From the Hotel to the Chinese embassy is not far. About fifteen minutes walk, so we arrived earlier than the advertised Visa opening time being 9.30 to 11.30am. After going for a short walk we arrive back to find a little crowd outside the previously quiet security walls. The Chinese embassy being no less friendly than the US embassy in town, in fact if anything a little less extrovertedly armored. I still find the size, location and styling of the US embassy (straight across from the old royal palace) a little confronting, more a fort than an embassy or recreation centre.
At 9.30am the security staff roll back the heavy metal barrier and we stream through the metal detectors and into the waiting room. Once inside, the small crowd take chairs, each apparently as unsure of the process as we stare forward toward the four assistance counters behind security glass. At 9.40am a few staff pop in and out, at 9.50am it is realised that the power to the numbering system is unplugged and at 10.15am a smart young suited Chinese man takes up position behind the Visa application and Information desk. It is not long before the numbering system appears to be abandoned and we reverted to an Indian lineup, thanks to a dreadlocked westerner who starts a rush. Our V007 appears to no longer be of consequence so we join the cue also. When we finally make the counter he clarifies that there appears to be no issue with cycling as a mode of travel, but rather to obtain a single individual Visa for entry in Tibet is the difficulty. Such a Visa could take up to a month to organise but is not refused outright.
To the Nepal Tourism Board where we seek to obtain a FIT card (Free independent trekker) card for the Sagarmatha. First the National park entry 1000 rup pp, which is consistent with what we have read. The FIT however no longer is free. Now 20USD pp.
Onto the immigration and visa office for a further extension. Finally locate it in a narrow alleyway from the corner of the Arniko Rajmarg. Touts sitting outside. Process smooth, fast and easy.
Onto the Everest hotel, located further along the Arniko. Talked about in the many early climbing accounts, interested in just what sort of hotel it is. The hotel is quite smart, so much so that we both feel a little underdressed. Originally intending to have a look around the seventh floor restaurant we instead settle for lunch in the downstairs cafe. Service is white collar which is a shock after such a long time of very casual dining. Friendly but intense. We decline the 1000rup lunch buffet. The food great we leave struggling to gain sense of connection with this place and climbers. It is just so different, so cushy. Nice to see in someways though so removed from out on the street.
Walk across to Patan (Lalitpur), taking a small pedestrian bridge across the feral Bagmati river and past the Shankhamuk ghat complex which lines the rivers bank. No cremations going on. The path leads up from the otherwise lightly developed river side into the once separate city state. Poke around the Northern ashoka stupa one of four marking the historical city edge, nice feeling as temples generally situated behind entrance walls or in residential courtyards bringing a sense of calm. Each statue seeping age and past encounters, but here part of everyday life.
Across the road we met a grandfatherly man who following showing us through the gompa complex identified himself to be of the line originating from near Lumbini, recommending that we be Buddhist. He also invites us to learn and or return to celebrate Rato Machhendranath (Hindi rain god but also Buddhist form of Avalokitesvara) festival in April (or per the Nepali calendar Baisakh). On this day a huge chariot assembled from parts spread throughout Patan (the wheel apparently being close by) is lead throughout the city bearing the statue of the god. The recognition is in request for generous rains come the monsoon. Chandigarth was to have a similar procession on the Saturday after we left but the chariot there was to take a statue of Krishna throughout the city.
Through the suburb of Kumbeshwar first having a look into the Bhimsem styled Kumbeshwar temple where a range of local people are flowing in and out on their daily rituals. Outside a sunken water conduit, with running aquifers being used to fill buckets. I just hope it is not from the river. Inside have a running battle with a babu (small boy) who has eyed the sprite bottle in my backpack, no being obviously a difficult concept.
Up the road further having passed many Newari styled lanes we enter the Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, known as the Golden temple. (50rup pp entry) Another small doorway through which you enter a hidden complex of richly decorated courtyard, stupa and temple complex. On entry in the gateways roof is a madala (known as the Kalachakra) and in the two side recesses lotus symbolism carved again into the rock. Once divesting shoes move through into the inner courtyard where the main temple is currently undergoing restoration. A monk sitting on the verandah of the small stupa and facing the temple intones away seemingly oblivious to the small groups of visitors circulating through.
