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| India, Nanital. January 2011 |
Sleep though soft is interrupted by dogs barking on the street below and the sounds of roller doors clanging and mopeds passing and people chattering all occurring at varying hours making sleep restless and for Soph frustratingly inconsistent.
Hot showers appreciated though before heading out into Nainital.
Choosing to explore town we work our way first along the promenade toward Tallital at the other end of the lake from Mallital where the hotel is located. Along the street which consists of declining colonial aged buildings, large hotels, clothing brand stores,restaurants and nik nak gifty stores. One of the specialties of Nainital being candles but the sight of a peeled banana looking candle is not that appealing, sorry. Nor the swastika made out of pine cones. I realize the deep religious symbolism but Hitler unfortunately has ruined it for me. I wonder if he had used the yellow circled smiley face whether it would be the same.
Find a Coffee Day chain store and make up for caffeine absence. A choc fudge slice also makes it's way to our table. Refuelled the trek to Tallital is continued and we explore for a while before finding a veg restaurant that did a doughy Chana Bhatura. From the restaurant we hike up the hill beyond the numerous hotels to the Nainital zoo. The hike is quite a climb with many choosing to taxi up to within the last 50mtrs from the gate where vehicles cannot enter. Families are queuing up outside with boisterous excited children milling around.
The Zoo is a pleasant surprise from our worst fears, laid out on the hill side it stretches up with a concrete path winding from enclosure to enclosure. It leads first past varied pheasants before circling up before the first larger enclosure being the snow leopard. The first thing Soph notices is that the door to the enclosure is open, whilst I am trying to locate the mysterious leopard. The guys smashing up the concrete roof of the night enclosure should have been a dead giveaway. Next we move to the Siberian tiger who is luxuriantly stretching in the midday sun. Massize paws and beautiful fur are impressive as patiently blocking out the sound of children and adults trying to stir a response out of it.
Beyond the tiger were black bears again stretched out enjoying the sun and positioned far enough back in their enclosures to avoid most of the attention, not so the leopard who paced repetitiously along the secured fence line. The beautiful and proud eagles in cages with views back over the lake, surrounding hills and blue sky, whilst the cage offered seemingly no opportunity to spread wings nor thermal rise. Zoos are amazing places where the certainty of seeing animals is exciting until reflection clarifies that to be seen for many of these animals results in a loss of natural habitat and freedom. Still this zoo and many others supports breeding programs that assist the maintenance of otherwise rare and endangered species threatened by our gradual redesignation of their habitat for our purposes.
Back down to the lake side we search out the cable car station to catch a ride up to Snow view at 2270mtr above Nainital at 1938mtr. The cable car facility I believe was a Indian / Austrian partnership and is a smooth operation. Starting at 10.30 in the morning and closing at 4pm, during summer when Nainital fills I can understand that the cable car would be in constant demand, to the extent that the service stipulates when your return journey from the hillside will be, which is an hour later. There are steep road paths down, but you are only able to buy a return ticket at 150rup per adult.
At the top it is a bit of a tourism circus with bar, horses, photo touts, fast food, snacks and amusement rides. Beyond the touristy elements we chose to follow a path that leads around a small knoll and follows the ridge side around through the back of a small village before dropping down on a concrete path to a saddle before climbing back up towards a Boys Public school that sits on a high point before another forested saddle and a climb up to what appears to be a radio tower facility. The school is large and buildings bureaucratic, but large sporting facilities and a brilliant view. To the side of the school's main gates and guardhouse we pass climbing past what we later find out is the school's residence for the finance manager with eagle views back over Nainital. On the heavily wooded slope to the side of the school we pass pockets of snow ice.
Following the road back to the saddle we pass a cricket game where the bowler is bowling up a 45 degree slope and the batter, with a choice of shots across rooves or down the road, challenging for even the best fielders. Instead of taking the cable car down we circle back along one of the concrete road with apparently numerous options all zig zagging down the slope towards the lake below. The trees, large oaks are moss covered and character etched. Earlier in the day draped prayer flags on the hillside had been visible so we choose our route in an attempt to get a closer look.
The path is steep but again we share it with older company who though not spritely are obviously adept at navigating it daily. We successfully reach the flag wooded slope that is now evidently above a Tibetan Buddhist temple complex that includes a Tibetan school. At the temple post a walk through the sun dappled prayer flags we met the resident monk who welcomes us first to view the temple and then to tea. Over tea we identify that he escaped Tibet over the Himalayas in 1994 to Nepal. After kindly giving us both some Tibetan bread (similar to a snail shaped damper) he then identifies that he is returning legitimately in February to visit his mother turning eighty for her birthday.
