Head back up the main street and around to Buddha Park. We promised yesterday that we would show the lady at the Chai store the photo of both she and her daughter. Good opportunity to have a tea though the road up feels steeper with the bikes. Small snippets of snow crusted mountains between the clouds. A small group from Namchi just back down the valley and a pastor from the Pentecostal church are keen for photos.
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| From Sikkim, India. May 2011 |
The ridge road continues to climb then level but we pretty much have the road to ourselves as we follow huge conifers just below the North eastern ridge line. Pass a Sunrise viewing tower. No view today, unfortunately some of the past visitors to the viewing tower haven't been just keen on the views with the windows smashed down the bottom and charcoal graffiti up the three levels. Boredom, peer pressure, drunk or just small minded not sure but sad. No art to the graffiti just scribbles in poor english. At least I guess the writers have the excuse of second language versus some of the spell check literate b grade teen graffiti at home.
Pass a protected forest on the slope to the left. Signage communicates restriction of collection of wild fowl in the reserve following the bird flu outbreak of 2008? Will keep this in mind the next time I order chicken.
Through a small village and then pull over a little further up over a small rise. Wander through some small scrubby bushes to see the view on the other side of the ridge, hopefully down towards Namchi as there are a couple of huge statues down there also one of a seated Shiva (108ft high) and the other Guru Padmasambhava (135ft high). Nope, clouds. However small wild strawberries are growing all over the place, so not completely wasted.
Cycling up hill continues, starting to feel I might have read the topography slightly poorly. Then when all hope of a decent descent coming any time soon the road climbs around under a ridge and above a sheer drop, an eagle soars on a warm updraft and then the road descends to the edge of Damthang with a vengeance. Still trying to spot the descent road down to the Tista though, does not appear to be down the valley wall below. Past a secondary school and the turn to Chemchey and the road has a nasty climb up to Damthang Bazaar. Have to zig zag up sections to stay seated in the saddle. At the bazaar take the left road versus the right which heads to Namche.
Tendong Hill is to the local Lepchas what Noahs Ark is to those who believe in the old testament. The Lepchas believe that there was a huge flood which wiped out the whole world and that they survived by taking refugee on this hill. The sky is pretty dark and cloudy but I think we are okay to head down.
Descent is rapid, switchbacks are tight and the various valley views fly by. Tightly riding the brakes. The corners have sharp angled turns and fail on most to completely loose all speed as we swing around them. As we descend further the road cuts through a tea plantation, Temi, Sikkims only. It might be the only one but it is huge and appears neater. Through a small clean town where continual braking is required due to the huge speed bumps spread along the main street. Back to descending and tight bends again. A small van and then a jeep allow us to pass as they must be sick of us tailgating. Either that or they are just keen to watch us go sailing around the corners. Struggle to come to a complete halt at one corner and nearly go sailing off. Fortunate as when I do have a look down over the front wheel there is a sheer drop for 100 meters. Sudden increase in heart palpitations. Will need to look at the back brakes very, very soon.
The temperature has increased quite noticeably and the air feels once again tropical. Forest cover has changed to reflect this with more small ferny undergrowth. Note a large hydro project below just near the Tista bridge crossing. Have a close call with a petrol tanker who decides to drive on the alternate side of the road forcing me onto the non existent side. Must be my day. Road gradient has eased and we start a little climb and fall following the river. Passed by a learner driver or as maybe should be referred to as leaner driver as this is what the trainee driver is doing. Leaning across holding the wheel firmly in front of the older instructor. I don't know whether I feel safer and it is hard not to laugh as we call to each other "did you see that?"
Down to the bridge where the tar erodes and the dust and noise of construction in the air increases. Lots of work going on, by the looks placing retaining walls along the old road route that remains on this side of the river. The new bridge to our left passes a large series of water gates currently under a hive of construction. Definitely not Yangtze river size but larger then what we have seen locally so far. If water scarcity in northern India ever became an issue it is not hard to visualise deep water reservoir dams in the steep sided valleys here.
