Sleep in. Last night there was some amazingly loud thunder and quite close by the delay in associated light show to noise. I can't remember the last time I heard it quite so loud. As a result and also due to the subsequent power failure sleep was quite interrupted. Get the bikes ready to go and cycling away at about 9.30am, temp before leaving already 30 degrees and quite humid, though a cross breeze lessens the effect.
Cycle back along the National highway which we traversed on the way to the safari yesterday. Not as bad as in the car as the pot holes and rougher road surface can be avoided by staying on the road's edge which remains okay.
Cross the Torsa river, bridge has a really rough section in the middle covered by large metal sheets but moved out of place by the heavy truck traffic. Avoid this by cycling on the sidewalk. River flow strong but only filling a fifth of the total river bed below us. Through fields until pass large Indian oil petrol dump and then enter a military zone first air force followed by army at Hasimara. Yesterday where we swung right entering the Wildlife reserve we instead continue straight.
Pull into a road side dharba a few kms past a Kalchini having already passed the road which leads toward Phuntsholing but not clearly marked as such. Maybe as this is the Bhutanese border town, not sure. Talk with a guy who works with an international pharmaceutical company which has a base in Kolkata. Home on leave from work for a year due to recurring illness.
The road surface becomes new tar as we roll through a low forest with sporadic large trees densely covered, almost draped in a variety of vines. Road rising now and again to cross bridges with clear water streams flowing along sandy soils. No apparent km markers but later spot one hidden beneath layers of vines.
Road becomes a bit sketchy just before we turn right towards Alipur Duar. Signs identify that we are cycling alongside the Buxa Tiger Reserve which our road atlas has marked further, really starting to question the reliability of these maps. Think of tigers as I was told in Bardia NP (Nepal) by one of the guides that it is only by not thinking of seeing the animal that you will.
Pass loads of people who call out as we cycle by. Nice but becomes a bit distracting especially as the varying speed traffic increases as we get closer to the city centre. Pass a large railway station before turning along a split main road which continues for a long time. Asked to pull over by a guy on a motorbike with two other guys on the back. Identifies he is a journalist, would be hard to outrun and I am feeling a little tired so agree. Writes for the Bengali Post, an english daily. However whilst answering initial questions another guy pulls out a video camera and microphone for Star tv? Asked a range of superficial questions but nicely, so okay. A crowd of people gather to spectate. An older guy also offers us a banana each, obviously we looked a little in need of further energy.
Following the interview continue out of town being questioned this time whilst rolling along by two separate motorcyclists. One who passed us a few days ago before Madarihat. Road again deteriorates before changing completely into a four lane concrete split highway. Due to ongoing work vehicles only using one side but the other side proves fine for cycling as the clouds remain a little dark but still no afternoon fall. Long trains roll in both directions to our right both passenger and freight.
Continue asking directions to Chakchoka but in the end we continue past without realising to Barobisha where the concrete road finishes abruptly. Might be an average ride tomorrow if all roadworks. Directed to the Santiban resort hotel on the edge of town that must have been impressive in it's day but has fallen into disrepair. Offered a bungalow sitting high above a wide deep pond or tank of water with a fine green film covering the top. A few ducks enjoying the experience as no doubt are thousands of mossies. Decline the bungalow and instead opt for a room in the house which has high ceilings, large rooms and some stain glass windows. Wood has been used throughout from the decorative heavy wooden doors, to the stairs balustrade and feature ceilings. Unfortunately the effect is lessened by missing panes, mottled colors on the walls from a range of contributors and contributants, broken windows and garbage in the landscaped surrounds.
We find out only after sitting in the restaurant for half an hour that they are unable to serve any food. The son, whose father from his broken english is out hunting, takes us into town to a restaurant of his recommendation.
After chai and the walk back, we settle in under the excellent mosquito net setup but are interrupted at 9pm by one of the staff asking us to settle the room bill. Unusual but given a hotel invoice filled in with our details we comply. Maybe then we will be able to enjoy a good night. Will see.
Cycle back along the National highway which we traversed on the way to the safari yesterday. Not as bad as in the car as the pot holes and rougher road surface can be avoided by staying on the road's edge which remains okay.
Cross the Torsa river, bridge has a really rough section in the middle covered by large metal sheets but moved out of place by the heavy truck traffic. Avoid this by cycling on the sidewalk. River flow strong but only filling a fifth of the total river bed below us. Through fields until pass large Indian oil petrol dump and then enter a military zone first air force followed by army at Hasimara. Yesterday where we swung right entering the Wildlife reserve we instead continue straight.
Pull into a road side dharba a few kms past a Kalchini having already passed the road which leads toward Phuntsholing but not clearly marked as such. Maybe as this is the Bhutanese border town, not sure. Talk with a guy who works with an international pharmaceutical company which has a base in Kolkata. Home on leave from work for a year due to recurring illness.
The road surface becomes new tar as we roll through a low forest with sporadic large trees densely covered, almost draped in a variety of vines. Road rising now and again to cross bridges with clear water streams flowing along sandy soils. No apparent km markers but later spot one hidden beneath layers of vines.
Road becomes a bit sketchy just before we turn right towards Alipur Duar. Signs identify that we are cycling alongside the Buxa Tiger Reserve which our road atlas has marked further, really starting to question the reliability of these maps. Think of tigers as I was told in Bardia NP (Nepal) by one of the guides that it is only by not thinking of seeing the animal that you will.
Pass loads of people who call out as we cycle by. Nice but becomes a bit distracting especially as the varying speed traffic increases as we get closer to the city centre. Pass a large railway station before turning along a split main road which continues for a long time. Asked to pull over by a guy on a motorbike with two other guys on the back. Identifies he is a journalist, would be hard to outrun and I am feeling a little tired so agree. Writes for the Bengali Post, an english daily. However whilst answering initial questions another guy pulls out a video camera and microphone for Star tv? Asked a range of superficial questions but nicely, so okay. A crowd of people gather to spectate. An older guy also offers us a banana each, obviously we looked a little in need of further energy.
Following the interview continue out of town being questioned this time whilst rolling along by two separate motorcyclists. One who passed us a few days ago before Madarihat. Road again deteriorates before changing completely into a four lane concrete split highway. Due to ongoing work vehicles only using one side but the other side proves fine for cycling as the clouds remain a little dark but still no afternoon fall. Long trains roll in both directions to our right both passenger and freight.
Continue asking directions to Chakchoka but in the end we continue past without realising to Barobisha where the concrete road finishes abruptly. Might be an average ride tomorrow if all roadworks. Directed to the Santiban resort hotel on the edge of town that must have been impressive in it's day but has fallen into disrepair. Offered a bungalow sitting high above a wide deep pond or tank of water with a fine green film covering the top. A few ducks enjoying the experience as no doubt are thousands of mossies. Decline the bungalow and instead opt for a room in the house which has high ceilings, large rooms and some stain glass windows. Wood has been used throughout from the decorative heavy wooden doors, to the stairs balustrade and feature ceilings. Unfortunately the effect is lessened by missing panes, mottled colors on the walls from a range of contributors and contributants, broken windows and garbage in the landscaped surrounds.
We find out only after sitting in the restaurant for half an hour that they are unable to serve any food. The son, whose father from his broken english is out hunting, takes us into town to a restaurant of his recommendation.
After chai and the walk back, we settle in under the excellent mosquito net setup but are interrupted at 9pm by one of the staff asking us to settle the room bill. Unusual but given a hotel invoice filled in with our details we comply. Maybe then we will be able to enjoy a good night. Will see.
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