The walk the rest of the way down the path leads past some largish colonial estate houses with grounds. Signs on trees identify the property is private and not for sale. Funky trees again out the front with moss. We walk back through to the Tibetan market once at the promenade, which is at the North west end of the lake in Mallital near the cricket ground.
The Tibetan market is made up of a winding alley where open fronted market stores sell just about any kind and style of clothing and accessories. The store's goods press in on an already friendly path, add to the mix weaving around people moving in all directions and it is a pretty in your face shopping experience. Sometimes it feels like you are squeezing through racks in a store rather then on a defined path walking past stores. I am not sure what defines this as a Tibetan market as yes there are Tibetan looking people manning stores but also southern and punjab Indian. There is no Tibetan gift or jewelry that I can see.
The food outside the market is predominantly fast food Indian chinese. Indian as the usual suspects include momos (fried and steamed), spring rolls, chowmein, chop suey (Chinese and American) and hakka noodles. Deciding to instead sample one of the restaurants further down the promenade called Mohans. Given the flamboyant pricing for Indian dishes even on restaurant prices we decide to go "continental" and therefore pizza again. The pizza is better then yesterday but not great. The spring rolls are rolled in a bready rather then rice wrapping. We had the same experience at Macleod ganj and it should have put me off the experience of ordering spring rolls in India for good. At least now I can confirm that it wasn't the location, but the style. Hot chocolate pot is a standout and Soph is lapping it up.
Post the warm feel good factor of the chocolate we decide to explore the Bara Bazaar. It is breath steam cold out. The bazaar is full of the usual suspects small dhaba styled food places, general, fruit, dry goods and sweet stores. Saris, chemists, mobile phone resellers, biscuits, meat market etc. Still wanting to explore we wander further up the Mall Rd. Higher in Mallital beyond the more resort styled places are ornate gates leading into the park like grounds of the High court of Nainital. Young guys are floating around in packs like the dogs who are just starting to come out now that the sun has gone down.
Time to make for our room which is a remarkably warm 10 degrees. Once snuggled we listen to the sounds of the bazaar shutting up shop, with the odd stray still wandering around. Asleep at around midnight the night air turns American werewolf in London with loud growling, snorting and the sound of dog attacks. I am glad that they have slept all day, they certainly needed the energy. I thought that I could sleep through anything, I was wrong.
Hot showers appreciated though before heading out into Nainital.
Choosing to explore town we work our way first along the promenade toward Tallital at the other end of the lake from Mallital where the hotel is located. Along the street which consists of declining colonial aged buildings, large hotels, clothing brand stores,restaurants and nik nak gifty stores. One of the specialties of Nainital being candles but the sight of a peeled banana looking candle is not that appealing, sorry. Nor the swastika made out of pine cones. I realize the deep religious symbolism but Hitler unfortunately has ruined it for me. I wonder if he had used the yellow circled smiley face whether it would be the same.
Find a Coffee Day chain store and make up for caffeine absence. A choc fudge slice also makes it's way to our table. Refuelled the trek to Tallital is continued and we explore for a while before finding a veg restaurant that did a doughy Chana Bhatura. From the restaurant we hike up the hill beyond the numerous hotels to the Nainital zoo. The hike is quite a climb with many choosing to taxi up to within the last 50mtrs from the gate where vehicles cannot enter. Families are queuing up outside with boisterous excited children milling around.
The Zoo is a pleasant surprise from our worst fears, laid out on the hill side it stretches up with a concrete path winding from enclosure to enclosure. It leads first past varied pheasants before circling up before the first larger enclosure being the snow leopard. The first thing Soph notices is that the door to the enclosure is open, whilst I am trying to locate the mysterious leopard. The guys smashing up the concrete roof of the night enclosure should have been a dead giveaway. Next we move to the Siberian tiger who is luxuriantly stretching in the midday sun. Massize paws and beautiful fur are impressive as patiently blocking out the sound of children and adults trying to stir a response out of it.
Beyond the tiger were black bears again stretched out enjoying the sun and positioned far enough back in their enclosures to avoid most of the attention, not so the leopard who paced repetitiously along the secured fence line. The beautiful and proud eagles in cages with views back over the lake, surrounding hills and blue sky, whilst the cage offered seemingly no opportunity to spread wings nor thermal rise. Zoos are amazing places where the certainty of seeing animals is exciting until reflection clarifies that to be seen for many of these animals results in a loss of natural habitat and freedom. Still this zoo and many others supports breeding programs that assist the maintenance of otherwise rare and endangered species threatened by our gradual redesignation of their habitat for our purposes.
