Out through the morning calm but active streets of Butwal. Back onto the Siddartha Highway and start the climb almost immediately, but gradual. Through the gorge with angled sedimentary rock, waterfalls, suspension bridges and fern, jungle growth sides. Encounter patches of ripped up road sections from landslip season.
Licorice all sort packs used to "when i was a boy" have these squared layered lollies, not always licorice but sometimes caramel and cream amongst others. The thatched houses with cream and warm sunset caramel below for some reason remind me of them, but probably just because I am sugar deprived. Mud packed and smoothed edges rolling down into effective outdoor furniture as well. Garden parches looking extremely healthy especially as it is peak winter. Chickens, cows, goats and sheep roaming around.
River thinning but deepening. River flats occupied by chicken sheds down by the river. Soph photographs from the top of a steep path whilst I check out a nearby camp fire chicken with a suspicious amount of feathers around it. Poachers or packed lunch I am uncertain.
We take a stop following a bus pull in area at a Primary school perched on the road edge right on the edge of the escarpment. Mixed class all sitting at tables out in the sun on the escarpment side with their teacher. Practice our one to twenty in nepalese and the kids at better at the English then we are at the Nepalese, still we get it out so it is starting to stick. Following the school we climb a little further and swing into a new valley before dropping back to the river crossing to the right and then start climbing on the opposite side of the river. The road flatens and then gradually ascends up over the ridge towards Bartung.
Bartung appears to also be a recognised lunch bus stop where window service is in full swing. The local mini doughnuts are being served on bowls made of stitched leaves. Women sitting in the sun outside the small food places are stitching the green leaves as we eat. From Bartung fields to the east are visible nestled in the high mountains but complete flat.
As we turn left to climb up to Tansen we pass Manic buses hurtling down and leaning around corners. Roof riders bus surfing. Bus conductors stand on the bottom step and hang out slightly looking for fares one earlier on passing had been close enough to accidentally slap Soph on the back on the way past.
Up on the Tansen ridge, the ridge line is heavily forested in sections but also partially cleared. Large buildings lining the visible edge below the crest.
Bus station on the lower edge of town from where you snake up toward the main chowk and bazaar. Soph had to rouse on a couple of boys who grabbed Bob while we were going up hill. Obviously thought she needed a little more challenge. View back towards hills we have just worked our way through.
Tansen the administrative headquarters of Palpa is larger then my preconception of a small hill fort. The spread of the town is not apparent from below the ridge as only the ridge line hotels are evident.
Along Bank Rd which besides banks and financial institutions also houses much of the local bazaar. Huge Wooden gates near a white Octagonal pavilion, signed as an Autonomous area who by the look follow socialist ideals based upon the sickle and hammer insignia on the barricade's main gate. Later identify that these are the gates leading to the partially reconstructed Tamsen palace, being rebuilt using traditional methods following it being the centre of a particularly heated Maoist attack on it's then status as the government administrative headquarters in 2006.
Interogated by a group of school kids finishing up day at school. Several different uniforms but all short, direct and very vocal.
Settle into the Hotel Gauri Shankar guest house, half the price of the the White lake and though no view and bucket hot water.
Then roam up to the market square and octagonal pavillion, Bank Rd then circle round through back alleys to the bottom of Asan Tole then down and across to the three tiered Amar Narayan Mandir a Vishnu Temple where candles are being lit and numerous bells rung in the load balanced darkness.
Retire to the Nanglo West restaurant an up market Kathmandu chain. Can't resist the opportunity to indulge in a Tuborg deluxe. Plus they have local stovetop coffee. Not sure if they normally do espresso as the load setting has taken out the power from 5 to 7pm. Not too bad considering.
In the darkness we walk back to the hotel, no lights bar the occasional motorbike and small bonfire outside a house or business.