Wake to morning puja being performed at Shiva Mandir a Shiva / Hanuman temple on the other side of the Rangit river. So close, but knocked about yesterday and a big uphill ride today, so no visit which is a bummer because it is said that to worship here will earn two life times of virtues. Homemade Aloo Paratha not bad, filling in a different sort of way when you are very conscious of requiring fuel. Pass through the boom gate at the checkpoint but it does not apply to us so we keep on moving. The main street of Legship or Legless as I mistakenly asked once or twice, zig zags up and away to the West.
It is humid and the sweat is already turned on in a desperate attempt to chill the legs down. The gradient at this stage is a little stiff with a couple of slipped road sections causing pinches which unfortunately coincide here with the bends. There is very little village spread and the road climbs through semi dense foliage climbing back up the ridge. A couple of sections swing you onto the edge of the opposing valley giving views up the river valley formed by the flows which meets at a confluence below the bridge late yesterday.
Every now and again hut styled bus shelters well used on the flats and during rain but most of these are empty today. One was very well made and beautifully decorated in a Buddhist temple style. Makes for a convenient off bike moment. Also has an actual public loo very unusual.
One advantage of the steepness is that it does not take long to gain enough ground to provide a top down view over Legship below and the Rangeet valley leading North and a small hydro dam wall and the valley we followed yesterday heading to the South back to Jorethang. Pass a young girl maybe five who is herding her goats off one hillock along the road and than onto another. Quite a responsibility but one that she has obviously encountered many times before as she flags her arm almost nonchalantly to keep the goats moving in the desired direction.
We meet bunch after bunch of small kids, who yell out and come and chase the bikes. Unfortunately going uphill it becomes very tempting for them to hang out which leads toward the crowding of the bike and than the temptation to jump onto the Bob or hold on. When you have had a stint cycling uphill, though you don't want to depress their spirits, it is hard to stay in the moment, especially if a bunch of weight all of a sudden comes on. Uphill you can't put on the pace to drop your little cheer squad so you just have to wait until the enthusiasm wears off and hope that they don't get too excited.
One group was a classic with an older boy with this homemade steering wheel and front wheel set made out of wire and some small irrigation piping. By turning the steering wheel and lightly leaning in a direction he had relative control and even raced me (if you could call it that) at one stage. His posse two little boys and one girl went from bike to bike as we rolled along. Unfortunately Soph received pushes from behind versus I, extra luggage. When I lightly chastised the unseen weight it was the older boy who interpreted to the others and it was normally the little girl that copped it, from the two boys of a similar age.
Pass over in the folds as we climb some flowing watercourses not quite waterfalls nor ravines but softly aggressive. In monsoon no doubt more energetic. Whether because these became convenient pauses on the climb or not, we seemed to pick up on the life that they held. One with a bright almost incandescent blue bird another with an extremely large black, purple and vivid blue butterfly. Tree orchids in bloom and hanging from the tree boughs. More surprising though as this area is well known for orchids (500 or so identified) are some of the plant varietals you would see at home like Frangipani and Jacaranda. Massive bamboo clusters and ferns. Sometimes though slow, climbing becomes arduous and repetitive and the head can stay focused upon the road surface loosing recognition of the surroundings. I find that this is generally when you are trying to look past an annoying rub or a painful squeak from the gear set.
Hit Middle Geyzing at about 11am which brings confidence that we are making progress. Greater string of houses fringing the road as we hit sharper switchback after switchback. Some people here excited others obviously just think we are nuts. Perceivable body language and demeanor whether laughing with you or at you. We also notice very distinct racial variances in small groups, for example two young men one clearly Bengali and the other strikingly Tibetan laughing together. Although seen many times and in many places in India, for some reason I find it different here.
Geyzing proper with sign announcing altitude of 1552mtrs, only a further 500mtrs altitude gain or so to go to Pelling. So hungry. Unfortunately the road forks at the sign and instead of turning towards Pelling we head up to the Bazaar, just as steep and nasty as the other side. Masses of people in town and lots of red, yellow and blue flags, Sikkim political (Labor) party, currently in power and today is Labor day. The road dog legs past a small Buddhist temple before becoming thinner especially with streams of people. Alongside the road on the right side is a wall with mini chortens on top of it leading up to a larger main chorten to the side of the main market complete with peepul tree and veg market to the left.
Feeling a little sugar deprived and yawning as if I hadn't slept at all last night, hold the bikes whilst Soph goes in search of not only a tempting food place but one where we can also place the bikes. With so many people around it makes space a premium. Just standing with the bikes under the tree is causing a minor traffic jam as people stop to look at the bikes and other people stop to look at what everyone else is looking at. We decide after several attempts that the "Restaurant cum bars" are just too difficult to park outside. Maybe a stand on bob would make things easier.
Down to a pure veg restaurant on the curve of the dog leg just past the rally which is getting into full swing with the arrival by the looks of a government official in large white land cruiser and flashing red light. Spiciest Samosa I think yet which is not great when you just need fill. Momos ok, mainly cabbage fill but the light soup served with them is refreshing. Not the hearty meal that we were looking for. Grab some Maaza (Mango juice) and some Good day biscuits which are both legendary cycling fuel. With some bananas thrown in I am sure that we could keep on cycling without lunch.
A little out of Geyzing the road returns to sweeping switchbacks. View back down the hill to a huge sports ground which is nice to see. The middle pitch area little more then dust but closer to the soccer nets at either ends green grass. A jeep cuts the corner across the field to the side of the pitch. Up further some kids that ask for chocolates. No chocolates but hand off the spicy samosa we "packed away" and a pack of Mums biscuits that we picked up out of Darjeeling which were dry and marginally tasty. The kids are stoked.
Large walled school on the side of the road, St Marys Convent High School. The parts of the school that we can see look quite impressive and well cared for. We were expecting to cycle for a further 16km but the road side signs reflect half this. Past large red and white Prayer flags which makes the climb quite cheery as the sky finally opens and large cold rain drops start falling. Taking shade under heavy foliage on the side of the road until it diminishes.
Past the Rabdentse Palace ruins and Pemayangtse Buddhist monastery as the road suddenly changes from climb to winding descent. On sweeping around a corner see Pelling following the ridge line along in front of us. Hotel Kabur our recommended hotel from both Sonams in Darjeeling and LP is nearly the first place on our right. We settle into the hotel at 2pm as the rain has started to pick up. It is nice to be able to eat and more importantly have hot showers.
Spend the afternoon in our room as the day continues to be gloomy. Must be frustrating for some as Pelling is basically a viewpoint to the Kangchendzonga range. For us it is the satisfaction of destination after a fulfilling days ride.
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