Wake early to get back on the road with hopes of making Waling today if all goes right. Not looking too good as Soph feeling edgy and is a bit unsettled, but keen to hit the road.
The roll downhill from Tansen is cool but enjoyable as we breeze through the slightly breathless sections from the day before. Bananas that taste like bananas at Bartung. Before mild climbing away to the north west of Tansen following ridge lines. Soph still not coming good. Pass an army training group running up as we are riding around. Singing in nepalese as they pass with a few stragglers dragging behind. We reach Pansa where we consider finding an early hotel and bed for Soph but locals confirm accommodation options at the bottom of the hill a further 15kms or so all down.
The road down is great as we descend through semi gorge valleys off the Mahabharat range with increased vibrant terracing leading down to the stream far below. We pass through several road side villages prior to reaching Ramdi located on the bank of the Kali Gandaki and a holy site due to a combination of Cave temples and Saligrams(rocks with embedded sea fossils - from before the Asian and Indian plates collided forming the current Himalaya) being found here. Believed locally to be sacred as symbols of Vishnu.
Rolling into town Soph throws in the towel looking and feeling drained. Post a review of options we settle into a hotel just in front of the temple on the northern side of town. Hotel Shakur. Don't checkout the communal bathroom , just the room and decide it fine especially as Soph planning on just sleeping off her bug.
Whilst Soph slept I went exploring after a local round of Dhal Bhat at the hotel. Down initially to the temple below the hotel where quickly picked up by a couple of inhabitants. These guys first show me the temple followed quickly by a book supposedly indicating previous donors to the temple.
One a sixteen year old with good english, drills me on how to obtain a visa to Australia. Asks if I can send him back a relative visa and identifies that other people have done it. I try to explain the concept further to him, but some things get through and a lot doesn't. He has selective knowledge and factual information, much of which appears to have been gathered via cable, but has for example no concept on where Australia actually is and the costs of just getting to Australia, let alone those to live there. His parents being poor have no way of supporting him. I try to suggest developing his English further via working for the expanding tourism industry whilst saving money but this doesn't appear to appeal. I say goodbye and move on.
Old Indian assisted metal bridge, crossing the aqua blue and clear river below. Ropes crossing the river for a holy day in September but different name to Diwali. Massive fish on show in the local small dhaba styled restaurants all touting for the passing bus trade. Fish appears to take shape of either fish curry or fish fry. Did not try as still trying to workout where the local sewerage goes as all the hotels and restaurants sit very close to the edge of the high water line.
Pick up some more little minders as soon as I head to the temple on the southern side. Five primary aged kids who drop to three the further I go. Questioning varies from giggling at my attempted regurgitation of their nepalese, to if I could give a 100rup then 10rup then maybe a cream biscuit?
Cave temple with holy man living inside higher on the gorge face overlooking the river. Inside a collection of various relics representing from shiva to ganesh. It is dark but the kids point towards what appears to the back of the cave where it continues down behind a gate and the sound of rushing water echoes up. Outside the monkeys are having a fantastic time, the youngest boy about five has a home made slingshot and is taking the odd shot at the capering monkeys.
Open the cream biscuits and give each of the three two leaving one for myself. The kids mime that I should throw the packet. I try to explain that it would just end up in the holy river below and that that would be no good but I don't think they totally follow.
Back in the hotel early bed with Soph skipping the second dhal bhat offering. Sleep comes with the peaceful sound of rushing water in the background and the occasional noise of the restaurant as they gear up for dinner service.