floor, to the side of the first frozen lake, there were a few very icy crossings and heavy snow. We walked steadily down the valley for a few hours without sighting anyone else and came to a ridge line providing north and south views of the Bhote Valley. Towering mountains on either side with ice drapes formed in the rock crevaces.
At this point we decided Thame would be our evening destination...we had the choice of a few small villages before Thame but decided with the weather being so kind and feeling good we could press on into the afternoon. It was 2pm and the trekking bible predicted three hours from this point to Thame. The snow was starting to lessen and the dirt and rock path ahead made for faster progress.
We passed through the villages of Lungdhen, Marulung and Taranga which were all quiet. A few yaks, naks (female yaks and therefore should be Nak milk and cheese) with bells grazing on the mountain sides, locals carrying grass bundles and a few porters with food stocks..along with friendly smiling Sherpa women going about their everyday chores. The valley through to Thame was densely scattered with rocks, hence the rock houses and rock fences for the livestock - yaks, naks and sheep. The bridge crossings showed off the clean mountain water with snow melts creating many side streams flowing down from the mountain sides.
Beautiful light resting in the distant mountains as we walked into Thame Og. The village was quiet and after asking in regards to a lodge settled in at about 4pm. Dal Bhaat will go down well after today's walk.
Spoke with a local teacher who had worked in Thame Og for eight years and took lodging in the house/lodge where we stayed for the night. He also gave the lodge owners son tutoring.
After discussing a range of things we spoke about whether it was difficult in Khumbu to select a student by their name as Sherpas are named after the day of the week they are born. ie. seven first names exist..each day of the week. For example, Pemba Sherpa is born on Saturday, Dorje Sherpa is born on Monday. He mentioned that in primary only a couple of such situations in a class and so 1 or 2 , or A and B was used. However in high school first and middle names were used especially for examinations. Sherpas middle names usually have a religious or auspicious symbolism.
Stuped grandmother wearing the crossover Sherpa style tunic with bandana wrapped hair climbed up on the bench in front of home temple and changed the water bowls (Sangshu or ornamental water used to pour water into offering bowls). This is a twice daily ritual. Tried to use the little Nepali we have, however she only spoke Sherpa not Nepali.
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