Head out into the light, I think it is 10.30 by the time we get out of the room. We need to get on the bikes soon, we are getting room laziness. Porridge again at the City Heart restaurant, but add in some Chola Bhatura just for some variety. Bhatura are like a light fried batter that puffs up into a ball (air in the middle with the half doughy, half crispy outer) it is served with chana and today with a coriander and mint sauce that is deliciously refreshing.
From the restaurant we venture down to the taxi rank on Kosi Rd to try and locate a share taxi to Kasar Devi. The touts on Mall rd direct us down past a lineup of white Tata troop carriers towards one that already has bags in the bag racks on top, two people in the front, four people on the back seat and four people in the boot on the side seats. We pass it and ask at the next jeep, who point back to the one we just passed. When I identify it is already full the guy just smiles and says that they are waiting on two more passengers.
We take our positions in the boot, facing each other next to the rear door. Another guy jumps into the back seat, taking our number to thirteen excluding the driver. A couple of days ago we had been passed by a similar vehicle with two guys holding onto the roof rack and standing behind the rear door heading up to Kasar Devi, so I guess we got the good seats. Still in someways outside the car and facing forward could be friendlier to the stomach. It's not long before Soph grabs some chewing gum and starts chewing ferociously whilst occasionally grimacing. (thanks to a second cousin who has previously pointed out that chewing helps the balance with the middle ear that causes car or motion sickness)
Six kms up the hill at Snow View the first passenger jumps out, Soph asks if we want to get out, unfortunately I don't pick up on the, why don't we get out suggestion and I say nope let's head up to near Mohans. I miss the lightness precursor on the face, but soon pick up on alternate senses that we should jump sooner rather then latter.
Fortunately two of our boot passengers motion to the driver that they wish to bail, and we gladly join them. Soph glad not having been sick and I for not having been on the receiving end. 20 rup per seat.
Past the Buddhist ashram we curl towards the Kasar Jungle Resort as a source in Almora had identified that they had wifi, and we need it to update the blog. Past prayer flags the resort sits nestled just under the Shiva temple amidst moss covered trees, neat rock paths, Japanese garden inspired sculptures and a neat reception. The well dressed girl outside on the slate stones before the receptions eyes us over before we make for the front desk. A smartly uniformed waiter offers us two glasses of water covered individually by coasters. We decline the offer and ask the large and well eyeliner eyes peering at us if they have wifi. No, try Mohans.
At Mohans the power is out so espresso is not possible, still a guy at the till is using a desktop computer, what the... So post chai walk back down the hill towards Almora and grab stove top espresso from general store. They have a bunch of books on the top shelves but most are in German. One however catches my interest written by Engells and Marx it is a series of essays on India's independence push in 1853 - 57? Interesting over coffee reading, or at least the prologue.
Plenty of people up around Kasar Devi. It is either the day to visit a temple or because of the long weekend, but many stores are still open so not sure who gets time around here for a long weekend.
We drop by a dhaba where we asked for confirming directions a couple of nights back in the dark. Sitting in the sun eating channa and samosa is sensational, there is nothing better then good food served by a person with a good heart. Post chatting we drop off the ridge, down some stairs opposite the store through the forest to the chai store we dropped into a fe days ago after visiting the panchachuli weaving factory. He is shut but we spot him with a beanie on playing cards on the high side overlooking the store. We give him a couple of prints of the photos that Soph took of him the other day. He beams, when he looks through them which of course makes us happy with the effort.
Down the road a little further we decide to take a side trip up to a Hindi temple half way between the high and low road and overlooking the valley back towards Almora. It looks like a hermit lives in a cave below and the temple above is not that exciting, bar a statue of Laxshmi and a very big bell, but it is nice to hike up to and then onto an overlooking rock ledge that has a small bell and some fairy lights.
We take an alternate road back to town and then loose ourselves in the back alleys and stairs, poking around and saying hi and happy new year to many. It is great seeing different views, houses and people. There are some great places, hidden gems with beautiful stonework, carved wooden doors, doorways and windows, latticework, tin cornicing, colors etc. Strange things too like lots of people have cactuses up on their rooves, both small ones in pots and ones that have obviously been having a very good time for a long time. Small places but with satellite tv, the dish however attached to an old mustard oil drum and sitting on the roof. Every tint of the food color section of the supermarket at home is reflected in the paint on the newer concrete houses, pastels and fluros are not denied their time in the sun.
Monkeys in gardens picking out radishes and we thought blue tongues and echidnas were tough competition. Happily sitting and working their way through the various sprouts on offer when no one is within throwing distance. We consider some of the attitudes to animals in general are a little harsh but the proximity and lack of boundaries added to general variety in human nature is totally understandable. More cats around here to. Nearly all on the scrawny tabby side though and most look very much the scavengers. Again a few with nasty semi healed gashes. A couple of nights ago we saw a cow and a dog both eking out an existence scrounging through a rubbish pile in a cement collection cubicle on the Lallal. The cow fed up with the competition turned bullish and used it's horn to semi jag and flick the dog out of the way. Street cow with attitude.
From the Lallal we stop at the Basal Hotel to grab some beer nuts (15 rup per 100g) and our favorite grocer for some mandarins (40 rup per 1kg) then back down a side alley and some stairs to Mall, then the Hotel.
In most cities lavatories come in two official forms, one being street side urinals that are walk in, semi open, concrete bunker like constructions generally with two to three porcelain urinals. These similar to many street based facilities around the world tend to be treated poorly by users and neglected by authorities, leaving them in varying state. The other are attended bathrooms which cater also for ladies and are less frequent. Being maintained by the tipped attendant they are of a much, much better standard. Of course a shaded corner of a building or open garden patch also occasionally turn into relieving spots and it is not unexpected to pass a guy appreciating the view, view or not. Attended facilities excluded, the combination of close alleyways, numbers of users and proximity of passing traffic it is never difficult to scent.
In an attempt to offset our absence on New Year Eve we decide to revel in some Glory, choosing to sample their Chola Bhatura, St Shimla Mirch (stuffed capsicum in thick spinach creamed sauce), garlic and plain naan and butterscotch shakes. Not since Chandigarh have we experienced crisp air filled Bhatura which are great to scoop up your chola, similar to chana, made with chickpeas. Finished off with the bill and green fennel seeds and sugar scooped by a teaspoon onto your left palm and then delivered as smoothly to your mouth as you can manage.