Cross the bridge and joined by a couple of excited kids one trys to jump onto bob but is told not to, so he proceeds to drag on Soph's panniers until she growls like a bear and brakes and he takes off. So would I, if I had been given that look. Crisscross up the bank on a diversion road caked with fine dust before continuing through a road junction following more trucks. Our road company appears more frantic, but it may just be a combination of the heat, dust and roadwork working on on our perception.
Teeth are semi gritted as are bike cranks as we roll into busy Singtam. Pass a crew of western Krishna devotees chanting on the road side. Thankfully not approached as our tolerance of company was as eroded as the road surface. Approached further up by some local girls wearing white robes who offer us cordial. Decline the nice but unrequited offer that was being made seemingly to all our fellow road users. Stop further up the main street at a road side restaurant just next to a Ram temple. Appears appealing with food options visible and even better, a raised verandah conveniently placed for us to stand the bikes against, within view of the seating. Very good lunch of momos and chowmein, cooked and served within what seemed like a few minutes of ordering.
Back on the bikes and cycle up to the main highway junction (NH31A) where we turn left and join the traffic heading towards Gangtok the capital and the North of the state. Ahhhh traffic. The BMC's rear wheel is again grinding it's disk. Takes a while to pull over as the traffic is heavy and there is no side area, just a deep concrete gutter. Finally some grass and so reset the rim and it spins. Just the car frustration now.
Come to a road tunnel, the traffic is bunched up at the other end,decide that it is a good option to wait at the entrance rather than going in and sucking in concentrated carbon monoxide. Unfortunately the cars behind us decide it is not that great a decision and pass us entering the tunnel and pushing us further back in the queue. Then one clown decides this is not enough and jumps on the horn even though it is obvious that it will not aid the situation at all. Initially I think ahhh indian drivers but then I consider all the times at home generally in cities or holiday traffic when some otherwise relatively normal character has a logic snap and decides that patience is not a virtue. As a result they jump into action which often causes more friction. Build enough friction and you get fire. Thankfully this is one thing that we have not witnessed in India or Nepal so far.
Soph goes to investigate and finds out it is a pair of trucks headed in opposite directions but timed the corner at same time and now have vehicles lined up behind them in both directions. Follow a motorbike through the small gap and put a bit of headway between us and the crowd. The road continues along the valley but turns into a bit of a diversion road as we climb up a series of tight switchbacks which wouldn't have hurt three hours ago.
Cross a bridge and climb up a nasty little bit of road to a junction at Ranipool. Only 11km to go to Gangtok and 3.30pm. What to do. Grab a cool drink and stake out the Gangtok share jeep rank currently empty. Could cycle up but keen to get the BMC issue sorted. Consider the other taxis down the main street but only alternate option is to hire two taxi vans which seems a little excessive.
Finally a jeep turns up that isn't already chokers. Plus it's roof racks are empty. Unload the bikes with the assistance of the little helpers we have gathered. Throw bob up onto the racks with the assistance of the driver and then up go the bikes. We jump into the back troop styled seats in the boot. Again with the assistance of our little helpers and then we are heading off. Can't see much as the soft back cover is down, just know that we are climbing up with heavy traffic and a few tight turns.
Arrive at the taxi stand and unload the gear. BMC's rear wheel again has become jammed. Stuff around with it until it is free spinning but then when trying to lock it in position the quick release snaps. Fortunately carrying a spare. Getting tired of short term solutions.
Call the guys recommended by Sonams. Rajesh owner comes and picks us up, or more correctly picks up our luggage and than we spend the next twenty minutes chasing the car through traffic and the hills. Man legs feel like rubber and it's like cycling with a square tyre. Make the apartment and man it looks like the Hilton after places that we have stayed in. Bath, huge bed and digital tv. Room furnishings. Clean walls. Have dinner in served by the extremely hospitable serviced apartment staff. Extremely tasty. Great finish to a so so day.
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