Man, I am perspiring just packing, under a fan, what will it be like on the streets. Admittedly slept in a little this morning, we both were feeling quite trashed after yesterday. Hotel staff help us get the bikes and gear out the side doors, but still a small crowd set up opposite at a store. Clarify the way to Hajo and then we are on our way following a backroad straight across to the Nalbari - Guwahati road (Hajo Road).
Getting more used to conferring with people on bikes and in cars whilst cycling. Pull into a small village to stock up on water. Soph draws a small crowd. I have to tap a few guys on the shoulders to get back to the bike. Continue past small houses mixture of concrete with ripple iron roofs to mud and thatch places. Most have water near them in large quantities in one way or another.
Large pools of water, varying from brown green, to orange brown to verdant green thanks to surface growth. Some covered with water lilies, predominantly purple colored flowers. Many men wearing like a sarong tied at their waist and quite commonly singlet top. Sometimes tucked up to show off some pretty healthy tummies. The road feels great as it is relatively smooth, no large trucks or buses and best of all it is tree lined. The highway is good and will be even better when finished but is an elevated road with clear lines and so no trees at present.
Stop after a bridge crossing, the water flowing strongly beneath. Current noticeable from the floating green foliage caught in the drag. A small village we pass through has a small river boat under construction made from quite solid slabs of timber. Has some pretty sizable gaps in it's flat bottom so uncertain how they are ever going to float the thing.
Continue on to another small junction town where we stop for chai and samosa. Crowd this time stay with the bikes, until we are about to leave and then everyone is peering down into the dhaba and we pose with various people for snaps.
Had to pass at least one fatherly looking man today who called out to ask if he could take a photo, but by the time he had got the mobile in position I would be surprised if he saw anything. Difficult as would love to stop especially for the older guys as they are generally good value, but we have already stopped and answered so many questions we need to cover some ground.
In Hajo before we realise it. Again no town signage. We are both dripping so stop for some cold drinks, again drawing numbers and causing as a result a bit of a traffic jam. Confirm the way to the local temples, aware that there is something in town only from the coloration of the name on our Indian road atlas. Deviate from the main road and pass a carved and in some parts tiled gem of an old building sitting by itself amongst residential small houses. A little further along a large gate with Krishna featuring and some elephants, tigers etc. A little different from the predominantly Shiva, Ganesh and Hanuman temples we have mainly come across to the west.
Circle around below a fenced area before climbing up to the entrance gate and noticing that the fenced area is a large tank or dam of clean green water and the temple sits on top of a small red soiled hillock standing out of the banana palms and houses below. Soph stays with the bikes as I walk up, shoes removed on the sun warmed stone stairs. By the time I get to the top I am dripping even more. On the bikes you might be expending energy but when moving achieve a cooling breeze, when stopped however it is just humid hot. At the top of the stairs I am invited by an older white garbed priest into the inside of the temple Haigriv Madhav which is so dark I have to wait for a couple of minutes until my eyes adjust.
The main chamber beneath the Ashoka styled dome above is relatively bare but in a smaller cave like side room the main statue resides explained to me by one man as Bishnu (same same Krishna) but I have read via LP Madhav which is an avatar of Krishna. Very confusing and in the dark not clearly memorable. A man outside thought the temple or aspects of it were 5000 years old, I assumed he was getting his english converted numbers wrong but LP states that the key images housed are alleged to be about 6000 years old.
Meet a range of happy people within the temple vicinity before taking the stairs back down to my shoes and the bikes. One of the guys with warm brown eyes and beard that I met on the way in is standing with Soph. She identifies that we have been invited to his house to share chai. Take up the offer as he is really keen and getting good vibes. Walk the bikes across past the water and out on the far side of the temple complex. We discuss via a younger friend who has solid english a range of topics but more in regard to the temple which appears to serve via the Brahmin priests a type of puja and vegetarian meal most evenings.
His house when we arrive is similar to many we have passed on the road. Bamboo woven gate and fence surrounding an inner enclosure with flowering trees before the house a concrete construction. Introduced to the family, mother, wife and daughters. Shown with pride photos of our host in various body bending and strength postures reflecting his yoga prowess. This guy is truly inspiring. More so as you feel the grounding of his heart and soul in his general presence. Given Puri Phita (a bit mike a sweet made from coconut, ghee and sugar) made in the temple nightly by the Brahmin priests and two types of Lahru (the white my fav over the highly peppered) with the chai. Presented with an Assamese Gamusa (scarf) that was made by his wife.
With a few directions we cycle off along the road again. Similar to this morning in countryside but now with dark clouds along the southern skyline. Pulled over by some guys in a care not much further along, having spoken with them whilst rolling along. Presented with another Assamese Gamusa. Left this one on as we continued towards Guwahati. More orange red soil singular hillocks standing up from the plain and healthy brown water rivers flowing past.