Two large tortoises located beneath the feet of two elephant carvings are said to be temple guardians. I am still surprised with this, given what I would believe to be the apparent lack of local live examples to base a carving on and secondly their location under the elephants. Sherpas and Tibetans also have a craving for coral and you see conch shells used in the symbolism of both Hinduism and Buddhism. I guess stories and examples of such travelled along the ancient paths and roads, there rarity making them treasured and desirable. Monkeys sit in each of the courtyards four corners holding Jackfruit.
Invited upstairs by a thin wheezing monk who shows us around the 12th century monastery, unfortunately he replicates a Sadhus habit of offering us a goodluck charm in return for a donation to him, donation boxes for the monastery otherwise on the wall. The thankas and wall art upstairs though in the prayer room are worth the encounter. Back down stairs a bell in the main temple is being rung vigorously by a young boy in light brown robes, we read later that the main priest of the temple is under the age of 12 and serves 30 days prior to handing over the reins to someone else. I am surprised that they have enough suitable candidates.
It is also interesting as in the Kathmandu Durbar square there resides a young girl titled the Kumari Devi, a living goddess who is between the age of 4 and puberty. She is chosen based on strict protocol and following among other things a reincarnation style test. Following her first serious blood letting whether accident or puberty a replacement needs to be located. Various reasons / stories abound but it is interesting that youth is seemingly celebrated in this way.
Back out into the street and just below the entrance into the Durbar square proper we are hit with a 200rup pp entry fee. Again fair enough as long as the money is invested in the right way. The Patan Durbar Square constructed during the Malla period looks in better shape then the one in Kathmandu and appears more carefree having more space to spread out. Similarly however the square appears an important part of everyday life with twenty something and teenagers either hanging around talking on the steps leading to the various temples or having one on one (non canoodling) time with an interested party. Older man sitting on side benches watching the world go by, dressed smartly and with their topi (traditional Nepalese cap) on their heads. Ladies either heading somewhere or collecting water from the sunken (almost as if made to be a deep brick lined pool) water conduit, the one here known as the Manga Hiti.
To one side of the square the Royal palace of Patan, predating Kathmandu as built in the 14th century. During the period of national unity achieved via the conquest of Prithvi Narayan Shah the palace was apparently damaged, but this does not appear noticeable. The huge almost chinese styled lions at the entrance gate are great.
Across from the palace is the Bhimsen temple again devoted to the god of trade and commerce, heading up the stairs into the second floor dark temple room brings you face to red face with the angry gods effigy.
The most interesting looking temples of which there are two are Krishna Temples both constructed in the Shikhara style but white instead of exposed stone. The one near the palace has a man bird Garuda sitting on a pedestal out front looking in. The Garuda is sometimes the mount of the Hindi god Vishnu.
By this stage with serious coffee deficiency we relocated to the Layeku Kitchen which is in a newarri building and the seating is on the second floor verandah. Cool because it juts out from the building and then the walls on an angle similar to the back of the brig on an old frigate. Windows with dark latticed wood shutters pulled back and giving a view back down the square. The veg momos well presented, though coffee only nescafe. When desperate..
Walk back through the side streets following a boy obviously heading off to taikwondo. Cross the Bagmati further to the west via a pedestrian bridge accessed off the Green park. The park nice for having been set aside but definitely not a manicured space.Follow the Dhobi Khola nearly as feral as the Bagmati, back up to the Arniko. Peak hour traffic and smog, of which today we have had quite a bit. Some people passing with small face masks. You can tell when something is recurring when such a product comes out in various fashions.
Choose to walk back along Prithwi Path, pass the army encampment which has spread over onto an Olympic sized running track. The gun placements appear a little out of place on the track field.
Across the overpass but decide to take a little retail therapy inside the Civil Mall, i think Kathmandu's largest. Escalators clean and polished as is the foyer. First two escalators working which is suprising as we are currently in a time range of load shedding. Pass plenty of unbranded but smoothly presented General Pant style micro stores. We continue to the top floor where a QFX cinema at the top and amusement centre reside. A quick review of the two movies on offer before choosing to flake out in a sofa chair at Himalayan Beans for caramel frappe and macchiatos. Heaven. It is a strange feeling in some ways to be in a place like this here, but also nice as when we as travelers enter such a country with certain ideas of what it should be like we generally discuss the differences, (whether born out of perception or not) some bad/some good and skipping the known or same.
