Wake to quiet sounds of the river, until the sounds of the Krishna temple cranked up with a tape playing at about 6am, still it is kind of cool lying in bed with the cymbals and "hare hare" happening in the background. Would have an extra impact if it was live.
Bathroom is the sink in the dhaba and the toilet a cement dark squatty in the basement also used by the restaurant traffic. Nice.... Try not to touch much and first time sanitiser has come out though we have been in some pretty dodgy places before. I know this reduces our hard core traveler element but certain places have definite cringe factor, and this place has the hairs on my neck prickly as a porcupine. Back in the room lift the pillow from last night and there is a spider hiding underneath it. Funny though, for all of that, the river and the afternoon sun makes up a lot.
Soph gives the go, so we load up and leave a small posse of onlookers as begin the climb out of town and up the hill. Pass people trees and terracing as the river gradually falls below. Soph moving confidently in the morning sun which is great and she takes the lead, setting the pace heading up the hill. Still hazy setting over the valley which diminishes medium to long visibility.
At Galyang we consider our options, GETUP tourist info in Tansen identified that the serious climbing back up from the river finished here. Their recommendation was to make it here from Tansen as there were definite accommodation options. But now having started midway it is still only mid morning and the sun is warm and supportive. Soph again gives the nod post some chai and popcorn, whilst I eat aloo pakora, doughnuts hole that are the size of oranges and a couple of samosa. Cholesterol here must be a killer but in the lineup fairly low down at the moment.
Tree clearing obvious and in some parts absolute. Severe slopes making you wonder of the increased landslip potential, but these guys have obviously been molding the landscape for millennia via terracing so I guess they know what they are doing. Goat trails and sounds of people in the pockets of densely packed forest. One savior is you can't hear chainsaws nor can logging trucks access so I guess the remainder will take time and give the country time to consider necessity and associated issues.
Sari drying on the hillside slopes above road lined houses. Compact utility numbers with the animals in the bottom floor and the family upstairs.
Hit 2000kms, per Soph's cycle computer.
Continue to climb prior to dropping back down to Waling where glittering streamers/flags line the main street not just along the side but at one meter intervals for one km through town. Large banners indicating the event but unfortunately all in Nepalese. We find out it is the Waling festival 2067. Maybe they work on the Tibetan calendar, not sure will have to check. The festival has pumped up the town and there is a stream of people all heading down to the bazaar near the river. Unfortunately the consequences for us are that the hotels in town identify to Soph, as it her turn, that they are full. Soph looks tired, but otherwise fine so we take this at face value. We pass motorbike after motorbike all lined up along the lower main street. Versus the families and older generations walking into town or from the taxi stand. Women in saris with golden jewelry, including nose rings or piercings and plenty of bangles. Men in long shirts and waistcoats, also displaying their local hats. The local color is like a paisley tartan pink.
Following a couple of checks (we have come to rely on chemists or pharmacists or medicos as a definite source of English speaking support) we are directed a km through town to another small satellite suburb where we confirm accommodation at the Natural View Point Restaurant and Lodge. The room is clean, high and well lit. Bathroom communal but tiled and clean.
Fields of mustard, cauliflower, lentils and unknown green / pink flowering produce lining the river side flats on the far side of the river. Not what either of us had pictured up in the then perceived mountains. It is warm as post warm bucket showers we walk back into town to check out what is going on.
Show 30rup entry and with some similarities. Amusement rides including ferris wheel, small pirate ship, ghost train etc Ticket to get in has on the back, advertising for a visa assistance group. Kandyy.com 25% discount
Business stalls, school stalls, food stalls. IT section,English educational software. Organic coffee grown in Syangja. Sample cups made using sweetened water through a special strainer containing freshly ground coffee. Would love to buy a bag, but we have no access to kettles nor willingness to carry one. We meet a 100 % treacle man who is keen to export. Gives us a sample of his product. (B.G Groupe 9847199831) if anyone interested I have his card.
Motorbike cone of death style setup over in amusement section where a large crowd sitting on top is watching reving motorbikes spin around the angled sides. We notice outside one guy riding around on an old Suzuki with a toddler sitting in front, uncertain of whether part of the act. We pass many very attractive people with not only the brown red warm tan and dark hair but hazel instead of dark eyes. Many fine features. Have noticed before both here and in northern india the occasional blue eyed local, which is also in most cases striking if not slightly mesmerizing.
Stage entertainment all in Nepalese and at the moment a comedian so we decide to move on as dusk is not far away and Soph keen to get in some field shots.
Prior to making the river we wander the off highway main street, which is quiet. Well provisioned and laid out, we spot our first mountain bike with cable disc brakes in a store.
Walk through the fields on dusk following the main raised water irrigation ditch paths that rest on one edge. Easy to distinguish from the dividing patch walls by their well tramped identity. Wall cascading slowly through the earthen ditches slowly making for diverts into open patches. Water control achieved via stones across diverts for crops that do not require further water. Not sure how the water gets up to the small channels though initially as we are about a meter and a half above the current river water line. Similar to many rivers we have passed in Nepal, river stone spread indicating that the current flow is currently well below snow melt and monsoon capacity.
Back to the room for Thali, though really a Dhal Bhat. Soph eating again which is great.