The dark storm clouds much closer and grey have all around the wind picked up quite quickly from breeze to a little below Cat 3. Strong enough that as we cycled on the side of the road through open patches of cross breeze we needed to lean into the wind to keep the bikes straight. Considered stopping in a small village under cover but there were so many potential flying debris that we pushed on. First sight of the Brahmaputra from here looks like an inland lake, massive and brown. Roll up a little hill rise upon which a large battle memorial sculpture is placed. Decide to allow the storm to either pass or break and so stop in the relatively clear space. Have to park the bikes out the front of the gated area as chided out by the groundskeeper.
Memorial recognises the Saraighat uprising by the Assamese against the Mughals in 1671. Meet a guy from upper Assam who identifies that the river is quite similar to this further up also. He looks a heavy set Bodo or Nepali in face structure. The storm seems to have abated so we roll on.
From the memorial the road drops back down through a small village at the road junction and then swings up past the Bengali Sapper encampment to the bridge junction. Armed solidiers with battle fatigues and helmets are patrolling the junction. Further up a policeman uniformed in a sandy brown outfit with beret and bearing both gun and long stick directs that we can't cycle across the bridge. Rather he directs that we have to cross to the right side pedestrian walk way and walk the bikes across. At least he stops the heavily flowing traffic so we can get across to the walkway. No photos.
While grumbling in my mind about seeming power freaks with sticks, mustaches and berets we start the stroll across. Work in various stages to our side to build another bridge crossing with dredging underway on some bridge supports and closer to the shore much higher formwork and concreting. Very little river traffic that we can presently see, especially for a river this large. Guys on the deck level below walking along the single rail track checking bolts with massive spanners.
On the far side finally back onto the bikes and rejoin the heavy flow of traffic. Traffic in town flows quite well and we suddenly hit large roundabouts and junction traffic lights which visibly count down to a change in light. The usual dodge of bus traffic but less bikes and rickshaws and no donkeys etc just the odd pedestrian walking on the side. Increased street signage but still could be improved. We work our way to Assam Trunk road, then SB Shah road and finally after a couple of wrong turns and redirects to ? road.
First and second recommended hotels full as the rain held off but the mossies didn't. Third place okay but for what we paid 700 rup at Nalpuri now paying 1150 rup and the guy at the front desk feels officious. I think it must just be me after the traffic encounters and a big day, as this is the capital and city prices one would expect to increase. Still for us a refuge from the day and the mossies and somewhere to secure the bikes.
Getting more used to conferring with people on bikes and in cars whilst cycling. Pull into a small village to stock up on water. Soph draws a small crowd. I have to tap a few guys on the shoulders to get back to the bike. Continue past small houses mixture of concrete with ripple iron roofs to mud and thatch places. Most have water near them in large quantities in one way or another.
Large pools of water, varying from brown green, to orange brown to verdant green thanks to surface growth. Some covered with water lilies, predominantly purple colored flowers. Many men wearing like a sarong tied at their waist and quite commonly singlet top. Sometimes tucked up to show off some pretty healthy tummies. The road feels great as it is relatively smooth, no large trucks or buses and best of all it is tree lined. The highway is good and will be even better when finished but is an elevated road with clear lines and so no trees at present.
Stop after a bridge crossing, the water flowing strongly beneath. Current noticeable from the floating green foliage caught in the drag. A small village we pass through has a small river boat under construction made from quite solid slabs of timber. Has some pretty sizable gaps in it's flat bottom so uncertain how they are ever going to float the thing.
Continue on to another small junction town where we stop for chai and samosa. Crowd this time stay with the bikes, until we are about to leave and then everyone is peering down into the dhaba and we pose with various people for snaps.
Had to pass at least one fatherly looking man today who called out to ask if he could take a photo, but by the time he had got the mobile in position I would be surprised if he saw anything. Difficult as would love to stop especially for the older guys as they are generally good value, but we have already stopped and answered so many questions we need to cover some ground.
In Hajo before we realise it. Again no town signage. We are both dripping so stop for some cold drinks, again drawing numbers and causing as a result a bit of a traffic jam. Confirm the way to the local temples, aware that there is something in town only from the coloration of the name on our Indian road atlas. Deviate from the main road and pass a carved and in some parts tiled gem of an old building sitting by itself amongst residential small houses. A little further along a large gate with Krishna featuring and some elephants, tigers etc. A little different from the predominantly Shiva, Ganesh and Hanuman temples we have mainly come across to the west.
