Tv next door has been on all night, Bollywood channel too by the sounds so overdramatized sounds followed by musical numbers. Nice. Still, least the sound appears to be on low. Out the window Waling appears to be cold and foggy. Riding power levels drop even before heading out the door.
On the road and follow the valley for a while before climbing and falling on the way to Syangia. Still following the Andhi Khola which feeds into the Kali Gandaki in the plains North East of Ridi.
Stop for photos and spotted by a little girl who post greetings asks for chocolate (which we don't have out) then rupees, then accepts a banana with smile, followed by a few words to some other better dressed kids who have also come to see what the fuss is about.
In Syangja notice pre school kids playing on the side of the highway with Roller wheels made out of plastic irrigation pipe and a small wire looped over the top. Effect being that they run along and the quasi wheel rolls and is controlled via the wire, basic but they seem to enjoy it quite a bit. In fact we see groups of kids playing in similar way as if they were riding on bikes. Another variation being an wooden wheel set and axle, that looks like a wooden hand dumbbell and a stick to control the dumbbells direction. Sometimes kids get off on the darndest things.
Sharp u bend in river around a hill sized knoll, in fact there is part of the ridge coming up, which has formed it's own mini hill prior to the massive wall of stone which caused such a dramatic change of course for the river below. Looking down noticing that some of the viewing spots are actually ledges when seen from different perspective. Flash backs to Uttrakhand make you a little wary.
Buddhist settlement as evidenced by numerous houses with prayer flags prior to passing under a entrance archway and the road finally descending near Bhumdi. Pairs of Himalayan eagles a nice change to massive vultures.
Downhill the road is all tarred but the base must have been laid poorly or some seriously heavy traffic has been through as it feels like mini moguls, brakes required to ease the panniers around the more exciting stuff.
Soph is now counting every km. When we left Syangja the report we received was roughly 15km up and then 15km down all the way to Pokhara. Soph therefore was monitoring her cycle computer remorsefully as we passed the fifteen and continued to climb. Further once we finally did descend there was a nasty couple of final pinches thrown into the mix just to rub the salt into the wound. To add the icing, haze has oblitterated any view of mountains and the lake is not in visual evidence. Outskirts of Pokhara therefore looking the same as many other regional cities, not giving the burst of adrenalin that a killer skyline can.
Riding into town we cycle through the Birauta Bazaar passing at speed Devi's falls prior to kicking left at Birauta Chowk to Lake side an island of urban tourism on steroids, bit like Byron but replace the surfers with trekkers and you have a first impression. There appears to be a 75/25 mix here of tourists to locals.
Hotel and guest house Touts out on the streets in force, in fact some even on motorbikes. Generally we wave to them as we cycle past smiling, but no advantage when they are on scooters. Many in good spirits but hard to drop. We pass loads of Restaurants and gift stores. Pizza and coffee. Steaks......stomach is starting to tighten up already.
Checkout several LP recommendations, most identify hot water regardless of load setting, which here is 5hrs and timing varies depending upon day of the week. Little Tibet guest house looked pretty cool as set back from the road and behind a gated garden, the calm was almost tangible, however charging 900rup per night versus 650 in LP and 500rup in other locations for everything bar the garden. Settle into Royal guest house as significant discount and top floor balcony room. Opposite the Royal palace on the lake side.
Hot showers and then succumb to temptation. Pizza and affogatto at Caffe Concerto. Backed up by more coffee and rum balls at AM/PM. Toto we're not in Kansas anymore....