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| From Nagaland, May 2011 |
The road is great and would be fine to cycle as we start to weave our way into the hills. Alongside the river which is deep and full of large smooth boulders, Teiso identifies that the river currently low and smooth is known by the locals, in english, the Mad river. Every year people die, caught in flash floods and when the river comes down, which rushes through the valley from the upper hills with little warning. Pass semi cleared hillside patches where pineapple plantations have been established. Roadside sign advertising the commercial success and seeking interest in the bee keeping industry. The road continues to be quite curvy and being unused to car travel we elect for a quick stop half way up for a quick breather. Stop not much further along for some diesel at a Bharat Petroleum petrol station, Petrol 62.70 and Diesel 37.34 cents per litre. Opposing valley hillsides predominantly forested which is apparently a feature of the south of Nagaland versus the north.
Take an alternate road to Khonoma deviating off NH39 to the right on a road that curves up through the forest on a very degraded trail. Jeeps suspension getting quite the workout as we work our way up and around the ridge to the South. Views now into a bowl of valley versus across the plains. Progress is slow as the jeep rocks across the rough and occasionally muddy trail. Pass through a ridge top village before swinging around to another. Over one small bridge, metal substructure but deck covered with tree limbs and mud. Every now and again men working into the ridge side wedging and digging free square brick sized slabs of rock. Once free rolling them down to growing piles beside the road. Seems a little crazy with small caves formed with loose overhanging rock and undermined root growth above. Surely landslip material.
Pull over at a view point with Naga styled roof. Out front is a large stone marker with an inscription attributed to the first federal president of Nagaland Khrisanisa Seyie; "Nagaland will never be a part of India their territory is not a part of the indian union. We shall uphold and defend this unique truth at all costs and always." The small village of Khonoma has long been connected with the independence movement and resistance to those seeking to reduce this. As a result the village has been attacked in the past by the british and the indian armies. The British in two major sieges 1847 and 1879 and the indian army in ?
Around the ridge below a large catholic church from the 1950s and up to a small road junction located on the saddle of the ridge line. Park the jeep below the Baptist church and climb stairs along the ridge line to a stone arch and Karu or gateway. It is carved with auspicious or prosperous markers including circles representing sun and breasts, dao (the naga machete - used for agriculture and historically tribal warfare and head hunting (head hunting was outlawed in 1935)) and quite significantly a Mithun head (- a wild cross between an ox and a buffalo). The villages historically being secured via the closing of the heavy Karu and with the village spread on a steep sided ridge line behind.
Beyond the gate we continue up to a small bench seat enclosed area with open space in the middle which has seen recent fires. Space is used to pass tribal stories from the older generation to the younger. Naga history and stories being vocal not written. Unlike other tribes there appears to be no one designated story teller rather a generational duty. Also have a look at a hollowed out Mithun horn used to call or warn people. Step over the seats and walk on past sow houses to a raised stone dahu circle. Used again as a community space it is constructed and dedicated to a village member who has financially supported feasts for seven festivals.
From the ridgepoint we followed some stairs down the eastern side past houses roofed in tin donated by the british after the war, some of the houses sides from old flattened tins and drums. Another dahu and an open square. Split up Soph catching up with a pair of sisters 90 and 80 years old respectfully whilst Teiso and I go and have a look at a Morung which again is a community space but this time constructed as a dormitory for young boys / men in the community in which they learn life skills, hunting, singing etc. In this morung for the Angami people the roof beams and walls are darkened with age old soot build up from numerous cooking fires. On the wall a flintlock rifle but of a massive size. So large that I thought it was fake before reassured that it was real. This thing is more canon then rifle but shaped the same bar it's size.
Invited back to another guys house at the end of the square for rice wine. Take a seat in his dirt floored but clean kitchen after having a look at the long bed where the family sleeps, made out of one large slab of tree at bench height and with a raised wooden edge as a pillow. The slab smooth with time but marked with the numerous chip marks to attain a flat surface. In the kitchen served with a bamboo mug and spoon, in the mug mushy rice at the bottom with clouded liquid on top. Not bad, but would prefer red wine.
After one and a half refills head out to catch up with Soph who is talking with the older ladies in their house. Full of character and thanks to Teiso's interpretation achieve a broader discussion than otherwise possible. They wish us safe travels and hope that we will one day return with the older of the two giving her blessings and passing on to us that good health is the most important aspect for a happy life. They also try to give Soph a bag of potatoes to take but finally accept that they would be very difficult for us to use.
Back in the jeep we backtrack for a while before taking the direct route onto Kohima. No longer a small village now spread across several ridge lines. Down to the main street where we jump out to go explore. Overpass with sign encouraging pride in the cities streets with reference that "cleanliness is next to godliness".
Come across a local market where again our conception of exotic is broadened. This time beyond the frogs are snails, silk worms, tea tree worms, eels and on the furtherest table (all of which overseen by women) the dog meat table. Apparently dog meat is quite good for active people. Wrestling in these parts is quite competitive and popular and according to Tesio a training wrestler in the lead up to a festival may have a diet of one dog per day. Tasty. One of the ladies bags up some local plums and gives them to us, refusing money and thanking us for coming.
Retire to the hotel after late lunch at the Rendezvous cafe. Fletch Lives on cable which is coincidental as it is the second movie which has Fletch (played by Chevy Chase) in the deep south of America in Evangelical country. One of the characters wishes to build an amusement park called Bible land? including a "Jump for Jesus Trampoline centre". Unfortunately power outage hits near the finish and remains in effect for the following three hours. Lite dinner in house before crashing in very comfortable beds in very clean rooms.
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