Circle around below a fenced area before climbing up to the entrance gate and noticing that the fenced area is a large tank or dam of clean green water and the temple sits on top of a small red soiled hillock standing out of the banana palms and houses below. Soph stays with the bikes as I walk up, shoes removed on the sun warmed stone stairs. By the time I get to the top I am dripping even more. On the bikes you might be expending energy but when moving achieve a cooling breeze, when stopped however it is just humid hot. At the top of the stairs I am invited by an older white garbed priest into the inside of the temple Haigriv Madhav which is so dark I have to wait for a couple of minutes until my eyes adjust.
The main chamber beneath the Ashoka styled dome above is relatively bare but in a smaller cave like side room the main statue resides explained to me by one man as Bishnu (same same Krishna) but I have read via LP Madhav which is an avatar of Krishna. Very confusing and in the dark not clearly memorable. A man outside thought the temple or aspects of it were 5000 years old, I assumed he was getting his english converted numbers wrong but LP states that the key images housed are alleged to be about 6000 years old.
Meet a range of happy people within the temple vicinity before taking the stairs back down to my shoes and the bikes. One of the guys with warm brown eyes and beard that I met on the way in is standing with Soph. She identifies that we have been invited to his house to share chai. Take up the offer as he is really keen and getting good vibes. Walk the bikes across past the water and out on the far side of the temple complex. We discuss via a younger friend who has solid english a range of topics but more in regard to the temple which appears to serve via the Brahmin priests a type of puja and vegetarian meal most evenings.
His house when we arrive is similar to many we have passed on the road. Bamboo woven gate and fence surrounding an inner enclosure with flowering trees before the house a concrete construction. Introduced to the family, mother, wife and daughters. Shown with pride photos of our host in various body bending and strength postures reflecting his yoga prowess. This guy is truly inspiring. More so as you feel the grounding of his heart and soul in his general presence. Given Puri Phita (a bit mike a sweet made from coconut, ghee and sugar) made in the temple nightly by the Brahmin priests and two types of Lahru (the white my fav over the highly peppered) with the chai. Presented with an Assamese Gamusa (scarf) that was made by his wife.
With a few directions we cycle off along the road again. Similar to this morning in countryside but now with dark clouds along the southern skyline. Pulled over by some guys in a care not much further along, having spoken with them whilst rolling along. Presented with another Assamese Gamusa. Left this one on as we continued towards Guwahati. More orange red soil singular hillocks standing up from the plain and healthy brown water rivers flowing past.
The dark storm clouds much closer and grey have all around the wind picked up quite quickly from breeze to a little below Cat 3. Strong enough that as we cycled on the side of the road through open patches of cross breeze we needed to lean into the wind to keep the bikes straight. Considered stopping in a small village under cover but there were so many potential flying debris that we pushed on. First sight of the Brahmaputra from here looks like an inland lake, massive and brown. Roll up a little hill rise upon which a large battle memorial sculpture is placed. Decide to allow the storm to either pass or break and so stop in the relatively clear space. Have to park the bikes out the front of the gated area as chided out by the groundskeeper.
Memorial recognises the Saraighat uprising by the Assamese against the Mughals in 1671. Meet a guy from upper Assam who identifies that the river is quite similar to this further up also. He looks a heavy set Bodo or Nepali in face structure. The storm seems to have abated so we roll on.
From the memorial the road drops back down through a small village at the road junction and then swings up past the Bengali Sapper encampment to the bridge junction. Armed solidiers with battle fatigues and helmets are patrolling the junction. Further up a policeman uniformed in a sandy brown outfit with beret and bearing both gun and long stick directs that we can't cycle across the bridge. Rather he directs that we have to cross to the right side pedestrian walk way and walk the bikes across. At least he stops the heavily flowing traffic so we can get across to the walkway. No photos.
While grumbling in my mind about seeming power freaks with sticks, mustaches and berets we start the stroll across. Work in various stages to our side to build another bridge crossing with dredging underway on some bridge supports and closer to the shore much higher formwork and concreting. Very little river traffic that we can presently see, especially for a river this large. Guys on the deck level below walking along the single rail track checking bolts with massive spanners.
On the far side finally back onto the bikes and rejoin the heavy flow of traffic. Traffic in town flows quite well and we suddenly hit large roundabouts and junction traffic lights which visibly count down to a change in light. The usual dodge of bus traffic but less bikes and rickshaws and no donkeys etc just the odd pedestrian walking on the side. Increased street signage but still could be improved. We work our way to Assam Trunk road, then SB Shah road and finally after a couple of wrong turns and redirects to ? road.
First and second recommended hotels full as the rain held off but the mossies didn't. Third place okay but for what we paid 700 rup at Nalpuri now paying 1150 rup and the guy at the front desk feels officious. I think it must just be me after the traffic encounters and a big day, as this is the capital and city prices one would expect to increase. Still for us a refuge from the day and the mossies and somewhere to secure the bikes.
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| Siliguri (West Bengal) to Guwahati (Assam), India May 2011 |
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