Make Middle Pelling before the road turns into slosh. Still sections of tar but pot holes have been filled with dirt and rocks which following the rain is now spread across broad sections of road. Focus on keeping mouth closed and eyes partially squinty to avoid the continual splatter of grit and mud. Pants, waterproof jackets, non covered body parts and bikes are given a fair soiling. Soph's pannier rack collect most of her back tire splatter but with bob everything is free to fly and my shorts (according to my compatriot) look like the descent has been a lot more fear inducing than what it was.
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| From Sikkim, India. May 2011 |
Locals further down thing it is hilarious as we grin through grit and wish them namaste. Steep descent but slow due to the slop and pot holes. Constant stream of Jeeps passing taking the predominantly local tourists to their next site of interest. We pass at one spot where a bunch of them have pulled to the side for photos across the valley, still clouded in. Not sure what we are missing. Through another village surrounded by agriculture before descending on a steeper stretch of better maintained tar through a damp forest with jutting rocks down to a small waterfall to our left. Obviously another point of scenic importance due to the line up of jeeps.
Passing the jeeps we again descended this time towards a river crossing into the small town of Rimbi. Back tire feels a little spongy on the descent and so pull over before crossing the bridge next to an old now unused suspension bridge similar to the bridge on entering Sikkim. Flip the bike after parking bob, the fine grit on everything making the tube change more painful. A quick visit was required to the river bank below to clean off the hand pump so that it was usable. On returning to the bikes note that a couple of motorcycles have pulled over up near the bikes and some cameras are clicking off multiple shots of us and bikes. The riders are nice, coming we later find out, from Kolkata.
Tube swapped bob is reconnected and we cycle across the new concrete bridge and down through Rimbi. Jeeps pulled over at the side near a river side spot as we continue on. Passed by the motorcyclists before the turn off to Kechopari Lake (Wishing Lake) a sacred site attracting both local Buddhist and Hindus. We decide to skip it partially due to the weather and because it is an up and back cycle with 600mtrs or so of elevation gain.
From the marked turn to the Lake we continue down and to the right. Brake and swerve suddenly coming around a corner as a pair of jeeps cutting the corner fail to honk. Around a couple more bends and then at the bottom of the road at a small side bridge again the line up of jeeps and some small road side lean toos selling snacks and drinks. Above and behind a large water fall filling a green gorge alcove with three distinct drops and pools. Note a few obese indian kids more noticeable due to the general absence of such an affliction here. Struggle not to stare as focus on the also large parents and smile to hide my surprise. Good to see them out and about, maybe more walking and less jeep action should be on the cards. Meet an Indian doctor who is very nice but asks whether bob is a battery for the bike. Assure him that pure pedal power and luggage only.
Past the waterfall little climb before descending again. This time very little accompanying traffic. Cross a beautiful raw river before pulling over as the back tire feels a little spongy again. My repaired tube appears to have a slow leak. To make matters less hospitable the grey sky has once again opened, with accompanying thunder and cold large drops are starting to fall. Decide to go with mothering the current tube as far as possible and pump it back up as full as possible. Talk at the same time with two young boys walking back to their village further above having washed in the river below.
Climb around and up before turning left at a road fork to Yoksom (meaning meeting place of the three superior ones) rather then Tashiding. The road is in great shape which is a saving grace as we pull over every two and a half kms to defer the deflating tire. Small waterfalls have sprung to life in several locations, a good side to the weather. Climb up and past a range of people all nice and encouraging. Finally into the start of Yoksum and past a large government school to our left with water pooled sports oval, some students still in process of returning following their lunch at home. Across some speed bumps and then a descent and climb into the edge of town proper and our referred accommodation, Hotel Yangrigang.
Post bike cleanoff and some late afternoon lunch we wander further into town and up towards Norbugang park the site in 1642 of the consecration of the first King of Sikkim or "Chogyal". (meaning "the king who rules with righteousness") Various hotel setups but the town does feel more grounded than Pelling. For the moment anyway. Up around a tight corner and past a fabulously painted Chorten before dropping past the calm Kathok lake ringed with prayer flags. Water from the lake was used for the first coronation ceremony. From the lake a winding rock path climbs past small wooden houses toward a slight knoll heavily wooded with pines and filled with rippling prayer flags. Through a gate and up several stairs the park has a beautiful serenity and age. Wander across and circumambulate the small closed Buddhist temple spinning the numerous prayer wheels then gazing in at the flickering butter candles inside. To the side a small temple housing a huge prayer wheel which takes serious body weight to gain enough momentum to spin.
Beyond an old incense burner a massive aged and gnarled tree provides shelter over the tiered step like coronation throne, complete with descriptive slab rocks confirming the original persons present and their seating location. A footprint from one of the three Lamas is also believed to be evident on the top of a large rock to the side. Some imagination is required, but given the age erosion may have also claimed it's toll. The standout however is the massive Cryptomeria pine which is full of moss and ferns. It feels like a knowledge tree or tree of the people and together with the filmy prayer flags really makes the place.
Beyond the park climb up and over the rear wall and into a small soccer field prior to rejoining a rock path which leads through some fields into a cluster of wooden houses. Originally intending only to gain a closer view of a waterfall dropping behind to the valley floor, we also note the now crystal clear view through the valley and above the range to the side of the Kanchenjunga massif. Continue through the houses and strike up a conversation with a young guy who identifies himself as a farmer. His extended family live in the houses including his maternal grandmother who is 99 years old. He apologizes profusely for his English though far better than our Nepali. A very humble and warm character.
Back down the path and I feel a slight catch on my ankle. On closer inspection find that I have picked up a few friends either near the lake earlier or along the path to the village. One leech has already drunk it's fill and has fallen off but his comrades are only just beginning. In recognition of our location and the possibility that this may be some far distant relative reincarnated I relocate my freeloaders onto the grass whilst Soph not a fan of leeches starts twitching nervously.
Back at the hotel the power is dropping in and out as we use candles to eat. Quite romantic and the food is more impressive in the semi dark. (the flavors are great) Body refreshing warm showers prior to bed after a mixed day.
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