Slight sleep in on hard beds at the Leknath Hotel, as we are not overly concerned with the cycle before us. The expectation is a maximum of 40kms of flat terrain to Lumbini, birthplace of Buddha (Prince Siddhartha Gautama). I have my first squatty experience and without going into salubrious detail, find the experience more positive then expected. Can't say that I will be ripping out the plumbing when I get home. I am still a committed fan of paper though, sorry. I can say that i have reformed slightly and reduced the quantity however.
Whilst talking plumbing I might as well explain the options that we have seen so far. A squatty in most well kept places consists of a ceramic rectangle, flat on the tiled floor, with soap style grip foot markings on either side of a long rectangular drop at the back of which is the drain. Most we have seen have a water cistern and flush, same as a european toilet with the flush coming out both sides along the length of the drop. The squatty bathrooms are also equipped with a single water tap, large bucket and small almost plain plastic measuring jug. Big bucket for backup flush and small bucket, should there be no paper. Left hand please. It makes me wonder whether naturally left handed people in Asia are outcasts, or learn very quickly to be ambidextrous.
European toilets, as advertised, are generally outfitted with a bidet style system at the back of the seat operated by a small tap generally on the side wall, within easy reach. Though functional, in cold climates or mountain regions this makes for a tougher customer. Generally these also come with big and small buckets, I guess just in case.
The classics though are the combo toilets. Initially I thought they might just be catering for the extremely broad, but as most of those, ashamed to say currently reside in the west, reappraised. These landing strip styled toilets, have western bowl, but side wings also part of the ceramic again with foot grips molded in. Seat is then optional depending upon preference. I just can't get over the feeling that you would feel like an eagle perched on top of the toilet that way. I would also be concerned, should obesity ever coincide as the wings are solid but not impervious and it would be a messy end. Anyway...
Following the ritual packup we move down to the now deserted restaurant, only the glass bottles being collected reflecting any size of the turnover in humanity from the night before. The girls in the middle generation have gone out and picked up some breakfast treats for us to try. Bajea (?) are these deep fried pastry squiggles filled with liquid sugar syrup. However these are then placed inside two palm sized bhatura type wheat pancakes. All up it makes for a very sweet burger. Top this off with sugared chai. Soph is in love. I visualise however a dentist smiling behind their face mask as they start up the drill.
We say our goodbyes, then ride through town and elect to turn off the Mahendra Highway just after town on a road that should cut out a loop back to Lumbini from Butwal. Further it should cut us straight down to Tilaurakot another historical site on the way. As we turn at the junction I recall the prior evening when whilst scoping town we had sat at this junction and met a naturalised American Nepali currently residing in Chicago but back on winter vacation. When discussing the road he had said that it was fine, but not to enter then ie dusk, as it would be dangerous at night, "it's jungle in there." We did not confirm what specifically the danger was as we were not planning on continuing then anyway. Now however it was at the back of the mind.
After one hundred meters or so in the road changes from tar to pebbly trail and yes quite wooded but with large leaved trees that allowed dappled light through. Unfortunately the down side was we spent the next forty minutes or so eyes tight to the road choosing non discernible routes through the pebbles in an attempt to achieve smooth rides or at least minimise jarring to our alternate luggage systems.
When the trees receded they were replaced by thatched huts and fields, with villages surprise but not shocked to see two foreigners pass through. Plenty of giggles though. Down further the previous passing dump trucks made sense with road work being undertaken creating a raised road which lead to a river crossing through the fields. As construction was in it's early stages we were directed to a homemade log construct which had been smoothed over by mud on cloth. At the bridge however we met an overly enterprising young fellow, with interesting dental work who through hand signals identified we should contribute a fee, to be able to access the facility. Thankfully between our facial expressions and our prior motorcycle guides verbal abuse, the young guy moved to the side with a toothy vacant smile.
Once across the river and back on tar road on the far bank we realized we were right in Tilaurakot and straight outside the Kapilavastu museum where many of the historical finds from the surrounding archeological digs had been relocated. Pieces housed included early terra-cotta sculptures and wares, jewelry, coins etc from the Sunga (1-2nd century), Kushan and Mauryan (3rd century) periods.
From the museum we moved along a concrete path to the remains of the ancient site of the Sakya kingdom (Kapilavastu) from which the then Prince Siddhartha following his first 29 years is said to have left on the path to enlightenment. I wandered through the remains of the palace widespread and now mainly brick footings. The remains speak of history and of the earth moving on, as walls are rippled and the few small structures remaining have been grown on top of. One a semi arched brick building had a fig like tree growing on it's roof with roots entwined through the brickwork and probably the only reason it is still standing. During my wander I had a policeman accompany me, uncertain why I didn't venture too broadly but he was smiley and seemed to be out for the foreign company only.
From Tilaurakot we cycled to Taulihawa a district capital which did not give off good vibes. Busy and dirty we moved through and turned east as quickly as we could. We stopped only once on the final stretch to Lumbini to grab some top up samosas to keep us going the final 15km or so along the road. This place was also filthy and the gutter outside the dhaba was nearly so full of garbage that we could cross the otherwise deep trench with the bikes. The guys in the store however were nice enough and we confirmed distances prior to leaving. The surrounds were agricultural but unlike the Tharu areas of the western Terai dirty and uncared for, people too with poverty more self apparent. More small mosques were also evident.
Finally we reached the edge of the fenced enclosure of the Lumbini Development Trust land that confirmed we only had a couple of km to ride. Definitely not as exciting as yesterday and feeling dusty from the road we just wanted to find a bed and relax a little. Soph on the ride through one town had nearly been taken out by a school girl swerving wildly across the road whilst doubling. All smiles and unaware of just how much bike carnage she could have caused. We has also met with an increased amount of honking Indian style traffic, which for the past week we had lived without to our great satisfaction. The return on thinner roads did not add to our demeanor. It was therefore with great relief that we eventually pulled up outside the Lumbini Village Lodge and accepted a room facing in towards a tree lined courtyard off the main street.
After confirming Load setting effecting the power until 7pm and no hot water yet, we cold cleaned and headed back out onto the streets bike less. An initial review of town identified a few decent Nepali places to try out, very well stocked general store and trinket setups. We wander along the road and it is not hard to notice that Soph has attracted a crowd of fans, unfortunately they are of the buzzy variety. I have only one above me. One trinket store had statues of the baby Buddha, who we both agreed had a surprisingly canny resemblance to a classic ABC japenese cartoon character called Astro Boy.
Light dinner at the Three foxes, before wifi usage at the lodge post 7pm, no hot water so called an early night with dreams of a rest day tomorrow and hopefully bucket hot water in the morning.