Wake early 5.30am, India has only two time zones and no day light saving. Music from the Hindi temple wafting on the air from the three story Hindi temple near the Mahananda bridge. Catch up on some typing then hear the distinct sound of heavy rainfall. It has definitely settled in. Maybe we will be here another day, no fun cycling all day in heavy rain. Settle back into the pillow. Decide at 8am that the rain has exhausted itself for the morning and so we might as well jump on the bikes and get cycling to Jalpaiguri.
Gear out the front and on the bikes at about 9am. Cycle up the lane way and out past the hibernating dogs under the parked jeeps out the front. Up onto the side of the Hill Cart Rd where we have to continue down the wrong side of the road before swinging across the traffic to a turning lane. Relatively smooth and we are soon cycling out along the road to Jalpaiguri. Pass several cyclists of varying ages, have one young pair of guys do the speed past and then showoff routine in front. We try not to encourage them. Come to a road junction where they are heading to the left and we are going straight which currently has a red. Traffic lights.. When I look across to the side road, I notice that the guys have stacked their bike in the middle of the road. Oops. Had to happen some time.
Pass by a prison cart full of small children, almost like something out of Dick Van Dyke's Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. Driver not quite so creepy though, smaller nose. Some nursery pre schools provide sponsored converted carts to transport the kids. The kids generally in uniforms, sit on two bench seats in the small caged enclosure on the back of the cart. Smiling out as we go past. Such an experience would do some of the kids at home good. Sometimes I used to think of going back to school as prison, but this is a different story. Some of the kids in this part of the world are little handfuls so maybe it has street cred.
The road is one level below beautiful. Flat, smooth but unfortunately no breakdown lane. Only problem is it is raining, not just raining someone has left the sprinkler system on high. Pull into a Road side Dharba called Kartra. Quite a few trucks out the front, good sign, plus good signage. Some drivers relaxing on hammock beds out front and others inside enjoying Thali (like Dal Bhat a rice and curry meal set). We choose instead to go for Aloo Paratha, Channa and pickles. Well maintained fish tank and bird cage out the front add a bit of a different touch. Food is good, sweet channa with raisins. Quite an interesting crew in the place too, from singlets to slacks and collared shirts all drivers and their truck crews.
Rain goes through flat and heavy patches as we cycle on. Fields have water sitting in them and the foliage around is lush. Pass eucalypts, figs, jacarandas and a flowering tree that looks like a jacaranda but has a crimson flower instead of purple and long flat snaky seed pods versus flat and round. Meet a Pakistani teacher five km out of Jalpaiguri, nice guy, but don't hang around too long as it is still raining.
Enter Jalpaiguri's outskirts and the rain only intensifies and a couple of bursts of thunder seemingly to announce our entrance. Direction is hard to assess as the rain is falling hard enough that you tend to keep eyes pretty much straight ahead. Town feels spread out and low density urbanization so it is difficult to spot the centre of town. Get a couple of directions along the way from people offering shop verandahs to get out of the rain, however we are both so thoroughly soaked that there would be little advantage gained. Find as a result Hotel Ratnadeep which is above our general standard but when you feel like a drowned rat it is easy to offset by amending your comfort cap. Every one else in the lobby is dressed neatly and more importantly dry, they treat us very hospitably and with interest.
Decide to hit the streets as the rain has stopped after a quick afternoon nana nap and as there is still a little daylight left. However it's a bit like the Truman show but instead of hidden cameras everyone just watches with interest or open curiosity, even the dogs. Well at least one of the dogs seemed to be staring intently. Soph is the flavour of the day, generally the ladies look away if you look back, but the guys, some of them, just stare on anyway. Not surprised by it, nor even disturbed too much by it, just harder to get even the slightest assimilation. We pass one shop and we overhear the words long bike in amongst a conversation in Hindi, our entrance appears not to have been unnoticed. To make matters worse no one down here is connecting with our Nepali, so it is harder to break the ice. Cross the Tista before inspecting a small botanical garden. Slightly kitsch in parts but a nice walk and the topiary elephants are quite good.
Town has a slightly decayed feeling, in some parts, about it. Quite visibly as a result of age and environment, green mossy patches are growing on some of the larger buildings and the paint on many buildings appears to struggle with the weather. Non painted metal surfaces corroding in the damp air. Gardens grow though and so the decay is offset by luxurious jungle growth in and around the buildings. A small calf acts as unofficial lawnmower outside one walled house enclosure keeping the lawn a suprisingly consistent length and fertilising as it goes. Meet a grandfatherly man on the walk back in long white pants and white long indian shirt. We ask whether the monsoon has come early and he says that it could rain now like today, but everyday. Every day? Every day. Consider changing plans.
Dinner in our rooms after our floor staff have already come into our room to turn on our fan, remove the bed cover and drop off a mosquito zapper. Not sure if it is in the interest of good service or discreet observation. Food is fantastic. Drying our clothes in the bathroom for tomorrow, so that potentially we can at least start the day dry.
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