Walk straight back up along Kanti Path to Funky Buddha where there is a garden beats party out the back. Settle in. Load shedding finished at 8pm so the power to the massive speaker system is not effected.
At 9.30am the security staff roll back the heavy metal barrier and we stream through the metal detectors and into the waiting room. Once inside, the small crowd take chairs, each apparently as unsure of the process as we stare forward toward the four assistance counters behind security glass. At 9.40am a few staff pop in and out, at 9.50am it is realised that the power to the numbering system is unplugged and at 10.15am a smart young suited Chinese man takes up position behind the Visa application and Information desk. It is not long before the numbering system appears to be abandoned and we reverted to an Indian lineup, thanks to a dreadlocked westerner who starts a rush. Our V007 appears to no longer be of consequence so we join the cue also. When we finally make the counter he clarifies that there appears to be no issue with cycling as a mode of travel, but rather to obtain a single individual Visa for entry in Tibet is the difficulty. Such a Visa could take up to a month to organise but is not refused outright.
To the Nepal Tourism Board where we seek to obtain a FIT card (Free independent trekker) card for the Sagarmatha. First the National park entry 1000 rup pp, which is consistent with what we have read. The FIT however no longer is free. Now 20USD pp.
Onto the immigration and visa office for a further extension. Finally locate it in a narrow alleyway from the corner of the Arniko Rajmarg. Touts sitting outside. Process smooth, fast and easy.
Onto the Everest hotel, located further along the Arniko. Talked about in the many early climbing accounts, interested in just what sort of hotel it is. The hotel is quite smart, so much so that we both feel a little underdressed. Originally intending to have a look around the seventh floor restaurant we instead settle for lunch in the downstairs cafe. Service is white collar which is a shock after such a long time of very casual dining. Friendly but intense. We decline the 1000rup lunch buffet. The food great we leave struggling to gain sense of connection with this place and climbers. It is just so different, so cushy. Nice to see in someways though so removed from out on the street.
Walk across to Patan (Lalitpur), taking a small pedestrian bridge across the feral Bagmati river and past the Shankhamuk ghat complex which lines the rivers bank. No cremations going on. The path leads up from the otherwise lightly developed river side into the once separate city state. Poke around the Northern ashoka stupa one of four marking the historical city edge, nice feeling as temples generally situated behind entrance walls or in residential courtyards bringing a sense of calm. Each statue seeping age and past encounters, but here part of everyday life.
Across the road we met a grandfatherly man who following showing us through the gompa complex identified himself to be of the line originating from near Lumbini, recommending that we be Buddhist. He also invites us to learn and or return to celebrate Rato Machhendranath (Hindi rain god but also Buddhist form of Avalokitesvara) festival in April (or per the Nepali calendar Baisakh). On this day a huge chariot assembled from parts spread throughout Patan (the wheel apparently being close by) is lead throughout the city bearing the statue of the god. The recognition is in request for generous rains come the monsoon. Chandigarth was to have a similar procession on the Saturday after we left but the chariot there was to take a statue of Krishna throughout the city.
Through the suburb of Kumbeshwar first having a look into the Bhimsem styled Kumbeshwar temple where a range of local people are flowing in and out on their daily rituals. Outside a sunken water conduit, with running aquifers being used to fill buckets. I just hope it is not from the river. Inside have a running battle with a babu (small boy) who has eyed the sprite bottle in my backpack, no being obviously a difficult concept.
Up the road further having passed many Newari styled lanes we enter the Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, known as the Golden temple. (50rup pp entry) Another small doorway through which you enter a hidden complex of richly decorated courtyard, stupa and temple complex. On entry in the gateways roof is a madala (known as the Kalachakra) and in the two side recesses lotus symbolism carved again into the rock. Once divesting shoes move through into the inner courtyard where the main temple is currently undergoing restoration. A monk sitting on the verandah of the small stupa and facing the temple intones away seemingly oblivious to the small groups of visitors circulating through.
Two large tortoises located beneath the feet of two elephant carvings are said to be temple guardians. I am still surprised with this, given what I would believe to be the apparent lack of local live examples to base a carving on and secondly their location under the elephants. Sherpas and Tibetans also have a craving for coral and you see conch shells used in the symbolism of both Hinduism and Buddhism. I guess stories and examples of such travelled along the ancient paths and roads, there rarity making them treasured and desirable. Monkeys sit in each of the courtyards four corners holding Jackfruit.
