Another morning another porridge. Have identified per the Hotel's menu that Porridge in Hindi is Daliya, has made Soph's day, sweet wheat porridge and filling. Coffee but nescafe come nestle. I dream of real espresso coffee every other day.
Out of the hotel and down Mall back towards Kosi. Take a set of stairs off to the left which leads into the back alleyways and stairs leading toward Lower mall rd. Stairs varying from concrete to stone, many at a height which is beyond a comfortable step for me so no idea how those more senior cope on the hillside. Instead of follow the yellow brick rd, it is follow the pipes, generally indicating a major path over one that pops you out through someone's washing and to their back door before you realise. The cow on the back porch of an apartment is a nice touch, home delivered milk.
Once down on the Lower Mall rd we follow the sun and head in the direction of Nainital. Whole sections of concrete wall has slid down the hill on the far side joining the garbage below. Wind whipping as buses swiftly pass us we play, spot the roof cactus. Still haven't found out the reason but there is a definite trend we are witnessing here. Our first full size soccer playing field up to our left, then a university campus down to our right. Up on the ridge in the distance we spot a Devi temple. When we work our way along a path towards it we spot grass women walking in lines up from the valley below with small sickles tucked into their bright colored saris and grass covering their heads, occasionally down to their torsos.
Vultures circling on thermals high rise from the valley below up above on an invisible column wing spans stretched and gliding. We climb the stairs to the temple leaving our shoes at the entrance gate, before ringing the bell. A crew of painters are touching up the temple in warm bright orange and red. Beyond the back wall the himalaya rise as a backdrop. Temples definitely score some of the best views, any postcard would be happy with. The team smiling and curious welcome us to sit then proudly to inspect their latest addition for the site, a cast of Shiva with tripod that they are to paint tomorrow. They are working their way around the nine Devi temples that lie around Almora touching and patching up as they go.
Depart following the afternoon sunlight and making for the stairs which climb back up towards Mall Rd and Almora. On the road that swings to their base, pass a wall that appears to have brown measles, in fact on closer inspection so has the tree up above in the backyard and the house. The measles, each the size of a bread plate, are cow pats that have been flattened and pressed to the surfaces to dry, fuel sources for winter.
Up a couple of flights of stairs again following the pipes we reach an open courtyard / amphitheater on one side of which lined by general store and dhaba and the other broad stairs. On the sunny high side behind the stairs groups of men are playing cards with onlookers soaking in the warmth, smiling and socialising.
Continuing up another set of stairs that swing to the side of the development following the ridge we deviate down and around a path crew where a slip has carried part of the concrete path down towards the road below. Carrying rocks in slings on their bent backs with the canvas handles around their foreheads, a mixture of the old and young, both slumping back against ledges on reaching their planned drop off spot to release the tension from the sling. Still smiling and perspiring less then I could or would if roles reversed.
We continue to climb stairs reaching Bright end a suburb on the eastern fringe of Almora. There is an old colonial building with turret on the edge of the hill. The path which leads to it is stenciled and the sign on the gate identifies a Ramakrishna Ashram. Stairs lead down to the building and past orange robes hanging in the afternoon sun. Signs lead the way to the temple, which has separate male, female and monk sections. We sit, in our respective sections and listen with two monks. The birds, breeze and distant cars stand out in the definable silence of the room. On the way out we drop by the office and speak with the aging swami.
On the way back to town we pass old colonial buildings crumbling with age with concrete replacements around. One building the Oriental bank insurance stands out as being maintained and is looking great for the effort.
Swing up through the bazaar to Malla Mahal cafe for late afternoon lunch, Veg Hakka noodle, Veg momos and Veg burger then head back along the bazaar only stopping to get some mandarins and beer nuts before heading to the hotel.