Back down to the lake side we search out the cable car station to catch a ride up to Snow view at 2270mtr above Nainital at 1938mtr. The cable car facility I believe was a Indian / Austrian partnership and is a smooth operation. Starting at 10.30 in the morning and closing at 4pm, during summer when Nainital fills I can understand that the cable car would be in constant demand, to the extent that the service stipulates when your return journey from the hillside will be, which is an hour later. There are steep road paths down, but you are only able to buy a return ticket at 150rup per adult.
At the top it is a bit of a tourism circus with bar, horses, photo touts, fast food, snacks and amusement rides. Beyond the touristy elements we chose to follow a path that leads around a small knoll and follows the ridge side around through the back of a small village before dropping down on a concrete path to a saddle before climbing back up towards a Boys Public school that sits on a high point before another forested saddle and a climb up to what appears to be a radio tower facility. The school is large and buildings bureaucratic, but large sporting facilities and a brilliant view. To the side of the school's main gates and guardhouse we pass climbing past what we later find out is the school's residence for the finance manager with eagle views back over Nainital. On the heavily wooded slope to the side of the school we pass pockets of snow ice.
Following the road back to the saddle we pass a cricket game where the bowler is bowling up a 45 degree slope and the batter, with a choice of shots across rooves or down the road, challenging for even the best fielders. Instead of taking the cable car down we circle back along one of the concrete road with apparently numerous options all zig zagging down the slope towards the lake below. The trees, large oaks are moss covered and character etched. Earlier in the day draped prayer flags on the hillside had been visible so we choose our route in an attempt to get a closer look.
The path is steep but again we share it with older company who though not spritely are obviously adept at navigating it daily. We successfully reach the flag wooded slope that is now evidently above a Tibetan Buddhist temple complex that includes a Tibetan school. At the temple post a walk through the sun dappled prayer flags we met the resident monk who welcomes us first to view the temple and then to tea. Over tea we identify that he escaped Tibet over the Himalayas in 1994 to Nepal. After kindly giving us both some Tibetan bread (similar to a snail shaped damper) he then identifies that he is returning legitimately in February to visit his mother turning eighty for her birthday.
The walk the rest of the way down the path leads past some largish colonial estate houses with grounds. Signs on trees identify the property is private and not for sale. Funky trees again out the front with moss. We walk back through to the Tibetan market once at the promenade, which is at the North west end of the lake in Mallital near the cricket ground.
The Tibetan market is made up of a winding alley where open fronted market stores sell just about any kind and style of clothing and accessories. The store's goods press in on an already friendly path, add to the mix weaving around people moving in all directions and it is a pretty in your face shopping experience. Sometimes it feels like you are squeezing through racks in a store rather then on a defined path walking past stores. I am not sure what defines this as a Tibetan market as yes there are Tibetan looking people manning stores but also southern and punjab Indian. There is no Tibetan gift or jewelry that I can see.
The food outside the market is predominantly fast food Indian chinese. Indian as the usual suspects include momos (fried and steamed), spring rolls, chowmein, chop suey (Chinese and American) and hakka noodles. Deciding to instead sample one of the restaurants further down the promenade called Mohans. Given the flamboyant pricing for Indian dishes even on restaurant prices we decide to go "continental" and therefore pizza again. The pizza is better then yesterday but not great. The spring rolls are rolled in a bready rather then rice wrapping. We had the same experience at Macleod ganj and it should have put me off the experience of ordering spring rolls in India for good. At least now I can confirm that it wasn't the location, but the style. Hot chocolate pot is a standout and Soph is lapping it up.
Post the warm feel good factor of the chocolate we decide to explore the Bara Bazaar. It is breath steam cold out. The bazaar is full of the usual suspects small dhaba styled food places, general, fruit, dry goods and sweet stores. Saris, chemists, mobile phone resellers, biscuits, meat market etc. Still wanting to explore we wander further up the Mall Rd. Higher in Mallital beyond the more resort styled places are ornate gates leading into the park like grounds of the High court of Nainital. Young guys are floating around in packs like the dogs who are just starting to come out now that the sun has gone down.
Time to make for our room which is a remarkably warm 10 degrees. Once snuggled we listen to the sounds of the bazaar shutting up shop, with the odd stray still wandering around. Asleep at around midnight the night air turns American werewolf in London with loud growling, snorting and the sound of dog attacks. I am glad that they have slept all day, they certainly needed the energy. I thought that I could sleep through anything, I was wrong.