Invited upstairs by a thin wheezing monk who shows us around the 12th century monastery, unfortunately he replicates a Sadhus habit of offering us a goodluck charm in return for a donation to him, donation boxes for the monastery otherwise on the wall. The thankas and wall art upstairs though in the prayer room are worth the encounter. Back down stairs a bell in the main temple is being rung vigorously by a young boy in light brown robes, we read later that the main priest of the temple is under the age of 12 and serves 30 days prior to handing over the reins to someone else. I am surprised that they have enough suitable candidates.
It is also interesting as in the Kathmandu Durbar square there resides a young girl titled the Kumari Devi, a living goddess who is between the age of 4 and puberty. She is chosen based on strict protocol and following among other things a reincarnation style test. Following her first serious blood letting whether accident or puberty a replacement needs to be located. Various reasons / stories abound but it is interesting that youth is seemingly celebrated in this way.
Back out into the street and just below the entrance into the Durbar square proper we are hit with a 200rup pp entry fee. Again fair enough as long as the money is invested in the right way. The Patan Durbar Square constructed during the Malla period looks in better shape then the one in Kathmandu and appears more carefree having more space to spread out. Similarly however the square appears an important part of everyday life with twenty something and teenagers either hanging around talking on the steps leading to the various temples or having one on one (non canoodling) time with an interested party. Older man sitting on side benches watching the world go by, dressed smartly and with their topi (traditional Nepalese cap) on their heads. Ladies either heading somewhere or collecting water from the sunken (almost as if made to be a deep brick lined pool) water conduit, the one here known as the Manga Hiti.
To one side of the square the Royal palace of Patan, predating Kathmandu as built in the 14th century. During the period of national unity achieved via the conquest of Prithvi Narayan Shah the palace was apparently damaged, but this does not appear noticeable. The huge almost chinese styled lions at the entrance gate are great.
Across from the palace is the Bhimsen temple again devoted to the god of trade and commerce, heading up the stairs into the second floor dark temple room brings you face to red face with the angry gods effigy.
The most interesting looking temples of which there are two are Krishna Temples both constructed in the Shikhara style but white instead of exposed stone. The one near the palace has a man bird Garuda sitting on a pedestal out front looking in. The Garuda is sometimes the mount of the Hindi god Vishnu.
By this stage with serious coffee deficiency we relocated to the Layeku Kitchen which is in a newarri building and the seating is on the second floor verandah. Cool because it juts out from the building and then the walls on an angle similar to the back of the brig on an old frigate. Windows with dark latticed wood shutters pulled back and giving a view back down the square. The veg momos well presented, though coffee only nescafe. When desperate..
Walk back through the side streets following a boy obviously heading off to taikwondo. Cross the Bagmati further to the west via a pedestrian bridge accessed off the Green park. The park nice for having been set aside but definitely not a manicured space.Follow the Dhobi Khola nearly as feral as the Bagmati, back up to the Arniko. Peak hour traffic and smog, of which today we have had quite a bit. Some people passing with small face masks. You can tell when something is recurring when such a product comes out in various fashions.
Choose to walk back along Prithwi Path, pass the army encampment which has spread over onto an Olympic sized running track. The gun placements appear a little out of place on the track field.
Across the overpass but decide to take a little retail therapy inside the Civil Mall, i think Kathmandu's largest. Escalators clean and polished as is the foyer. First two escalators working which is suprising as we are currently in a time range of load shedding. Pass plenty of unbranded but smoothly presented General Pant style micro stores. We continue to the top floor where a QFX cinema at the top and amusement centre reside. A quick review of the two movies on offer before choosing to flake out in a sofa chair at Himalayan Beans for caramel frappe and macchiatos. Heaven. It is a strange feeling in some ways to be in a place like this here, but also nice as when we as travelers enter such a country with certain ideas of what it should be like we generally discuss the differences, (whether born out of perception or not) some bad/some good and skipping the known or same.
Walk straight back up along Kanti Path to Funky Buddha where there is a garden beats party out the back. Settle in. Load shedding finished at 8pm so the power to the massive speaker system is not effected.
No comments:
Post a Comment